cog

Well done Denis. Love the way she turned out ... a little poetry wouldn't come a miss ...
 
she being Brand
 
-new;and you
know consequently a
little stiff I was
careful of her and (having
 
thoroughly oiled the universal
joint tested my gas felt of
her radiator made sure her springs were O.
 
K.)i went right to it flooded-the-carburetor cranked her
 
up,slipped the
clutch (and then somehow got into reverse she
kicked what
the hell) next
minute i was back in neutral tried and
 
again slo-wly;bare,ly nudg. ing(my
 
lev-er Right-
oh and her gears being in
A 1 shape passed
from low through
second-in-to-high like
greasedlightning) just as we turned the corner of Divinity
avenue i touched the accelerator and give
 
her the juice,good
 
                                    (it
 
was the first ride and believe i we was
happy to see how nice she acted right up to
the last minute coming back down by the Public
Gardens i slammed on
 
the
internalexpanding
&
externalcontracting
breaks Bothatonce and
 
brought allofher tremB
-ling
to a:dead.
 
stand-
;Still)
 
by E.E. Cummings

We all have our priorities, Mr Bunny ...
 

Hmmm, for Valentine you said ... to keep all the other ladies at bay ...?

Or a different "wooden" deck

You've got my work cut out for me ...  Great result

What a wealth of information  ... just pose the right question, and you are burried underneath the answers  

What glue, what materials are glued?

Those woodendecks make such a difference on these models ...

It'll come when I see the speed you are building ... 1 destroyer, 1 transport, coming up 1 destroyer ...

Hmmm, for Valentine you said ... to keep all the other ladies at bay ...?

So no ships or boats, I presume the short refer to destroyers and such ... Well you are building a tank ...

Than he should use the Halve Maen, use a Dutch ship not a Swedish one. Furthermore, the name is De Vliegende Hollander, you shouldn't translate names  

really gett'in into the thick of it eh?!?!   looks like a really neat project Jack.......I'll pull up a seat too  

Some sort of magician you are ... or did you use a flute on the rope? (Last picture)

Ah, then you'll appreciate a neat suture line even more, Tony.

Thwart supports


 
I experimented with making the thwart supports using a metal lathe, but in the end found that my Proxxon woodworker’s lathe was better suited. I also found that 3mm square stock was far easier to handle than 2mm square stock.


 
In order to achieve a constant initial width I used a very wide sanding stick with 120 grit paper. If you’re wondering what the board is, it’s a zero tolerance insert for my bench saw that was discarded.


When making the supports, I left plenty of head room  top and bottom so that I could easily adjust the support to the correct height.


It was great to see the thwart supports all lined up in a row, ready for the thwarts. I drilled a 2mm hole in the centre underneath each of the relevant thwarts (not all the thwarts have pillar supports) and then gradually sanded down the tops of the supports until they fitted snugly.


Swivel gun stocks


 
The swivel gun stocks turned out to be slightly easier to make than I expected. Even though I am still thinking whether or not to arm the boat, it would be very difficult to fit the swivel stocks should I decide to arm them later.


 
The first stage is to drill in the stock the central hole for the swivel gun. I then cut the square stock to the shape of the bulwark. In my first attempt I had cut the squares into octagons before doing this and it ended up unsuccessfully as very fiddly. This way round (the way suggested in the guide) worked well. Lesson learned.


 
One thing you have to watch out for when preparing the stock is to ensure that the stock will fit against the strake that covers the frames, so I used a small section of 1mm thick planking to check the depth.


Cutting the octagon needed a little more care as not all the sides are cut to the full length. The side facing the bulwark only has an octagonal shape above the rubbing strake.


 
I used a jig from a previous model to cut the first phases of the octagon, together with a template to mark the cuts from the top. The very first cuts were with a miniature block plane, but the finishing was done with a sanding stick and a fine metal file.


 
The difficulty when cutting the octagon is ensuring the faces are straight. I just checked visually that the sides were kept parallel, and that seemed to work well enough.



By the way, I have not made mention of the fitting of the thwarts themselves, so this is just to note the importance of using a template to scrape a rounded edge to the correct dimensions on the front and rear edges of the thwarts.



Note that the front swivel stock has to have a notch cut to take the thwart stringer as the planks below are thinner than the stringer. This is not the case at the rear where the planks used to hold the stocks are the same thickness as the stringer.


 
Mast collars


 
The mast collars took me quite a bit of time as I have not worked with brass for a long time, so I had to re-learn some of the skills: notably cutting straight strips!


 
The first stage was to make the holding plates for the collars. These have four holes for the nails (or bolts) that fix them to the thwarts. I used a template first to determine the position of the holes on the brass strips. In the following pictures I demonstrate the use of the templates with strips that have already been drilled, but you should get the idea.


I also used a paper clip to hold the strips to the wood strip while marking where the holes should go.


 
Having marked the position of the holes in one direction, I scribed a straight line down the centre of the strip and then drilled the holes accordingly.


I used a handheld pin vice to drill these holes at first, but later on I changed to drilling them with an electric drill as it took such a long time by hand. All the same, even with the drill, I still started the holes with the pin vice as it is so much easier to determine the position by hand.


I then drilled the holes for the pins that would hold the mast collar to the holding plates. On my first try I had stupidly placed the nails in the holding plates forgetting that this would make the drilling of the pin holes very difficult, no, impossible. So I had to start all over again.


