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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. I have completed the cap rails with some complications. Getting the shape using card stock as per instructions went OK. I cut the cap rails as one continuous piece per side thus departing from the instructions. Shaping was not too difficult. except fitting at bow was moderately difficult. After gluing, I found that I needed to have the outside of the cap rails extend over the transom sides.I will fix this later by inserting an extension.
  2. Continuing my last log entry, I would like to describe my work on the cockpit seats. As Arthur Wayne describes in his log, the locker lid was not long enough to extend from front to back. Similarly I found mine to be too short as well. My solution was to cut the last “board” off and replace it with a wider one. The photos below will illustrate my solution. Cut off l”board” Adding wider stripe using cockpit seat Using cockpit seat to mark curve on locker lid for cutting. The laser lines line up when cutting the last “board” off. Also,
  3. Finished Thwarts and the support posts which were kind of fun to make Again, I found the key to success was using sharp #11 blades Marking off 1/4” drops and cutting 1/32” deep cuts all the way around. Made slices on corners from 1/3 mark to the 1/32” cuts first and then trimmed the rest. Sanded with medium sanding sticks in order to get final results. Finished product before staining. Installing stained Thwarts and posts. I will show final results with completed cockpit seats in next log entry.
  4. Next I tackled the Thwart Risers. First I made a scoring jig to score the risers. The jig took about 20 minutes to make and score all the 1/4" strips I would need. Below is a drawing of the scoring jig. I plan to make a similar jig for the Thwarts. I set masking tape at the appropriate height and glued the first Thwart Riser in without a hitch. The second one caused me no little grief but I finally got it positioned correctly after three tries. When removing CA glue with Un-Cure, it is important to grab the right bottle and not some ultra thin CA glue - Sigh! Just as a passin
  5. have completed the platforms. The shape of the hull was drawn on two cards for each platform. The frame locations were noted and marked then cut out on each card. For each platform, the cards were slid togther and taped into position so they would accurately convey the shape of each plateform. The glued together 1/4" x 1/16" basswood strips were then cut to match the templates. I then carefully separated the wood near the center and adjusted the wood to fit into place on the boat. Then the two halves were glued into place after I was satisfied that everything was fitting well
  6. I cut the above bulkhead apart and aligned the frames at the sheer end as well as the hull curve. The result is about 1mm difference at the keel end.Not much but it is amazing how the eye can pick up this slight difference on the assembled hull. I conclude that it should not stop any boat building. I press on!
  7. Thanks all for the suggestion. I came up with a better solution which most builders probably cannot do. I had an extra sheet with #1 bulkhead on it which I cut out and flipped over. You can see from the picture below that the starboard side is steeper than the port side. It is not much but it is noticeable. I think when completely built it may not be too bad. Reshaping the bulkheads could have been done but it would have resulted in one side of the frame being thinner than the other. This should be corrected in laser cutting control if others are experiencing this. I find it hard
  8. I did not notice something until now, but the curve of my bulkheads do not seem symmetrical resulting in the starboard side of the boat being steeper from keel to the shear than on the port side. It is slight but I see it on the boat. The photograph below shows just one of the laser cutout scraps. I saved all the scrap sheets and everyone seems to show this non-symmetrical behavior. Sigh! 😔 Can anyone else see this or is it my imagination?
  9. Used bit of CA to glue temporary 1/16” spacers in place on edge of previously glued floorboard. Easy back-and-forth motion breaks spacers loose after next floorboard is glued into place.
  10. Arthur, Nicpro 120 PCS Utility Excel Blades #11, and, Stainless Steel Sterilized Scalpel Blades (100 PC.) Both can be found at Amazon. For the scalpel blades, I actually bought Viamed #11 Scalpel Blades (100 PC.) but for the life of me I cannot remember where. Any of the blades listed should be essentially the same. They come individually wrapped in easy open wrappers and fit #1 X-acto handles.
  11. Fairing completed. Yay 😀 I decided to carve away instead of sanding. After reading Arthur Wayne’s great blog, hours and hours of sanding did not seem like fun. Carving became easier after the first couple of frames. I believe the key to successful carving is to use only sharp #11 blades. I used up to 5 or 6 #11 surgical and hobby blades per frame as they are relatively inexpensive. Surgical blades can be deformed for cutting in difficult areas. Hobby blades are rather stiff and more difficult to deform.
  12. Sanding the interior was done with Squadron sanding sticks and 3M sanding blocks cut into strips and rolled into a curve. The boat shown below is ready to have the frames faired.
  13. Hello Dan, Thank you for compiling these logs into a easy to use index. I have a comment about the small craft log and specifically about the 18th Century Long Boat versus the 18th Century Armed Long Boat. Arthur Wayne, Sea Hoss, Dwight and myself (Dr PS) are listed as 18th Century Long Boats and Tiger65 as an 18th Century Armed Long Boat . In order to help readers find the logs on the 18th Century Armed Long Boat, it would be helpful to list them all as 18th Century Armed Long Boats . The two models are similar in many ways but there are some very specific issues associated with
  14. Very nice boat build I am most impressed by how fast you built this boat. Did you ever eat or sleep? I am doing this build as well and will consult your log as I proceed. BTW, I do N-Gauge model trains.
  15. I seriously doubt I will catch you in two weeks. I am splitting my time between this project and work on my N-Gauge model railroad. BTW, now we have a growing group of builders of this boat called the ALB group. I guess we are really a subgroup - Ha. Thanks all for the encouragement. You know, looking back a quick couple of weeks ago or so, I would tell my younger self to do a better job at fairing. That is one area I really need to learn more about before I ever start another plank-on-bulkhead project. This time through it was just guess work. Good fairing would
  16. Hello Sea Hoss, Welcome to the 18th Century Armed Long Boat group 😎 You are moving right along and it looks good. I’ll be following your log with interest. I am curious as to how starting your garboard at bulkhead G will work out as there are 12 strakes above the garboard and they have to fit into the rabbet at the bow. I don’t know if you will have to use drop planks or not.
  17. Well I think I have the hull nearly finished and I am almost ready to go to the next step. Before I post my results, consider a few steps I used in forming some of the strakes. I have included this for readers who may be unfamiliar with this technique. Above: Wide Patco tape overlayed with Scotch tape marked with #4 pencil. This step is typical Above: Tape on basswood sheet. Above: Blade used to mark wood prior to cutting. Tape removed in case a second cut is needed. Above: Plank ready for trimming to fit. Used sanding sticks for final
  18. I have laid down strake #10 and now need to spile #11, #12 and #13. Here is where I think I should depart from the instructions. At bulkhead 0, the gap is 3/4”. The gap at bulkhead F is narrower and at stern, more. My plan is as follows: Use calipers to measure the width of the gap at each bulkhead and divide each into three equal parts, recording the numbers and putting tick marks on the bulkhead. Then, lay down wide tape (I am going to use 3” wide Patco 5560 wide Scotch Magic Tape on top since you cannot write on the Patco tape. Petco tape will hold its shape quite well and is r
  19. Nine planks on both sides down. No real serious surprises here but the reader should note the above comments since the last pictures. Well, ready to do the last four strakes. The final three might have to be spiled from a 1/16” thick basswood sheet or 1/16” X 1/2” stock. So far I have not had to do any spiling, therefore this will be new territory for me.
  20. Hello Arthur, Yes it makes sense. I have experienced this as well. I think I have now completed plank #8 successfully on one side.
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