KrisWood
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The hobby shop near my home was open so I got all stocked up on thin strips of wood. I'm ready to do some serious building! 😁 -
@Cathead, that's a brilliant solution that I hadn't even thought of! I will absolutely try that. 😁 I'd read the planking tutorials on MSW but didn't really understand them until I tried pinning cardboard planks onto my bulkheads. I wonder if the model shops are reopened yet. I'm going to need more thin strips of wood!
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Minor update: I printed the planks out on heavy card stock last night and pinned them to my bulkheads. I was ~1 5/8" long on my guesstimate. I rescaled it and printed it again. I'll just keep adjusting until they fit properly on my model. Edit: In the process of pinning the planks to the bulkheads I experienced first hand something I'd read here on MSW but hadn't fully appreciated until now: Cutting planking bulkheads exactly to the line results in a 90 degree angle along the edge of the bulkhead, while the planks themselves are curved by nature, meaning the planks only touch the bulkheads at the very corner of the wood. This results in a very weak connection with the bulkhead that's supposed to be shaping the flow of the planks, and a tendency for the plank, at least in card stock, to push inward where the pin presses into the bulkhead. I'm thinking about using some wood fill left over from painting rooms in my house to add some substance to the empty space. We'll see if that even works... Next time I'll cut my bulkheads larger, or put them on the other side of the station lines so that they just need to be filed down on the side that's too large.
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Random tangent, my 9yr old daughter is watching a kids history TV show that is currently going over the Vikings and they've got Erik the Red sailing on the Oseberg ship as their generic Viking ship. "Daddy! He's got your boat!!!"
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The rib shapes are the part I want to make sure are aligned correctly. In Viking ships, the shape of the ribs are defined by the planks, not the other way around. Therefore I need to make absolutely certain my planking bulkheads are aligned to create the correct hull shape before I can make any frame timbers.
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@Cathead, I am 99% certain I'm burning it, but I'll probably build a second model that I don't burn just to have one to keep displayed in my home (and maybe take sailing on the river nearby with the kids).
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You understood correctly. The project is my meditation on my processing of grief. My family doesn't want me to burn it though because it's going to be so pretty once it's done, so I'm very seriously considering building a second one afterward that I keep.
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I just remembered also that the garboard strake is near horizontal amidships, so I scaled the lines drawing just a hair smaller and now it lines up perfectly with the widths of both the top strake and the garboard strake just inside the lands of the planks. I think I'm ready to try a few cardboard planks.
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Hi @Cathead, Sort of. On my first attempt at this planking jig, I'd glued all the pieces to two parallel piece of scrap wood left over from when I redid the moldings in my living room. I ended up having to tear the whole thing apart when I realized things weren't lined up correctly. I don't want to repeat that process if at all possible. Remember, I'm a total newbie at model ship building and my goal, however unrealistic it may be, is to make a floating model that doesn't sink right away. To that end, I want to adhere as closely as possible to the Saga Oseberg reconstruction plans. Therefore it is very important that the planks match the reconstruction lines as closely as possible. I think I found a solution though. I remembered that the top two strakes are nearly vertical amidships, so I scaled the lines drawing to line up with the plank diagram for those two strakes. Because the plank diagram is "drawn flat", and the ship's lines are curved, they do not match exactly, nor should they, but by lining up the fore and aft ends of the strakes with the lines drawings I was able to get in the general ballpark. Then I lined up the midship station vertically with the portion of the plank it intersected and scaled it until the plank in the diagram for that strake was the same height as the strake in the lines plan. I think this should get me close enough that I can print out a few cardboard planks and see if they fit the height of the planks in my bulkheads, then fine tune it from there. Does that sound like it should work? As for the flexible material, I have a thin strip of basswood I've been using for that purpose and it looks like it curves nicely to me, so that if this model were only for display I'd be happy with where it's at right now. I'm just worried that if I make a nice looking curve that isn't the curve of the actual Saga Oseberg reconstruction, it'll sink as soon as I put it in the water.
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As I'm lining up the bulkheads it occurs to me that this would be a lot easier to fair if I had some planks to line it up with. I don't want to glue it in place before fairing it if possible. The Saga Oseberg book by Thomas Finderup has a diagram of the planks drawn flat, but it doesn't have a scale. How would you go about figuring out the correct scale? You can see the diagram in a lecture by the author in this video at 37:51 https://webtv.vikingeskibsmuseet.dk/?poditemid=40145&tagsid=121&soegeord= The image in the book is higher resolution and I've aligned my scan of it with the version in his lecture to correct any distortion from the scanning near the binding of the book. Now I just need to figure out the size at which to cut out the planks....
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Next step will be adding filler blocks to keep the bulkheads squared and at the right height. 🙂
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Finally found time to finish the notches in the bulkheads to fit them on to the false keel. 😁 All the clamps are because nothing is glued yet, but I'm excited that it's starting to look ship shaped!
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I ran out of time to finish all the bulkheads last night, but it's already soooo much better!
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Ok here's the before photos. There's an increasing gap between my keel and bulkheads with every bulkhead I add. You can't really see it in the photos but some frames are off of center by as much as a millimeter as well. I'm going to take this thing apart, add a false keel, and put it back together again.
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I did some searching on the forums here and this build gave me an idea: I'll cut a notch in each bulkhead for a "false keel" to fit my actual keel on top of. Then there's no way they can get out of alignment.
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Edit: Sorry, commented on the wrong Oseberg thread! >.< Lovely build, keep up the great work!
