John Gummersall

Next come bending the cover over the carriage structure. Instructions calls to start at one end and slowly with CA glue bend the wood over the cover. To me that seemed kind of hard and i am not a big fan of CA glue when wood glue would work. To me the easiest way to ben the cover over the structure was to slightly dampen the cover - both sides. Find the middle of the sheet and clamp the carriage to it. I then used a heat gun to soften the wood (not sure that was necessary) and slowly bent each side up at the same time. Again, make sure the carriage is securely clamped to the center of the wood sheet. At that point l the sheet is up over both sides, clamp it well and let it dry overnight. Next day remove the clamps. The cover sheet will flop down some, but can easily be bent back. Add some wood glue to all glue spots and clamp well. Again wait over night for the glue to really set up. In addition to clamps, some rubber bands were added at the curve to make sure it was also well glued. Next day when clamps are removed all is good Used an exacto knife and sand paper to remove the excess wood. I forget exactly what happened here with the gouges, but it had nothing to do with bending the wood. I seem to remember "trying to be cute" and "Fast" with the wood trimming and these gouges were the result. Not a big deal. A little wood filler and all is good with the world On to lining the inside of the carriage with the really thin .06mm sapelly wood. That is really thin... it splits and cracks just looking at it. I found one was that worked for me in cutting the sapelly was to use a sharp scissors. It is especially hard on both sides of the carriage as the sides are curved. So you have to shape the wood and it can be a challange do to the wood being so thin. Once side complete Second side complete. I am not too worried about the middle piece on the left being a little short. In the end, when the floor is laid and seats added, that little gap will not be seen. However, there really was no excuse for that piece being short.... other than lack of skill on my part 🙂

Next step call for gluing the floor between the curved walls. Instructions say to do this like it is not big deal. And for a more experienced modeler maybe it is obvious. I spent way too many hours successfully discovering all the ways not to do it. May issue is the fact that the wall are not yet secure, so gluing on the bottom proved challenging. Anyway secret (for me anyway) was to use double sided tape. Tape holds the sides steady while the top is glued. Here again, ways not to do it. I initially used some 30 lbs double sided tape. As soon as I stuck on the first piece, I knew I was in trouble. Tape was way too strong and I felt I would break the piece trying to get it off the tape. I then used some 6 lbs tape. Again too strong, but that is was I used. After glue dried, with a putty knife I slowly worked off the pieces. If you have some plan double sided tape around, you might try that. I may or may not be strong enough, but it is worth a try. All it has to do is keep the base from moving around while you glue on the floor. A few pictures showing the floor being glued onto the carriage. With the base secure due to the tape, it was pretty straight forward. And finally gluing on the two straight beams

Final step for the frame is to add the previously assembled wheels and haul pole. And the frame is complete At this point the frame is complete.. It will be set aside, at the speed I build models, for a very long time while the carriage is built. Not required, but I choose to pre-bend the bottom half of the carriage by wetting it and using the outline the upper curved beams, let it sit over night. with both side pre-bent I joined them with the upper curved beams. At this point the instructions call to "glue on the floor".... Prior to doing that I drew some lines on the floor to give me a line of reference when later laying the floor beams. Lines are not any particular distance apart. They are just there to give a line of reference when laying the floor beams in a later step.

Really nice work so far...... Who says you can not have too many clamps? 🙂

Creating the four frame exterior and interior brackets. This involves curling over the ends of each bracket and then inserting the interior bracket inside the exterior bracket. Note the resulting hole in the end of the combined brackets will eventually need to be able to fit a 1.5 rod. Before you are finished, make sure you can fit a 1.5 rod in the rolled hole at the end of the combined bracket. This will save you a headache later on. Making the suspension spring links, instructions call to use the etched brass parts and 1.5mm brass rod and attach them with CA glue. My problem was that the holes in the etched brass parts was a little larger then 1.5mm. Not sure the CA glue would really fill the gap and hold tight. Instead I used a tab of epoxy to hold the 1.5mm brass pieces. Epoxy not because there would be any stress on these joint, but more for it was thick enough to fill the gap. All would be painted black in the end anyway Bracket clamps attached to the frame after painting them yellow And then adding the black suspension springs via the suspension spring brackets

