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Capt. Kelso

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Posts posted by Capt. Kelso

  1. When building the base I wanted to try a different type of weathering technique to show wear and tear. Instead of the traditional use of washes and dry brushing, use sandpaper. Following the planking pattern of the Dunton, I glued basswood strips. Before gluing I ran a dark grey artist pencil along the edges to simulate caulking. Once trimmed and sanded, applied a coat of Oak Stain, then airbrushed a couple of coats of grey enamel. I decided to apply a light wash of watercolor dark grey to enhance the detail. When dried, started very lightly rubbing with sandpaper to simulate wear.

    Finished the boat cradle/"kids" (can't confirm the correct terminology or design), added some detail, nuts/bolts, which are from Grandt Line. They offer railroad model detail parts such as lift rings, hinges, nuts, etc. which can also be used for ship modeling. Painted the cradle a toned down white, wash of watercolor dark grey, some rust stains.

     

    Started scratch building the gear'

     


     

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  2. Started this build approximately six weeks ago, it's my first build log. As a volunteer at Mystic Seaport Museum, I regularly pass a Dory exhibit and I thought it would make an interesting subject for a Diorama. My original thought was to recreate the scene in the photo, the boat tied to the dock. However, my biggest concern was modelling the water. If I mess that up, the project fails! Another option I considered was to build a scene of a Dory on a Schooner. So, that's my plan.

     

    Decided the base would be a section of deck, the last Dory being prepared for launch from the L. A. Dunton Gloucester Fishing Schooner, circa 1923 (currently undergoing full restoration at Mystic Seaport Museum) for daily fishing. The Dunton carried 10 Dory's stacked five high, port and starboard. She had a crew of 24, Captain, 3 crew, and 20 fisherman (2 per Dory).

    Dories could carry several tubs of longline trawl that would be set away from the schooner. Each tub could carry as much as 1,800 feet of line with a hook every fathom, or six feet. If a commercially viable fish was found on 50 of those three hundred hooks it was considered a decent haul. Dory's were painted a buff color which would show up in the fog and in bright sunlight, the same color the spars on the mother ship would carry and the dory might have a small rope on the bung, should the boat overturn.

     

    There's lots of small detail that can be added, line tubs, dory fog horn, trawl anchor, trawl buoy, bailer's, sail, etc... Fortunately, I found some 1/24 scale figures I think I can modify.


    To start with, build the Dory! The Kit is the Model Shipways Lowell Banks Dory, "a beginner kit is not just for beginners"! No need to document the build, there are many Dory Build logs. So, fast forward, after few minor kit modifications, base painting, I started the weathering is a work in process in process.

    I mixed my own batch of base colors using enamel paints. For washes I use "only" watercolor paints". Not acrylic paints. Watercolor paints are much more forgiving, if you make a mistake, just wipe off with a damp cloth or paint brush. I never weathered a ship model; I'm having fun with this! Some dark grey wash, dry brushing and paint chipping, the detail starts to develop.

     

     

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  3. Over the past five years I purchased 3 old Marine Model kits and one Bluejacket kit. Aside from the expected aging of the plans, the Hulls were in good shape and I have not noticed any deterioration of the fittings. However, the common theme with all of them was the quality of wood strips, decking, and sheet wood. In every kit the wood was dried out and brittle. The dowels looked OK. So, I tossed the bad stuff, didn't even add it to my scrape collection, and ordered new wood. 

     

     

  4. Dunton plans are available from the Mystic Ships Plan Store (Ships Plans Store | Mystic Seaport Ships Plans), 5 sheets, 1/4" Scale. Oddly enough the closest comparable Schooner is the "Ellsie". 

    I have considered building a Dunton, thought of converting a kit on the market. However, there's nothing close to its profile in 1/4" scale, basically I would have to scratch build. Just not up to the task right now. At present I am aware of only two Dunton models, one by Tom Lauria, Fishing Schooner, L.A. Dunton – Model Ships & Boats by (tjlauria.com) and one contracted by Mystic Museum. Tom Lauria used the Seaport Plans plus many trips to Mystic to research measurements and details.

    A fellow Seaport Volunteer built a half hull model using the plans. We both worked on the Dunton removing ceiling planks!

