AndyMech

Hola:
 
Now I finished the three lockers that surround the main salon trunk: the Life Jacket locker, the Rope Locker and the Diesel Pump Parts Box.
 
Here some pictures:
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 
 

Finally, I thought I'd post a larger picture of the current full profile length of my Baltimore:
 

 
Andy.

Finally, I thought I'd post a larger picture of the current full profile length of my Baltimore:
 

 
Andy.

Next up is the 2nd largest hatch - the main salon companion way and trunk.  This took me a little over 2 weeks to complete, it's the first to have a planked top and some very small and thin molding.
 
The main issue I had, after creating the initial box, was to get the edges to overhang by 1/32".  I wanted this to be as precise and consistent as possible.  The box itself is created with 3/64" thick walls, which one the forward and aft edges, meant there was only 1/64" of available gluing space for the 1/32" frame.  
 
Here was my solution:
 

 
I used clips to sandwich a 1/32" thick scrap piece between the edge of the frame and another piece to mark the edge of the piece to glue.  I did this on all 4 sides, then glued in the larger of the edge pieces first:
 

 
With those in place, I managed to glue the thinner fore/aft edging:
 

 
Now, I made each plank to fit the newly formed frame, labeled them and stained them before gluing.
 

 
The rest is more-or-less straightforward:  plank the top, create the sliding hatch and small access hatch with portlights:
 

 

 

 

 
Here it is on the ship:
 

 
Also, I did add 1/32" x 1"64" molding below the top by sanding down a 1/16" x "1/32 to 1/64" thick and the slicing it in half.  The resulting pieces are super fragile and difficult to manipulate, but I was able to glue them in well.
  I hope to repeat these techniques for the final, largest hatch, at least for the framing and planking.  The hatches on top will be different, but no new skills required, I hope.
 
 
Andy.

Finally, I thought I'd post a larger picture of the current full profile length of my Baltimore:
 

 
Andy.

Hi Friends:
Now another trunk finished, in this case the main salon trunk:
 

 
Saludos!!
 
 

Thanks Captain - I had the Modeler 12 log on my list of ones to go through, but hadn't yet.  Now I will - incredible work.
 
Rainbow - as this is my first wooden kit I don't have anything to compare it with from the point of view of materials.  My kit is also of somewhat strange provenance; I got it off ebay from someone selling things out of his father's estate so am not sure how old it is or if all the pieces will end up being present (I know there is supposed to be more than the one size of tan rigging line that came in the box).  I can tell you that the instructions are a bit skimpy - the parts list is in Italian, the English instructions are poorly translated, so I am really depending on the logs of others, particularly Tuffarts and AndyMech, both of whom have done amazing stuff.
 
Below are today's experiments with coloring barrel hoops - I was having a hard time imagining that I could paint the hoops and not go outside the lines.  So I used drawing pencils instead (hardness F & #2 for these) and I think there is some promise in this method - just got to keep from rubbing it off before I get them in place.  I may try a matt poly on one.

Next up in the hatch parade is the crew access/galley hatch.  This is a little more intricate, but not too bad.  Took me two weeks to complete.
 
First, I framed up the walls, added the stained roof pieces and some inner walls.  My sliding hatch doesn't move, so everything is glued down tight.
 

 

 

 

 
Next, hatches were added to the top - there are 3 here: a long, dual portlight hatch on the left side, a single smaller one on the right and frame for the galley stack also on the right.  A life ring is placed on the sliding flat portion.  I mixed my own orange color from the ship's yellow and red (too little paint to go out and purchase), and I also left the galley stack chimney the base metal color - seems to match the ship better than the bronze the instructions called for.
 

 

 

 
Finally, a shot of the ship as it stands right now, before I continue onto the next largest hatch:
 

 
Andy
 
 
 

Next up in the hatch parade is the crew access/galley hatch.  This is a little more intricate, but not too bad.  Took me two weeks to complete.
 
First, I framed up the walls, added the stained roof pieces and some inner walls.  My sliding hatch doesn't move, so everything is glued down tight.
 

 

 

 

 
Next, hatches were added to the top - there are 3 here: a long, dual portlight hatch on the left side, a single smaller one on the right and frame for the galley stack also on the right.  A life ring is placed on the sliding flat portion.  I mixed my own orange color from the ship's yellow and red (too little paint to go out and purchase), and I also left the galley stack chimney the base metal color - seems to match the ship better than the bronze the instructions called for.
 

