dunnock

Topgallant and royal backstays are added. I decided to follow Lees for the royal backstays who says that in small ships, the royal backstay ended in a thimble which was attached by a lanyard to a thimble and eyebolt in the stool. The main topgallant and royal stays lead through blocks on the fore topmast head and end in thimbles and lanyards hooked to the foremast top. I’ve delayed extending the length of Speedy for as long as possible but to complete the foremast stays I need to add the jib and while the bowsprit is still accessible I decided to add the spritsail yard. The spritsail sling is made from 0.45mm rope. An eye is spliced in one end, turned around the yard and seized to itself. The rope is led around bowsprit and yard, passes through the eye and turned back on itself. It is secured by a seizing. I made a jib traveller from some 0.7mm brass wire bent into a ring. A hook is added and the attachment for the outhaul is made from some 0.3mm copper wire. Finally the ring is closed with a spot of solder. The assembly is blackened although the copper wire didn’t take and was painted with iron black colour. With the traveller on the jib, it can be lashed to the bowsprit. I used 0.45 mm rope and gave it 6 turns finished with 4 binding turns. Next to add is the jibstay. The rigging plan says it is tied off to the bowsprit gammoning but for the moment I have tied it off to the starboard knighthead. With the jib secure I can fit the fore topgallant stay which has yet to be tied in with its lanyard There is already enough opportunity for me to catch protruding yards and masts so the royal stay will wait until the flying jib is added later. Thanks for looking in and for the likes David

I've had a few days in Dorset but before I went away I did make some further progress on the topsail yards and topgallant masts. The topsail ties consist of a long a 5mm block seized to a pendant. The standing end is spliced to the crosstrees and passes through one side of the double block on the yard, up through the 3mm block on opposite side and hangs just below the lower yard. A second 5mm block is spliced into a long strop and hooked to the aftermost eyebolt in the channels. I used 0.35mm rope for the falls which I thought looked better for scale than the 0.25 mm recommended in the plans. They are tied into the pendant block, run down to the block at the channels back up through the pendant block and belayed at the pin rack. I wasn’t sure whether the strop on the channel should run in front or behind the shrouds. I opted for behind which seems to give the cleanest line. They are tied into the pendant block, run down to the block at the channels back up through the pendant block and belayed at the pin rack. I wasn’t sure whether the strop on the channel should run in front or behind the shrouds. I opted for behind which seems to give the cleanest line. Before I can go any further with rigging the topsail yards, I add the topgallant masts which required some further preparation. The spans on the mast caps for the topsail yard lifts are more easily added off model. An eye is splice in each end of a long strop and clove-hitched around the cap. The topgallant lift blocks are also added. The block and thimbles for the main topgallant and royal stays are seized on long strops and spliced round the fore topmast head. With preparation complete the topgallant masts are fitted. The shrouds are made from 0.25mm rope. There is one pair on each side plus a swifter. For this single shroud which runs both port and starboard, a loop is spliced in to go over the mast. I’ve then added seizings over the splice to secure it. The instructions have the shrouds tied off at the deadeyes on the tops which concurs with Lees. However the book of 'The Brig Irene' says that the shrouds ended in a thimble and were connected by a lanyard to a thimble tied to the deadeye straps on the tops. I wonder was this a Dutch arrangement? I have gone for the simpler arrangement given by Lees and the plans. David

I’ve not had much time in the shipyard recently – I’ve been in Scotland for a week walking and got back to gardening and other household tasks, however I have finished the rigging on the lower yards for now. As expected the bitts are already looking quite crowded and it’s a bit of a fiddle getting the lines through the blocks under the tops. Chuck’s 3D printed blocks @Chuck are easy to thread, often without the need to stiffen the ends of the line with CA which making the task easier. I removed the grating from the forward hatch to make tying off easier. I’ve moved on to the topmast yards. These are pinned in but not glued. The parrels are made from the brass etched ribs but I’ve used some 2mm beads that have more of a barrel shape. I could only get them in a greeny-gold colour and the shapes are variable but as you can see there are plenty to select from. but they have painted up with Valejo matt black without a problem. The parrel ropes are 0.25mm line with an eye spliced in one end. Thanks for the likes and for looking in. David

