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Rowboat

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    rc helis and planes, miniature model painting, model boats golf, sports, guitar, board games

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  1. Hello again, I have another questions, this concerns the sails. I see lots of sewing on those sails, mine have none. Did you sew all the sails are did the kit come that way? Thanks, --Rowboat
  2. Hello mikiek, Glad to see you are still posting here. πŸ˜€ I've been watching and initially thought you were done posting, happily I see you are not. I'm building the same ship though there are some changes in my model. Currently at the point of building and attaching the cannon carriages and hardware. I am trying to figure out how you wrapped the rope that connects the 2 blocks on each side of the carriage to the hull. Did you just wind the rope around and glue it or is there a special knot to achieve that look. Keep posting lots of pics, and close ups, they are beneficial to us newbies 😁 Also your work looks amazing. The quality of the build πŸ‘πŸ‘. I hope to achieve that level of detail and quality.. I actually like the extra hanging ropes you put on your model, I'm going to use that idea on mine. I'll follow your suggestions and add them near the final build. I'll keep watching your posts for more input. --Rowboat
  3. Started working on the cannon carriage design. Here's the beta version. Here is the beta viewing of my cannon build. I will put the original kit (left) picture along with what I'm working on (right). After purchasing a few cannon kits I figured out how to solve my dislike, brass wheels and less robust cannon carriage. Turns out the kit that came with the model has a thickness of 1.9mm and my beta model uses 2.3mm. The difference is barely noticeable for one piece of wood as shown here. However, when the entire carriage is built that extra .4mm, per piece of wood, makes the carriage robust looking. Is it to scale , not sure but it's what I like. I built the base, sides, axles, wedge that helps raise/lower the cannon angle. I pulled the wheels from 2 different cannon kits. The cannon is from the original kit. The axles are approximately 1.7mm diameter. The front wheels are 8mm and the back are 5mm. The sides are 22.4mm in length and 9.5mm tall. Took a number tries to find the right thickness of the wood. Ended up planing down 6mm to 2.3mm poplar wood. Not quite done with the design....... -- Rowboat
  4. Looks like in my excitement I used the 5mm blocks with the 5mm wire. Guess that's why it fit so well. I did attempt to wrap the 4mm blocks with the 5mm wire, broke all of them. The 5mm blocks are 3.5mm wide and the 4mm blocks are 2.5mm wide. In the pics below the broken blocks are on the left. I did order this 30 gauge wire which is about 26mm. Waiting for it to arrive.
  5. @ccoyle , Did not know that using wire to strope the blocks was not replicating actual practice. Spent the time and found this, https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/articles/woodenblocks/woodenblocks.htm . So now I know ... and I thought my learn'in days were over πŸ˜…
  6. Found the following, it's .20mm but should work fine... and it's brass not copper.
  7. About to start rigging some 4mm 1 hole blocks. The manual shows .25mm copper wire (could be brass I suppose) that wraps around the block. The wire I received is .50mm non-copper. This is to thick to wrap the 4mm blocks. Where can I purchase .25mm soft wire, copper or not? I found some on eBay from Constructo but shipping is about $25 US dollars for a $4 item. Plus shipping is β€œestimated” over a month from now.
  8. Work continues, slowly ... Built the chain plates and deadeyes but did not glue them down. recommendations is to wait till the shr ouds are attached. Fairly easy work, main thing is to keep the center hole at the lowest level. Cut the excess wire and added some steps on the hull. Added a bunch of pin rails to the inside of the model. Doing busy work building deck features. Not to difficult, just ran out of grating so there's that. Did not like my first attempt at the beak heads. The first attempt ended with one side being larger than the other. Also they were to big and I had to angle them so as not to cover the anchor holes. Here's the first attempt. Cut out the beakheads and the new ones look much better to me. Made a jig out of wood for the curved piece. First I used a piece of wire to get the curve, then transferred the curve to a wood block, cut the curve out using a jig saw making 2 pieces and finally put in some wet wood and clamped the jig together. Will continue on more deck features this coming week... Have a good day and stay safe. Rowboat out.
  9. @maniac, What questions do you have? @ccoyle, Thanks Chris, I definitely like the 3 different colors on the ship. At that phase where I can stain them. I bought some shellac spray that I plan on trying out.
