abelson

Thanks. The issue is how to knot the ropes so that the knots are evenly spaced on the foot ropes. From other builds, it looks like there are about 6 knots each side on the bowsprit.

Made a little progress in the last few days. Seized the bowsprit shrouds to the deadeyes, lashed them to hooks, and attached them to eyes in the main wale. Seized the bob stay at the upper end to the deadeyes and at the lower end to a hole in the stem knee. Seized the fore tack bumpkin stays to an eye in the stem knee. Added 3/16” SB to each bumpkin for the fore tacks. Note: the fore tacks P&S are not shown on the rigging plan. I looked back at the Rattlesnake rigging plan (my first build) which depicts the fore tack, fore sheet, and clew garnet and the 3-block assembly required for this (see attached). Chuck Passaro’s MS Brig Syren Prototype Build Log has a nice detail of the block assembly. The FA rigging plan does show a single block on the fore lower yard and on the main lower yard which I believe is the for the clew garnet. The fore sheet attaches to an eye on the ship side, passes through the clew block, through a sheave in the bulwark (shown on the rigging plan) and is belayed to a large cleat (shown on plan sheets 1 and 4). I’m getting ahead of myself here but, going forward, I think I’ll use the Rattlesnake rigging plan because it’s much more detailed. I forgot the sheave in the bulwark. If I’m going to add the fore sheets, then I’ll need to fit the sheaves – I need to give more thought to this. Also., the FA rigging plan doesn’t show the bowsprit and boom foot ropes. I’m not sure how to fashion them and haven’t found any discussion on them. Next up? I might tackle (no pun intended) the bowsprit horses and netting.

Thanks.

Continuing the build, after seeing wooldings and reading discussions on them on other build logs, I decided to add them to the fore mast. Note: Wooldings are not discussed in the FA instruction manual nor shown on the drawings. I located the bottom woolding just above the heart for the main preventer stay. The remaining wooldings are spaced 4 feet apart. I used 1mm black nylon for the wooldings and wrapped each one 10 times. I didn’t use hoops above and below the wooldings because they were not common until the 1800s. I found the attached diagram very helpful, and it worked well for securing the wooldings. Next, I added a 5/32” heart to the fore mast for the main preventer stay. Spent considerable time studying the rigging plan, instruction manual, and build logs before assembling the bowsprit and jib boom – this is of paramount importance. Fashioned the bowsprit heart and collar and attached it to the bowsprit as depicted in Detail N on the rigging plan. I made the shroud collar and bob stay collar with 5/32” deadeyes as depicted in Detail D and attached them to the bowsprit. Added 1/8” single blocks (SB) to the bowsprit cap for the sprit sail yard lifts and the jib stay. Added a 1/8” SB to the jib boom for the fore gallant stay, Fashioned the jib stay traveler from 20-gauge wire. Attached the jib boom to the bowsprit. Glued the bowsprit in-place and secured it with gammoning. Waxed 0.55mm cordage and seized and eye at one end. Passed the other cut end through the eye and then rove it through the gammon hole in the beak head as illustrated in Fig. 27 in the instruction manual. Fashioned some cargo hooks from 1/16" eyebolts and spray painted them black - I'll need more of these. I plan to use them to hook the shrouds to the futtock plates as well. Moved on to the fore and main tops. Fashioned the deadeye futtock plates from 20-gauge wire. Note: the #439 strap rings shown in Fig.33B do not come with the kit and are no longer available from MS. I used needle nose pliers to strap the deadeyes and create and eye for the futtocks hooks. I formed the strap such that the cut ends fell in the middle of the strap. I didn’t solder them because the ends are not visible when inserted in the main and fore tops. I did file them flat, however. Completed the main lower yard, main topsail yard, main topgallant yard, fore lower yard, fore topsail yard, spritsail yard, fore topgallant yard, main gaff, and main boom. For the main and fore lower yards, the 3/16” dowels aren’t big enough to create the 8-sided effect without using the built-up method in Fig. 22. I couldn’t accomplish the profile of the yards as depicted on Plan Sheet 2 using the built-up method, but I’m satisfied with how they turned out anyway. In hindsight, I would have used a larger diameter dowel and created the octagonal effect by filing instead of the built-up method. I fashioned the sling cleats from 3/16” x 3/32” wood strips. I traced the pattern from Sheet 2 and used a razor saw to carefully cut out the image. With some filing, I had one cleat to the general configuration shown on Sheet 2. I used this cleat as a template to create the rest of the cleats. The sling cleats for the topgallant yards and the main gaff, though not as ornate, are small and difficult to fashion. I made them slightly larger then depicted on Sheet 2. I attached the cleats with wood glue and later added a drop of CA adhesive to secure them. Securing the cleats with CA makes it easier to file them without fear of breaking them after they’ve been installed. The yards, main gaff, and boom were primed and painted black in keeping with the FA color scheme. I fashioned the boom goose neck and eyebolt from 20-gauge wire. The eyebolt is attached to the main mast as depicted on Sheet 2. Note: The rigging plan shows bent irons at the ends of the main and lower yards. These are for stunsail booms, which are not discussed nor depicted on the plans. I discovered these from other build logs. I’m planning to add them to my build. Chuck Passaro's Syren build log has a good discussion on how to fashion the stunsail boom irons. He recommends drilling holes for the boom irons into the end of the yards before you start tapering them as there is less of a chance of splitting yards. I was able to drill the holes after the tapering the yards without splitting them, fortunately. In hindsight, would follow Chuck’s lead. I found that there are enough 1/8” dowels to fashion the stunsail booms - I'll do this at a later date. Returning to the mast tops, I added the 1/8” blocks to the fore top for the sprite sail yard braces and to the main top for fore lower yard braces. I added to the fore mast the lead block (1/4”) for the main topmast stay and 1/8” blocks for the main top braces. To the main mast, I added blocks (3/16”) for the main boom topping lifts and the main gaff peak halyard. To the fore mast, added 1/8" blocks for the main lower yard braces. Next up? Probably the bowsprit shrouds, fore tack boomkin guys and the bob stay.