 
I also learned, after completing the main mast collar, that in order for it to lie flush to the thwart it would be a good idea to cut grooves for the holding plates.


The holding pins themselves turned out fairly easy to make. I took a piece of 1mm brass rod and flattened one end with a file. I then drilled a 05.mm hole in it for the forelock bolts.



The pin was then shaped to a conical form using the Proxxon drill and a file as well as a sanding stick.


The following shows the plate and holding pin in position, without the forelock bolt.


And now here’s the complete assembly, forelock bolts and all. You’ll notice I have not blackened the brass. The reason is simple: I haven’t yet found a way of blackening it and then assembling all the blackened bits without damaging the blackening. Mostly I end up with a rather blotchy effect if I do. Given the positioning of the collars, any imperfections will be glaringly obvious. So I’m making do with just the imperfections of the construction being glaringly obvious.


 
Perhaps one day I’ll learn the trick.





I’m lucky that I managed to squeeze in these few steps before my surgery next week. I’ll see what I can do before then, but I doubt very much I’ll be posting results for quite a while as I have a feeling that the lodging knees will be quite complex to make and fit correctly (the next step). All the same, keep a lookout if you're still interested in following!


With thanks again to all those who've given me comments, advice and the thumbs up. It's always motivating and very helpful.
 
Tony

You start to build your own fleet of destroyers ... gettin' like me
 
If you have a dazzle image taken square of the side of the ship, you could enlarge it to the size of your build and transpose it on to the hull. EIther by cutting it out and make a template with mask paper/tape, or draw it onto the hull. I used the former method for the H-class tribal I'm building. I scanned the required image from a book, cut out the different parts and copied them by tracing the shape on Tamiya masking tape the 2" width one. You should take into account, you will be painting from light to darker, as light doesn't cover a dark underground as well as vice versa. I painted the entire hull in the lightest colour, and then moved to a darker shade. I'll photograph the sequences in my next dazzled body build ... should have thought about ithat.

Marcus,
WIsh your wife well, and I hope she'll have a speedy recovery.
 
You have set your ambitions high with the ships of Abel Tasman, you'll have some exploring to do too.

Well done Denis. Love the way she turned out ... a little poetry wouldn't come a miss ...
 
she being Brand
 
-new;and you
know consequently a
little stiff I was
careful of her and (having
 
thoroughly oiled the universal
joint tested my gas felt of
her radiator made sure her springs were O.
 
K.)i went right to it flooded-the-carburetor cranked her
 
up,slipped the
clutch (and then somehow got into reverse she
kicked what
the hell) next
minute i was back in neutral tried and
 
again slo-wly;bare,ly nudg. ing(my
 
lev-er Right-
oh and her gears being in
A 1 shape passed
from low through
second-in-to-high like
greasedlightning) just as we turned the corner of Divinity
avenue i touched the accelerator and give
 
her the juice,good
 
                                    (it
 
was the first ride and believe i we was
happy to see how nice she acted right up to
the last minute coming back down by the Public
Gardens i slammed on
 
the
internalexpanding
&
externalcontracting
breaks Bothatonce and
 
brought allofher tremB
-ling
to a:dead.
 
stand-
;Still)
 
by E.E. Cummings

You just stick with us mate, we won't lead you astray, fair dinkum!

You are making some incredible fine details at the scale you are working on, Steven. A joy to watch your updates

A little more progress.  The forward cant frames are now all fitted and I've started fitting hawse pieces - hopefully they'll all be on next Monday.
 
The problem at the moment is School Holidays!  There are lots of visitors in the museum and I'm doing far more talking than model making.  Of course if anyone shows any real interest I tell them about this amazing international forum of model makers that I know of! 
 
John
 

 

Well done Denis. Love the way she turned out ... a little poetry wouldn't come a miss ...
 
she being Brand
 
-new;and you
know consequently a
little stiff I was
careful of her and (having
 
thoroughly oiled the universal
joint tested my gas felt of
her radiator made sure her springs were O.
 
K.)i went right to it flooded-the-carburetor cranked her
 
up,slipped the
clutch (and then somehow got into reverse she
kicked what
the hell) next
minute i was back in neutral tried and
 
again slo-wly;bare,ly nudg. ing(my
 
lev-er Right-
oh and her gears being in
A 1 shape passed
from low through
second-in-to-high like
greasedlightning) just as we turned the corner of Divinity
avenue i touched the accelerator and give
 
her the juice,good
 
                                    (it
 
was the first ride and believe i we was
happy to see how nice she acted right up to
the last minute coming back down by the Public
Gardens i slammed on
 
the
internalexpanding
&
externalcontracting
breaks Bothatonce and
 
brought allofher tremB
-ling
to a:dead.
 
stand-
;Still)
 
by E.E. Cummings

Fig-171- The working model of the Wallace & Sons Patent Bilge Pump, as originally  fitted to the Falls of Clyde in 1878.
 
All that is covered in this Build Log, is at this time, is being assembled for permanent public display on the Barque Glenlee, on the Clyde in Port Glasgow, Scotland.  This to show to a younger generation how the famous Scottish iron ships were put together on the Clyde in the late 1800s. < https://thetallship.com >
Fig-172.mp4