Kenneth Powell
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Everything posted by Kenneth Powell
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I added the rudder. These are actually model furniture hinges, but they look cool. Railings are next. Comments welcome - Kenneth
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This is amazing - Kenneth
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I agree with Gregory; it's what suits the builder. While we want to be as accurate as possible, our hobbies are for fun and accomplishment and no one will measure it with calipers. Just my 2 cents, and maybe not worth it - Kenneth 😋
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If I'm understanding the question, the cap rail of the gundeck and quarterdeck overhangs the same on the inboard side as the outboard side. Refer to the sheet of plans with the planking bets and use the section drawings. They are very modest overhangs. At least that's the way I did it. Hope this helps - Kenneth
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Hello Everyone - I put my cannons together and placed them on the deck for a photo opp. They are the perfect size, just big enough to peek over the rail. There was very little char present on the laser cut sheets so they were easy to clean up. The yellow cedar was easy to work with and looks great so I think I'll leave them natural. The cap squares were cut from black construction paper. Comments Welcome - Kenneth
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Fantastic job! And a tutorial to boot. - Kenneth
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I've been working on the rails using the same juniper. And the bow sprit. Made from basswood. I made it a little longer to accommodate a jib. Modifications to come. Thanks all and comments welcome - Kenneth.
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My parts arrived. This is just right for what I'm doing. The Syren site has a spot for 3/16 scale cannons and I wanted four, 6 lb guns. So I chose a set of barrels and a matching set of carriages and I'm in business. These cleats are just what I wanted also. I have a little work to do and tomorrow is Mother's day so it may be a little while before I get to put everything together. Happy Mother's Day to you and yours - Kenneth And as always - Comments Welcome
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Reviewing the photos and the model I discovered the keel at the stern is not symmetrical at all and too thick. I must have overlooked it all those many years ago when I first started. I've been sanding and sanding to correct it and I think I've got it now. Also, the shrimp-boat copper paint on the bottom just won't do. (I got a 35mm film canister full to bring home) Does anyone have any suggestions for this time period. Comments welcome - Kenneth
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Ed - Yes, that's my point. That's the way I did it, but no one has to follow along. Please see page 1 of my Rattlesnake build log to see how it turned out. I did use a very small amount of filler and sanded, but not to the point of being really slick. I kind of like the wooden ship character. Of course, it's your model and please finish it to your own liking. Hobbies allow us to express ourselves. One person's humble opinion - Kenneth
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Ed - Excellent milestone. Your planking really looks good. Sanding too smooth with remove all the beauty marks from a planked wooden ship. Just an opinion. - Kenneth
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I got this model back in the 1980s. The owner wanted to use the hull to build a local Biloxi schooner, but lost interest. I've kept it ever since. You can tell by the photos that the plans have been folded up for quite a while. I intend to build a coastal pirate/smuggler vessel that could have operated in the shallows and bayous of the Louisiana marshes. She's 65 ft on deck, has a wide hull, shallow draft, and a centerboard; exactly what a flamboyant Frenchman needed for his operation. The timeline is between 1800 and 1820, so I'll have to adjust some items to make it more era specific. The biggest change is that she'll be a topsail sloop. Let's really change things up. I used some of the parts salvaged form the kit. I lined the bulwarks with thin planks of basswood to smoothen sanding defects. The deck planking is juniper with resorcinol glue - not advisable - then finished with spar varnish. That is the centerboard crank. I don't know if it's era appropriate. Other metal parts from the kit. I will use the boat and the bird. Mast, boom, gaff, and spars cut and ready to shape. But I will work on hull details first. Comments Welcome - Kenneth
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Thank You everyone for the responses and likes. Also, thanks for all the help and hints and advice and photos and scans and comments over the years. - Kenneth
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That's right, gang. She's done. The rope coils and the jig I used: Other photos: I bought this kit on January 23, 2009 and got started that night. It wasn't long until I realized that I needed help so I did an internet search for Model Ship Rattlesnake and found this group. It's been quite a ride ever since. The log bounced back after the great crash of 2013 because I hadn't posted much and I had all my photos. Hobbies are great and they wait for us to catch up. And, as always, the wood is patient. For my next trick I'm going to bash a Hudson River sloop into a costal pirate. Should be fun. Comments welcome - Kenneth
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Meant Flags, Steps not Flags Steps.
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Milestone!! All the rigging is complete. The fore topgallant yard: Overview shots: My gosh - It actually looks like a ship model. I have a short punch-list to do and it will be finished. Ship's Name Rope Coils Flags Steps Bumpkins. Comments welcome - Kenneth
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True Gregory. Because it's scratch built it's an opportunity to be creative and still be historically accurate. - Kenneth
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Yup, Gregory, all their money is gone. I finished the Fore Topsail yard: I tied the above block upside down at first. The rigging was already through the right side and I was in a dilemma. Removing everything from the yard and other attachments was not an option. So I carefully cut the bloc off the stay as close to the stay as possible and flipped it over, then retied in it the correct direction. If you look close enough you can see the remnants of the original attachment. DID NOT want to cut the stay. On the photo below you can see the tiny bumps on the gallows bits representing cleats. I can't believe I got the rigging line around it. On to the final yard, the fore topgallant yard. Comments welcome - Kenneth
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John - Your model really looks great. Love the color. - Kenneth
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Thanks, Woodshipguy for looking in and commenting. Today is wet and dreary, can't work outside so I'll finish the fore topsail yard - I hope. - Kenneth
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Ed - The same thing happened to me. I used a finishing nail just long enough to reach and hold the piece in place. I predrilled a very small hole and ground off the head and used liberal amounts of glue. After driving and counter sinking the nail, I clamped and rubber banded everything together and checked alignment. It was a very nervous time. Those deck beams on the bulkheads are also fragile. I think I popped 3 of them. - Kenneth
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Thanks, Rollingreen for looking in and commenting. Your build is really looking good. It really is something how the same materials and instructions can yield different results from different people. This works for model ship kits and everything in life - each with our own perspective. Thanks - Kenneth
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Thanks Ed - Yes, it seems to be wrapping up. Two more spars and a short punch list to go. No stain on the masts, just testors dullcote lacquer on the sanded wood. Here's a shot of the rigging at deck level, it shows the newly added kevel: I also put the boat back in its home. Comments welcome - Kenneth
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Hello Everyone - I've decided to change things up a bit and build one spar at a time, install, then photograph. So, here is the foresail yard: There's rigging tied to the rigging! On to the fore topsail yard. Comments welcome - Kenneth
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