Thank you. I try to impart a little practical experience. I’m not an expert by any means, but I do recognize shortcomings in plans and instructions. It’s my engineering background. I’m glad my buildlog is helpful. Stay tuned for more.

After a week on vacation, I’m back on the model. I read and studied more build logs and realized that, although I’m not an expert by any means, IMO, some aspects of my build are as good if not better than those of more experienced modelers - just saying. This is reassuring, as the goal for my current build is to be at least as good or better than my first build (45 years ago). I’m now about 5 months into the build. So far so good, but the more difficult part (the rigging) is yet to come. You can never study and research enough. I’ve made mistakes, which will only be noticeable to an expert eye. I realize the errors of my ways and accept my imperfections - I'm not aiming for museum quality. As for progress, I completed the fore topmast, fore topgallant mast, topgallant, and topgallant mast truck. I primed and painted the bowsprit and jib boom, the main and fore masts, the main and fore top masts, the main and fore tops, trestletrees, and caps, and the topgallant mast in the black and umber scheme. Returning to the cannons, completed rigging the cannons – phew, glad that’s done. I decided to add the coils as I completed the cannons. I snipped the 0.3 mm manila hemp tackle line and left a short piece which I glued to the deck. When I assembled the tackle lines originally, I used a 6-inch length of hemp for each tackle line. After it was snipped, I found the remaining length was ample for forming the coils. l ran the remaining line through bees wax, coiled it around a 1/8” dowel, and then flattened it out somewhat. Each coil was glued to the deck with a dab of wood glue. I’ve added the deck fittings temporarily just to see how everything looks. Next up, the mast yards.

Progress update: Except for painting and adding eyebolts to the cap, completed the bowsprit and jib boom. The bowsprit gammoning cleats were made from walnut cleats, cut and trimmed to scale. I traced the image of the bees on Sheet 2 onto wax paper and transferred the image to scrap wood by using a pointer to mark the outline in the wood. I connected the darts with a pencil and then cut the shape with a coping saw – I’m pleased with it. Completed the main topmast, topgallant mast and topgallant. The Fair American kit parts list says to use 5/32” dowels for the fore and top masts and 3/16” for the fore and main yards. The fore and main top mast caps have a 3/16” diameter opening. Consequently, when the 5/32” dowels are filed and sanded to the proportions shown on Sheet 2, they look too small for the cap opening. I think 3/16” dowels would be a better choice. I ended up making the main mast cap from scrap wood so that the fore mast fits tighter. Also, the castings for the small mast caps have a 3/16” square opening which is too big for the 5/32” dowels if used for the fore and top masts. I made these from scrap wood as well. I made the topgallant trestle trees from 3/16” stock, and the crosstrees from 5/32” stock. The FA parts list doesn’t indicate what size strips are to be used for trestletrees and crosstrees. I took the advice of Chuck Passaro's Syren build log and drilled the holes in the crosstress before fabricating them. Sheet 2 doesn’t show an end view of the topgallant trestletrees. I assumed, therefore, that the trestletrees are shaped like the main and fore top trestletress. I need to add the cap eyebolts and the topgallant mast truck. Next up, the fore topmast, fore topgallant mast, and topgallant.

