grsjax

Listed the plans on eBay with a 99 cent start and no reserve.

New unused plans for the HMS Bounty's launch.  5 large sheets with patterns parts.  $25 including shipping in US.

What I figured it was but was hoping someone made a legal one.

Is there any legit manufacture putting out a kit of the Greenwich Hospital Barge?  Looks like a really interesting small boat.

I have listed 3 Anatomy of the Ship books, Chapelle's "The Baltimore Clipper" and a copy of "The Neophyte Shipmodeller's Jackstay" on eBay with 99 cent starts and no reserve.  I will combine shipping on multiple purchases.  I use grsjax on eBay same as here.

Thanks for looking.

Bummer.  Maybe the NRG will put it on there resources page.

Go to the NRG home page link at the top of the page.  They have the individual articles for sale.

When time comes to rig your spars there is a great jig you can build yourself that was shown in Autumn 2017 issue (Vol 62, #3) issue of the Nautical Research Journal.  Looks like it will really help.

NRJ vol. 23 (1977) No. 1, 2, 3 and 4.  $10 plus shipping. 

Do a search for copper leaf or copper shim stock.  I believe K&S has foil/shim stock from .001 to .005 thickness.  Neither leaf, foil or shim stock has a clear coat and it isn't expensive.  If you go with any of these be sure and get the thicker stuff as it is easier to use for model work.  However the really thin leaf is to delicate for most models although for putting a copper bottom on a really small scale model it is perfect.

I find it less hassle to use the alcohol.  No lamps or heat guns required.  Just mix and paint.

Where we live in Hawaii the humidity tends to be high so water based paints dry more slowly than they would in a dryer place.  Rubbing alcohol works well for me under these circumstances but may not be a good solution for everyone.  Probably varies depending on the brand of paint as well.

Check a jewelry supply website or on eBay.  7, 9, 21 and 49 (7x7 strand, best for rigging) strand cable is used for stringing beads.  Looks just like wire rope but in very small sizes.  Here is a link to an eBay seller.  There are many more.

Assuming that your intended use is doing fine shaping and smoothing with the chisels than 30-35 degrees is appropriate.  If you want to use them to hog out a lot of wood than a a larger angle might be better.  The finer the edge the better control for fine work.  For work requiring more force you want the edge to be supported by more metal behind it.

Great find.  I checked Amazon and they have it for $14.95 with free shipping for Prime members.  Also there are a couple of similar engraving pens with higher ratings and a bit lower price.

Are there any vendors in the US that sell the AER wooden ship models?

Excel.  Better than xacto in my experience.

I will get some pics of the gun parts asap.  Good photo.  Has a lot of detail I haven't seen before.

I have a Billings Boats kit of the HMS Renown's 50ft Steam Pinnace kit #604.  Looks like a pretty good kit with better than average instructions for a Billings kit.  Problem is the assembly instructions for the 3pr gun mounted in bows of the boat.  The problem is there doesn't seem to be any.  A few poor quality pictures of the gun and the picture on the box is about all the info there is.  Some of the assembly is obvious but it would be nice if there were actual instructions or at least a diagram of how the parts fit together.  I don't know if there is something missing from the  kit instructions or I am just overlooking something.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

2 hours ago, BETAQDAVE said:

Is there any source that you are aware of that can supply them?

https://kamuelahardwoods.com/

Kamuela hardwoods is the only one I have direct experience with.  There are a few others but I do not know if they will deal is small quantities and by mail.

Hawaii is one of those places where almost any kind of tree will grow.  Unfortunately apple, pear, walnut and boxwood are not among the trees that thrive here.  Below is a picture of some of the common wood found in this area.  There are many more species but this is what I had on hand to photograph so I will start there and possibly in the future add others.

From left to right they are causarina, tropical almond, mango, albiza, lemon, ohia, milo and avocado.

