woodartist
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Everything posted by woodartist
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I am rigging my first boat, Lady Isabelle. It does not have a lot of rigging but I have no idea where to begin but thought I would start with the double blocks. The blocks need a circle of rope that can attach to a hook on one end. How do you make that circle? On others you need a line that runs to another block. How do you secure the block in place. It looks line line is wrapped around its self but how is that accomplished. I know this is ultra basic but I have tried to do this for hours with no success. Is there a manual or book that has those basics? Are there videos?
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Thanks, the boat builders here are awesome. I read it every day. Without their experience, expertise and guidance, I would have quit long ago.
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Where did you find your proportional dividers? I have been looking for a pair but the only ones I see on ebay are $100 plus.
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The sails arrived this morning ad I started tapering the masts as per the plans. I started with the main mast which was square walnut. I was using the mast ring piece to determine if I had got it narrow enough. Some how in the process I lost the mast ring piece. I searched for two hours and did not find it. So I decided I would try and make a replacement. I got the smallest washers I could find. I had to drill the center of the larger washer out to get it to match the size in the plans. I clamped the washer in a vice grip, then put the vice grip in my wood vice to keep it secure. I will need to paint it black but it will work. not as elegant as the brass mast ring but it will perform the same function. Now back to tapering.
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Lady Issabelle is done until the sails arrive. I did not use the wood slings/for the bow sprint mast or the aft spar. Instead I made a metal ring that secures the spars. I have not tapered the spars yet. This has bee a really fun build. Can not wait for the sails and the chance to rig my first boat.
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I have installed the pins needed for installing the sails. I first drilled the holes and found that the easiest way for installing the tiny pieces was to use the pin insertion tool to grasp them and to put a drop of ca on the tip before inserting.
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The parts are included with the kit, but it is still challenging due to their small size and fragility.
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The steam winch completed. Some tips to make it easier: 1. sand the dowel before you cut it until the pieces fit on smoothly. It is much easier to sand while still one piece. 2. paint the pieces before assembly, then do touch up after completed. 3. after the wood circles are painted, re-drill the holes and the inserts will fit in better. 4. Do not install the top stem until after the circle inserts are completed, it is easier to be able to sit it flat when installing the inserts. 5. These inserts are fragile be careful, go slowly, and use fie tweezers to align inserts.
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Working on the steam powered winch, it is wise to paint the component pieces before starting assembly, and just do touch up painting after assembly. Be sure to sand the dowel before cutting it to the 40mm length, it is much easier to sand then cut to length. Add the brass components that are not to be painted until after the assembly, including the post which is inserted into the orange top piece. It is helpful to have the winch sit flat when inserting the 8 center pieces that are painted black. You will also likely need to re-drill the eight holes for the center pieces after painting.
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The Steering box is installed with the ropes connected to the rudder. Be very careful when installing the triangular corner in the stern. it is fragile , as can be seen I cracked it and had to reinforce it with glue on the back side but a little CA seeped thru even then.
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The rudder is in place, and the rope to the helm was threaded into the stern tiller box. Fr newbies it is important to thread the string in the back piece of the steering box before assembling the box. It is much easier that way.
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I used the same technique on Lady Isabelle, I had the same issue with tick marks. I used the protruding pin on the micrometer to due the measurement.
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Some tips for novice builders on Lady Isabelle that I learned the hard way: 1.The brass plate that goes on the bow, if you are going to paint it black, wait until it is installed with glue to
paint, drilling the holes for the pins and the hammering of the pins ruins the paint, also the pins are too long at the top of the bow, you need to cut about 1/8" off the pins and it will fine. 2. Go thru all the instructions and identify which brass parts will need to be painted black. It is much easier to spray paint them when they are still connected to the brass plate card. Remove those brass parts that you do not want painted black while they are attached to the brass card before you paint the remainder of the parts. 3.Put the string thru the back of the stern steering box before you assemble the box. 4. Before you paint the bow, put pins in the three holes that will hold the little brass plate. the holes are so small that they disappear when painted. Also if you have sanded the bow the pins may be too long and will stick out the other side and will nee to be trimmed. 5. Before you start putting the 50+ rib pieces on, cover the two large openings on the main deck. I dropped one off the tweezers and it fell into the space and became attached somewhere on the inner hull so I had to make one from the edge of the wood pair card piece. I am sure that there will be more tips I learn the hard way before I am finished.
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The painting is finished, I sprayed the rust below the waterline, then used a brush to paint the white stripe, added the rubbing rails, the brush painted the black, finished the area above the rails with pine green. Trying to decide whether to also use pine green on the interior sides and contrast that with the natural wood look for the posts and rails.
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Cherry carves very well, holds detail. is hard to crush, and is not prone to splitting. Below are two carvings I did in cherry.
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Motored Syren Rope Rocket (Modification)
woodartist replied to modeller_masa's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
amazing to see such craftsmanship. impressive!! -
I have really enjoyed The Vanguard kit for Lady Isabelle. The fit is perfect and the instructions complete. Chris is awesome. Looks like you have made a great start. I look forward to watching your progress.
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I have painted the hull below the waterline. It has five coats with sanding between each coat. Next is the white line above the waterline and painting the rudder.
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I really like the GoodFilla! It is water-based, drys quickly, sands easily and really seeps into deep narrow holes. I put it on with a stiffle paint brush to be ensure it gets in every crack. I comes in a multiple colors to match the wood type. I used the "cherry" for the pear wood supplied on my Lady Isabelle kit and it matched perfectly.
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- Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
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I improvised a large paper cup to use to mark the waterline. I used the calipers to measure where the line was on the plans and centered that distance on the paper cup. I used my power carver to center the hole in the cup to the size of the pencil. I re-checked the starting and ending point with the calipers after I drew in the line for both sides of the hull. I had my daughter hold the boat steady on the plastic base provided, which was necessary to get the line accurate. I hope to get it painted tomorrow.
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To position the straps I inserted a pin in one of the holes in the strap and pulled it out after I had one of the pins nailed in place. I tried to glue the plate in place and then nail but I could not get it perfectly centered on the holes, so I temporarily pinned it and then nailed it in place and put a drop of CA on afterwards. The acetone does remove the glue but it will tarnish the brass if it gets on the brass. That may not matter if you intend to paint it. I used a Q tip to put the acetate on.
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The second planking is complete and I have filled the gaps and sanded, then filled the gaps and sanded and then filled the gaps and sanded. It is smooth and the 400 grit final sanding and no gaps. Started finishing the rudder. The pins in the rudder are1.5mm. It was a challenge. I had a little glue over run on one of the clamps. I will use a little acetone to remove it when I finish the other side.
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I would like to see St. Roch, a Canadian Mounted Police schooner, the first boat to circumnavigate North America, and the second to Navigate the Northwest Passage.
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Finished the second planking on one side of hull, about 1/3 of opposite side completed. Using the super glue pen is an improvement. Much less mess. Still need to fill gaps with wood filler and sand. But looking better already.
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Thanks for the suggestion on using Gorilla Super Glue Gel. I got some and it is so much easier to use, using the squeeze handles give a measured amount of gel.
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