I found beeswax works well.

Thanks. I’ll check it out.

Does anyone know a fittings supplier other than Model Shipways and Syren Ship Model Company?

Completed rigging another cannon. Added the breech lines to the remaining 12 cannons and completed the outhaul tackle lines off the cannon. Decided to take a break from rigging to make a display board. I had a piece of 1” select maple from a home improvements project that I cut to 5 ½” x 20”. I pre-drilled holes for brass display pedestals. I chamfered the edges, sanded it, and applied 2 coats of Minwax PolyShades Stain & Polyurethane gloss Bombay Mahogany and one finish coat of polyurethane, and mounted the model. While waiting for an MS fittings order, I focused my attention on building the main and fore tops. The kit includes laser cut tops. The Instruction Manual says “you will find they require detailing” but it doesn’t say where you can find the detailing. The plans don’t show details of the top of the tops. I found some other build logs that had photos of detailed main and fore tops, so I mimicked a fellow builder. PS, I discovered Chuck Passaro-MS Brig Syren Prototype Build which details the tops. Passaro's build has a wealth of information. The topmast crosstrees and trestletrees where built from scrap timber. Note: The Instruction Manual says the trestletrees are laser cut, but the kit does not include laser cut trestletrees. I glued the crosstrees to the tops. The trestletrees will be glued later whence top and fore masts have been built. Squared and beveled the main mast and fore mast, flattened the sides for the bibbs, and created the tenon for the cap as depicted on Sheet 2. Using the squared section of the masts as a guide, I glued the trestletrees to the main and fore mast tops and added chocks and bolsters. With the tops in temporary position, I glued the bibbs to the masts. Next, I drilled holes in the mast cleats and temporarily installed the cleats for effect. I plan to paint the masts black above the bibb and burnt umber below the bibbs. Next up, the bowsprit.

Continuing the discussion on rigging the cannons, I completed rigging one cannon – looks good IMO. I followed the arrangement of the breeching and out haul tackle eyebolts in Fig, 20. I notice some build logs reversed the arrangement of the breech line and tackle line eyebolts. I found the arrangement in Fig. 20 gives you more room for attaching lines. With the carriage and attached gun barrel off the model, I seized one end of breech line to eyebolt, snaked breach line through split rings on carriage, wrapped it around the end of the cannon, and seized the other end of breech line to eyebolt. With the carriage on the model, I glued the breech line eyebolts into pre-drilled holes in the bulwark (I had to exercise care in drilling the holes so as not to penetrate the bulwark). Without gluing the carriage to the deck, I attached the out haul tackle to the carriage eye bolt and the bulwark eyebolt and then tightened the lines. The strop wire hooks on the tackle blocks made it fairly easy, though tricky, to attach the blocks to the eyebolts. The tackle lines will be trimmed and glued to the deck, and coils made and glued at the end of the line – not sure whether I will do this as the work progresses or after all the carriages have been rigged. One thing I discovered, in following the plans, there isn’t sufficient space between the cabin face and the aft gun ports (see photo). I lost a little space when I added panels to the cabin face, which I didn’t account for. In hindsight, I wish that I had read some build logs before I framed the gun ports, as many builders recognized this and made adjustments in their build. Oh well, chalk it up to experience. It will be difficult to rig the aft cannons. FYI, I followed the recommendation of another build log and applied a dab of 50/50 mix of wood glue and water to the end of the tackle line, which prevents the line from unraveling and facilitates threading the line trough the blocks.

Thanks.

Thanks for the info.

Fantastic model. It shows your talent, experience and knowledge. What are the dimensions of the display board? The FA instruction manual says it should be as long as the overall length of the model.

