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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. Mirabell61
    B.E. these pumps look great, I like them very much... Nils
  2. Mirabell61
    Hi Jon Hi John I thank you both for your kind comments. I`m at the time of installing some details, before I start making the six sails. Finaly I`ve found a way to decline the lettering for the tail name and home port. For the companion ways I decided to show one (open hatches) and the other one (closed hatches). The two gaff spars and their rigging will be next in the pipe. The anchor attachment is also done as well as the two main sheets with tripple sheet blocks, so all is coming on quite well.... There was the question in the beginning, why the odd scale 1:51, but now the model turns out 740 mm length over all, which turns out to 37000 mm for the actual ship, who`s rating is 37 meters and therefore the scale is now corrected to 1:50 Nils I onls put one admirals typ anchor with rigging at the stb side. A smaller one (emergency) will be placed at the inboard front bulwark later on the forward placed companion way with closed hatches and doors. The formast boomtackle differs to the mainmast boom tackle, probably to hook it out more easily when opperating the boats aft companionway and skylight. I chose an 8-window typ in order to allow more light down into the ship there is a slight problem with the forward sail sheet when the boats are in place on deck. I trust this must have been the same situation as with the actual boat. The boat tackles rest (hooked in) at the davits when not in use tail lettering and attached tail light the upper rudder shaft will be shortend later on
  3. Mirabell61
    Update fitted the skylight, the mainsail sheet and the two uncompleted companionway hatches.... I`m trying to get the aft name sign and the port name reduced to the right size. The windows / excel tool allows to get the display in a rounded, bent shape, but only in a too large size. This is to compensate the tapered aft-section. I intend to print them on transparent self-adhesive foil and cut out the text for bringing it on to the hull surface. It looks like my printer has no built in decline function Nils
  4. Mirabell61
    thank you Igor, your fleet of mini scale- and bottle ships is amazing and very nice to see. At least you should not have problems with the places for display. When I was young I also built a few bottle ships for the family members as a christmas present as I had limited financial playground at that time.... Nils
  5. Mirabell61
    Thank you John, yes those are working bottlescrews (M1,4 ) Nils
  6. Mirabell61
    Update Standing rigging and shroud wires now done with tin galvanized flexible steel wire (19 x 0,1mm thick ) Nils
  7. Mirabell61
    Thank you John, I`m trying to plan in all the leftover blocks of my former models, so it may turn out a mix of block colors (dark and pearwood ones). Nils
  8. Mirabell61
    Update bot masts ready for the standing rigging..... Nils
  9. Mirabell61
    Update Am starting with the masting and the rigging. The tackles for the boats was the first to start up with Nils
  10. Mirabell61
    Yes Eberhard, I bought those beech strips some time ago already for one of my other models. Now they come handy and find their destination. Are they only available in Germany, I trust they certainly will be of international use for modelers. Nils
  11. Mirabell61
    Update today I`m doing the bulwarks handrail from bendable beech stripe 1,5 x 3,5 mm flat. The aft rounding is done with a bending gig in order to bend the strip over the flat side and a pot of boiling water..... Nils the front and mid sections are easy because of the slight bend only.... this gig keeps the strip down flat during bending the curve... for the aft rounding here the strip is inserted into the gig for smooth bending the strip was put into hot water for a few minutes out comes a smooth rounding over the flat side of the strip. I`m very pleased with the result fixing the rounding rail to the aft bulwark. It will be shafted to the mid section bulwarks
  12. Mirabell61
    Update fitted a set of overworked oarlocks (thinner wire), also boat cradles, bell, and the first coat of white paint above the waterline. The bulwarks (in boat swing out area) are cut back a bit just like the real vessel. The upper handrails are still missing as well as the deck`s super structure like companionways, hatches, skylights, etc Nils the upper hull has a white-silk finish
  13. Mirabell61
    Update the boats are now complete, allthough the oarlocks and a sample oar look a bit oversized Nils
  14. Mirabell61
