gulfmedic1

absolutely beautiful work

Hey everyone,
So I noticed some issues that I will need to take care of on the hull. I got with model expo and they are sending me the cut sheet so I can fair the hull. (think thats the right wording). I have looked at just about all of the build logs for his model and have learned a lot of great information. I also learned that at the end of the day its my model so I can change things with in reason to make it mine, meaning my ocd self shouldn't sweat the small stuff lol. I do work full time so it will be a slow build. I also have looked at many other model builds and have learned so much information about this hobby. I cant wait to get back to more hands on with this build. 
thanks

To answer your question about how these masts and bowsprits are put together.   All that info is out there, but these early kits simplified the details way too much.  In fact, the bowsprit on your model is missing a few things that would make the angles and rigging process go a lot smoother.  Too much to mention in a post like this.  But when you come by the shop next time I have many books on the topic and can show you.  You can take borrow them and take a look.
 
For example....if you add this small piece the jiboom would line up better with the bowsprit.    so the distance between both were the same at the arse end of the jibboom.  Do you see that little piece between the two.  Your kit probably doesnt even show it on the plans and I am certain it wasnt mentioned in those 4 pages of instructions.  But you are doing a lovely job with it.   Its just a very outdated kit which was considered a good one at that time.
 

Hey everyone, well Im back at it after a long long pause. I worked a little last night on the boat, mainly getting my stand to hold it while I work on it and rereading some instructions and going over where I am and where I am going. Ill post some pics and details later.
Thanks
 
Scott

James
does HobbyZone offer the option to purchase the building plans for some of these items

Creating the simulated rabbet/Cutting the Bearding line
 
The instructions advise, and the kit requires you to create a simulated rabbet  by removing material from the bottom edge of the false keel and the bearding area.   You are required to reduce the material from 3/32nds to 1/32nd on the bottom edge right down the middle of the part.  I decided it would help if I could see where I was going with that.  Luckily I have a sharp pencil and that the benches and locker material in the kit is cut from 1/32nd sheet material.
 
Get a sharp pencil.  I read years ago, either by Harold Hahn or Charles Davis, that it was amazing that people did not appreciate the usefulness of a really sharp pencil, nor did people generally know how to really sharpen one.  In ship modeling and drafting, ONE MILLIMETER IS A VAST DISTANCE.  A very sharp pencil allows you to draw lines with superior accuracy.  I have used a Mechanical Pentel 0.5 pencil for what now seems my entire life.  I have had this pencil since college and it stays in my tool box.  To get a sharp point on this pencil I simply hold it at an angle to the fine sandpaper on the inside surface (the adhesive edge of the paper wraps around the edge) of my sanding block and sand it down to a very sharp point.
 
Take the 1/32nd sheet that the locker and benches are made and on a flat surface press that sheet firmly against the bottom edge of the false keel and draw a line on the edge of the false keel all the way around.  You will have to reposition the sheet a few times, especially at the bow. You will end up with a fine pencil line 1/32nd from one edge of the 3/32nds false keel.   TURN OVER the false keel and repeat.   The result will now be that you have two parallel lines drawn down the center of the false keel and their inside edges will 1/32nd a part. 
 
Now you have a guide to work with and you will work the part to close to the inside edge of the drawn line.   See the photo's below.
 




 
 
 
 
 
 

Chuck and Paul
 
CHALLENGE ACCEPTED
 
 

Continuing on the wales, working my way up, dry fitting the gun port frames, tedious but worth it in the end!! The part that is taking the longest is making sure my port frames sit flush with the thicker planks (#34).
 

I am using the mill to drill the holes for the masts,  I am striving to get no tilt side to side and 10 degrees rake.  The second hole I drilled first with a smaller pilot drill and this worked better.


I turned a couple of small brass pulleys for the Davits on the lathe.


I need to install the rudder and then varnish the entire hull.  Then I will move on to the deck furniture.  I'll probably make the mounting pillars and mount the ship to a temporary stand to make it easier to work on.  
 