    Thanks for the link

     

     

  5. I've attached some copies of planking plans for the L.A. Dunton Gloucester Fishing Schooner undergoing restoration at Mystic Seaport Museum, Mystic, Ct. These are actual reference documents. The Dunton was launched in 1923 and representative of the Gloucester Schooners of that period. She carried ten Dory's and a crew of 24 (20 fisherman and 4 crew).  It's very close in size to Bluenose and may share many of the construction techniques, haven't researched the Bluenose. Of particular interest is the tapering of bow planks and use of stealer planks near the stern. The "devil is in the detail". 20231213_082630.thumb.jpg.91da51068fef3226c7fdf8b1a60e65fe.jpg

     

    I compared these drawings to the Model Shipways Benjamin Latham plans and they are a close match. Included a few pictures from inside the hull, the ceiling planks which have been removed were red oak, 4" x 12"

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  6. Welcome. If you are new to wooden ship modelling, especially planking, a couple of quick suggestions. The NRG Store offers a 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit (click on the NRG tab above). This kit provides step by step instructions to include tips on calculating and spacing planks. Also, Model Shipways Shipwright Series has excellent kits, there are numerous postings on this site regarding the Dory.

     

    Regarding the Marine Models Viking Kit, it was either first released in 1966 or 1967. I have a copy the 67 Catalog (yes, I have been around a long time) and it is the first kit listed, $17.50. I built this kit and planked it many years ago. While I have planked numerous solid hulls, this one was a particular challenge. Trying to replicate the curved planking on the bow and stern was a tedious task, couldn't use basswood strips, had to use a sheet of basswood and French curve template. And, as with any solid hull kit, thinning the bulwarks requires patience.

     

    Good luck with your projects, this site is a good place to get feedback and tips.

  7. Nick, I'm not a fan of acrylic paints but have had to adjust to using them. I have used Model Expo paints and thinned them using both Tamiya Acrylic thinner and my homemade thinner. My homemade brew is just as good as Tamiya and less expensive in the long run. I learned how to make my own surfing YouTube and various modeling sites. I settled on a mixture found in Cybermodeler Online, Tech Tip: Make Your Own Acrylic Thinner (cybermodeler.com). There are four ingredients, Distilled water, Isopropyl Alcohol, Acrylic Flow Improver and Acrylic Fluid Retarder. Windex works great as a cleaner. You can find the Fluid Retarder, Flow Improver at Arts and Crafts Stores or Walmart. Actually, I found everything at my local Walmart.

     

    I make about 12oz in a plastic squeeze bottle when needed, it's great for thinning and cleaning the airbrush. I found when airbrushing acrylics add a couple of extra drops of Retarder to the paint cup.

    Model Expo paint out of the jar is thick and requires a lot of thinner. Every time I use acrylics there is a trial-and-error process to get the correct flow. Just takes practice.

     

     

  8. Here's a photo of Cutting in Tackle from Tom Lauria's Kate Cory build (  Whaling Brig Kate Cory – Model Ships & Boats by (tjlauria.com). I'm currently working on a KC build and have a copy of the plans from The New Bedford Whaling Museum. Sheet 8 contains a diagram of the Blubber Hook while Sheet 5 references Cutting Tackle Guys. 

     

    As for the Morgan, this link will take you to the Model Shipways Instruction Manual, go to page 35 and 38 which has detail on the Cutting Tackle.

     https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=92ce4c441e4d8653JmltdHM9MTY4OTgxMTIwMCZpZ3VpZD0yMGFmN2FhZC1mYTE5LTY3ZTgtMjVhNS02ODRkZmIzOTY2OTMmaW5zaWQ9NTI0MQ&ptn=3&hsh=3&fclid=20af7aad-fa19-67e8-25a5-684dfb396693&psq=model+shipways+charles+w+morgan+manual&u=a1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubWljcm9tYXJrLmNvbS9JbnN0cnVjdGlvbnMvODgwNDgtbW9kZWwtc2hpcHdheXMtY2hhcmxlcy1tb3JnYW4taW5zdHJ1Y3Rpb25zLnBkZg&ntb=1

     

    Hope this helps.

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