Next item is to figure out where the brake bar is located on the frame. Instructions call for it to be 24mm back from the front stabilizer. Not sure I would trust that measurement - especially with my modeling skills... Instead I temporarily put on the rear wheels, and with a toothpick holding up the brake struts, it is pretty easy to see where the brake bar should be located. Basically above the holes in the brake struts. Instructions do not call to cut a little channel in the three lengthwise beams, but the brackets (that attach the brake bar) are too small to fit around the brake bar, so you really have no choice. From the measurement above, mark the lengthwise beams adjacent to the holes, and with a drill bit, create a little channel to hole the brake bar. Use the brackets that are used to attach the brake bar as a guide as to how deep the channel needs to be. When all is done, brake bar should easily fit into the three lengthwise beams. Brake bar only now needs some blackening. Next the three brake bar rails were formed to shape and located on the three lengthwise beams. Again temporarily attach the rear wheels and position the brake to locate the position if the brake bar rails. Once located, blacken them and nail to the beams. Next came the suspension springs. In order to get close to the actual curve I used the "actual size" diagram to form the curve. I put the "actual size" in quotes as I assume do to camera angles and what not, the pictures are not really actual size. I mentioned the earlier, the picture are close but in reality a little larger then actual size. But close enough in this case. After soaking the suspension springs, who says you can not every have enough clamps? Let it dry over night, and you have your suspension springs Paint them black, add the fitting on the ends. Not the fastening wires in the end of each spring. Instructions state they are the 10mm wire bent over and thru the spring. On the other side of the spring the end are soldered and sanded, and eventually painted black Below is the other side. The four wire ends have been soldered and sanded smooth. Just need to touch up the black paint.

Started working on the brake bar... For me, this proved to be more of a challenge that it should have been. Process starts out drilling two 1mm holes in a 2mm round bar. After measuring where the holes were to be places, I filed a flat spot to help the bit not to wander. Instructions talk about using a punch to also help steady the bit. I found that pretty hard to do. Even putting the bar in a vise, it just would not hold steady to take the punch. Instead I finally got the holes drilled by using a very slow speed on the drill and a stead hand. By slowly drilling the hole it was easier to get the bit not to wander and start the hole. Once the hole was started, with steady pressure, bit when through. Secret here is take it slow Formed the brake bar into the correct position, and made the brake hooks cut from 1mm wire and soldered them into the brake bar then attached the brake lever onto the brake bar

Next add the metal (?) straps to the steering bars. As before I choose to make these out of card stock and paint them. and applied/painted to the steering bars. To me it really looks like metal and a whole lot easier to make. Start making the haul beams by blacking the fittings Trimming and forming the haul beams was relative simple with some sand paper and final assemble Applied to the steering bars building the brake system starting with the brake struts.. One hole in one end and two holes in the other end Add the struts to the brake bar.

Next came the rear axle. Start with the 9x9mm square wood and drill a 5mm hole in each end and insert the 5mm dowel. At the end of the 5mm dowel drill a 2mm hole and insert the 2mm dowel. Paint it up and put aside for later steps Started working on the steering struts When gluing the struts together, instructions call to make the gap 5.5mm in order for the haul bar (5.0m) to easily slide. Prior to gluing the struts together I temporarily inserted two of the brass strips to accommodate for the extra .5mm... Having done that, I am not sure that is necessary. In fact I wish I had not allowed for that extra space. Haul bar can still easily fit between the struts and can move around. I really hated to see the extra .5mm gap. In a later picture I will show the haul bar inserted and the gap showing - ugh Glued with the strips removed. In the below picture the three straps with the pins showing are all made of card stock and painted. The side clamps are the brass strips. As mentioned earlier, it really is hard to tell the difference and the card stock is a whole lot easier to work with. Next came the haul bar - again card stock instead of the suggested blacked brass. Attach the steering struts to the front wheel bracket. This calls for slitting the front wheel bracket and laying in the steering struts so the lay flush. Lay the steering struts on to of the front wheel bracket 45mm back from the haul bar. This is where the steering struts should be inserted into the haul bar. You can also use the full diagram to help with the placement. Make some lines on each side of the front wheel bracket and start cutting. After some cutting, filing, and sanding the struts should lay even in the front wheel bracket. Below shows the two parts about to be joined, And all assembled