Causarina, also known as Australian pine, she oak, iron wood and river oak is a tree native to Australia.  Introduced in Hawaii as a wind break tree.  The wood is hard with a moderate grain and red coloring varied from a very light red brown sap wood to a dark red heart wood.  To coarse for exterior use on a model that is going to be finished bright but and excellent wood for framing that will remain hidden.  Tends to crack during drying and bleed dark read sap when first cut.  Doesn't seem to be a good wood for bending.

Tropical Almond is a tree native to the south Pacific and may be native to Hawaii but there is some that think it was introduced after European contact.  Popular shade tree in seaside parks.  Similar to a tree native to Hawaii called Kamani or Hawaiian oak.  Hard wood with a light brown sap  wood and darker brown heart wood.  Nice grain and works easily.  Fairly hard with a moderate grain.  To coarse for exterior use unless painted but other wise a good wood to work with.  Very good for display base and/or cabinet.

Mango.  Common in tropical areas.  Beautiful grain but way to coarse for model building.  The dust and sap can cause irritation and rash.

Albiza.  Native to India and is the fastest growing tree in the world.  Considered a trash tree in Hawaii but has nice wood with some interesting properties.  Very light, heavier than balsa but lighter than basswood.  Very strong for it weight but has a coarse, stringy texture.  Works easily and holds fastenings fairly well.  Does not bend well.  Makes a great wood for fillers and backing pieces and can be used for a solid hull that will be planked over.

Lemon.  This piece is from a Meyer lemon tree my neighbor cut down.  Unfortunately is laid on the ground in the rain for several days before I found out about it.  Hard, tight grained wood that saws, carves and turns well.  Very susceptible to insect attack and staining if not seasoned and stored correctly.  Very good all around modeling wood.

Ohia is the most common native tree in Hawaii and is found no where else.  Scientific names is polymorphus because it can grown in a large variety of forms from a low spreading bush to a giant a hundred feet tall and 3 feet thick at the base depending on the conditions.  Hard, dense and close grained wood.  Will crack if not sealed as soon as it is cut and seasoned correctly.  Has been used for outrigger canoes, flooring, furniture, musical instruments, turning and carving.  Color varies from medium brown to a very dark, reddish brown.  In general an excellent wood for modeling especially for dark parts finished bright.

Milo is another tree native to Hawaii and found on other south Pacific islands.  Beautiful wood for carving.  Moderately hard with a close grain.  Light brown sap wood and dark brown heart wood.  Some really old trees have heart wood that is very nearly black.  Common in coastal areas where there is a source of fresh water.  Tends to have a very convoluted, multi-trunk structure so finding long, straight pieces is unusual.  An excellent wood for model building.

Avocado.  Common tree in warm climates including southern California and Florida.  Wood is a light brown with a grain that varies from tight and straight to wavy with flecks.  Good wood for general purpose use in model building but the grain can be a problem.

4 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Were you using it with solvent or water based paint?

I was using water based paints.

4 hours ago, mikiek said:

I had some problems getting a good seal on soft or grainy wood.

So far no problems with wicking on basswood.  I use the blunt end of an exacto knife handle to press it down well before applying the paint.

My wife the artist introduced me to this stuff.  I tried it out on a piece of raw basswood sheet and it produced very good results.  Easy to apply and cut.  Left a sharp edge after painting and removal.  Anyone have experience with this item and is there anything to watch out for when using it?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QVBQBG/ref=twister_B01DTEDTEW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is way out of date but if you still need info here is a link to a build log on a Dutch site that has pictures of the parts sheets.

https://www.modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=25936

Motor oil may be to thick for your machine.  A lighter machine oil would be better.  A lot of different places should carry what you need.  The same type of oil is used to lubricate fishing reels, sewing machines, small motors and other light equipment.  Not sure if it is still available or sold in the UK if it is but the old standby household oil called 3 in 1 oil would be a good choice.  If nothing all else fails ask at a hardware store for light machine oil.