CPDDET

Email to Ben at Ropes of Scale: Morning Ben, After reading your comments I assume that your cotton line is to be used for running rigging and the polyester for standing rigging. Is this assumption correct? Dave Reply from Ben at Ropes of Scale: Hello Dave, I would just stick with the polyester for all of the rigging. The only reason I keep the cotton line in stock is that I have a few customers that refuse to use polyester for some reason. They begged me to keep selling the cotton rope. Cotton rope is fuzzy and has less texture, the more you work with it on the model the more fuzz comes out. The polyester doesn't do that even if you try. The thread I use for the polyester rope is Gutermann E. It is the strongest and most abrasion-resistant thread I've ever seen. I've used it to replace the slacked rope on some of my old models, It holds the same tension all year round. The cotton sags and tightens with the seasons. I hope this clears things up for you. Regards, Ben

Thanks for sharing. I do plan on ordering some samples to work with. I see Ben sells both cotton and polyester lines. Since the cotton will sag over time, I'm assuming that the cotton is used for running rigging and the polyester for standing rigging. But will try and confirm this with Ben

That's a bit odd, since we both have the same kit. But at least now I know for sure.

The information that the kit lines were a cotton -poly blend came from the parts list that was included with the model. Guess that was wrong.

From the Griffin website: Product information "Jewelry Nylon" GRIFFIN Jewelry Nylon is a Nylon bead cord that is twisted once and made from premium nylon with a polished finish, long-lasting highly brilliant colour and supple softness combined with extremely robust thread properties. It is durable and easy to knot as it contracts back to its original length after it has been stretched, making it possible to create precise permanent knots.

So I will probably order some line from Ropes of Scale and do some side by side comparisons with the line that came with the kit.

Email sent to Ropes of Scale: Sirs, I'm fast approaching the rigging stage of my Bluenose and had some questions. The kit supplies 6 sizes of rigging lines / rope. All of these are cotton poly material. After spending the better part of the day trying to research the most appropriate material for my rigging, I'm more confused than ever. Some say lines should be pre stretched, some say a 50 / 50 mixture of white glue and water should be applied first; some say both. Others claim to use bees wax or even matt finish nail polish. I see you offer both cotton and poly lines. Perhaps you could explain the pros and cons of each material. Of importance to me is avoiding line sag over time, gluing ability, ability to hold knots, UV protection. Since this is my first build I would like to get solid information from an experienced source. Any technical information you could pass along would be much appreciated. Answer received: Hello Dave, I think I read your post on MSW. I can understand the confusion about the whole topic. Everyone has their own approach to rigging and how it should be done. Every type of cordage has its quirks. If you want to avoid sagging lines you should stay away from cotton. My poly rope is really strong, easy to use, and has no fuzz. I've tried PVA and thin CA for gluing knots/seizings and they both work. PVA is the weaker option and it takes the longest since it needs drying. Thin CA is really easy and it penetrates the rope to make a strong bond. For UV protection I would recommend Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish diluted 50/50, only use it after you have glued all the knots. If you varnished the rope before using it the glue won't penetrate. Bob Smith Industries has the best CA glues from my experience. The Insta cure super thin is good. The Insta flex thin is also great if you don't want rock-solid joints that stick out at odd angles, it also has less odor than most. You can always try your own experiments and see what you like. I hope I haven't made things more confusing for you. Best regards, Ben

Email I sent to Model Expo/ Model Shipways: "I'm in the process of building Bluenose, a kit I purchased from you some time ago. I have a question about the various size lines that came with the kit. Can you tell me what material these lines are made from? Do I need to treat these lines or pre stretch them before using them? I want to avoid any future sagging in the rigging." Answer received: Hello, Dave. The rigging line provided in your Bluenose kit is made in Germany by Griffin.de. They specialize in what they call Jewelry Nylon. This is the premiere line used for stringing pearls and beads. It is almost un-stretchable and knots easily and securely. There is no better thread for rigging model ships. It is unlikely that you'll see any sagging of the line in the future. Marc Mosko, President Model Shipways Inc. dba Model Expo 1155 NW 159th Drive, Miami Gardens, Florida 33169 www.modelexpo-online.com 954-261-7054

Enjoy the journey!

