AndyMech

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

Popeye: the skylight has already been glued down - prematurely I suppose.  I'll keep my eye open for a good solution.  I suppose I could unglue it, but generally I hate to do that -it causes more work and mars the wood and I would be concerned of the planks also coming unglued.  I could also remove the planking from below the skylight as the whole unit is not glued to the coamings,  that will allow for access to the underside.  We'll see.
 
Moving forward:  
 
There are 2 vent boxes in the plans - without coamings, but with little feet bolted to the deck.  It looks like, from photos of the actual ship that something has changed and there are coamings now, but I went with the plans and used the feet instead.
 

 

 

 
These are just placed at the moment, not glued as there are other pieces of deck furniture to add.  I think I'll create all the rest of the furniture before permanently placing on deck.
 
Andy.

Popeye: the skylight has already been glued down - prematurely I suppose.  I'll keep my eye open for a good solution.  I suppose I could unglue it, but generally I hate to do that -it causes more work and mars the wood and I would be concerned of the planks also coming unglued.  I could also remove the planking from below the skylight as the whole unit is not glued to the coamings,  that will allow for access to the underside.  We'll see.
 
Moving forward:  
 
There are 2 vent boxes in the plans - without coamings, but with little feet bolted to the deck.  It looks like, from photos of the actual ship that something has changed and there are coamings now, but I went with the plans and used the feet instead.
 

 

 

 
These are just placed at the moment, not glued as there are other pieces of deck furniture to add.  I think I'll create all the rest of the furniture before permanently placing on deck.
 
Andy.

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

Next up is the 2nd largest hatch - the main salon companion way and trunk.  This took me a little over 2 weeks to complete, it's the first to have a planked top and some very small and thin molding.
 
The main issue I had, after creating the initial box, was to get the edges to overhang by 1/32".  I wanted this to be as precise and consistent as possible.  The box itself is created with 3/64" thick walls, which one the forward and aft edges, meant there was only 1/64" of available gluing space for the 1/32" frame.  
 
Here was my solution:
 

 
I used clips to sandwich a 1/32" thick scrap piece between the edge of the frame and another piece to mark the edge of the piece to glue.  I did this on all 4 sides, then glued in the larger of the edge pieces first:
 

 
With those in place, I managed to glue the thinner fore/aft edging:
 

 
Now, I made each plank to fit the newly formed frame, labeled them and stained them before gluing.
 

 
The rest is more-or-less straightforward:  plank the top, create the sliding hatch and small access hatch with portlights:
 

 

 

 

 
Here it is on the ship:
 

 
Also, I did add 1/32" x 1"64" molding below the top by sanding down a 1/16" x "1/32 to 1/64" thick and the slicing it in half.  The resulting pieces are super fragile and difficult to manipulate, but I was able to glue them in well.
  I hope to repeat these techniques for the final, largest hatch, at least for the framing and planking.  The hatches on top will be different, but no new skills required, I hope.
 
 
Andy.

Popeye, I like the idea of using a tinted plastic or film, I'll keep my eye open for something like that. It should be easy enough to apply on top, likely won't even need to glue it. Good idea, thanks.
 
Andy

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

After a few weeks of work, the main salon trunk is finished.  I will leave the bell to later as I need some bronze paint for the currently-silver bell and it shouldn't be too difficult to add it later.
 
The progression of photos shows the construction order, I used clear plastic for the hatch windows even though you can clearly see the planks underneath it.  For some reason, that doesn't bother me overly at the moment.
 
Andy.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Finally, I thought I'd post a larger picture of the current full profile length of my Baltimore:
 

 
Andy.

Next up is the 2nd largest hatch - the main salon companion way and trunk.  This took me a little over 2 weeks to complete, it's the first to have a planked top and some very small and thin molding.
 
The main issue I had, after creating the initial box, was to get the edges to overhang by 1/32".  I wanted this to be as precise and consistent as possible.  The box itself is created with 3/64" thick walls, which one the forward and aft edges, meant there was only 1/64" of available gluing space for the 1/32" frame.  
 
Here was my solution:
 

 
I used clips to sandwich a 1/32" thick scrap piece between the edge of the frame and another piece to mark the edge of the piece to glue.  I did this on all 4 sides, then glued in the larger of the edge pieces first:
 

 
With those in place, I managed to glue the thinner fore/aft edging:
 

 
Now, I made each plank to fit the newly formed frame, labeled them and stained them before gluing.
 

 
The rest is more-or-less straightforward:  plank the top, create the sliding hatch and small access hatch with portlights:
 

 

 

 

 
Here it is on the ship:
 

 
Also, I did add 1/32" x 1"64" molding below the top by sanding down a 1/16" x "1/32 to 1/64" thick and the slicing it in half.  The resulting pieces are super fragile and difficult to manipulate, but I was able to glue them in well.
  I hope to repeat these techniques for the final, largest hatch, at least for the framing and planking.  The hatches on top will be different, but no new skills required, I hope.
 
 
Andy.

Next up in the hatch parade is the crew access/galley hatch.  This is a little more intricate, but not too bad.  Took me two weeks to complete.
 
