realworkingsailor

As a hobbyist and a former Great Lakes mariner, I’ve made use of their services on a few occasions. I found it to be a great way to order stuff up from the US, and save a ton of $$ on postage (and sometimes other… uh….  fees 😉).
 
Andy

Neat looking figures! My only observation, as a somewhat experienced seafarer, that doesn’t look to be a particularly tenable position for the telescope. It wouldn’t take much of a roll to have it leave the table and land with a crash… 
Perhaps a set of dividers, or other navigational instruments might be safer!
 
Andy

As a hobbyist and a former Great Lakes mariner, I’ve made use of their services on a few occasions. I found it to be a great way to order stuff up from the US, and save a ton of $$ on postage (and sometimes other… uh….  fees 😉).
 
Andy

1:10 Turbofan Engine
Teching
Catalogue #33ED3479934
Available from EngineDIY for $999.99USD (minus discount)
 

A turbofan or fanjet is a type of air-breathing jet engine that is widely used in aircraft propulsion. The word "turbofan" is a combination of the preceding generation engine technology of the turbojet, and a reference to the additional fan stage added. It consists of a gas turbine engine which achieves mechanical energy from combustion, and a ducted fan that uses the mechanical energy from the gas turbine to force air rearwards. Thus, whereas all the air taken in by a turbojet passes through the combustion chamber and turbines, in a turbofan some of that air bypasses these components. A turbofan thus can be thought of as a turbojet being used to drive a ducted fan, with both of these contributing to the thrust.

Animation of a 2-spool, high-bypass turbofan 
A. Low-pressure spool
B. High-pressure spool
C. Stationary components
1. Nacelle
2. Fan
3. Low-pressure compressor
4. High-pressure compressor
5. Combustion chamber
6. High-pressure turbine
7. Low-pressure turbine
8. Core nozzle
9. Fan nozzle
 
The turbofan was invented to improve the fuel consumption of the turbojet. It achieves this by pushing more air, thus increasing the mass and lowering the speed of the propelling jet compared to that of the turbojet. This is done mechanically by adding a ducted fan rather than using viscous forces by adding an ejector, as first envisaged by Whittle.
(Information abridged from Wikipedia)
 
 
The kit
This is a large and heavy kit. It's also very expensive and I make no secret of this. The box with contents, weighs in at about 5kg, and the completed model at around 4kg. In all, there's over 1000 parts, including the various fittings of course. That product box is extremely sturdy and takes a real effort to get that lid from the base. You can get an idea of the size of this kit with my magnifying visor sat on top. The engine seems to be based on the CFM International LEAP turbofan engine, as fitted to the Boeing 737 MAX and Airbus A320 Neo. The finished model also features a test stand and a throttle unit with full engine sound. 

 
Here are a few more specs, supplied by Teching.
Material: Aluminum alloy + Stainless Steel Model: Dual Rotor Turbofan Engine Scale: 1/10 Model Length: 380mm Fan Diameter: 165mm Number of Parts: 1000+PCS (Components: 400+PCS, Screws & Nuts: 600+PCS) Drive System: Motor-driven Battery: 3.7V 800mAh Lithium Battery Power Charging Cable: DC 5V USB Cable Charging Time: 3 hours Battery Life: 1 hour (at Full Charge) Assembly Time: Approx. 10 hours
 
Underneath that heavy lid are several trays of parts, all numbered so you know exactly where to find the parts you need. A number of parts are fairly similar, so it's important you use the correct ones as you go. On top of the parts trays is a clear acetate sheet to make sure nothing comes loose, and lastly, the colour instruction manual is provided.

 
 
Here you can see just how those parts are supplied. Many smaller parts, such as stator blades etc. are packed into clear wallets and then sat within their numbered recesses. One point to note here is that there is a little fine, slightly powdery debris on many parts, from that foam. I found that blowing the parts with an aerosol cleaner helped first...especially as the construction is precision. 
 
Tray 1

 
 
Tray 2

 
 
Tray 3

 
 
Tray 4

 
 
 
Tray 5

 
 
I've now laid out the trays so you can see the parts a little clearer. the main parts have either an anodised, dipped, or painted finish. All of the finishes are robust and not easily marked. All of the black parts you see are also metal. The only plastic parts I believe I encountered are the clear viewing windows for the various cutaway sections. 





 
 
As you can see, many of the cutout have more than one part, but all are so carefully packed that nothing whatsoever is marked or damaged. 

 
 
Instructions
This comes in the forum of a full colour, glossy 124 page publication, which details every single stage in wonderful clarity, with sometimes more than one single image to show a particular stage. The manual is published in both English and Chinese text, and not only includes the instructions, but also a little about the engine, some safety notes, and also a full colour parts key at the end of the manual. I didn't find a need for the latter, but it's there if you feel you need to reference it.












 
 
Tools
The model is also supplied with a set of tools. I did have problems with the 1.5mm hex driver as the head sheared off. That's no problem for me anyway as I wanted to use my own Wera tools. Some small spanners are also supplied.

 
Fittings
Two plastic compartment boxes are included. As well as the screws, bolts, nuts etc, the boxes also contain bearings and other parts specific to this particular kit. All in metal. 


