cog

First net on and rigged. 

Anchors and the start of the torpedo net deployment 

4. Wale, beam clamp and floor heads thick stuff
Gluing the wale into place.

When both wales are into place I place the beam clamps. They have to be glued at the same altitude as the wales, therefore I place a lath from wale to wale as a guide to glue the beam clamps.

 

 

Now I glue the  floor head thick stuff.

The hull is now stiff enough to be taken out the building board ...

 

... and to be sanded at the outside.

 

 

I tree nail the beam clamps and the floor head thick stuff at the inside of the hull before placing the deck beams. The wales at the outside can still wait some time.

I saw the frames equal to the topside of the wales with a metal saw blade.

 

 

 
Thank you to follow
Thank you for the likes
Thank you for your constructive comments
 
Till next week!

Thank you Gary.
 
I am now passing to the next step.
 
3. Keelson and mast step
Marking the recesses for the frames on the keelson.

Sawing out the recesses.

The top of the keel has a curved line so the keelson needs some force to be pushed into position. When gluing, I support is with a prop. The top level of the building board is a handy help to clamp it below.
 
 

The keelson into place.

I tree nail the keelson through the floor timbers into the keel.

 

Before going further I sand the inside of the frames. I use a curved wooden sanding block on which I staple sandpaper of different grits.

Making the mast step. I drill two holes in the block and chiseled the space between them out to one hole. Then I make the two sides sloping and finally I sand the bottom side into the same curve as the topside of the keelson. I see now that I was a bit lazy in making photos of the making process.

Gluing the mast step.

 

 

 

 
Thank you to follow
Thank you for the likes
Thank you for your constructive comments
 
Till next week!

It takes a while before all frames are made and placed because in between I have to saw and plane planks to 4 mm thickness which is very time consuming.

 

 

Before placing the after frames I sand the bevel to the transom sides and glue the transom into place.

Finally, all frames into place.

 

 

 

 
Thank you to follow.
Thank you for the likes.
 
Till next week!
 
 
 

Thank you very much for your interest, Vaddoc, Keith, Michael and Druxey.
Thanks for the likes!
 
Continuing making and placing frames.

 

Starting the fourth frame from the bow, the frames are half frames.

Also frame 15 to 22 at the aft are half frames.

Starting to make the frames.
I first lay a copy of the frame drawing on an upside down carbon paper and push through the drawing to obtain the frame drawing on the back side of the paper.

 

The I extend the futtock ends with a long pencil line.

The pencil lines help me to place the different parts of the frame. I glue the first layer on the drawing with a paper glue stick.

The frames of the boat are single futtock frames which are only doubled at the joints. I find it easier to saw and sand them as fully doubled frames, so I glue temporarily spruce wood dummy futtocks which will be removed afterwards. I make the frames also some 2.5 cm higher than needed.

First layer is glued. Only the cherry wood parts are glued together with wood glue. I beware to not put glue between the cherry and the spruce parts.

Gluing the second layer. Also here I put only wood glue between the cherry wood parts. Where a spruce (dummy) piece comes on top of a cherry piece I put a piece of paper between it and glue the parts with strongly water diluted wood gluer.

The whole frame is glued.

Now I lay the frame in my 'frame box' that I used already for making the frames of my shrimper and the smack cross section. The inside measurements are exactly those of a A4 paper, sot the frame drawing just fits in it.

The box makes it possible to glue easily another frame drawing on top of the frame, just in the exact position. This drawing will serve to saw out the frame.

On top of the frame goes now a plank (A4 format) and some lead weights and the glue may dry. In the box is space for three frames on top of each other.

After a couple of hours when the glue is dry, the frame can be sawn.

Afterwards the sides (saw cuts) are  sanded with the band- and disk sander. At the same time I sand the slope at the sides of the frame.

 

I tree nail the double parts of the frame.

Before sanding of the frame drawing, I mark the top and the water line on the sides of the frame.

Now the paper can be sanded off.
Foto 108
The spruce dummy futtocks can easily be removed with a small sharp chisel thanks to the paper which is glued between the two layers.

 

When all the paper traces are removed, the frame can be placed on the keel.
The first three are in place:

 

 
Thank you for the likes
Thank you to follow
Thank you for your constructive comments.
 