 

 

 
Finally, a shot of the ship as it stands right now, before I continue onto the next largest hatch:
 

 
Andy
 
 
 

Next up in the hatch parade is the crew access/galley hatch.  This is a little more intricate, but not too bad.  Took me two weeks to complete.
 
First, I framed up the walls, added the stained roof pieces and some inner walls.  My sliding hatch doesn't move, so everything is glued down tight.
 

 

 

 

 
Next, hatches were added to the top - there are 3 here: a long, dual portlight hatch on the left side, a single smaller one on the right and frame for the galley stack also on the right.  A life ring is placed on the sliding flat portion.  I mixed my own orange color from the ship's yellow and red (too little paint to go out and purchase), and I also left the galley stack chimney the base metal color - seems to match the ship better than the bronze the instructions called for.
 

 

 

 
Finally, a shot of the ship as it stands right now, before I continue onto the next largest hatch:
 

 
Andy
 
 
 

Next up in the hatch parade is the crew access/galley hatch.  This is a little more intricate, but not too bad.  Took me two weeks to complete.
 
First, I framed up the walls, added the stained roof pieces and some inner walls.  My sliding hatch doesn't move, so everything is glued down tight.
 

 

 

 

 
Next, hatches were added to the top - there are 3 here: a long, dual portlight hatch on the left side, a single smaller one on the right and frame for the galley stack also on the right.  A life ring is placed on the sliding flat portion.  I mixed my own orange color from the ship's yellow and red (too little paint to go out and purchase), and I also left the galley stack chimney the base metal color - seems to match the ship better than the bronze the instructions called for.
 

 

 

 
Finally, a shot of the ship as it stands right now, before I continue onto the next largest hatch:
 

 
Andy
 
 
 

Next up in the hatch parade is the crew access/galley hatch.  This is a little more intricate, but not too bad.  Took me two weeks to complete.
 
First, I framed up the walls, added the stained roof pieces and some inner walls.  My sliding hatch doesn't move, so everything is glued down tight.
 

 

 

 

 
Next, hatches were added to the top - there are 3 here: a long, dual portlight hatch on the left side, a single smaller one on the right and frame for the galley stack also on the right.  A life ring is placed on the sliding flat portion.  I mixed my own orange color from the ship's yellow and red (too little paint to go out and purchase), and I also left the galley stack chimney the base metal color - seems to match the ship better than the bronze the instructions called for.
 

 

 

 
Finally, a shot of the ship as it stands right now, before I continue onto the next largest hatch:
 

 
Andy
 
 
 

Hi,
 
My paint brushes are nothing special - I bought a series of 4 at Michaels (local craft shop).  They sort them into different quality, so I got the highest available.  I also wanted to get flat "shader" brushes instead of rounder, pointed ones so I could do more precise work.  The 4 are all of different sizes, the smallest is the red one at the top : 4/0 I think.  The label has rubbed off.
  Here's a photo -- I typically use the smallest head so far, but will use the larger on the bigger surfaces.     I hope this is the info you are looking for.  If not, I'd be happy to answer any other questions...   Andy.

Hola Andy:
 
Answering your question: the solution was simple I only sand the middle section to accomplish the desire curvature.  probably is better if you see a picture:
 

 
Saludos, Karl

Ok, this weekend I finished up the Engine Access hatch.  
 
First, I created the 4 sides, lettering them to know which to glue to which:
 

 

 
I added a thin 1/32" roof, and stained and glued it to the frame, after painting the frame.
 

 
The plans call for 2 small 1/64" steel rods to be hung by some very very small mounts on the side of the hatch.  I used 26 gauge electrical wire from work, and made the wood mounts with lots of careful filing and sanding.
 

 
Finally, the top hatches - one on each side, and each has a portlight installed at the top.  I used 1/32" inch wood for this, and sanded the extensions down to 1/64 as best I could.  The top hatch covers were also sanded down to 1/64" thickness.
 

 

 

 
Andy.

Ok, this weekend I finished up the Engine Access hatch.  
 
First, I created the 4 sides, lettering them to know which to glue to which:
 

 

 
I added a thin 1/32" roof, and stained and glued it to the frame, after painting the frame.
 

 
The plans call for 2 small 1/64" steel rods to be hung by some very very small mounts on the side of the hatch.  I used 26 gauge electrical wire from work, and made the wood mounts with lots of careful filing and sanding.
 

