Jump to content

bigpetr

Members
  • Content Count

    90
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. After a few tests painting triangles I decided to print whole strip of colored triangles and glue it to the plank. One strip prepared for triangles, other is finished. I will weather it and add litle imperfections here and there to break the uniformity:
  2. Initialy I want to print the parts textured, but I feared that printer inks/toners fades in time. So I decided to paint it by hand. Maybe I will try to print textured parts for next ship project. It will be a chance to dive into Substance Painter. I want to learn it deeper for some time.
  3. Card is worth the try. Chalenge (for me, since I did this first time) is that you have to imitate the materials with paint. With wooden model you have it for free. One row of rivets from fore to aft takes me about hour including punching them. So to rivet outer hull takes me 17*2= 34 hours. I will interlace it with other building task like CAD work on the ship, mastfish, rudder to rest from it
  4. Thanky you Binho, . Rivets are punched with o,5mm diameter punch tool from the 0,1 mm thick paper to be in scale with real rivets and glued on the surface of the plank. I decided not to paint them with metalic color, because on ship reconstructions they are covered with protective paint and metal mostly do not shine throu. Rivets will be on the rest of the hull too. I will also do tree nails on outside hull, not inside where they were inline with the plank surface. I needed to rivet this planks first so I can paint them before instaling them. It will be easier to colour triangles be
  5. The progres was little slower lately. I had to figure out how to tackle color paint of the top plank. Top planks have rivets and are ready for paint:
  6. As stated - no shortcuts here. Especialy if you want something precise and suitable for manufacturing based on these plans. Converters are good for graphic designers who needs fast results for their art. Unfortunately It is not one-click solution for industrial/manufacturing purposes, where converted files can only serve as starting point that needs to be heavily modyfied to meet the manufacturing demands. And so it is usualy better and easier to start from scratch. One time I did this work on regular basis so believe me I tried all tools I can get my hands on to simplify this task
  7. Definitely go for a vane, I love it . Do you, knowleable guys, know if vanes were used in the end of 9th century? I would love to do vane on Gokstad ship, but as far as I know vanes were probably not used yet in this period in Norway.
  8. Thank you for link Binho, i know about it and use it a lot for planking details.
  9. Beautifful barrels. From what material were hoops on real barrels? Because of my ignorance I thought only metal was used for that.
  10. As already said, I would recomend to trace it by hand. To adjust automaticly converted curves to be useful, precise and suitable for lasercuter is usualy more work than to do it by hand. I did it many times.
  11. Thank You Louie, I like the single black strip more too, it is decent and nicely highlits the triangle strip
  12. I was thinking to make more planks with color, like this (images are ilustrational - model is from Jan van den Heuvel) or this: since there are no traces of colour pigments on the planks it could look anyhow.
×
×
  • Create New...