Happy New Year
 
Till next year!
 

2. The frames
The vessel has 22 frames. Frame drawings are not included in the book 'Apprendre le modelisme naval' so I will have to make myself. No worry, I like the drawing board work.
I start by drawing the front and aft side of the frames on the half breadth plan and then measure the measure of each water line on the front of the frame with the divider.

I bring over the measurement to the frame plan and mark it.

I do the same with every buttock line.

At the end, I have a series of pencil marks which show the outline of the frame.

With the help of the French curve rules the marks are connected and form the shape of the front side of the frame.

The whole process is now to be repeated to draw the back side of the frame.

The complete frame. The uninterrupted line is the front side of the frame and the dashed line is the back side of the frame. On this drawing the insides of the frame are also drawn as well as the subdivision in futtocks.

It takes some time, but after a while all 22 frames are drawn. Now we make a jump ahead of some weeks and here they are spread out on my desktop.

 
Thank you for the likes
Thank you to follow
Thank you for your constructive comments.
 
Till next week!
 

As I mentioned before, I want to make a tin ballast keel to imitate the cast iron keel which had the original vessel. I will make a mold in plaster.
I start with making a formwork around my dummy keel. The attached bulb on the second picture serves to make a pour funnel.

 

 

The mold, filled with plaster.

When the plaster dried, I can take it out of the mold (finally I did have to make a new plaster mold, because the one on this picture didn't dry completely and was too fragile due to a wrong mixing ratio between plaster and water (too much water).

 

The new mold, dry and ready to be filled with tin.

I bought two staves of plumbers tin.

Melting the tin. I did not make a picture of the pouring itself because holding a pan with melted tin in one hand and pour while using the other hand to make a selfie didn't seem a wise idea to me.

 

When the keel is cooled down, it can be taken out of the mold. The appendix at the left side is the pour funnel which has to be sawn off.

The finished ballast keel.

Fitting the keel on the model

Finally the keel is blackened and holes (air bubbles) at the surface are puttied. Now the keel can be stuck to the model with structural glue.

 
Thank you for the likes
Thank you to follow
Thank you for the constructive comments.
 
Till next week!

The real boat had a cast iron ballast keel. Gerd Löhmann gave his model a wooden keel, painted in black to imitate the lead. I want to give my model a real metal keel. I will make my keel of tin. I first make a dummy keel in spruce wood which will serve as template to make the casting mold.

 

Filling up the dead wood.

All the wooden parts of the keel are now made. I screw the ballast keel template provisionally  on the keel to glue the dead wood pieces in place to shape the sides of the keel.

 

 

I draw the rebates which have to be made on the stem.

Before chiseling the stem, I will make the stem knee to give it some more strength.

I make also the stern knee.

 

 

 

 

 

Now I can make the rebates.

 

 

Checking the depth of it.

The round groove of the sternpost has to continue on the back of the keel and the dead wood. I file it out with a round wood file and sand it afterward.

 

The forward part of the bow has to be narrowed. Cutting the bow in shape with the chisel.

 

 

The keel is wider than the bow. It has to narrow gradually to the fore end to the width of the bow. It is also done with the wood chisel.

 

 

The keel as it is now.

 
Thank you for the likes
Thank you to follow
Tank you for the constructive comments.
 
Till next week!

Hello Vaddoc,
Welcome to join the club.
I bought the gun on an online flea market auction. I made a bid of 20€ and the gun was mine. It is a cast iron gun of 55 cm long. I do not know what it what it was for. Certainly not to shoot with.

I still have to decide what I will do with it: rig it like a naval gun or like a field gun what it probably portraits, but in the case it will become very big (see example below). All suggestions are welcome!

CHAPTER I. The Boat
 
1. Keel and stems
 
Starting with the keel, the prow and the stem. To saw them in the right shape I glue a copy of the plan on the different pieces of wood.

For the right cuts, I clamp my work piece with the cutting line along two steel L-profiles in the vise and saw with a hand scrub along the profiles.

Where I have to saw curves, I use the jig saw...

.. and the band- (outer curves) and drum (inner curves) sander to finish.