First, I framed up the walls, added the stained roof pieces and some inner walls.  My sliding hatch doesn't move, so everything is glued down tight.
 

 

 

 

 
Next, hatches were added to the top - there are 3 here: a long, dual portlight hatch on the left side, a single smaller one on the right and frame for the galley stack also on the right.  A life ring is placed on the sliding flat portion.  I mixed my own orange color from the ship's yellow and red (too little paint to go out and purchase), and I also left the galley stack chimney the base metal color - seems to match the ship better than the bronze the instructions called for.
 

 

 

 
Finally, a shot of the ship as it stands right now, before I continue onto the next largest hatch:
 

 
Andy
 
 
 

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

After a few weeks of work, the main salon trunk is finished.  I will leave the bell to later as I need some bronze paint for the currently-silver bell and it shouldn't be too difficult to add it later.
 
The progression of photos shows the construction order, I used clear plastic for the hatch windows even though you can clearly see the planks underneath it.  For some reason, that doesn't bother me overly at the moment.
 
Andy.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

After a few weeks of work, the main salon trunk is finished.  I will leave the bell to later as I need some bronze paint for the currently-silver bell and it shouldn't be too difficult to add it later.
 
The progression of photos shows the construction order, I used clear plastic for the hatch windows even though you can clearly see the planks underneath it.  For some reason, that doesn't bother me overly at the moment.
 
Andy.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hola a Todos:
 
After more than a week here is a new update.  First I finished the two lockers that laid close to the Galley access:
 

 
Also I install the eyebolts and skylights that run along the deck:
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 

Hi everybody:
 
After finishing the lockers I decided to follow with the lifeboat:
 
The most tricky part was to sand the interior because the kit comes with the "bread and butter"laser-cut lifts.  To accomplish this I glued only two of the lifts and before gluing another pair I carved and sanded the inner surface of the pairs. Nonetheless it is quite difficult to achieve a "perfect" soft interior.

 
Here you can see some pictures of the finished boat:

 
The cradles:
 

 
 
And the boat in it´s final position:
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 
 
 
 

Finally, I thought I'd post a larger picture of the current full profile length of my Baltimore:
 

 
Andy.

Next up is the 2nd largest hatch - the main salon companion way and trunk.  This took me a little over 2 weeks to complete, it's the first to have a planked top and some very small and thin molding.
 
The main issue I had, after creating the initial box, was to get the edges to overhang by 1/32".  I wanted this to be as precise and consistent as possible.  The box itself is created with 3/64" thick walls, which one the forward and aft edges, meant there was only 1/64" of available gluing space for the 1/32" frame.  
 
Here was my solution:
 

 
I used clips to sandwich a 1/32" thick scrap piece between the edge of the frame and another piece to mark the edge of the piece to glue.  I did this on all 4 sides, then glued in the larger of the edge pieces first:
 

 
With those in place, I managed to glue the thinner fore/aft edging:
 

 
Now, I made each plank to fit the newly formed frame, labeled them and stained them before gluing.
 

 
The rest is more-or-less straightforward:  plank the top, create the sliding hatch and small access hatch with portlights:
 

 

 

 

 
Here it is on the ship:
 

 
Also, I did add 1/32" x 1"64" molding below the top by sanding down a 1/16" x "1/32 to 1/64" thick and the slicing it in half.  The resulting pieces are super fragile and difficult to manipulate, but I was able to glue them in well.
  I hope to repeat these techniques for the final, largest hatch, at least for the framing and planking.  The hatches on top will be different, but no new skills required, I hope.
 
 
Andy.

Finally, I thought I'd post a larger picture of the current full profile length of my Baltimore:
 

 
Andy.

Finally, I thought I'd post a larger picture of the current full profile length of my Baltimore:
 

 
Andy.

Next up is the 2nd largest hatch - the main salon companion way and trunk.  This took me a little over 2 weeks to complete, it's the first to have a planked top and some very small and thin molding.
 
The main issue I had, after creating the initial box, was to get the edges to overhang by 1/32".  I wanted this to be as precise and consistent as possible.  The box itself is created with 3/64" thick walls, which one the forward and aft edges, meant there was only 1/64" of available gluing space for the 1/32" frame.  
 
Here was my solution:
 

 
I used clips to sandwich a 1/32" thick scrap piece between the edge of the frame and another piece to mark the edge of the piece to glue.  I did this on all 4 sides, then glued in the larger of the edge pieces first:
 

 
With those in place, I managed to glue the thinner fore/aft edging:
 

 
Now, I made each plank to fit the newly formed frame, labeled them and stained them before gluing.
 

 
The rest is more-or-less straightforward:  plank the top, create the sliding hatch and small access hatch with portlights:
 

 

 

 

 
Here it is on the ship:
 

 
Also, I did add 1/32" x 1"64" molding below the top by sanding down a 1/16" x "1/32 to 1/64" thick and the slicing it in half.  The resulting pieces are super fragile and difficult to manipulate, but I was able to glue them in well.
  I hope to repeat these techniques for the final, largest hatch, at least for the framing and planking.  The hatches on top will be different, but no new skills required, I hope.
 
 
Andy.