Starting to assemble the beams and suspension stabilizers. I am assuming that it will be imperative to insure this structure is perfectly square (or as perfect as I can get it at my still level). There weights seemed to do the trick Resulting in a "fairly" straight suspension

Next step was to create clefts in the beams and in the suspension stabilizers. Instructions call to use a fine hack saw, with clamps and steel ruler. Clamp the pieces and then using the saw make the clefts. Here is where my lack of skill started to show up. Making a straight cleft in the suspension stabilizers was pretty easy as those part are wide, but making a straight cleft in the three beams, for me anyway, was really hard. First off the beams are very narrow so there is not much for the metal ruler to grab on to. As such when I started the saw cuts the beam would tend to move on me. Also, in my case, the beams were not perfectly straight. There was an ever to small bend to them. Had to look really close to see the bend, but it was there. End result, while the saw cut was in the middle of the strip at both ends, the slight bend in the middle ended up with the cleft off center. It looked horrible. Had to go through the process of soaking and straightening out the strips. Below you see my attempt at clamping the thin strips. I ended up using the sticking side of duct tape to help hold the stirp in place as I made the cut. Unless you really are confident in making these cleft cuts, I would suggest getting of additional 3/16" strips (closest to 5mm) and practice, practice, practice before you make the attempt on the real wood. I did not think this would be a hard task and I ended up wrecking the 3 pieces of mahogany supplied with the kit. At that point I acquired the additional 3/16" strips for practice and eventual strips. Dumb you get early Smart you get late 🙂 Also, it mentions using a fine backsaw. I would suggest starting with a fine backsaw, but the eventual cleft will be "too fine". For the cleft to show up better it is best to follow up the fine backsaw line with a thicker saw resulting is a thicker cleft. Again, unless your wood is perfectly straight and you are really confident in making the cleft lines..... practice practice practice Four strips of supplied mahogany Resulting clefts in the beams and suspension stabilizers - after a lot of cursing and 'redo's After painting them yellow

Here is my two cents.... I vote not to paint it. I build the Endeavour, and like your model the hull looked great. And to me, too great to paint... even the bottom. I know the hard core realists and going to cringe, but I really like the look of natural wood planking. But as they say, the only one you have to please is yourself (and of course CEO), so whatever you decide I am sure will look fantastic