I’ve been working on a few different parts to Speedy over the last 10 days or so, trying to get to a more ordered approach to the remaining rigging. First I decided it was time to finish rigging the remaining yards and spars. I have largely followed the plans but made rope (instead of brass PE) stirrups using 0.45mm rope. The horses are also made from 0.45mm. They look a bit untidy at the moment but this will be sorted out with some matt varnish and small weights at the end. Next I finished the boat cradles by adding 2mm pear strip cut from spare sheets to lift the boat above the hatch coamings. The boat is lashed to the cradles and is then removed while rigging proceeds. I have added the tackles to the main stay while access to the centre line is still relatively free. The tackle above the main hatch is made from a long block seized to 0.45mm pendant. The falls are 0.25mm with a single 3mm block and hook. The forward hatch tackle siezes directly to the stay and uses the same set up for the fall. They will belay to wherever is convenient when all the other ropes are in place. I made life difficult by not adding the long lift blocks before fitting the lower mast caps. Thankfully neither masts nor caps are glued so I was able to lift the caps off to make them more accessible. The blocks are seized to a long strop of 0.4mm and clove-hitched around the cap. Getting the length of the strops right takes a bit of fiddling and would have been better to have done it earlier before setting the topmasts. In a similar vein, I ought to have fitted the jeer blocks before now. Again it’s tricky getting the strops to the correct length. It’s made slightly easier by using false splices so the lengths of each part can be adjusted in situ before using a dab of CA to fix. The blocks hang from the cleats on the mast head crossing to the opposite side of the mast. With the lift and jeer blocks in place, I can continue adding the rigging that runs down the centre line. The jeers are first and I used 0.35mm rope, a little heavier than specified in the plan but nearer to the 2 ½” rope given by Steel. They are tied off at the bitts For the lifts I used 0.25mm rope spliced to the yard arm and then run through the blocks and down to the forward belay rack for each mast. I’m continuing with the leech and buntlines using 0.2mm line. Since I'm not adding sails, I have knotted the ends before threading them through the yard blocks. Threading the lines through the blocks under the tops is a fiddly job being so crowded together but after a few attempts I get there. When both sides of the yard are threaded I will run them down to be tied off once again at the bitts. Will there be enough room I wonder? Thanks for looking in and for the continuing likes and useful comments David

Thanks to all for the likes and to @Thukydides and @TBlack for comments and feedback. I've reworked the preventer stays, reducing the size of the mouse and using a fabric from a pair of tights to cover them which is less bulky than self-adhesive fabric strapping. I have used 0.45mm rope for the stay. I'm happier with the reworked preventer stays but now I'm not so sure about the stays. David

Hi Daniel, I have tried using fly-tying thread for siezings before but not for serving. I struggled with it because I couldn't control the static and the filaments were always flying apart. What is the meaning of the 10/0 specification? I'm not adding sails but I will add running rigging following references from Lees, Petersson and others ... including buntlines. As for where to belay them, on Diana they were tied off at the rails but from Chris's rigging plan, I think they attach at the bitts which will become pretty crowded so we shall see. David

Topmast Stays and Preventer Stays I made a mouse for each stay from some 2mm dowel first drilling a hole for the stay, shaping one end, cutting off 4mm from the dowel and then shaping the other end. The dowel is covered in fabric strapping. The stays are made from 0.45mm rope served to 20mm below the position of the mouse. The preventer stays are 0.35mm rope which I decided was too fine to serve. Once set up and on reflection, I think that the mouse is oversized and it may have been better to use unserved 0.45mm rope for the preventer stay which would still give sufficient differential in size between stay and preventer stay. I may yet change the preventer stay and mouse. In the meantime I’ve finished the ratlines on the topmast shrouds and finished off the backstays. David

Thanks Al. I'm sure that you'll enjoy building Speedy. It makes a fine model and there is scope to make it your own.

I like your Idea Richard and may follow. I'm not sure that I could trust myself to make a clean cut of the excess plank below the wale. David

Great build and log with lots of useful tips and ideas I'll be interested to see the results of your CA and Superphatic tests BE David

Supplies from Canada and Czech Republic arrived so quickly that I didn’t get time to begin Harpy, although work on Speedy, did involve the Harpy kit. I decided the wooden cutter was no longer salvageable. Instead I’ve raided Harpy’s box and made up the 3D printed version. I made up the boat cradles from the Speedy kit and have hit a snag. It maybe an unforeseen consequence of adding rounding to the hatch coamings but the cutter rests on the ledges rather than the cradles. It wouldn’t do for Cochrane to be banging is head every time he came on deck so I’ll have to cut some new ones to make the boat sit above the hatches. With new supplies of rope and blocks, I can continue with the rigging. Topmast backstays are added using 0.45mm rope. The shifting backstays are also completed using 0.45mm rope for the pendants and 0.25mm for the falls. It wasn’t clear to me where they belayed but I have used the nearest convenient belay pin. The falls are not fixed so they can be moved if necessary. I'll add ratlines, finish lanyards and trim ropes once the topmast stays are completed so it's on with those now. The likes are much appreciated and thanks for looking in. David