Below is my current reading list.  I am on a War of 1812 kick.
 

Well all here is another post, first off thanks to all the folks following my build more so thanks to everyone who has given me hints and suggestions they are very welcomed and appreciated. As I tell my son when you are reading pay attention to what you are reading, I need to take my own advice, I missed the part in Chucks instructions that stated to get the keel reduced before getting the hull shaped with the temples so I am kind of backwards right now, at least I caught it before I went to far.
 
I have enclosed a pic of where I am, I tried very hard to do it the way Chuck suggested with the red and blue lines but I had a lot of problems finding center, so I used a trick I saw on another post and used the 1/8th x 1/8th strip of wood as a reference and pinned it to the keel. (red circle 1) if you will notice on that same spot I think my keel is not exactly flat the strip of wood seems to be slanted also I noticed that it seem that in different spots there was more to shave off of one side in comparison to the other.
 
Also reference point #2 you will see where I came up with my centerline, I basically did some measuring down the stern post and came up with a center. I tried to use the drawn plans but can see to figure out if I was getting the right spot on the plans
 
reference mark #3 shows the curve at the top of the stern post, I assume this will be squared off when I trim down to the 1/8th size.
 
please take a look at the picture and let me know if I am on the right track.
 
 
David/Hopeful
 
thank you very much for the information about measuring and getting everything square (so to speak) unfortunately my dilemma is (and maybe I am overthinking) I don’t understand how to get these measurements since the entire body of the boat is not set to spec yet. If I measure from bow to midship, the bulwarks are not at the required with so wouldn’t that throw off the numbers, same with measuring port to starboard with the bulwarks.
 

As stated earlier thanks everyone for the help, I am truely enjoying this build
 

Well I have gotten the midship templet all done and it feels great I am now working on number six templet but I am having some issues. I notice there is a little hump by the top rail so I am working to get that then trying to get the whole templet set in.
I have put in about 5 hours total on the project, not sure if thats a lot of time or normal lol but this is where I stand any little hints are greatly appreciated.
 

hi MIke
glad to see someone else new like me and you are from Louisiana woo hoo
as you will see in my build log I am not very far into the build, my biggest issue todate was the keel but Im working through it and getting good progress, as mentioned here each little succes is a great feeling I will be posting more pics by the weeks end if you come across something you found that worked for you please let me know.

ok here we go, I did some work on my build this weekend I fared the midship templete (you were right Trip just getting that part to fit was a great feeling) I did run into some issues, I think its because im not understanding somethin. I am still haveing issues with the keel. I put the false keel on the hull pins and seemed like everything looked good, but you cant fare the hull with the false keel on. when I finished the midship templet and it was correct where it showed the centerling would be is not close to where I marked. Not sure if im doing something wrong. the pics below show the templet number 5 after it has been fared also for those who are new like me the number two templete didnt fit at all so I will have to sand the keel some more for it to fit.
also how do you insert pics with comments above the pic?

I followed Chucks instructions and used the kits instructions in combination. It makes it much easier the way Chuck explains by trimming an 1/8" off the stern post. For new guys understand there is still a good bit of sanding to get the templets to meet

well the hull is fared finaly so now im moving onto the false keel
as you will see i used the template gauge to make sure i had the right angle for the curve. the template and the hull match up pretty good but i figured this way was more accurate.
the only issue is when i soaked the wood and then put it in the pins to mold it instead of a nice curve i got two bends in the wood.
so i guess ill try Chucks method next any other suggestions?

Hey everyone, well Im back at it after a long long pause. I worked a little last night on the boat, mainly getting my stand to hold it while I work on it and rereading some instructions and going over where I am and where I am going. Ill post some pics and details later.
Thanks
 
Scott

Gulf, after writing this post, I am adding this little blurb. I am sorry before you read this that it is so long and kind of off topic (it is all about CA vs wood glue and when it is appropriate to use each). I don't mean to high jack your build log or anything but I though it was relevant info and it is a response to Mike's post above.
 
