KrisWood
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Everything posted by KrisWood
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Life came up so I need to put my project on hold for a while. As I wait for such a time as I can start working on this project again I'd like to put forth a question: How hard is it to harvest modeling wood from natural sources? I assume the old Navy board modelers before mass production must have gotten their materials from somewhere... I'm my yard I've got the dead English boxwood I'd previously mentioned, half a cherry tree that fell on my house from the neighbor's yard last summer (which he helpfully cut into firewood for me and is now stacked under my eaves) and dozens more young cherry trees as much as ten feet tall which continuously spring up from the roots of another neighbor's cherry tree. With this abundance of free wood, I should be able to build a fleet of ships, but how does one turn a tree or shrub into miniature planks? I'm considering building a miniature sawmill... I'm already thinking the boxwood would be best carved rather than milled, so would be better for the decorations, but the cherry from both sources I'm not so sure. -
There haven't been any Staples in my area in years but Office Depot provides the same services. I am planning on doing that in the next few days. Taping these tiled pages together is a pain!
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The jig half of the plans won't fit on my office floor while the planks and keel half are there so I'll take a photo after the first half is aligned and taped and cut away from the jig half. 🙂
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Printed plans (tiled but not taped together yet) this time with a printed scale to verify it's all the right size! I've got some work cut out for me here...
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Hi @bigpetr, While trying to figure out how to print the plans on paper in the first place, a year ago or more now I think, I had changed a number of print settings in both Rhino and Acrobat Reader. I changed them all back to the defaults except for two things: Print scale in Rhino (1:25 instead of the default 1:1) Print in Greyscale in Acrobat Reader Once I had everything except those two set back to the defaults, it printed correctly the first try. Because I do not own a large format printer I had to print it tiled as a poster in Acrobat Reader. I'll try taping together my tiled pages and building from that. If that still doesn't work (mostly due to inevitable errors in the angle at which I tape them together) I'll take my plans to the local printshop and have them print it at blueprint scale (they go up to ARCH-E 36"x48") and buy a lot of carbon paper to transfer it to the wood. I hope to have updates for you all in the near future!
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Btw, for resources on viking sails and rigging, the best source I know of is here: https://www.academia.edu/37851682/Vikingetidens_sejl_form_og_proportion
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Hi @bigpetr, Have you made any progress lately? It's been a while! I'm eager to see what you do next on this beauty!
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I've been using the Rhinoceros 3D trial version. It expires tomorrow on this computer, but I managed to print out all my plans at the correct scale, so I'm back in business! I don't have much poplar but I'm going to try building most of the keel with that. We'll see how it goes!
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@Larry Cowden, I second @Jaager's suggestion that you scrub your email from your post. I sent you an email, so you no longer need it there anyway. It's too easy for identity thieves and other ne'er do well's to make use of when posted on a public forum.
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@Larry Cowden, Thank you for all your comments! The only thing I've ever done in AutoCAD is export drawings to other formats. Yes, Rhino can natively export to AutoCAD dwg format. I think you may be correct about the diagonal frames resisting the vertical action of waves. Viking ships were built to flex with waves, which is why the frames are lashed to the planks rather than nailed. I wish I was better at CAD work, regardless of the program used, because I'm really struggling to draw the parts that are not planar, like the frames. @Jaager, I'm currently in the process of drawing all the parts I'd missed with my previous computer's Rhino trial. Once I'm done with that I'll be getting back into the wood. I am currently using basswood for my ship model and plywood for the building jig. There will be no plywood on the model itself, though I have some poplar I was thinking of using for the frame timbers and meginhufr (equivalent of a main wale on later ships). What is it about basswood that makes it unsuitable? What species of wood would you recommend instead of Basswood? Also, I had a boxwood bush die in my yard last summer during the drought, and I'm thinking about pulling it out and cutting it into frame timbers with my dremel saw attachment. I could have swore I'd read somewhere that boxwood makes for good ship modeling wood.
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Hi all! Since my last post, I've got Rhino working on my personal laptop and have been hard at work drawing the few remaining pieces before going back to printing again. The rudder frame was by far the single most complicated part to figure out in 3D in this entire project. Sooo many complex shapes! I've got a couple more parts to figure out in 3D before going back to printing. Stay tuned!
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Hi @Cathead, Good idea! I looked it up and the Office Depot near my house does same day blueprint printing, so that might work. Alternatively it occurred to me that if I export my plans as one really really REALLY big PDF I can print all the pages at once with the same scale settings. Then it would at least be to scale with itself. It's not as big an issue that it be exactly mathematically to 1:25 scale with the actual ship as that all the parts be to scale with each other. I think I'll try printing the pages together in one big PDF first, and if that doesn't work out I'll try Office Depot.