Just some base information. The kit I'm building is the Model Shipways Bluenose, kit #MS2130. It comes with 6 different size lines. Just found out these are a cotton / poly blend.

Thanks for all the tips and clues! I still have some metal work and painting to finish up before rigging the bowsprit. I'll do some trial methods of prepping the line and keep you all posted.

I agree that starting with the 3 model series would be the way to go. I would also add the Half Hull Planking Kit offered by the NRG to learn proper planking techniques. Membership in the NRG is a worthwhile investment as well.

Will start doing rigging soon on my Bluenose. I understand that the lines should first be coated with a 50 -50 solution of water and white glue . I also read the lines should be pre stretched. Wondered what is the best way to accomplish this. I'm building the MS model #2130 which comes with several different diameter size lines. Not sure what material these lines are made from. Any help would much appreciated. Dave

Journal on! While it may look difficult there are many who came before you with little to no skills. Trust me when I say most anyone can be successful in building these models. Remember, it's more about the journey than the destination.

Hey Tanner. Sounds like a fun project. If you could post pictures along with your questions it would be a big help. Lots of experienced people on this forum who will be more than happy to help you along.

Thanks ,Ed. I'll consider things as I finish up the remaining plates.

Thanks Ed, that's quite a compliment coming from someone with your skills. I didn't want the plates to adhere only to the paint on the hull so decided to sand off the paint and attach them directly to the wood. Used a #74 drill bit to "tap" holes through the plate and into the hull after securing it with gel CA. The "bolts" are brass nails. Shaft .026 and head .055. The ones I had were much too long so I cut them down to about 1/8 inch. Dipped the end in gel CA and used pin push pliers to set them flush. At this point not sure if I should do the rigging for the bowsprit now or leave it until I get to rigging the rest of the ship. Lots to do before I get to that point. Dave

Been awhile since my last update. I was stupid enough to dash out onto the wet patio in flip-flops and found out 71 year old's aren’t supposed to do the splits. Injured my right hamstring and just now getting back to normal. I used the mill to make the links needed for the bowsprit rigging. Sorry I didn’t take more pictures, sometimes I get so involved in the work I forget to take photos. I cut a strip of 1/64th thick brass and used double stick Nitto tape to mount it to a piece of wood. Then used the mill to cut out the centers of each link. Used my rotary tool with a cut off disk to separate the individual links. A quick filing rounded off the outside edges to finish them off. Then it was time to assemble the shackles, turnbuckle and to attach them to the bowsprit. Used small brass bolts for the shackle pins. These close-up photos make things look a bit rough but from normal viewing distance they look pretty good. Just need some paint touchup. Had to sand off the hull paint to firmly attach the bobstay plates. Here’s a pic of the installed plates with the links. Still need to repaint. So it’s onward and upward, have to make the plates and staples for the backrope now. Dave

Beautifully done Ed. You should be very proud!

Happy trails, Pat!

Welcome! There are a lot of newbies here as well as some very accomplished model builders. You will find the community friendly and helpful so never fear asking questions. Dave

Saw this on Ebay and was wondering what the history of it was. Looks to me massed produced because of the part numbers on it but would be easy to build your own.

Welcome! Always great to have new members!

Getting closer and closer to the end, Ed. And looking very nice!

Finally got back to building the turnbuckles. Life gets in the way this time of year with spring yard work and camping trips. I really wanted the turnbuckles to be open on both sides, as a real one would be. The challenge was to open one side and then rotate the brass tube as close to 180 degrees as possible to open the opposite side. I began by drilling a 1/32 hole in one end of a 1/16th brass tube, about 3 inches long. I used the tried and true “block method” to get it centered on the tube. Then drilled a 1/32 hole in a piece of brass scrap and used an old 1/32 drill bit for an alignment pin. Tacked down the rest of the tube with CA to hold it firmly in place. Put that in the mill and, using an end mill, cut down to open one side. After a soak in acetone, I flipped the tube over and opened the other side. Then used my rotary tool with a cut off disk to separate the individual pieces. I fashioned the simulated “bolts” from 22 gauge wire. Now I have to clean up all the pieces, and the previously made shackles and get the either blackened or painted black before assembling.