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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. Glad to see your on it. Are you doing the armed long boat? It’l be good to have build company.
  2. I really like the idea of not edge gluing. How well does this work? Do you get any edge separation early or later on?
  3. Hello Vossiewulf, when attaching a long strake with CA, do you attach it little by little or all at once? Since it seems to bond so fast, I have not tried it except on small pieces.
  4. One problem I have not solved is the “denting” of the planks by clamps. I have tried everything I can think of too avoid this. I may be clamping way too hard but I don’t think so. Some marks can be removed by wetting the affected areas slightly with water after the glue has dried. I hope those with experience can throw out some suggestions.
  5. At first I was confused about the garboard. The manual gave instructions which left me somewhat clueless so I asked for help elsewhere on the planking, etc., forum section. After several discussions, all became clear as the lightbulbs came on. My drawing there was essentially correct. Shown below the garboards are being glued into place. The twists were accomplished by soaking in nearly boiling water for a few minutes, clamped in place and then fanned with a heat gun set on low for several minutes. I used yellow glue to attach them to the keel. I did one side at a time.
  6. A couple of additional notes to my above post I didn't want to redo the keels when I replaced bulkheads, which I should have measured, 2, 3 and 4, so I made shims to fill the gaps left by replacing the wider bulkheads. This issue could have been avoided if I had been more careful and observant. I feel some work arounds are Ok as real boat builders will surely have had to face them. Secondly, I accidentally found that wood glue on wood from pieces pulled apart will reactivate when a wet piece of wood with no glue is pressed or clamped against it. This can be useful or not depending on the situation. This last fact may be old hat to most but I found it quite interesting.
  7. The placing of the bulkheads showed up another kit problem which I caught only after gluing. Three bulkheads were slightly thicker than the rest. I measured the laser cut sheets and, yep, the entire sheet was 1/32” thicker than specified in the parts list. I got a replacement and all is well.
  8. I used a granite countertop as a flat gluing surface. The first attempt was nearly disastrous as the keel and false keel snapped apart when I tried to clamp them. I decided to glue them in steps. I made little wedge “clamps “ using scraps of wood just for this. Next will be to add bulkheads.
  9. The tools I really like are the Dremmel, an X-acto #17 chisel blade for trimming, a tabletop belt sander for shaping, assorted hemostats, tweezers and sanding sticks, side cutters, and assorted clamps. For glue, my go to is yellow glue. Toothpicks are indispensable. Notice the 2” solid oak board with two clamps attached. This works great for clamping ship/boat by strong back or keel.
  10. You are most welcome to watch me putter alongside my build. By the way, there is a kit on sale on eBay UK if you are interested.
  11. You are most welcome to watch me putter alongside my build. By the way, there is a kit on sale on eBay UK if you are interested.
  12. Hello All, this is both my first plank-on-bulkhead build and first build log. I am very slow but hopefully not as slow as my first ship, Scientific Models solid hull Cutty Sark (above) which I started many years ago. My hobby time is divided between astrophotography, model N-Gauge trains and ship modeling. I will start by posting some kit pictures.
  13. In order to post a build log, do you go to the section entitled build logs from model kits and post a new topic with the title of the build or do you simply start a new topic anywhere?
  14. Thanks for the encouragement. I will give it strong consideration. I already have kept a photograph documentation log on my phone which I could use to bring a build log up to where I am now.
  15. I have thought about a build log but I am going so slow that I don’t know if it would be beneficial to me or anyone. I hope to complete the boat someday but sometimes I wonder.
  16. I think I will start over to just before the errors begin. Thanks for the input as I just needed a little encouragement to get it done right. A little time is worth doing it correctly.
  17. I assume that by the lack of response, what I do is up to me and really is up to me. Except for scale, this boat is very much like the smaller Model Shipways 18th Century Long Boat. If builders of that boat have any comments on this I would appreciate them. My present plan is to start jointing according to the suggested plans. That way only one strake joint will be out of plan.
  18. Suppose wood glue dries in a somewhat smeared fashion, let’s say, on strakes. If scraped and sanded, will stain not cover uniformly?
  19. This is probably a somewhat silly inquiry. I am working on the Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Long Boat. When I first looked at the instructions, I got the stem and stern reversed as only the center or 0 bulkhead was marked for placement of the strake joints. Therefore my placements of the joints are now on the way to being 180 degrees out of phase from aft to bow. Since I am only two strakes beyond the garboard, I could continue, or I could start correcting or I could start over. I would prefer to not start over as the completed strakes were very difficult. Which of (1), continuing on, or (2), start correcting, would the forum suggest? I am thinking that it probably does not really matter but I would appreciate experienced feedback.
  20. Working very slowly on building this boat and wish to share a couple of things I have found which worked for me. When fairing the bulkheads, I also found some bulkheads are too low. Rather than replace them I carefully used something like Testors or other suitable Contour Putty to build up low areas. How this will look on the inside remains to be seen although I use it sparingly and keep it off the sides. Additionally, when bending strikes, I found that soaking the planks in near boiling water for a few minutes, clamping in place followed by judicious use of a heat gun on low, worked very well so far for me.
  21. If the nails are for looks and not for holding, their is a log I saw on this site where a build showed black monofilament line inserted into predrilled holes.
  22. Gregory, referring to the above photo, is the next plank to the garboard a straight plank which is cut angled at the end and bent into place? I am asking this as it seems this will have something to do with how I cut my garboard which is very much like the one shown here.
  23. The garboard on my model does not meet the bow but is supposed to terminate three bulkheads short. It then appears to curve outward from the keel towards the stern. Would using masking tape work here or is there a better way? It looks like the curvature (near the center of the curve) of the cut generally points towards the stern in all cases. However, in your case, the curvature points below the keel. In my case, the curvature points above the keel. So if you move from your case to my situation on different models , it looks like the curvature will move from somewhere below the keel to somewhere above the keel. Does this sound reasonable? Note: Curvature points along a radius away from the curve.
  24. I think maybe I might have it. After looking at logs and studying the shapes of garboards, I think this quick sketch might show what the instructions are trying to say. The striped area would be cut away. Does this seem reasonable? The plank is 1/4 inch wide. Do most builders just make the shape of the garboard by looks so that it has a smooth flow into the keel or what?

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