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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. I have run into a potential problem with the main mast. The main mast is to be made from 5/16" dowel. The Boom Iron Strap is to be located 3" up from the bottom. The mast is to be tapered from the 3" mark at the bottom end to the top of the mast. Now the Boom Iron Strap (which I assume is the Boom Ring in the Cast Metal Parts list picture below as there is no other part big enough except for the Horse Traveler which is too large) has an inside diameter of 1/4" which is way smaller than the plans or material provided. The only possibility is that the Boom Ring and Horse Traveler are labele
  2. Hello Curtis, I hope you have had time to start your 18th Century Armed Longboat. This boat is a lot of fun and there are several of us doing build logs. Join us when you can.
  3. Arthur, I used Jax Pewter Black. I poured some in a kitchen measuring glass shot glass and soaked the parts for about five minutes and then cleaned with Dawn and water. Prior to this I cleaned the parts in alcohol. I am also going to try Birchwood Brass Black on the horse. Hope this helps. Paul
  4. Finished painting the hull and making the rudder assembly. After masking off the hull, I gave one coat of primer, two coats of white and one coat of satin finish. Next up was the transom. Same treatment as for the hull except red paint instead of white. The tiller was made in a manner as partly described in post #92. The rudder was shaved down as per instructions, given two coats of clear satin, masked off for the painting of the red and white parts, painted, and then given a coat of clear satin to seal. The pintles, gudgeon and eyebolt were blackened using pewter blac
  5. Looks like it’s coming along quite well. I’m curious as to how your decking is going to turn out. It sounds interesting.
  6. For the rub rails I decided to use some 1/8” x 1/8” x 24” basswood from my stock and make one piece rails shaping using the scraper described in post entry #85. After hot water forming and painting, I decided on essentially a non-clamp approach. One clamp was used at the stem around the keel to keep the rails pinned to the hull while using medium CA every three to four inches along the rails down to the transom in order to tack the rails in place. Then super thin CA was run down the rails as per instructions. The transom rub rail was tacked with medium CA only a couple of places and will be g
  7. Arthur, I not sure if I’m ahead yet as I don’t have the rub rails on yet. I hope to get them on today. I have been doing yard work instead since the rains have stopped and the yard has dried up some. I did get the tiller done on my next try after I posted about it in #92, but that’s about it. Why on earth would boat builders paint a rub rail white as it would be banged up all the time?
  8. Just some encouragement for those still working on the tiller. It can be done. I have only carved a test piece although it came out 2.5” in length by accident. Not curved though. If you are lucky enough to get a 3/64” “pin” put a bit of super thin CA on it as the CA will harden it. I will save this one just in case as I think it can be bent using very hot water. Now I get to try for the real thing. 😳 BTW, I use Bob Smith CA and their accelerator. This stuff is great.
  9. Well I did a bunch of research/searching on the subject of bleeding paint under masking tape. Whew! It’s amazing how many ideas there are out there - from brands of tape to how it’s applied or pulled off. I finally thought I would try the combination of a couple which seemed reasonable and made real sense. First, when applying the tape, do not stretch it and rub it smooth five or six times with a clean cloth to make sure the tape edge is sealed well. It goes without saying that the surface should be clean as well. Second, paint the edge of tape with the masked color, in this case clear satin
  10. Well, I’m ready to paint the hull. I made one attempt using blue masking tape but the red paint started leaking underneath it as it seemed to get buckled when it got wet from the paint. The clear satin seems to slick for the masking tape to work. I wonder if electrical tape would work? That is one listed for masking in the front of the manual. Another one listed was low tack automotive tape whatever that is - maybe something for painting.
  11. Yes it is very small, and being soft metal, I have no idea how it would scrape anything very well much less be easy to hold. I just hope I don’t break one of my strips when I get around to putting them on. I wish I had a stock of boxwood. Where do ship artisans get it? I sort of remember something like The Lumber Mill or something like that. BTW, I tried to delete that last two photos in my last post and they just keep reappearing. Any suggestions?
  12. Jumping ahead a bit, I decided to form the rub rails with 1:8” x 1/8” x 24” basswood from Hobby Lobby. And since I love to design and use jigs, I made one for shaping the rub rails. If you look at an Xacto blade, you will notice that it has an extended oval. Xacto blades can be easily snapped be holding the blade with pliers and glove or rag and extremely bent. Try to get the break so that the resulting “legs” are the same length. Then mount the blade/cutter onto blocks which are separated by 1/8” using CA glue. Add additional blocks as braces as well as making it easier to hold.
  13. Arthur, your schooling plans sound great. All the best. I am referring to the horse made of the 3/64" round bar. In the picture from the manual which I am showing below, it looks to me like they squared it off.
  14. Arthur, I hope your schooling goes well. What is your chosen field of study? A question on the build, is the horse really square? At 5/64”, there will be nothing left of the rod. I am tempted to just leave it round. Do you know what the prototype was? I have been scouring the builds but have not found anything yet. I am adding and edit to this post as I went back in your log and found the entry by xken and his horse I think appears to be round and not square. I will proceed as I was inclined to do and go with round unless I find out differently.
  15. Arthur, I wonder if the prototype builder had the same problems with the rudder and tiller? I am not looking forward to possibly running into the same issues. BTW, your square “holes” look really good. I got mine fairly square but had trouble getting them uniform. Leaving the state soon? Maybe you’ll decide to retire here someday. Anyway, the internet reaches everywhere.
  16. Well, I started windlass with eager enthusiasm. First I made another jig (I like jigs) to ensure the lines drawn along the 5/16” square “rods” were straight and uniform. It is shown below. Next I proceeded to draw all the cut lines. Here’s where my enthusiasm waned. The first try was too short as I measured wrong. The second try was a flop. The third and fourth tries were OK but not to my satisfaction. I stopped on the fifth. The handles were fairly easy to carve. The finished windlass with handles is shown in the boat below. I wonder where the sailors sitting in
  17. Arthur, maybe I’ll catch up with you, however I’m hoping not as your build log is very helpful. That said, I’m nearly finished with the Thwart Kees, Transom Kees and Breast Hook. This has been one of the most time consuming steps outside of planking. It looked so easy when I started. For the Transom Kees I had to glue tabs under the Cap Rails next to the Transom. The tabs were helpful when positioning the Kees. Some time ago I did a crazy thing and bought another complete kit which on sale. I have needed too many replacement parts to request them from Model Expo. I found that s
  18. If I may interject, go to an article posted in this forum: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf
  19. Again reading ahead would be good - very good. When I read your log, I get ahead of myself and assume things which would be resolved easily by reading the appropriate section in the manual. Duh 🙄
  20. Hey, your boat is really looking great. Is the scraper you mentioned just a half round piece of metal or something else? I have not seen the 1/48th scale boat scraper.
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