Getting back to rigging the cannons. I purchased 26 gauge black copper at Michael's – it’s more flexibile than 20 gauge that came with the kit. I bent the wire around the single blocks and twisted the wire using flat nose pliers, and then formed a hook at one end using needle nose pliers with round ends. I found that there was enough space at the opposite end of the block to pass 0.3 mm manila hemp tackle line between the block and the wire. I passed the tackle line through bees wax to make it more pliable to work with. Next, I tied the tackle line to the single block which will be attached to the eyelet on the cannon. I followed the same procedure for the double blocks which will be attached to an eyelet on the inboard bulwark. Note: I used double blocks as shown in Figure 20 in the Instruction Manual, but I have read where some modelers have said double blocks are not correct. The tackle line was weaved through the blocks by hand – a tedious job. Reaming the block holes helps in passing the line through. Even with bees wax, the line tends to unravel when it passes through the block. The cleaner the cut at the end of the line, the easier it is to pass through the blocks. A thought I could use a small sewing needle but it’s too difficult to thread the 0.3 mm hemp. So far, four tackle lines complete. The tackle lines look a little sloppy. I'm hoping that they'll look better when rigged on the cannons.

Progress update: Finished all fourteen cannons, except for some eyelets. I decided to replace the #412 (3/16”) belaying pins for the quoins with a larger 5/16” belaying pins. The larger pins look more to scale. Spray painted the gun barrels and the anchors with matte black paint. Decided that I will rig the cannons – purchased additional 3/32” single and double blocks, and cordage, from Model Expo. The 3/32” blocks are very small and difficult to work with, so I used 1/8” walnut single and double blocks instead. I’m holding off on gluing the various inboard fittings until cannon rigging is complete. I painted the capstan and drilled the hole in the deck plank to mount the capstan and added the pawls. I noticed the capstan in the main deck photo on page 42 of the Instruction Manual is quite detailed. I haven’t seen this detail on any member build logs. I’m curious what other modelers have done with the capstan and where I can find details. Added panels to front of quarter deck cabin. Completed the steering wheel. I flopped the position of the steering wheel and the standard because I think it looks better. It’s not authentic, but I like it anyway. Also, added the decorative trim to the stern transom. Painted the trim and the edge of the fancy cap with gold glit. Even though the windows are not in the correct position I’m happy with the way the transom came out. Holding off on Installing the rudder. At this point, I’m about 16 weeks into the build.

Jerry, where did you find the detail for the ships wheel mechanism? This is not detailed on the MS plan sheets. I'd like to add this detail to my build.

I've notice on some FA build logs that modelers have detailed the ships wheel. Can anyone offer advice, photos, details on how to create the authentic wheel mechanism?

Thanks for the explanation and drawing. That clarifies it. The pawls will be an easy add-on.

Thanks, Mark. Here's a picture of the capstan pawl from the plans. I have no idea what this is or looks like. I'm thinking of just leaving it off the build.

To Fair American modelers, the MS kit doesn’t include pawls fittings, and the plans don’t detail them. I’d like to know what other modelers have done to create them. What is the best material to use for eyebolts and padeyes, and what’s the best way to form these? Also, page 42 of the Fair American instruction manual shows a very detailed capstan. The plans don't detail this and I've not seen this on other builds. Where can I find capstan details?

Thanks, Dave. I've been using the kit brass strips. You're right, it is difficult to shape them because they're so small. Nonetheless, I'm continuing with them. I'd like to know what other modelers have used. Did you use the kit eyebolts for the gun carriage? They look larger in your photo.

Dave, what did you use for the cannon straps?

Decided to concentrate on the guns. I pre-assembled all of carriages. This was a mistake, as I found that the axles are fragile and easily break-off when you try to mount the wheels. The axles are also square and need to be rounded to fit the wheels and to give it an authentic look. I made a prototype. I cut-off the axles and replaced them with tooth picks of the proper length for an authentic look when the wheels are attached. I made the transom, quoin bed and quoin from scrap material. The quoins are small and tedious. I used a #412 belaying pin – I think it looks out of scale. The transoms aren’t really necessary because you don’t see them when the guns are in-place but, for authenticity, I decided to incorporate them. The eyebolts for the gun carriage look too small. I haven’t decided whether to add them. Painting the guns is tedious. I painted the wheels before punching them out. In hindsight, I wish I had done the same with the gun carriages. I’m contemplating spray painting the guns. Not sure if I’ll add the gun straps, yet. I'm satisfied with the prototype – only 13 more to go. Yaks!