I had begun to fit the booms before Daniel’s @Thukydides tip on fitting the topmast shrouds next and as I couldn’t see any reason not to, I finished fitting the lifts and halliards. I have fitted the pendants for the vangs but not completed the falls. I was unsure where the peak hallliard should belay. For the moment I’ve tied to the aft starboard shroud. I now turned to the topmast shrouds. As for the lower shrouds, the forwardmost shroud is fully served and the others to about 4ft, scale 18mm below the halfway point. I used 0.45mm dark brown rope.. The shrouds were set up with deadeyes in the usual way. I thought 0.1mm looked a bit thin for the lanyards. According to Steel they are 2” corresponding to 0.25mm. Next up are the stays and backstays but I failed to order enough of the finer brown rope from RoS so I can add the ratlines, futtock staves, catharpins and sister block but then I will wait for new supplies. The good news is that meanwhile, the Master of the Shipyard has ordered a start on Harpy and thanks to all the blogs already on MSW @Blue Ensign, @Glenn-UK and @Richard44, there is some great advice and tips that I will benefit from. 😊 David

An excellent result Walter on these delicate little boats. David

Thanks for the heads up Daniel. For some reason, I'm finding it difficult to put together a plan for rigging Speedy so I will follow your advice and move to the topmast shrouds before continuing with the yards. If I find that they are getting in the way I can unrig them as they're not glued in. David

I’ve been working on the lower yards. I’m a bit short of the smaller diameter ropes from RoS so I’ve used 0.4mm Gutterman thread for most of the strops. While the yards are not fixed to the masts, I thought it easier to add the ropes for the jeers. The plans do not show any yard tackle pendants but I assume that they must have been present. I used 0.7 mm rope and 7mm long tackle blocks. They will eventually be rigged with falls and hooked to the futtock shrouds. I prefer the look of rope stirrups rather than the PE brass ones supplied. They are made from 0.35mm rope. An eye is spliced in the lower end and the other end attached to the yards with three wraps and then glued. The eye hangs 15mm below the top of the yard. The horses are 0.45mm rope and are first to go onto the yardarm, followed by the yard tackle pendant, the combined sheet and lift blocks and finally the brace pendant. The yards are pinned to the mast but not glued. I thought I would see if I could hold them in place using only the trusses. I may come to regret this but for now, with the falls in place, it seems to work. The I want to continue with the running rigging of the lower yards as far as possible but it occurred to me that it might be worth adding the driver boom and gaff while the main mast is still accessible. David

Sorry to hear about your health problems. Hope you're on the way to recovery and can get back to Sparkler in the spring David

Well done Rob - a lovely result. David

I’ve been making progress on the yards. The octagonal sections for the lower and topmast yards were marked, roughly cut with minature chisel and then sanded to finish. I find it pretty difficult trying to get even sides to my octagons starting from round dowel. I think that next time I will try harder to find some square section. Smaller sizes are readily available but anything above 6mm seems more difficult to come by. After finishing the octagonal sections, the tapering is done in the lathe. I followed the plan sheets’ dimensions in most cases. Having cleaned down the lathe and all the dust, I assembled the yards for this photo and then realised that I had only made 4 stuns’l booms and need another 4. I also need to make two boomkins so the lathe will have to come out again. But first I’ll finish dressing the yards. The gaff and boom jaws needed a bit of tweaking. I first cut them in two and filed a groove along the inner edges to fit around the booms and glued them in place. I sanded in a lot more taper to the jaws and then rounded off the edges. They were finished off with three ‘iron’ bands cut from black card. All the yards and booms are painted matt black ready to start adding the blocks. Thanks for the likes and for looking in David

Looking forward to following your build Glenn.

Your Scotland is a lovely model. My first model ship was the cutter Hunter from Mamoli but after a break of more than 20 years I built Scotland as a refresher before starting on HMS Fly. Judging by the quality of your Scotland, I'm sure you are set for your next, more ambitious, project. David

I completed the planking of the cutter and was quite pleased with the result of my first attempt at clinker planking. The only problem I ran in to was that I put too much pressure on the transom when fitting one of the planks and it split in half. I glued it back together and completed the planking. I trimmed and sanded the planks at the stern and all looked well until I removed the frames and then structure just fell apart. I have begun to put it back together but the transom has split again. I have put it to one side for now while I consider whether to continue with repairs or abandon in favour of a 3D printed version. I went back to finishing the shrouds, adding futtock staves, catharpins and ratlines which are now completed. I've begun work on the yards having marked them up and filed and sanded the octagonal sections of the lower and topsail yards. They are now ready for tapering on the lathe. David

