Jump to content

Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. I have laid down strake #10 and now need to spile #11, #12 and #13. Here is where I think I should depart from the instructions. At bulkhead 0, the gap is 3/4”. The gap at bulkhead F is narrower and at stern, more. My plan is as follows: Use calipers to measure the width of the gap at each bulkhead and divide each into three equal parts, recording the numbers and putting tick marks on the bulkhead. Then, lay down wide tape (I am going to use 3” wide Patco 5560 wide Scotch Magic Tape on top since you cannot write on the Patco tape. Petco tape will hold its shape quite well and is r
  2. Nine planks on both sides down. No real serious surprises here but the reader should note the above comments since the last pictures. Well, ready to do the last four strakes. The final three might have to be spiled from a 1/16” thick basswood sheet or 1/16” X 1/2” stock. So far I have not had to do any spiling, therefore this will be new territory for me.
  3. Hello Arthur, Yes it makes sense. I have experienced this as well. I think I have now completed plank #8 successfully on one side.
  4. Arthur, was it necessary for you to sand the hull planks to achieve a smooth join between strakes or did they join up with no step?
  5. I am having more trouble with plank #8 then I was expecting. The problem is at the stem. I assume the planks need to be flat against the bulkheads G and H. To do this, it is necessary to twist the planks. When positioned against plank #7, the joint between #7 and #8 is not “smooth.” I suppose chamfering the joint would help but I’m not sure that it will do the trick. Am I on the right track?
  6. Well, I finally got the sheer plank and two more strakes added. No real issues but I redid the stern section of plank #6 several times because of the severe twists involved. I am only somewhat satisfied with the overall build so far but I believe it will work out alright. If I started over, I’m not sure it would end up being completely satisfactory anyway as perfection takes lots of practice and this is my first plank-bulkhead boat/ship. I have backed up several times to correct issues. BTW, I forgot to put “tar” lines in before gluing and I am trying to put them in after-the-fact with a
  7. Arthur, somewhere I got the impression that 3/8”x1/16” planks were also to used to form strakes #11, #12 and #13. Would there be enough to do the platforms, floorboards and strakes? Is this what you were referring to on the Medway Longboat?
  8. Very nice work and useful information Arthur. I will let everyone know about the kit supplied materials when I get there. Still working at a sub-snail pace. Paul
  9. Thanks for the suggestion. My description is very specific to this model. As far as wider planks, I have some 1/2" basswood stock; however, I want to keep the strakes in this region at 1/4 inch.
  10. Well, I have completed the third strake. The stem end falls a bit short of what I think it should as seen in the instructions where it seems to end slightly past bulkhead G. In order to extend the third strake farther resulted in a slight concave or reverse edge bend somewhere in the section from the tip at bulkhead G to bulkhead D and this was not acceptable. I was just unable to get it to work. A wider strake would have worked, but I am proceeding as is with the stock planks extended as far as possible while at the same time hoping everything will work out well later.
  11. The water alcohol mixture allows heating the water to boiling, penetrates the wood well, and more importantly, evaporates quickly with the heat gun. I keep the hot solution in a stainless vacuum thermos type drink container. I also found that small dents can be fairly easily removed by dabbing hot solution on the dents and allowing them to swell out. Klean Kanteen
  12. Well I got the next two strakes on. I first sanded a gentler curve on the stem end of the garboards. See the comments by Arthur Wayne in his log on the same boat where he discusses the length of the curve. I concur with his analysis that the cord of the curve on the garboard should be nearer 2 1/4” rather than the suggested 1 1/4” in the instructions. This allows the planks to be edge bent more easily. To edge bend the stem end and twist the stern end of the second strakes, I soaked the stem and stern planks in very hot 50-50 water isopropyl alcohol mixture for several minutes. Then the plank
  13. Thanks Arthur - No bad weather here -never know in the springtime. I think you’re right about the curve of the garboard. Looking at the top right picture on p 15 it would seem that the curve goes from bulkhead E to bulkhead C rather than a bit past bulkhead D. I have the garboards cut to the suggested 1 3/4” and I am also experiencing some wood collapsing. Before putting on the second strake, I may try filing or sanding the garboard into a gentler curve as removing the garboard may cause some bulkhead and/or keel damage.
  14. Arthur, did you use the taping method when spiking from the second strake on or did you cut the second and third strakes by trial and error and error?
  15. Hello Arthur, I am building this boat for my first plank on bulkhead build. I am very impressed by your good work. I only hope I can live with mine after I get through as I am really struggling along. I have almost taken the position that makers of the original prototypes probably make mistakes and lived with the workarounds and so will I. I will be following your work with anticipation as I move along and I may have some questions for you from time to time if you don't mind. Paul Schulze
  16. Hello Vossiewulf, when attaching a long strake with CA, do you attach it little by little or all at once? Since it seems to bond so fast, I have not tried it except on small pieces.
  17. One problem I have not solved is the “denting” of the planks by clamps. I have tried everything I can think of too avoid this. I may be clamping way too hard but I don’t think so. Some marks can be removed by wetting the affected areas slightly with water after the glue has dried. I hope those with experience can throw out some suggestions.
  18. At first I was confused about the garboard. The manual gave instructions which left me somewhat clueless so I asked for help elsewhere on the planking, etc., forum section. After several discussions, all became clear as the lightbulbs came on. My drawing there was essentially correct. Shown below the garboards are being glued into place. The twists were accomplished by soaking in nearly boiling water for a few minutes, clamped in place and then fanned with a heat gun set on low for several minutes. I used yellow glue to attach them to the keel. I did one side at a time.
  19. A couple of additional notes to my above post I didn't want to redo the keels when I replaced bulkheads, which I should have measured, 2, 3 and 4, so I made shims to fill the gaps left by replacing the wider bulkheads. This issue could have been avoided if I had been more careful and observant. I feel some work arounds are Ok as real boat builders will surely have had to face them. Secondly, I accidentally found that wood glue on wood from pieces pulled apart will reactivate when a wet piece of wood with no glue is pressed or clamped against it. This can be useful or no
  20. The placing of the bulkheads showed up another kit problem which I caught only after gluing. Three bulkheads were slightly thicker than the rest. I measured the laser cut sheets and, yep, the entire sheet was 1/32” thicker than specified in the parts list. I got a replacement and all is well.
  21. I used a granite countertop as a flat gluing surface. The first attempt was nearly disastrous as the keel and false keel snapped apart when I tried to clamp them. I decided to glue them in steps. I made little wedge “clamps “ using scraps of wood just for this. Next will be to add bulkheads.
  22. The tools I really like are the Dremmel, an X-acto #17 chisel blade for trimming, a tabletop belt sander for shaping, assorted hemostats, tweezers and sanding sticks, side cutters, and assorted clamps. For glue, my go to is yellow glue. Toothpicks are indispensable. Notice the 2” solid oak board with two clamps attached. This works great for clamping ship/boat by strong back or keel.
  • Create New...