 

 

In the back side of the stern post there has to be made a round groove to give room for the rudder. I made it before sawing the sternpost. I have no precision tools to do it, therefore I make a much longer piece then needed; that gives me the opportunity to choose the best piece to make the sternpost from.

 

 

At the bottom of the sternpost is a pin which fits in a hole in the keel. Sawing the pin.

 

Making the hole in the keel.

 

 

Keel and stems glued together

 
Thank you for the likes
Thank you to follow
Tank you for the constructive comments.
 
Till next week!

In August, after finishing my smack cross section, I started a new project. The first series of pictures are sorted now, it is time to start with the log of this new scratch project.
 
Introduction
Since ages, the ship model was the ideal tool to show how a vessel fits together.
Ship builders used models to present their new designs to the admiralties. (painting 'A New Ship for the Dutch' John Seymour Lucas)

In the 19th and early 20th century they were very suitable for museums to show to the general public how live on board of a ship was. (Picture of the old Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, borrowed from the website of the Rijksmuseum).

And not least, the ship model was used as a didactic tool in maritime education. (Source of picture: fishermen's orphans during nautical education, 'IBIS' Orphan school in Ostend during the 50ties. Screenshot from archive movie 'Koninklijk Werk IBIS')

I had my first naval training in the mid-seventies. In that time the era in which the ship model was a current didactic tool was already past. The ship model was replaced by slides on overhead projectors and video.
Nowadays maritime education centers use Power point, smart boards, digital simulators, and all kind of virtual tools.
But I still remember that the Mine Warfare School in Ostend had a series of beautiful dioramas to demonstrate all the different types of mine sweeping gear, in the seamanship classroom in the Naval Education Center they had all kinds of models of the rigging for replenishment at sea. We learned the maritime buoyage system with models of the buoys. During sailing classes we learned the different parts of the sail boat with the help of a 1/5 scale model of the Caravelle sailing boat.
All those fine didactic models are vanished. I suppose that a lot turned into dust in cellars and attics. Some disappeared probably to private collections and hopefully some are preserved in museums although I didn't see back a lot of them.
Up to now I have built some didactic models, two cross sections and a full framed fishing sloop with one side left open. From nostalgic motive I want to build a pure educational model. It will be a old fashioned school model, intended to learn a landlubber (or a new naval recruit) the different parts of a boat.
The image below shows more or less what I have in mind: making a model of a stripped boat and naming all the parts of it. (drawing from 'Le Chasse Marée')

I find a suitable design for my project in the book 'Apprendre le modelisme naval' (a publication of Le Chasse Marée).

In the chapter 'Le modèle de chartente' (the model on frames) the boat carpenter Gerd Löhmann explains how to make a model on frames. The chapter is a description of the build of the mackerel cutter 'Marie', a small sailing fishing sloop of the type which was used along the Breton coast (France) before World war II. Gerd Löhmann built his cutter just like I would like to be my didactic model (Picture from the book 'Apprendre le modelisme naval').

The book contains also the detailed plans of the vessel on scale 1/10. The real vessel was built in 1928 and was 6.86 m long, so the model will be ±69 cm long. I will build it in cherry (Picture from the book 'Apprendre le modelisme naval').

Some time ago I got a few stumps from the trunk of a cherry tree that an acquaintance cut down in his garden. I have split the stumps into sawable pieces an stowed them away on a dry space.

That is the wood I will use for my instruction model: Some pieces sawn into planks, ready to  be planed to the necessary thicknesses.

To finish this post, a word about the layout of this building log. I would like to make this project not simply an instruction model, but also a lexicon and encyclopedia about wooden shipbuilding terms. So, I will work in three phases: first the boat model, then the lexicon and finally the encyclopedia. My log will follow this sequence and will be build up in three chapters:
I. The Boat
II. The Lexicon
III. The Encyclopedia
Now I am ready to start. The keel will be laid in my next post.
I hope I will be able to captivate you with this new project.

Painting result ... I didn't realise myself that once I coverd the plane in chipping fluid, it woould have certain consequences ... I have to remask it for the red and the other colours ... I will be ripping the masked colour layers off, at least partly ... ... already some of the white has been "damaged" when removing the masking tape. If it will be worse, Bf 109G-6 is in for a wash and polish ...
 

