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Cleat

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    Minnesota, US

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  1. I don't recall all the programs I checked out; some have subscriptions, some don't, and some are very expensive. Mesh Cam looks similar to VCarve, I think VCarve might have more features. I noticed VCarve is favored with many CNC users. You buy VCarve once and can use it without a subscription. You have the option to buy a low cost fee for a year of free updates. One feature you really need is a CAM module/program (CAM converts a drawing into G-code); VCarve does that and it looks like Mesh Cam does it too. Before I bought VCarve I used QCad ($40) and bought their CAM software ($70) but you need to know how g-codes work to troubleshoot problems (it outputs generic code). VCarve can output g-code for a variety of CNC machines and it looks like Mech Cam does that too.
  2. I import .DWG and .SVG files. I bought Qcad ($40) to learn CAD software, I now use it for designing my wood working projects. I also used it to design a jig to help bend wire to bend several stair railings, the jig was a simple shape cut into a piece of wood where I could place the brass wire to shape the bends.. I also use a vector based program like Inkscape which produces .SVG files. Inkscape is free and easier to use than CAD software but CAD software is more accurate.
  3. I bought a Sainsmart 3018 Prover a few years ago. I bought it primarily for laser etching; I got a package that included a spindle plus some accessories. For model shipbuilding, I used the spindle to cut a jig that helped me bend brass wire for stairway railings. I used it to create stairway runners that I had broken. I used it to cut walnut veneer to cover some plywood pieces for my current built. I consider it a good learning tool and Sainsmart has very good support. I learned enough that I decided to buy a bigger CNC router machine for my garage (I made a lake contour map in wood). I’ve used a variety of free and inexpensive software. When I bought the machine for my garage I bought VCarve which is worth the price; it has tools to design (you can import drawings), it has a variety of tools to create and troubleshoot toolpaths, and it creates G-code to operate a CNC machine (they support a variety of CNC manufacturers). I’ve been writing myself a manual for CNC processes because I don’t use it often enough to remember everything. It is helpful the learn what G codes are. The CNC learning process is steep but VCarve helps reduce the learning process.
  4. Time to cut some lumber for the planking. I have a 2-inch chop saw that I used to cut dowls for a woodworking project. I made a fence for it to make it useful for model ship building. I’ll leave the 2x5 mm stock for the bottom natural. I’ll be testing dark stains on 4x4 mm scrap pieces to see what it looks like, I can always paint those pieces black.
  5. I cut walnut veneer to cover the plywood stand. I had some breakage but it glued up OK. Rubber bands make nice clamps. I cut walnut veneer for several parts. I didn’t consider the wood grain when I created the file to cut the veneer for the stand. (I used a CNC machine) It turned out OK, I wasn’t sure how the stain would look. I tried to make it look worn but it took a few applications to cover results I didn’t like.
  6. I like to use thinned polyurethane for garage projects and Minwax Wipe On Ploy for my indoor hobby projects. A can of Minwax is more convenient for my small indoor projects. I've also used water based poly indoors too.
  7. I worked with my hobby CNC machine and cut two sets of walnut veneer for the frames (good cnc experience project). After cutting the first set I made a change for the second set. Both sets had a reasonable fit. The top S-shaped piece wasn’t as precise as the other pieces, the second set was an improvement. Most of the pieces fit without adjustment, the small pieces on the sides took a lot of fitting. I planned on putting the second set on the front but I got into placing, fitting, and gluing and didn't notice which side I was working on. I scanned several kit pieces and processed the images with a variety of software to make a file to cut. I cut 0.5 mm walnut veneer and the cuts are pretty accurate. I also learned that 0.5 mm veneer is easily broken when handled.
  8. I cleaned up the interior wall end pieces and applied veneer the frame to gussy it up. There are a lot of different pieces stacked together. I installed the top deck but I didn’t want to install any pieces on the deck while handling the structure during the planking installation.
  9. I inadvertently put some posts of my build on another person's build (I have been referencing their build). I'm wondering how I can move the posts to my build.
  10. I got another deck done and I'm ready for the top deck. I will be filling the gaps and cleaning up the ends and extension of the interior walls. I will apply some walnut veneer to the plywood frame.
  11. To make the columns I marked the ends with a pencil. I used a round file to create the transition from the square ends to the round middles. I used a flat file to knock off the edges. I used 150 grit sandpaper to round the columns.
  12. I'm making progress. I added another deck. I noticed that I placed the columns inline with each deck with the first columns, the kit shows the columns next to the center features. I haven't decided if I want to move them of leave them as is and call it a personalization.
  13. The rope work is great. I nothing but trouble with the rigging (I failed trying to make the big knots).
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