For the wheel treads, instructions talk about using 1x5mm wood strips and wrap them around the outside of the rims. Problem is (and again it may just be my model) the wheel rims are about 5.5mm wide. So the 5mm strips will show a little gap. Instead I used black card stock paper (doubled over) and painted it will black gun stock paint. Looked pretty good in the end and was pretty easy. Started with card stock paper and made three deep lines with a pen. 3mm, 6mm, 3mm Folded up the paper on the lines and glued them together, resulting is a 6mm strip twice the thickness of the paper Folded it over and turned over so the seam will be on the underside, glued it to the outside of the rim, and painted it black. Looked pretty much like a black metal rim Instructions then call to cut two 54mm pieces and two 45mm pieces out of the 4mm brass strips to be used for the interior axle housings. Eventually these will be painted black. In my experience (and I am little more than a novice at model building) I hate painting brass. Even after using an etching primer followed by paint, while the result initially looks good, it does not take much handling (like actually installing the piece), for little pieces of the paint to fleck off. Based on my experience with the black cardstock on the rims, I decided to use this method on the axle housings. While the instructions call for two 54mm pieces and two 45mm pieces of brass, in my model the axle housings were actually 60mm and 47mm. The width of these axle housings on my model were actually 5mm instead of 4mm. Before you cut these pieces, either out of brass or card stock, verify the proper length... and maybe a little longer.... You can always shorten them. In this case, same as before. Line out 3mm, 6mm, 6mm lines, fold on the lines to make one strip and paint black with gun stock paint. From here you can cut the required strips for the axle housing. Happy with the end result and a whole lit easier than working with brass strips Next step is to add all the pins on both sides of each spoke - a total of 192 pins.... Since the pins are 5mm in length and the wheel is 5mm in depth, all 192 pins need to be cut in 1/2 - preferably a little shorter or the pins from each side of the wheel will hit each other. Just cutting these pins in half is a long frustrating task... pins are so small, and to cut them in half takes some real patience. After that you need to drill .5mm holes through each wheel for each pin. I would not suggest doing this with a pin vise. There is just no way to drill that many straight lines with a pin vise, and if the holes are not straight, the wholes on the other side will not look very good. In my case I used a dremel workstation to drill the holes. Instructions called for a .5mm bit, but I found a .7mm bit fits the nails better. Also I used a special pliers made for holding pins. Between the jaws are a little hole to hold the pin. Trying to hold these small pins and drive them into the holes would be very hard with a tweezers or needle hose pliers. Here is the one I have Not really in focus, but you can kinda see the hold to hold the pin in each jaw After several long tedious sessions, all the pins were inserted on both sides of each wheel I am really glad the wheels are finally completed..

I decided to take a break from ship building and try a "non-ship". In this case I selected the "Stage Coach 1848" from Artesania Latina. I choose this one over other stagecoaches do to it's 1/10 scale. A little bigger than the other stagecoaches and I (having fat fingers) I like the larger scale models. For those of you that want to follow along, this will be a very slow build. It will get completed, but I am not a very active model builder. I work on them as time permits, so it is going to take some time. I would suggest checking back every 2-3 weeks or so for an update. Starting in, the first step is to build the four wheels. More or less a pretty straight forward task. Assemble the wheel rings - four pieces each In order to add the spokes, it mentions to use the "full size" diagrams to place the spokes. Problem is, and this just be the diagrams in my particular model, the full size diagrams are not entirely accurate as to the spoke placement. Notice in the two pictures below the spacing between some of the spokes are not the same. So if you lay the spokes via the diagram, the spaces between spokes will not be accurate. The spokes are made from 4x4mm strips flattened (by sanding) on two of the sides and then cut into 69mm lengths (for the large wheels) and 48mm lengths (for the smaller wheels). The spacing between most of the spokes are the same, so by using a compass, it is easy enough to find a correct size that will go all around the wheel. Once you know the accurate space between spokes it is easy enough to go around the wheels and mark where each spoke is to connect to the rim. For easiest spoke placement, I would suggest cutting a circular hole in a piece of 1" board to insert the wheel axle. From there the spokes will lie flat on the board and can easily be glued into the axle and onto the wheel rim To insure each spoke is the exact same length, use a stop on the saw box. It will save a lot of time and insure each spoke is the proper length Adding the spokes to the smaller wheels and to the larger wheels end results prior to painting After a little primer After paint and before adding the trim

Thanks for all you comments...I appreciate them. For anyone who thinks they may be interested in the model, I highly recommend it. It was fun and I learned a lot along the way. For those of you who would like to make the Chaperon and have it look more like the real ship,, I have included a couple links Brian (mbp01) sent me on the Chaperon. One link is a series of photos on the ship and other is a 3D Virtual Walk through. The 3D Virtual Walk through is especially neat as you can take a virtual walk through most of the ship. By the way, if you have not seen it, take a look at Brian's (mbp01) log on his build of the Chaperon. It is truly museum quality work. Anyway... have fun and hope future Chaperon builders will find this log helpful....if nothing else, show you how not make some of my mistakes. 🙂 3D Virtual Walk through https://www.jensmittelbach.de/steamboats/chaperon/index.html Chaperon Photos https://search.library.wisc.edu/search/digital?q=chaperon&filter[facets][collections_facet~Historic+Steamboat+Photographs]=yes