 
Finally, the top hatches - one on each side, and each has a portlight installed at the top.  I used 1/32" inch wood for this, and sanded the extensions down to 1/64 as best I could.  The top hatch covers were also sanded down to 1/64" thickness.
 

 

 

 
Andy.

It's pretty amazing you got the color match so precise, especially on the wood colored text.  Thanks for sharing that tip.
 
Andy.

Ok, this weekend I finished up the Engine Access hatch.  
 
First, I created the 4 sides, lettering them to know which to glue to which:
 

 

 
I added a thin 1/32" roof, and stained and glued it to the frame, after painting the frame.
 

 
The plans call for 2 small 1/64" steel rods to be hung by some very very small mounts on the side of the hatch.  I used 26 gauge electrical wire from work, and made the wood mounts with lots of careful filing and sanding.
 

 
Finally, the top hatches - one on each side, and each has a portlight installed at the top.  I used 1/32" inch wood for this, and sanded the extensions down to 1/64 as best I could.  The top hatch covers were also sanded down to 1/64" thickness.
 

 

 

 
Andy.

Ok, this weekend I finished up the Engine Access hatch.  
 
First, I created the 4 sides, lettering them to know which to glue to which:
 

 

 
I added a thin 1/32" roof, and stained and glued it to the frame, after painting the frame.
 

 
The plans call for 2 small 1/64" steel rods to be hung by some very very small mounts on the side of the hatch.  I used 26 gauge electrical wire from work, and made the wood mounts with lots of careful filing and sanding.
 

 
Finally, the top hatches - one on each side, and each has a portlight installed at the top.  I used 1/32" inch wood for this, and sanded the extensions down to 1/64 as best I could.  The top hatch covers were also sanded down to 1/64" thickness.
 

 

 

 
Andy.

Ok, this weekend I finished up the Engine Access hatch.  
 
First, I created the 4 sides, lettering them to know which to glue to which:
 

 

 
I added a thin 1/32" roof, and stained and glued it to the frame, after painting the frame.
 

 
The plans call for 2 small 1/64" steel rods to be hung by some very very small mounts on the side of the hatch.  I used 26 gauge electrical wire from work, and made the wood mounts with lots of careful filing and sanding.
 

 
Finally, the top hatches - one on each side, and each has a portlight installed at the top.  I used 1/32" inch wood for this, and sanded the extensions down to 1/64 as best I could.  The top hatch covers were also sanded down to 1/64" thickness.
 

 

 

 
Andy.

The lettering looks pretty good - did you print it on a transparent adhesive?  I'm curious to know more details on how you got it from the computer to the ship.
 
andy.

Hola:
 
Continuing with some details:
 
Modeling, painting and installing the Fairlead:
 

 
Later I made some tests to paint the Baltimore´s Emblem that are laid on the transom, but it's really difficult to work in detail on this scale. Therefore I got the idea to do it on the computer: copying the shield and reducing it to the appropriate scale. And after several tries I obtained an acceptable result. Here you can see the hand made try and the printed one attached on the wood form
 

 
Because Guaymas is a little city, it is quite impossible to obtain the appropriate dry transfer letters to make the ship´s names, so, following the same procedure I used my computer to do them:
 


 
Saludos
 
 
 

Thanks for all the comments.  I made a little progress over the weekend, working on the Engineer Access hatch.  I seem to be ordering the hatches in order from most simple to more complex.  I will post photos when the portlights are complete.
 
Thanks to all for following my build - I wish I had more time to work faster.
 
Andy.

Hola:
 
Before gluing the main rail I made the cleat platform and see how it fits. Here is important to mention that the main rail at the stern must have enough space to accommodate the transom pieces including the fashion pieces.
 

 
Next step was preparing the bulwark planks.  For this the five planks needed are clamped together and painted all at once painting them, one side black and the other cream white. Doing this facilitates gluing them to the stanchions:
 

 
Here you can see the bulwark done:
 

 
Finally I do the the transom including the fashion pieces. For these I used 1/64" strips instead the 1/32 that mention the instructions because I think they fit better:
 

 
 
Saludos, Karl
 
 
 
 
 

Today, I added the foc'sl hatch. This is the 2nd smallest hatch, close to the bow.  Like the lazarette hatch, it could be made to open, but I chose not to do that.
 
The window on top is made from some small brass strips and a piece of clear plastic - not the perfect window, but looks all right I think.  The kit comes with thinner plastic, but I'll save that for some larger windows later.
 

 

 
Andy.