 
The red requires some patience ... on order
 
 

Ken, Dennis, I was partial to the Northern African camouflage too, I might just use that one on the third build. Something colourful for a change would be nice, hence the red, white, grey, green and some sort of blueish/purplish, undefindish on the the tail. The last one will be pimped with a radio compartment, a detailup cockpit (as in this one), and an engine. This one and the previous one can't take off without an engine
 
It took me an hour to do the masking for the white, the red will be slightly easier ... we'll see. The Coolpix I used for the photographs leaves somewhat to be desired. Lighting is off, or it's the metal paint which makes the uncovered parts nearly uniform silvery
 

 
First there is paint work to do!
 
 

Thought as much, else it's flapping it's wings

Painting result ... I didn't realise myself that once I coverd the plane in chipping fluid, it woould have certain consequences ... I have to remask it for the red and the other colours ... I will be ripping the masked colour layers off, at least partly ... ... already some of the white has been "damaged" when removing the masking tape. If it will be worse, Bf 109G-6 is in for a wash and polish ...
 

 
The red requires some patience ... on order
 
 

Ken, Dennis, I was partial to the Northern African camouflage too, I might just use that one on the third build. Something colourful for a change would be nice, hence the red, white, grey, green and some sort of blueish/purplish, undefindish on the the tail. The last one will be pimped with a radio compartment, a detailup cockpit (as in this one), and an engine. This one and the previous one can't take off without an engine
 
It took me an hour to do the masking for the white, the red will be slightly easier ... we'll see. The Coolpix I used for the photographs leaves somewhat to be desired. Lighting is off, or it's the metal paint which makes the uncovered parts nearly uniform silvery
 

 
First there is paint work to do!
 
 

I decided to do a bit more on mossie as the tv was rubbish,   so  I thought I would have a go at the props and spinners, these are a Three piece  unit considting of the prop  a backing plate and the spinner cap,  first I  cleaned up the prop  and discovered it was a bit to thick  and lacking shape,  simple adjustment  by samding it to reduce its thickness  while also giving it some shape.
I then dry fitted  it.
 
OC.

Beautiful and detailed work there.  I'd be detoxing for a few days after that.

I thank my friends for the likes
the work continued with the sewing of the bonnets, I had not previously had to integrate additional pieces to the sails for which I took from the drawing the sewing technique that Adametz draws in a very superficial way without giving any indications whatsoever, so I armed with the needle and for the thread I used what I needed for the realization of the herring using a single thread, I do not deny that just to start with the seam I made several attempts to guess the way of sewing, in practice it starts from end going backwards, determining in advance the length of the eyelet made with the thread that will pass through the other upper hole and will be stropped with a smaller eyelet always made with the usual "strangle" thread, the explanation is complex, think the seam ...
in short, I put the photo of the sail with the bonnette prepared for sewing

the next step refers to the moment when the "seam" was finished and the rings "were passed through the upper holes

4/5 hours had elapsed the work proceeded very slowly, when I tried to stop the bonnetta superior to the sail I realized that the "rings" made were insufficient to close the seam
I had to cut the thread (curses were not missing !!!)
recovered the calm, I resumed the seam another 3/4 unnerving hours, the thread despite the holes made are wide it must be double in two successive passages and the amount of thread inserted in the needle for the seam was over a meter so after the first few steps the thread twists on itself ... however in the end I managed to put the first bottle,
what a stress !!!
I imagined the situation at sea ,,,
if the time needed had been what I needed or not there was the risk that started the maneuvers to increase the surface of the sail with the bonnette once the wind was finished it had already dropped 
surely even if it was in the late Middle Ages the time for the maneuver had to be much faster, surely there were more hands and a different technique, so I started thinking and observing,
the seam made with the needle is too long and complex with twisting problems, the method was not the seam but the "re-threading", perhaps I had in mind the system I prepared myself with the copper wire a curved needle to thread the wire, place the progressive images of the re-threading, with the work they are in the first row of lower holes and I hook the wire with the copper needle