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It's been slow going these last few weeks. I've started a new job and it's taking up all my time and concentration. I've been gradually getting parts cut out, little by little, and assembling them. I accidentally glued the aft stem at the wrong angle, tilting too far aft. While attempting to pry it loose with a sharp knife, I accidentally snapped my keel in half. 🤣 Well, that'll teach me not to try that again. So I reprinted my keel templates, cut them all out of wood, and lined them up with the parts I'd already cut out but hadn't glued yet. They didn't fit! 😢 I carefully double checked all measurements and found that when I'd printed the templates on paper, the scale of each print was very slightly different, within a range of up to 2mm over the length of the ship. Well, that's a problem. That means nothing is going to line up perfectly! My question now is, how can I print paper templates at a consistent scale??? I'm already setting Adobe reader to print at 100% scale / actual size for my 1:25 Rhino drawings. I'd assumed that meant the resulting prints would all be at the same scale but obviously that is not so. I'm stumped and would greatly appreciate any advice for printing consistent scales between drawings, especially for the parts that consist of multiple pages taped together when they're longer than one page.
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Looking good! I'm going to have to hurry my own project along to catch up! 😀
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I went and got more 1/32" basswood yesterday. I'm back in business! Pics to come soon.
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It turned out widening the notches on the jig was super easy, next to shrink my keel layers. XD
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I finally made more sawdust! Armed with my new plans I thought for sure this time things would work out correctly. Then I started trying to assemble my parts and ran into two terrible errors on two very important thicknesses... I misremembered my keel layers as being 1/16". They're 1/32". I don't have any 1/32" basswood long/wide enough to make some of the pieces. I'm either going to need to buy some sheets of 1/32" basswood, or I'm going to need to redraw them at 1/16" thickness. I also drew all my jig parts for 1/8" plywood, but my plywood is 1/4". This means none of the parts fit together. I'll need to either cut all the slots wider than drawn, or redraw them at 1/4". Back to the drawing board, and this time without CAD. XD
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I just did the math, I was wrong. The land on the original ship was 40mm, so at 1:25 that's 1.6mm.
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On my model, the land is about 1mm also, so I think that should work. Mine is a scale approximation of the lines from Saga Oseberg so I think it's pretty close.
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Hi @kentyler, It's been a long time since we last talked! I'm glad to see you're still working miracles in paper, and will follow this thread with great interest. Did you by chance keep photos of your gunboat Philadelphia? I found this thread by searching for that one while trying to help a friend with a paper ship modeling project. Anyway, I hope you are well, and keep up the excellent work!
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Hi @AnobiumPunctatum, Yes, I’m still planning on building up the keel out of layers. My woodworking skills are insufficient to craft angled scarfs and the T shaped wings of the keel by hand, so I’ll build them up one layer at a time and sand them down. I haven't honestly given much thought to the decorations. They are far beyond my skill level and I'm not sure how I would go about them. I'll give it my best effort, but may very well leave them out for this project. It's more important to me that this boat floats than that it be an exact replica.
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It's the end of the road for CAD work. I'll be losing access to Rhino soon, so here's the final CAD screenshot. Everything else will be photos of wood from here on out. This is the completed jig design. I'm not sure if all of it is necessary, and may not end up building it this way, but it would support both the keel and the cutout. I've also made the cutout opening wider in this version than my last screenshot. The jig height is set up so that the cutout is exactly halfway up the keel and it can be flipped over with zero change in geometry. The bulkheads will only be used in the upside down position while placing the first five strakes. After that I think the hull should be sturdy enough to flip it over and remove the bulkheads and cutout. I've never done this before so please tell me, does this sound like a sane way to build a model? Next step will be printing out all my parts and backing the files up to the cloud for when I'm able to get Rhino again some day.
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I've completed redrawing the layers of the keel and stems with the new dimensions. Now to arrange all the parts for printing on card and cutting out.
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Almost done designing the new jig... Bulkheads: False Keel: Assembled with keel in place: First five strakes: After the first five strakes are installed I will be removing the bulkheads/false keel assembly and turning it upright. Next steps will be: 1. Design the uprights that hold the keel in place 2. Design the horizontal cutout with notches for the bulkheads 3. Design the strips of wood to go on the baseboard to hold the keel in place when upright 4. Slice the keel into cross sections and scarfs so I can build it up out of layers 5. Print templates and start cutting things out of wood! I'm so close and so excited!!!
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New keel complete and ready for cutting into layers! I finally managed to get a perfect transition from T to rabbets: The trick was to toss out the cross sections from the Saga Oseberg book entirely and cut them from the keel using the inner face of the garboard strake to define the shape. It's still nearly identical to the version in the book, but much easier to model. Here's the completed keel altogether: There are no rabbets cut on the stems because they had none on them in building Saga Oseberg until each strake was attached. They connected the stems without rabbets, and then cut the rabbets while fitting each plank to the stem and stern. Next step: New smooth bulkheads per @AnobiumPunctatum's advice. I'm also going to do half as many bulkheads this time around, and only for the lower strakes. Once the lower strakes are in place I can add the frames and the rest of the hull should take shape on its own.
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