 
 
Conclusion
You really have to like assembling mechanical models to get the most from this kit. There are LOTS of nuts and bolts to tackle and you'll need a reasonable bench area to store the various subassemblies as the build commences. The model is all metal in construction (apart from the clear viewing panels) and is something that really should not be rushed, and why would you want to if you are paying a premium for such a project. Tools are supplied with the kit, although my 1.5mm hex driver head did shear off and I continued with my Wera hex head set for most things. This is very much a precision kit and the excellent instructions need to be followed at each step. There are more than enough images for you to get orientation correct, and the text is very easy to follow, with no ambiguity. The only thing I would suggest is that you get a little model grease for the various gears, and a little lube oil for the bearings. The kit does have a space in the accessories box for that lube, but it's not included in the UK shippings, for reasons I don't know. If you've ever wanted to buy a model engine of a turbofan, then it gets no better than this one. 
 
So what do I think of the kit in terms of build-ability? Well, we'll look at this over the next posts I make, culminating in a full build and video test startup. 
 
My sincere thanks to Lucas at EngineDIY for the opportunity to build this remarkable kit on Model Ship World. To buy directly, click the link at the top of this article.

To get a nice fat discount on this kit, use the voucher code JAMESHATCH at checkout.
 
...TO BE CONTINUED.
 

 

Excellent observation.  The figures are awesome, but the telescope would not be sitting like that (at least not for long).

Neat looking figures! My only observation, as a somewhat experienced seafarer, that doesn’t look to be a particularly tenable position for the telescope. It wouldn’t take much of a roll to have it leave the table and land with a crash… 
Perhaps a set of dividers, or other navigational instruments might be safer!
 
Andy

Neat looking figures! My only observation, as a somewhat experienced seafarer, that doesn’t look to be a particularly tenable position for the telescope. It wouldn’t take much of a roll to have it leave the table and land with a crash… 
Perhaps a set of dividers, or other navigational instruments might be safer!
 
Andy

Neat looking figures! My only observation, as a somewhat experienced seafarer, that doesn’t look to be a particularly tenable position for the telescope. It wouldn’t take much of a roll to have it leave the table and land with a crash… 
Perhaps a set of dividers, or other navigational instruments might be safer!
 
Andy

But I bet you make them in your head, right?

The upper wing is now mounted. It wasn't as troublesome as I feared it might be to get all eight struts in place.
 

 
The model is now sufficiently far enough along to execute recon missions over the dog while making airplane noises. What? Are you telling me you don't make airplane noises?
 

Changes to figures made, I said keep the epaulettes as they are shown on the source pictures my carver used.

Ammo.... Not completely happy but it's not too bad and will hardly, if at all, be visible, but I know it's there so worth the effort.

 
Bombs are in the bay.
 

 
Seatbelts are attached 
 

 
Not too far off putting the fuselage together now.
 

 
Slow progress, in fits and starts, but still very enjoyable. 
 

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Yes, actually!
 
BTW, you probably already know this, but Tom Grigat built that very kit in one of his Modeling in Motion videos.

Thank You...
 
With the catheads completed I could finish some inboard details at the bow in preparation for fitting the bulwarks with the pissdale and other stuff.
 
In this photo you can see the the waterway was added around the perimeter of the fcastle deck.  It was done exactly like the other decks.  
 
Then I I added the final breast hook at the bow.  This was done just like the others on the deck below it.  It was laser cut in two pieces.  I made sure to bevel the inside edge so I got a tight fit against the bulwarks and stem.  I added nine bolts that stood proud using 30lb black fishing line.   Then it was painted red.
 

 
Lastly,  I added the thin an delicate molding strip on the inboard bulwarks.   If this is made too heavy it would just look bad.  So I made sure it was very thin and not too wide.  Its a nice feature on the model actually.  You guys wont have to worry about scraping the fancy profile into a strip of wood.  I laser cut these for you with the profile.  But I didnt use wood.  I laser cut them from very thin syre-nite acrylic.  This stuff is awesome really.  It is very, very flexible.  And we will need it to be, which is why I chose to use it.  It bends so nicely without breaking.   We will need that flexibility when it has to go around the top edge of the pissdales which are up next.   I would just recommend that you round off the top edge to make it look like a nice fancy molding strip.  Just be careful and use a fine 400 grit sandpaper.  Its beige to match the wood color but I could have actually laser cut them in red.  But for those of you who want to go natural without paint I am using the stuff that looks like boxwood.  The same stuff I used for the stern lights etc.   So you must paint it red before you glue it on the hull.  
 
It runs from the aft side of the cat tail and along the sheer in the waist.  It continues all the way back to the poop bulkhead.  
 

You really must try and keep a nice run with this molding.  It should be a graceful run from bow to stern without any dips or waviness.  Follow the run of your inboard planking.  the top of the molding is flush with the top of the cap rail along the waist.
 

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Does this help any:
 
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf

There’s a bit of a rigging diagram.
 
Andy

Quite possibly the worst rigging diagram I have ever had to work with. Note that one end or the other end, sometimes both ends, of each line is not shown. And this is pretty much the only rigging diagram in the kit.
 

 
In photos, most of the bracing wires appear to be doubled. In some instances it looks like the pairs were wrapped in some kind of material. The upshot is that the cables look thicker. I will duplicate this effect by using wire for the rigging instead of EZ-Line. That means the technique will be a little different.
 
Here's the forest of struts mounted to the lower wing.
 

So I got a bronze for my little French torpedo boat; a ship won best in show!