  10. Work on the ship has slowed do to "honey do lists" or as millennials may say, HDL. Cut to length the cat rails and drilled out some holes. On the end with a single hole I'll be inserting a wood pin to bind the two pieces together. The 4 holes are close together but a close up will show their is separation between them. These pics are a bit blurry but they show the separation of the holes. I was trying to use one hand to hold the rail while taking the picture with the other, harder to do then I thought. Since I'm posting blurry pictures πŸ˜…, heres one of the cat rails being put in place and how I use a stick of wood to make the wood pin to hold the butt joints together. Next I'll start on the channels for the chainplates. Here's one ready to be attached to the hull. The timber is curved on one side to match up to the ship's hull at the point where it will be placed. Before gluing them to the hull I drilled two holes in each one and then drilled corresponding holes on the ship. Put a small nail in the holes and then cut off the rest leaving about 1/2 inch, which will go into the ship hull. This should add some extra support. Looks like the next few weeks will be spent making and attaching deck pieces. Rowboat out.
  11. As I have mentioned before, the model I have did not have a manual, but I was gifted one later in the build. The manual, sometimes, is different than the build plans. This is the case with the beakhead. Here's a picture of how the model's beakhead should look. Looking at the image above, the two metal parts are the top head rail and the lower head rail. If you look closely on the stem you can see 2mm wire, this represents the cheek rails. The cheek knees, where the cheek rails connect at the bow, seem to be made of wood. These parts make up the beakhead for this model. However, the manual is completly different, there are no metal parts or wire making up the beakhead, everything is wood. I decided to go with the manual first because the metal head rails are brittle and break easily ( yep, I did that πŸ™„ ) and secondly I like the manual's look better. Lastly, the manual's build better supported the stem, which I've already broken countless times 😑. The cheek knees were made following the manual's instructions. Next, I needed to fix my broken stem. Here I added the top portion of the stem but still need to add filler to support the upper cheek rail. Next I mapped out where I wanted the cheek rails to go, somewhat mirroring the manual. Made a few jigs, and added the cheek rails. Next, build the head rails, one on each side. The manual shows the head rail with a timber rail attached. This is my design, using the metal parts from the kit to add support. The metal part will eventually get painted and will be the side that points toward the ship, the wood side is what will be displayed. Waiting for the head rails to dry. That's about it for now. Later, Have a great Memorial Weekend, stay safe.
  12. Started work on the poop deck. Added the rails and railings. First measured, cut, sanded.... Prepared the ship .... ... finally glued everything. Also attached the back of the poop deck. I'm liking the docking station I built, stabilizes the boat while working on it. Easy to take off and put back on which I had to do when I installed the rudder. From the view below, the wales show that I need more experience on the planking the aft section. I don't think you're supposed to see the ends of the wales. Not sure what I could have done as the aft section had a 2mm first plank and then a .5 mm second plank whereas the wales are 2mm on top of the 2mm 1st planking. So I'm looking at a 1.5 mm variance. The rudder took a little damage upon instillation, will need to repair that. The attached rudder handle. Next step, the ship's beakhead.
  13. Didn't mean to cut that last post so abruptly, something came up. To continue .... fitting of the masts. Not to bad, I'll glue them in later when it's appropriate. I did spend some time working on the trestle trees. The plans called for drilling out the ends for some eyebolts. I did split the end of one of the separators but glue resolved the problem. The plan is different than how the manual shows them made. In the manual all three separators are the same length and they have holes drilled through them for rigging lines. If anyone remembers I started this build without the manual ( and lots of missing pieces), I was gifted a manual from a fellow ship builder.πŸ‘ Their model must be slightly different than mine, so I need to be wary of just following the manual. Here's a pic showing the issue. Those rigging lines are tied nicely, I need to see if there are instructions on how to do this. I'm accepting any offers on knot tying tips .... πŸ˜‰ I think next steps are building rails on the poop deck. Will need to mill the wood for that first. Rowboat out.
  14. Chris and Sam, Thanks for the input on cannons and their carriages. I will attempt to make some wheels, axle and a little redesign and see what it will look like. Currently though I'm building the masts. This time I just used a drill and sandpaper as opposed to the lathe. Turns out the drill was much faster. On the masts my kit was missing the round pieces that meet where the deck and the mast join. Ended up making my own, to get the center I just used the original to mark the circle and then drilled pilot holes all around the marking. Used the xacto knife to cut the center out and sanded. Mine is the one on the square between 5 and 6. Test fitting shows a good job. On to the mast holes for the ship. I initially pre-drilled small holes when the decking went on so I know where they go. Not sure when is the correct time to drill the mast holes completely, I just chose this time. I used a drill press for accuracy. First I started with a level surface. Then I added the ship. Then I crossed my fingers and drilled. The blue tape on the drill bit is my mark as to the farthest I want to drill.

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