CPDDET

Thanks Toni, I'll check it out.

Looks like it could be an attachment for a Tormek

I have1/4, 1/8 and 1/16 chisels along with the dogleg ones from Stumac. I think I will stick with those for now and hopefully improve with practice. Although a micro plane is definitely in my future. Christmas isn't far off and maybe Santa will be good to me.

I considered something similar but thought it would limit me to 45 degree bevels. Seem like I rarely get a 90 or 45 when building my models. But vertais does make a very nice 45 bevel attachment for their plane. Tempting!

While sandpaper and files will work, I think they are perhaps the most difficult in attaining a crisp bevel that allows the greatest amount of glue area. Thank you all for some great ideas. I think this is just another task that takes time and practice to develop with sharp hand tools.

Wondering how others are cutting chamfers, I'm having a bit of on issue getting smooth flat chamfers at different angles. While I do have a burns saw, it doesn't have a tilt arbor and besides, most the time the pieces I need to chamfer are much to small for that anyway. I suppose some type of jig used with a hand chisel might work but just cant seem to find an easy, reliable method. Anyone have a method their using that works well for them? Dave

Perhaps you could supply more information? Such as manufacturer, availability and so on.

Over the years of shaving with a straight razor I have become pretty adapt to honing and stopping a razor. There was, of course, a learning curve but over that time I have acquired the stones and skill to do it. I imagine, with time, a similar skill could be attained with these chisles. Thank you for your thoughts and insights.

I recently purchased this set of 4 micro chisels from Stumac. I'm very pleased with them and the dogleg shape allows great control. Cutting widths include 2mm, 2.4mm, 2.75mm and 3.25mm But I need to find a honing guide that will work with them. Anyone have ideas?

Looking good!

Welcome Eric! Your joining a great group.

Welcome, glad to have you aboard!

Also check Modelmotorcars and MicroMart for miniture hardware.

Model Shipways Sailing Pram or Lobster Smack?

I would rough the old surface, prime and repaint. But I'm no expert in the field.

Badger Airbrush makes their own line of paints. They come airbrush ready and I have used them with great success. I'm sure Kurt could expound on this product.

Excellent metal work. Your model is coming along nicely!

Hope your situation is soon rectified. And welcome to the grouo!

Finished installing all the frames. After cutting the slots for frames 4, 4a, 5 and 5a deeper so the frames would meet the rabbet, I glued these into place. I also glued in 5b and a thin filler piece so they filled the space up to the rabbet. At the aft end I glued in frames Ga, Gb and H This finishes the frame install. Since the transom piece will be a bit delicate, I decided to wait on installing this until after finishing the topline and fairing the frames. So moving on to the topline trimming......

Looking good!

Welcome!

Nice work on your pictured model and welcome to the group. Friendly and helpful people here.

Welcome back to the shipyard! Many of us have taken time away from our models only to return with renewed passion.

Welcome aboard! I've never seen any derogatory comments here, so don't be hesitant about posting. Everyone here is most helpful and supportive.

Moving right along today. I noticed that the deadwood wouldn’t align correctly with the red vertical lines on the build board for the frames. Seems like either I didn’t glue the keel absolutely level or the bottom edge of the deadwood wasn’t flat. When I laid it in place it was obviously off. In order to correct this I added a thin shim then sanded it so the shim became a wedge, thickest at the aft end and tapering to the thinnest edge where it meets the keelson. This corrected the problem I was a bit confused about the location of the beard line but looking at figure 34 of the instructions quickly cleared that up. I’m lucky enough to have a Byrnes saw and, setting the blade shallow enough; I was able to cut a 90 degree bevel along the aft side and bottom edge of the deadwood, much like a router. Sanding the deadwood was much like cutting the rabbet (as explained by Toni in the instructions). The further the distance from the edge of the deadwood to the bearding line the mote gentle the angle. The closer the bearding line to the edge of the deadwood, the steeper the angle. I’m sure you can also see my mistakes in these images; mainly, my mistake of extending the rabbet to the aft end of the deadwood and the sternpost. As I move along Ill see how much of an issue this causes. I then glued the deadwood, sternpost and “L-shaped” piece onto the build board after rounding the top a bit. I would like to know the proper term for the “L-Shaped” piece. Camping coming up this weekend so not sure how much I will get done in the coming days.