    Update Making the oarlocks and painting the boats Nils the painting requores some touch-up
  15. Mirabell61
    Right Eberhard, the reason is that I just did`nt want to make the lever beam my self. The one I`m using ist normaly forseen for a double bilge pump and also the largest I could find. So the crew members would have to arrange with the given circumstances like always in life... Nils
  16. Mirabell61
    Update making the tubes for the anchor chain, chemical blackening of the brass anchor chain, casting the boat halves, two halves of the boat checking out the fit, and ready for glueing together, the cockpit - cover still needs to be cut out Nils the chain is transported over the appr. shaped chainwheel port for the chain this is the cast box for the silicone mold this is the removeable heart for the boats inner shaping. The little distance chucks are only preliminary attached in order to determine the boats wallthickness here everthing is ready for casting the two-component raisin into the waxed parts this is the very first cast boathalf the fake frame-ends (at inner bulwarks) are included within the casting dryfit of two boathalves
  17. Mirabell61
    Update making the box containment for the silicone mold and casting the mold from semi soft silicone rubber Nils the box must be large enough to allow buffer rubber material all around. I used car polish wax for covering the box inside and for the submerging section of the model fot better removal I used up the leftover 2 component silicone I still had from making my boats for Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse. It was just enough silicone for this application ( to the last drop ! ) taking the halfmodel from the mold, all looks well so far
  18. Mirabell61
    Many thanks Eberhard, now its understood. Shall overwork the sternpost on the castings Nils
  19. Mirabell61
    Eberhard, please would you please send me a handscetch on my message box here, it would be understood better what you mean. I intended to make a symetrical end, cast the parts, and then do the fine tuning individualy afterwards... (Rabbets, cutaways, etc) The raisin is easy to trim Nils
  20. Mirabell61
    Update making the boats..... I could`nt find suitable double-ender boats in the web, so I decided to make them myself. It would be a 130 mm long double-ended and clinkered little model itself. I used ply and easy to shape Balsa wood. This will be the model for taking the silicone form from in which I intend to raisen-cast two symetrical halves and glue these together afterwards. The clinker is simulated with double laying strips of self adhesive aluminium tape Nils rough shaping the boats hull half after final shaping and sanding over fitting the rail ( from brass profile) clinkering Thats the look... the boats will turn out 130 mm long in scale 1:50
  21. Mirabell61
    Many thanks John... Nils
  22. Mirabell61
    Update Mounting the pinrails that also take up the sleeves for the davits. Mounting the side vertical bumper-ails for raising / lowering the boats Mouting a short bumpkin through the upper bowpost at the bulwarks and making the bow sprit that will be fixed a bit offset to the bumpkin. Trying out if I can possibly make the two boats. The boats are symetric front and aft, so I would only need to make one halfmodel to take a silicone matrix from that. If it works out I can cast the raisin halves to make two boats from Making a gig to taper the bow sprit as well as the top spars later on. The total model length ( bow sprit to aft end of mainsail beam) will be 750 mm Nils tapering tapering simultaniously requires two machines in operatio tapered bow sprit preparing for making the (only 1 half) for the boats
  23. Mirabell61
    Piotrek, congratulations, you can be very proud of this outstanding model Nils
  24. Mirabell61
    Eberhard, right I would have preferred M4 in the beginning, but the keel was so narrow, so it would have turned out too thick, also considering both sides planking and sheathing Now I have appr. 5,6 mm thickness at the keel, in scale that would be 286 mm on actual vessel keel, which looks quite realistic to me as there is no center-board to be integrated Nils
  25. Mirabell61
    Eberhard, thanks for your words the reason for using the press-in nuts here is merely for the long thread section, whereby the regular M3 nut only has two or three windings in interlock with the spindle. I experienced it once that on the spindle the interlock area was damaged because the force was only unsufficiantly only on two or three windings and they gave way.... Nils

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