So, I think the answer to that is that it depends. Items that aren't under a lot of stress should have no problem. This false keel piece should have no problem considering it is glued to the hull, possibly pained over (depending on how far down the hull you paint), and then copper plated over. This thing should stay secure indefinitely, I would think.
 
Other things, like if you plank the hull of the ship or if the method Gulf used to bend a piece of wood to the shape of the false keel piece, where you are bending wood and the wood wants to unbend, I would use wood glue because that will be a very strong joint and the joint will be under pressure until the wood finally gives up (I'm only guessing that the wood will, over time, take the shape you bent it to, but that may take years, I'm not sure).
 
On this build, the only parts I would be concerned about using CA on would be the cleats, on which, the running rigging will be tied. Those cleats will be subject to the tension in the lines which may be significant in this scale. I think Chuck's solution to this makes it so CA should be fine, however. He instructs you to cut off the little prong thing from the bottom of the cleat base, drill a small hole (I think I used a #76 or #78 drill hit here), glue a small piece of wire in the hole so that a short post (slightly shorter than the bulwark stanchions are thick) protrudes. Then, to secure the cleats to the bulwark stanchions or the base of the masts, just drill a hole into them deep enough to take the entire post on the base of the cleat and use CA to secure it in place. I am pretty confident that CA should be sufficient over time when you follow Chuck's method.
 
I know this was a long post but I hope it helps. Keep in mind that I have not been modelling for years and don't know difinitively whether or not what I said in this post is absolutely true, but these are my thoughts on the subject and when I think about it, these points seem reasonable and likely in my mind. Take my advice with a grain of salt or correct me if you know better than me, as I said, these are just my thoughts on the subject.

Thank you sir that is what I was asking 

Chuck so on this board you will cut the plank strips from where I circled and put number 1?

Ive lucked out my father in Law has a lot of mixed prime wood above his garage that I can get from him. One of my sons parents had some red cedar trees knocked down and they let me go cut it and get it and I had it milled. My cost about 150 and ended up with 85 planks of beautiful cedar. We have a lot of tree cutting companies here in Louisiana some times Ill go to them before they cut the wood for fire wood and by a piece of a big branch or trunk. Typically Im looking for pecan or oak.

Chuck
I know what you mean. I do other wood working and the wood I used has gone up so much I cant afford it even now in 2022, and here in Southern US every time we have a hurricane it shoots up even more

Birchwood Casey Brass Black and a compass circle cutter. Lynn, use the MSW search engine to find discussions on brass blackening, there are several. 
 

 

 
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Compass-Circle-Circular-Cutting/dp/B08FRRV2ZT/ref=asc_df_B08FRRV2ZT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475864778819&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9216951676649442914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017387&hvtargid=pla-1125028214835&psc=1

Lynn, also. a Forstner bit is a much better drill than the normal metal drills. There's much less tear out with a Forstner but they are more expensive. You should be able to buy one the size of your mast diameter or if you can afford it spring for a set and be done with it. 
 
 Any time one of us has suggested a tool to help you along, you've been Jonny on the spot to buy it. That's why I disagree with your statement "I consider myself a casual modeler". The casual modeler would use an inadequate tool to try and get the job done. You're far more than a casual builder. If you were casual about this hobby I wouldn't be following you in your journey. 

Lynn, the launch way looks great, the Phantom looks right at home. 
 
 I didn't get interested in ship modeling till much later in life. What drew my interest when working for a salmon cannery my second season up north was my future/current wife. She was there working in the mess hall (her second season), when we met. She had originally gone up to check out her Alaskan Native heritage, I'd originally gone north to escape a bad marriage. Her mother was full blood Aleut born in the village (Egegik) where the cannery was located. Her mother left the village when she was about 15 to go to school in Anchorage. She stayed in Anchorage after her schooling was finished and eventually met my wife's father who was stationed there in the Navy. They moved to Michigan where my wife was born. It was a cannery romance that has stuck for 42 years. 
 
 

Don't we all, LOL!