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iMustBeCrazy

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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy

  1. Well, after chasing my tail around and around and around (that curve at the wale shown in post 52 can't exist) I think I'm going to have to build the stern in PoB to see what's happening. I know the outer counter timber is a straight piece of wood with a kink in it, probably leaning over towards the centreline so that the 'elbow' sticks out a bit but in 2D it's not easy to visualise and harder to draw. No wonder they didn't do detailed drawings. Anyway, comments, suggestions please, I haven't done this before. This will be a fairly rough mock-up for my needs, but I still want the drawings to be useful to others. Starting with the keel, bulkheads/moulds when I have done them.
  2. Thanks Tony. I think it was brunch. The same bird once caught and devoured a whole rabbit! Admittedly it was a small rabbit but still several times the size of a mouse. Afterwards it could only fly 50 metres between rests. I've been having a break on the drawings as my eyes are going rectangular what with computers, books and TV. Hope to get outside again soon if the weather moderates. Old man winter seems to have arrived early.
  3. I'm still redrawing things, this will continue long past the learning curve. This will be a long job. The sooner others point out errors the less you have to redo. Everything is inter-related, moving one point may mean moving many others. Also when you're happy with something, lock it from editing. You can always unlock it later.
  4. I would say "it depends". If you are trying to duplicate the original then duplicate the original line weights. If you are trying to create a pretty picture then use the line weight that you think looks best. If you are trying to produce a plan to use as templates then choose a narrower line that is still dark enough when printed. But don't get hung up on line weights at the moment, it's better to get them in the right place first, you can change them later. See my Lapwing thread, I'm using all colours and weights so I can more easily see and differentiate the lines. Drawing a thin black line over a thicker black line makes it hard to see what you've done. As I finalise them I'll reduce the number of colours and line weights to suit a nice print.
  5. First, a small distraction. This morning turned out sunny despite the forecast so I snuck out down to the park for a little exercise and photography. When I got back I modified my balsa mock-up of the stern/counter. It's rough but I think it works.
  6. Thanks Bob, I saw Fukui's post just after wrote the above. It's a possibility but I'll have to draw it to see how it looks.
  7. Well, it took two days just to draw the counter timbers and I've just moved one two inches so it now has to be totally redrawn. So I've been trying to understand the yellow area in the drawing below. The 'trim piece' is shown on the sail plan of the Lapwing (Danish archive) and the Nightingale. It probably extends out to the dotted line and maybe more, framing the planking. The stern rail must blend into it somewhere somehow. But the question is, what is the structure, how is it supported? It doesn't seem to overlap the counter timber enough to be fixed to it. Can anyone point me to anything that might help? Or point out anything I may have misinterpreted from the drawing?
  8. These days, factory produced mdf sheets come with four very square corners and four very straight sides. Even the smaller sheets. To make the above shooting board, cut two rectangles from mdf each with 1 square corner and two straight edges (1 long and 1 short) stack and clamp the pieces aligning the long edges with the top piece set down from the top edge of the bottom piece. Fix a fix a stop piece across the top of the bottom piece using the top piece to keep it square. Unclamp. The bottom should now have a stop which is square to it's long edge. Sounds really confusing but actually very easy once you grasp the idea.
  9. 3D Transom (MDF): Note that when making any part from the drawings you must make sure that the part is drawn 'square on', those that aren't such as the transom, counter, cant frames etc. need to be corrected. For example the transom viewed from the stern appears to be 49 inches high but as shown is is actually 52 inches. To correct this, the drawing from the stern needs to be stretched vertically by 52/49ths (1.0612244). Also you need to allow for any bevelling which may not be shown. In this case, the fashion pieces are wider on the forward side and the bevel is shown on the corrected drawing. Yes, I forgot the bevel the first time.
  10. Thanks druxey, currently 8 inches, probably only need 4 or 5. I guess for even spacing top and bottom. I'll fix them.
  11. Well, it doesn't help my headache but it certainly helps. For one thing it shows I forgot the fashion piece. Doh! Still need to rework the side counter timbers and perhaps the counter timbers:
  12. Thanks for those Bob, slowly piecing it together in my head but it's still mostly imagineering.
  13. Still going. Trying to work out the structure of the stern, very little info to work on. Any ideas? Any references? Re-did the frames to include decks, it will make life easier later. I wonder, what else am I missing.
  14. Work continues, Disposition of the Frame:
  15. Yes. And that cockroaches can be really hard to get rid of
  16. Some sketches of Bramble taken from Owen Stanley - Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake
  17. It's certainly not final but I should have pointed out that whereas the others are every second station, as usually depicted, that one is station 15, only a single step from the preceding station (14). It's a bit of a guesstimate to try to fill in the huge gap between station 14 and the transom. Same goes for the first station at the bow. If I could get out and buy some cardboard I would mock it up to get a better feel for the lines. But, thank you, all criticisms and suggestions gratefully accepted!
  18. G'day Tony, Actually, I didn't. I haven't delved very deeply into all the sisters, half-sisters, cousins and nieces, there's too many. Cutter then Schooner is the way I see it, the Cutter painting is dated 1840 and the sailplan 1841 so that works. I guess I will have to investigate Bramble further.
  19. I needed a break from staring at lines on a screen. Midship frame 1:24 in MDF. 1:24 is massive! 1:48 might be too fiddly for PoF for me, top timbers would be like matchsticks.
  20. Ok, new sheer plan based on the disposition of frames for Speedy (1828): Lots of work to go, all of these squares need to be filled (this is only stations D, B, 0, 2 and 4):
  21. Arrrrggggg!!!! Three steps backwards, after drawing up the frames at station 2 I remembered ZAZ6425 has two sets of station lines, then I realised that the sheer plan is based on station lines that have no relationship to frames. While this wouldn't matter for a PoB build I want these drawings to be able to be used for PoF. So I have to re-draw the station lines and sheer plan. Of course I don't have a table of offsets, but fortunately there is a shortcut I can take: By drawing a set of rectangles like the one in pink below, where points a and b are on the intersections of a station line and a reference line (in this case a water line) and point c touches the 45° degree line under the sheer plan, point d is the station line / water line intersection on the sheer plan. Unfortunately I don't have many reference lines on this drawing, basically just 4, so I have to base the shape of the 'frame' on those next to it.
  22. First they became a fence, did you notice the latitude of Macquarie Harbour? 42° South, that's roaring forties. You might like this one then, Port Arthur the main penal settlement. https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-1961910992/view?sectionId=nla.obj-1965082829&partId=nla.obj-1961946782#page/n26/mode/1up
  23. An account of Macquarie Harbour and Sarah Island: https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-1956722306/view?sectionId=nla.obj-1965094843&partId=nla.obj-1961882571#page/n40/mode/1up Continuation: https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-1956083842/view?sectionId=nla.obj-1959466639&partId=nla.obj-1956120316#page/n18/mode/1up
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