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I've run into a roadblock on my project. I've cut out all my planking bulkheads and started building the jig. By the time I got a quarter of the way through gluing it together I realized the problem... When I'd cut out my bulkheads I made two assumptions: That my table mounted jigsaw would cut straight lines That as long as I glued my templates to the plywood along these straight lines, all I'd have to do is stand my bulkheads up on the baseboard and everything would line up It turns out both of these are false. At various points in cutting my bulkheads out I strayed to either side of the lines, meaning my bulkheads vary in height by up to a millimeter or so (2.5 scale centimeters). This means that many of my bulkheads do not reach the keel, rendering them effectively useless because that means they'll also never touch the planks, or if they do the planks will be out of fair (it'll result in dimples in the hull if I plank it as it is right now). I figured if most of my bulkheads are as close as possible, I could correct it with some careful filing on the ones that stand the highest, to bring them all to the same level, so I kept on gluing bulkheads to the jig. That's when I made my second mistake. I started gluing bulkheads higher up when they didn't reach the keel while standing on the baseboard. This meant I was no longer using the baseboard as a reference. As I approached amidships with my bulkheads they gradually climbed higher and higher, and because I lack depth perception (my left eye cannot focus) I misjudged how the bulkheads lined up with the centerline. The higher the bulkheads got, the further to the port side they crept from the centerline. I need a better way to build a jig.... Can anyone please share example images or links to jigs using planking bulkheads for lapstrake hulls? I'm going to need to take this whole thing apart and re-glue it and I'd like to do it right on my second try.
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Last night I attempted cutting the keel as one piece of plywood. I right away encountered many many problems with it. The table mounted jigsaw has a guard arm that gets in the way of cutting anything larger than the table. The keel is far longer than the table so this means it's near impossible to cut out this way. The process involved dozens of progressively larger arcing cuts, with the first few being very shallow and having to back the work piece off the blade and cutting from the other side whenever I hit the guard arm. I ended up cutting out 2/3 of it before giving up on it completely because I ran out of time for the day / couldn't cut the midship portion at all because it's impossible to cut within a few degrees of 180º. Once I got the aft stem cut completely cut out, it was apparent why no one builds this way, not even the kit manufacturers. The 1/4 ply was VERY flimsy. It was far lighter and more flexible than my solid basswood parts, and almost as bad as balsa. When I felt it flex I realized that every kit I've seen uses a tall bulkhead-like keel to fit the frames into. I could draw a new keel in this way but really a tat point I may as well build a kit instead of a scratchbuild. A few days ago, when buying the wire for my rivets, I also picked up some more wood glue. As soon as I got home I noticed that the label clearly says not to use it on parts that can get wet. DUH! It's water based glue! I've known that since I was a kid. This should have occurred to me sooner. Even if my current basswood keel didn't have terrible scarfs, it's still held together by wood glue and would come apart eventually in water. That lead me to researching marine plywood. The regular plywood I'd bought from the hardware store would delaminate if submerged for too long. I'd decided to try making a keel out of it anyway since I'm planning on burning it, but problems 1 and 2 above were too much to make it worthwhile. I hereby speak from personal experience: A plywood keel isn't worth the time, effort, or material it takes to cut out the part! I'm going to have to get some more printer ink so I can reprint my keel templates and make a new basswood version. At least I won't have to chisel it out this time, and I learned a lot along the way. Edit/PS: Can anyone recommend an easy-to-use-for-beginners marine epoxy? I imagine the RC boat building folks must have something.
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What a great build! It's inspirational to see such quick progress. What glue are you using to join your wood to wood pieces? I'm looking to sail my Oseberg model when it's done and am researching which waterproof glues are used in RC boats at the moment (though my Oseberg won't be RC, just needs to float).
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By a bad idea, I meant catastrophically bad, as in would fall apart completely at the first stress.
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Just for fun I attempted a tiny rivet at scale today. It didn't come out very pretty but it is functional. I'm not sure it's worth it to make hundreds of these... My gas stove turned out to be hot enough to anneal the wire but not hot enough to melt it into a ball at the end. Also I did the drilling and cutting of the clink plate in the dark and cut it with wire cutters. If I do this again it'll be in the light with a chisel. 😆
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I started cutting out the planking templates today. 😁 The little table mounted jigsaw had no trouble going through 1/4" plywood. It turns out the part I was most afraid of, cutting the stair step lines of the planks, was far easier than I'd thought it would be. I did run into a few problems though. First, I forgot to mark the center line on the templates before cutting them, so aligning them is going to be a chore. Second, my base board for the planking jig is longer than my keel, but my templates are shorter than the height of my stems. I'd forgotten that I had originally intended to do this on a shorter base board with the stems hanging over the edges. Lastly, the scarfs on the stern are just awful. I was pretty proud of them when I first made them, but now that I look at them again for the first time in a week I can clearly see they're nowhere near as good as the scarfs in the keel and bow. I think I may need to cut my keel parts out yet again, but at least I have a power tool to do the cutting this time around. That said, is doing the keel and stems over again as layers of plywood for a model that isn't for display and only needs to hold together long enough to burn a bad idea? I think it might actually be stronger than these scarfs... Edit: now that I think of it, I wouldn't need to use plywood, just layers of solid wood, and build up to the thickness for each cross section. I think I might try that!
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I did some more research on making tiny rivets and it doesn't seem possible much below 1mm diameter wire (18ga). That leaves me with a question: If no one is making/using wire rivets in models at this scale, how do you all get your planks to stick together? Is it just glue holding them in place? Is the technique different for lapstrake vs frame first hulls? I'm worried that wooden trenails won't be strong enough to hold this thing together.
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