Oh I have Andrew, I have 😇

Lower Shrouds and Stays The new jig is made and both fore and main mast shrouds set up. This jig worked much better than messing around with the bits of brass rod that I had used previously. The lanyards are made from 0.4mm thread and will be finally tensioned at a later stage when the standing ring for the lower masts is completed. Moving on to the stays. Based on Steel, the fore mainstay should be scale 8mm and preventer 7mm. I had no 8mm rope in my stock so used 1mm cabled rope. The main stay is given as scale 1mm rope but to maintain a differential between fore and main stays, I’ve used 1.2mm and 0.8 for the preventer stay. Lees says that stays are served to 6’ below the mouse, which in my case meant I served the top145mm of each stay. I’ve started making the mouse (mouses, mice?) for each stay, turning them on my lathe from 4mm dowel. They still need a little more work with the file to achieve a better shape. The other bit of news is that I received this the other day. I’ve been allowed to look at the box but it has now been put away and not to be seen again for another 2 weeks. 🧑‍🎄🙁 Thanks for the like and comments David

First piece of rigging to add is the gammoning. I used 0.45mm dark brown rope as the nearest I had to 0.5mm from RoS. I was able to get 9 turns in the slot but only 8 frapping turns before I thought they were getting too close to the bowsprit. I also used 0.45mm rope for the stays and shrouds all set up with 3mm deadeyes. Final trimming is left until latter in case I need to adjust tensions. With the bowsprit well lashed down I moved on to the shrouds of the masts but first the pendants of tackles needed to be added. I used 0.7mm rope served along their whole length. According to Lees thimbles had replaced blocks ffor the tackles I messed about using drilled out 4 and 5mm trucks for the thimbles but decided they were oversized and went with 3mm brass thimbles I had from HiS Model. The shrouds are 0.6mm rope. The foremost is fully served and the rest served down to the level of the lower catharpins. I decided that a served length of 50mm looked right. I cut a length of 400mm for each pair of foremast shrouds. The first pair are served for 250mm and the second for 100mm. The main mast shrouds needed to be a little longer and I used 450mm for each pair, The main mast has five shrouds each side and the final swifters are rigged singly to each side. All the shrouds were prepared in one session of serving followed by seizing them around the mast head. It would have been easier to slip the shrouds over the mast if I had not added the cleats and blocks but at least I was able to remove the blocks temporarily. I’ve started turning in the deadeyes – I’m using cable laid rope so the deadeyes are turned in right-handed. Going back to the three shrouds that I did yesterday, I think that they are slightly too close together so I will make an new jig and redo them. Thanks for the likes and for looking in David

I put in my pre-order for Harpy this week but there is still plenty to do on Speedy and in any case, I have to pretend I don’t know what it is until Christmas 😄 🙄 Bowsprit and Booms The bowsprit is turned from 6mm dowel. The maximum diameter is 1/3 of the length along from the step. I cut a square tenon for the fitting into the cap rather than round. Apart from the gammoning, there seemed to be no way of preventing the bowsprit from moving back through the bitts with the kit arrangement, so I have added a heel. Actually a false heel. I had glued the bitts into the deck so had to remove them to make it easier to work on. I filled the hole in the bitts with a scrap of dowel and glued a second short length of dowel to the after side. The heel piece was sanded and filed to shape. The bitts were refitted and the bowsprit is pinned and glued to the to the forward side. I don’t know if this arrangement is correct but it looks better to my eye than the bowsprit fitting flush into the bitts. Prior to fitting, I added all blocks and cleats. I decided not to use the PE brass fittings for the blocks and instead they are stropped with 0.45 rope. I served one piece of rope in sections of between 40 and 8omm depending on the position and number of blocks in the strop. I was a little puzzled by the rigging plan here because the PE rings showed all the deadeyes on one ring but the plans definitely show at least two strops. For simplicity, I decided to rig the bowsprit stay deadeye on one strop, the two side stays on another and the fore stay on a third. I used a similar arrangement for preventer stays and 3mm blocks. Thank goodness for quadhands... I used the PE parts for the fairlead and jibboom saddle and just forward of this I added the spritsail yard saddle I made from a wine bottle capsule. I hope it looks similar to the lead sheet used in real life but may need toning down. I wasn’t able t modify the bowsprit cap to take the squared tenon and made a replacement from boxwood sheet. I have also scratched the dolphin striker from a piece of 1mm walnut which looks a more substantial piece now. Jib and flying jib booms are made from appropriate sized dowels. The jib boom has an octagonal section 14mm long at the after end and a 3mm length at the forward end. I cut a heelrope sheave and hole for the lashing on the inboard end and a sheave for the outhauler at the outer end. The flying jib boom gets very delicate on the lathe when working it down to 1.4mm on far end. There is a short octagonal section on the inner end. I’ve not been brave enough yet to cut sheaves in this thin spar but I may attempt it when it’s time to fix it in place. The bowsprit is now pinned and glued in place and it’s time to start rigging. jib and flying jib are loosely fitted but they look pretty vulnerable out there so will be removed until later. Thanks a lot for looking in, the likes, comments and general encouragement. David