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mikegr

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Everything posted by mikegr

  1. Done with the railings, everywhere except the area around the 3 main mast and the rear crane. But if I put them now it will be harder to work with the rigging and the winches. But its to early for this job anyway. So I will focus my work somewhere else
  2. Next was the AA main battery. First thing was to make the base including anti slip surface and few other details. I made it in two pieces, the base and the supportive bulge Next was the guns. Not many options to improve the standard ones so I had to designed from 0. After several attempst they came out with good detail and after a light priming to avoid hidding micro details they were put in place
  3. Thanks This hobby becomes more complicated. Apart painting skills required, PE handling, rigging, soldering and other capabilities are needed.
  4. Next was the other funnel. It broke during removing it so I designed a new one and added the necessary details. After a primer coat both funnel and main stack were painted For the bridge as you may noticed at first the top part is missing. After days of studying i found some drawings as well as a 3d model of Myoko at a later stage after modernization. I manage to design several parts of the bridge separately in order to save printing time. After some test they fitted quite well. Not sure how much historically accurate but this old kit is not accurate either plus I added some detail. Finally after priming and painting I dry fitted all the items together and overall the look was satisfactory
  5. The Funnel I have some PE to enhance it but there are terribly delicate and hard to glue it, I'm not feel ready yet to use it So I decide to use it 0.3mm wire both for sides and the cap. Some pieces were as short as 3 mm. Then I had to bend them slightly. The final result after some primer application
  6. The one I got is in 1:150 https://www.super-hobby.gr/products/Ships-railing-window-type.html
  7. I glued the AA guns, this model has 8 additional type 96 AA guns but these are double. I strip off almost anything to work better, some pieces left on hull need to cut them.
  8. My PE set for triple AA guns are a nightmare. I designed my own, to replace the standard ones. That 2 cent coin looks so huge.
  9. It seems that Takao class is using a different type of torpedo tubes and the shape of the room is similar. This confused me a bit The Haguro class uses a different weapon and the torpedo "cave" is just a rectangle I ended up removing the wire and add some putty before paint it
  10. At my stash I had IJN catapults from Tom's Model works. They were delicate and fragile to handle. After painting I test fitted them
  11. I had to enlarge the holes on the hull to fit in the torpedo tubes I got from my spares. Not sure if these are Japanese but once get in they won't be very much visible. Torpedoes are about 7 meters than means 1cm in 1/700. I hope I didnt make it oversized
  12. The next step was the main guns. I used needles of various diameters. Considering the effort wasn't that great improvement in appearance. But I want to enhance my skills which has been diminished because of spending many hours on 3d design. Later I added blast bags made by putty and painted over with gesso for extra thickness. Finally I printed two masts for the turrets and made a test fitting. Because of the fragility of the masts the guns will be Installed at the final steps
  13. First rebuilt is the deck. Its came out pretty well even I sprayed with an oil paste-thick color for first time. The bow had enough detail, I just painted the anchor chain. The anti skip surface is a terrible overscale though.
  14. I made a new base, I want to have a natural effect as much as possible. Sprayed with primer and dark blue. I fitted the sub and filled the surrounding gap with putty then thick gel. Kit was given a starboard list
  15. Small update is to replace the railings with PE ones. Not the best quality, too thin. But the difference is noticeable
  16. I want to build a nice diorama. But feel lazy and running out of space. After research, I found a sea template file. After few hours of process, it turned to a printable seabed suitable to work with. It was printed in two pieces and glued together. Most u boat layouts out there are in rectangle space but because of limitations both in available space and printing capacity it came at 7 cm wide After a more digging with a dremel and two layers of gesso it looked like this I think the stern need to go lower a bit more to highlight the "U boat riding the waves" scene. Then paint the base with basic blue, attach the kit by filling the gap with a material and go for the final details.
  17. Thanks for the comment Indeed I used a new material, fake hair. Got a got a huge amount for 1.99 and most important the thickness is ideal for both 1/350 and 1/700. Very thin but quite visible because of the black color.
  18. I came across this model randomly, thought it as a quick build as I'm not fan of WWII submarines. However I decided to make a rough sea diorama even I have limited space available. So assembly was done. Next was the paint fading effect. I sprayed vertically the hull with light gray, then dark again, light etc. About 4-5 times. Then acrylic pencil was used for salt effect as well as rust effect in 3 tones. Because of the rough hull texture and the lines, the effects were applied easily and successfully. Next day added a bit or rigging. Lastly, I sprayed over a glossy varnish as this is going to be a very wet boat
  19. Here https://www.rcsubs.cz/index.php/photo-etched-sets/63-sets-for-kit-viic-viic41-1-350-revell There ate two full versions for Revell C and C41 editions
  20. For those into subs there is a Czech specialized seller, from little 1/700 models to 1/72 RCs as well as PE set for every kit. The one available for my kit is far better that Eduards Anyway, one AA gun was lost. I designed it on my printer. The barrels were made of hard paintbrush hair. Paint was done by my enamel without primer. Little job done today but nice detail added.
  21. Priming with airbrush began. Or I thought so. After half a bottle spended, airbrush would only spit paint, or spray on watery consistency. For a 2 minute job it took me two evenings to solve it. Steps taken. -all gun parts clraned -needle changed twice -nose changed -Airbrush changed None of the above worked. Miraculously after changing the nozzle cup and polishing the needle tip with a rotary tool airbrush worked like new at even lower pressures.By then, deck has been done by brush already. I focused on the tower. Using a low rpm rotary tool again I cut the fragile pieces. This thing is amazing useful for 8$. There's no available PE set the mini one from Eduard doesn't worth 16$ nor the 10 days waiting for delivery. I had to improvise. With a mini file set I trimmed the railings and removed some imperfections Most noticeable detail was the radar. This was replaced by a IJN type 21 radar in 1/700. But it was 1mm wider so I cut 0.5mm from each side. The result was nice, made me almost happy. Ι do better with PE than painting.
  22. My first brand new ship kit assemby after 30+ years. I am taking it easy nowadays so a 35 piece model is all I need.
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