then I take it back from the hole, taking it behind the herring to the extent obtained from the "L" that the ring must have to choke with the other ring next to it (roughly a couple of cm, in my case)
 
the next step is to make the ring for tightening with the wire coming from the right, passing the garment inside on the right

pulling it to tighten (strangle) the major ring by starting on the right with the thread and re-preparing another ring,
once you have finished all the rings on the bottom row

they are all inserted from the inside into the upper holes, going back inside the ring to the end of the ring by pulling to the right and developing the coupling towards the right;
time needed an hour but with less problems of twisting and various "enlargements",
I think a couple of medieval sailors armed with tools and experience completed the maneuver in a few minutes ...
however it was gone! the main sail was over
I put image of the main sail with the bonnette in front and behind


so the sails are ready to be positioned
 
 

I have to remove the Santa Maria from the bag and start again with the work in the laboratory,
in a few days, I have to detoxify myself a little 

... I'm going to detox in the garden ...
 
see you next time
black Wolf
 

Very impressive Eberhard. I  can loose much bigger parts than that with great ease. 

Just when I thought I was kicking some goals you come along to spoil the party   Seriously though Eberhard, that is some very (VERY) impressive micro-maching and the result looks excellent.  So much for me cobbling bits together to 'simulate' when you can do this at half the size I am doing it at.  As you have said in other logs, a machined item looks much better.
 
cheers
 
Pat

WOW!  I was shocked........we only went 1/4 of the block.  he doesn't like to go down to the field anymore,  so we've been going from one street to another...and back again.   he acts like such a 'toughy',  but if he gets leary of his surroundings,  he'll lay down and won't go any further.......we end up going back the way we came.   I got him to the point now,  where we can go the entire city block.  for some reason,  this morning he didn't want to......we'll go later  
   I'm still planking that second hull........one strake here.....one strake there.   I'm almost done...so anyone following the Clotilda......please be patient.
 
so where was I??????  the cockpit.......not much more.   putting the frame together was a little tedious.......I wanted to make sure everything goes where they are supposed to.
  
it's still a little tweaked in spots...if I had any of that thin rod,  I'd try to reinforce the frame to bring the shape back.   I'm not sure how it all fits together,  so this would make it hard to judge.  spreading the sides apart a little bit makes it easy to slide in.
  
well.....gibbs is badgering me to go back out........opps.....the admiral just went out with him.   I'm sure this will be the walk he didn't want to do earlier,  so I'd better gt out there.   I hope this isn't going to be what the day is like   

another thing I was curious of,  was the center wing root.  there is only the flat shelf.....no slot for it to fit into.  the top part of the body encases it,  hugging the wing without too bad of a seam.   there is nothing to guide it's location otherwise.......it's simply sandwiched between the body and the upper body cover.

this is fortunate though.......this gives me a wide open bay in which to fit the cockpit.  because of the body issue,  and the insult of the heat fiasco,  the fuselage halves had to be cemented together to correct the combined issues.   I was glad to see that the floor of the cockpit doesn't rely on the bottom wing tunnel to sit on.......it cements to the internal cockpit frame.  even if it didn't do that,  it's nice to find that that an alternative can be done.      the engine mount bracket was cemented to the firewall.   trimming the flash off of it,  one of the bars broke,  reminding me that this plastic is brittle.  it's fixed with little trouble.   this plastic makes me recall of some of the real old car kits in the late 60's/early 70's........it wa a very cloudy plastic,  and very hard too........AMT or MPC perhaps.

I may need to cut off these pin marks.  I though they there as locators,  but so far nothing seems to go in either areas.

the seat is assembled,  and here are the side frames for the cockpit.   they are a little bent and twisted........one bar is broken..........likely from the way the sprues were packed.   I'm trying to be real careful with them,  knowing how brittle the plastic is.

I was looking on the site last night......play'in with the plane as I looked and typed.   progress?
  
you can see that I've pretty much cut out all of the root tunnel.......that's the wing root bar your seeing in there.   it can be seen how adding the top fuselage part closes the huge opening.  those two 'shelves' can be seen on top of the opening,  on which the center wing root sits on.  kinda weird.........but OK  
 
.....got to take gibbs out....I'll be back....