woodartist
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When I was removing the pieces for the build board I noticed that the laser had not completely burned thru one one sheet. The other two were fine. When I closely examined it, it became apparent that the root cause of this was that the piece of plywood had warped thus causing the problem. It just took a little more work with a fine exacto blade to cure the problem. This was also true on one sheet of the bulkheads. The head knee was my next project and it fit together wonderfully, I was surprised at the exactness of the fit. The tapering is now done, I think. I have yet to put in the gammon knee. I may have to taper some for that but we shall see. The three section keel boards are glued and drying.
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The first shipment has arrived. Work/fun will commence immediately. The instructions have been printed and placed in three ring binder. Will commence preparation of the bulkheads with sanding them before removing them from plywood sheets.
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I have downloaded the plans and took those to the printer. They are huge!! Just realized how large this model really is. I do not have a wall space large enough to post them. I NEED TO COME UP WITH A SOLUTION FOR THAT, I purchased a 12" x 36" piece of MDF to use as the base once the form parts arrive. I have read quite a few of the build logs and better appreciate how difficult this build will be. The common themes are to get everything exactly right at the beginning, take your time!!, read and reread the instructions, if you do not know what to do ask before doing something you are unsure about.
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i will have a nice scotch on rocks
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Can you put a final coat of oil based poly over prior coats of water based poly. Which is preferred for use on model boats?
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Well this build is getting closer to being finished. All the masts and booms are ready to rig. All the fixtures for the deck are completed and ready for permanent installation after the masts are finished rigging. I made my first sail. It is not perfect but I think it looks good. I only have use of one hand so doing any rigging is not realistic so I have gotten a friend to volunteer to do the rigging. I tried to make the process as simple as I could for him, I put in all the pin and cleats needed for the rigging and the masts have all bits and pieces shown on the plans for rigging. I still have the the small deck boat to complete but the frame structure is done. It was difficult to keep it straight because the bulkheads have only a small surface that connects with the keel but with several tries ans an assortment of clamping methods it is glued and straight and ready for faring and planking.
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I recall that there were discussions underway, that someone was contemplating taking over production of Byrnes saws and sanders. Does anyie have an update? I have put off buying a Proxon table saw in hopes that this would happen.
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I noted that as well. I also have learned so much on the last two builds that I will likely do a total restart on Conny rather than a continuation. It is so crtical to get things correct at the beginning or it is an endless struggle to make it right.
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this looks really good, I like Mustafa's suggestion. It as the least amount of risk.
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You have earned it!!
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I have ordered the keel, bulkheads and chapter one parts in yellow cedar and will start the journey.
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I am looking for an Article written by John Tilly "Rigging and Forming Sails". Does anyone know the link?
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Jon, Yours was the first log I copied, Then i coped Rentner and MTBediz. They are all truly gems.
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Using guides that are square and do not move sure simplify, gluing up really small, light weight pieces.
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looks like it will work, great idea.
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they look like the real thing.
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Work continues on prepping the masts for rigging. I struggled with finding a way to get all four ring brackets together and locked n place with bolt and nut in the bracket piece. I tried every camp/tweezer process I could think of to no avail. After several hours of failure I thought lets put them on the mast first and let the mast hold them in place, ah eureka, it was done in a flash.
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I have begun the work on the aft mast. The plans below indicate the mast is to be tapered to 3mm at the tip. I used the drill and sand paper to taper the mast and matched the taper on the plans. The plans then cal for a 2mm copper tube 18mm long be inserted near the tip where it is 3mm thick. The copper tube supplied does not measure 2mm but n fact is 2.65mm. If I drilled a hole large enough to accommodate the provided copper tube the mast section would be extremely weak. I could have sanded the copper tube to get it to 2mm but that is a lot of sanding. I looked in my supply bag for another piece of tubing that was 2mm. I did not have one exactly 2mm but I did have one 1.75mm so i used it. I inserted the mast in the provided base and secured it with brass wire bolts and attached the 3 cleats shown on the mast plans. I then temporarily placed it in the slots on the main deck. The base sits flat on the deck and the mast is properly fixed in the mast base and there is a observable angle the mast, upon checking the photos in the manual it appears that there is a less than a 90 degree angle to the aft mast. So I will start the process again for the forward mast.
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continuing to work on completing the pilothouse. For newbies, when pieces of wood are really small it helps to have a square frame to hold the in place when gluing. I use the 90 degree angle pieces of aluminum that I normally use to square up the bulwarks.
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Putting the wheelhouse together. The gears all need to be reamed out for the copper tube to fit. The same holds true for the brass wire openings. I tried to assemble the pieces in the sequence shown in the manual but it did not work for me. I first assembled the two pieces for each side. Sanded the feet on the bottom and glued them in to the base. Thereafter i inserted the copper tube into the wheel after reaming it it fit. Then placed the top gears in and then the copper tube for the large bottom gears, then the two top spacers. the bottom gear will not fit if you install the spacers before the bottom gears. After it was completed painted the copper tubes black and the pins black. I then installed it in the wheelhouse. It looks really good in there.
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This is a great catch, When I get back to Connie I will try it.
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Der Alte Rentner no wonder you did not know what they were, to me, they looked like pole holders, to a seaman like yourself they would be stanchions. I suspect they are there to prevent the fisherman from falling into the water wells that hold the herring. I have not permanently placed the framework that goes around the water wells and supports the wheelhouse but I have mocked this u to show the stanchions and their purpose. The wheelhouse still needs, the window frames, windows, roof and door, but they have to stay off until complete the interior of the wheelhouse. Progress is slow but sure. The wheelhouse was tricky. The angles on it require that you sand the connecting edges to a 45 degree angle.
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Well it took me 4 days to complete the pins and rings, a a fifth of Belvenie Scotch. When completed there were only 5 extras so be very careful not to loose any. Four of the pins had no hole and could not be used. Once done I painted them black. Once they were dry I inserted them in the drilled holes. in the process some of the paint came off, so I touched them up again. I should have delayed putting in the pole holders until all the pins were in, the pole holders make it difficult to put pins in near them.
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