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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. Mirabell61
    Thank you John, I`m evaluating the boats deck and how it can be mounted with all those side supports to be fitted in .... Nils
  2. Mirabell61
    Wonderful work Marsalv, it is a pleasure to watch your work Nils
  3. Mirabell61
    very nice painting Valeriy, it looks great BTW. those are the colors of the Laeisz flying P-liners Nils
  4. Mirabell61
    thank you Rick, Nils
  5. Mirabell61
    Hi Hermann, I found 8 line fairleads, like the silver one shown in the last pics. They are brass pessed and nickel plated. So I merely had to determin the length and cut off the surplus materil. Painting in hull color. The two aft brass roller fairleads were more tricky due to the small dimensions, but it worked out OK. They are full workable and can handle a at maximum) a 2mm polyester mooring rope. They were mounted in square cut outs in the bulwark Nils made from 8 mm brass squaretube, each with 4 rollers working on soldered in 0,8mm axiles in two separated layers behind each other
  6. Mirabell61
    Hi John, I think its always a task to find a solution in model ship building, that makes out the "spice" of this hobby. You will find a good solution that gives you satisfaction on restoration of this beautiful model. The long poop-deck is also shown on the "Padua" fourmaster, flying P-liner, (now still sailing as Krusenshtern, Russian cadett training ship ) Nils
  7. Mirabell61
    thanks John, I hope I`ll get the other one done as well as the prototyp, hopefully it will not take so long .... Nils
  8. Mirabell61
    Update made the six line-fairleads and the shutter flaps of the freeing ports. Quater- both sides aft there will be a crossed-rolls fairllead, I`m working on the prototyp out of 8mm square brass tube and fitted with 4 crossed rolls. This little bugger has taken me a few hours to make and to put together (soldering in the rolls axises) the freeing port shutter flaps and the line-fairleads. The pressed brass nickel plated fairleads are shortened so that they come flush at the inner side of bulwarks the workable rolls are from small brass tube, the axis are from 0,8mm brass wire I refrained from cutting break through openings into the bulwark (for stability reason ) the hinged shutters Nils
  9. Mirabell61
    thanks Vezett, Keith, Jack and John, You all are right, I was expecting comments on that, but the answer is simple: I only had one white capital letter "F" so that went to the wallbox at the rear bulkhead, I still had enough small white letters to spell "fire" on the other boxes. Also the would not have been enough space on the boxes to spell the appropriate German word. In german maritme fitting out the engl. language is international and quite common anyhow. I am OK with that. Nils
  10. Mirabell61
    Eberhard, I found some 1:160 "shapeways" figurines, they are more expensive than Preiser though ... perhaps some surgery necessary Hope the link works https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/figurines?q=&sort=popularity&facet[pdcId][]=141&facet[pdcId][]=342&facet[price][min]=1&facet[price][max]=2500&facet[price][from]=1&facet[price][to]=2500 Nils
  11. Mirabell61
    good job on the figures Eberhard, I suppose that you did`nt find suitable ones in Scale "N" 1:160 Nils
  12. Mirabell61
    Thanks John, so far so good, now comes the fitting out part and the boatsdeck. The lighttower mast is basicly done already but not painted yet. The soldering of the fragile frontmast in brass will probably be the most difficult thing on this ship, as well as the two ships work / lifeboats. I think I`ll make the boats with silicone mold and raisin cast ( I did`nt see these for purchase anywhwere) One problem I have, is that all has to be addopted from pics and the web, because I did not buy the buildplan in the beginning, and the plan with side view and frameplan out of Helmut Thomas`s publication is missing all the details, also in bird`s view, on the boats deck, and of course the dimensions in order to scale them down to 1:87 Nils
  13. Mirabell61
    Update all portholes with glassings, all doors with doorknobs and wall boxes for rolled up fire hoses are mounted to the deck housing Nils
  14. Mirabell61
    many thanks Michel and Rick, Nils
  15. Mirabell61
    Update made the removeable deck-house together with hand rails and lightshafts with seatight hinged covers. After primering painting the deckhouse portholes were inserted. Also the aft bulkhead was fitted out with two doors and portholes therein .... Slowly its getting shape Nils the making of the deckhouse the handrails are from brass wire. There are 5 screws that position and hold down the deckhouse to the deck Dechhouse with portholes there are 10 lightshafts around the deckhouse, The doors will be next
  16. Mirabell61
    Hi Keith, right keith, I have a whole bunch of the clamps in that size and they look weard, I have built many ships with them already .... The portholes will be of pushed-in rounded face brass tube-rivets. The size and "glassing" will be a number smaller that the other side hull ones Nils
  17. Mirabell61
    thank you very much Rick and Michel, Nils
  18. Mirabell61
    thanks Michel, I`ve started with the long deck house today with 16 positions for portholes on each side Nils
  19. Mirabell61
    Hello Ralf, welcome to MSW and I wish you a pleassant stay with our comunity Greetings from Glinde (Schleswig-Holstein) Nils
  20. Mirabell61
    beautiful jobstart on the planking Keith, I like thr lines of your yacht nicely done Nils
  21. Mirabell61
    Thats a beautiful model John, I wish you all the patience and success to get her "afloat" again Nils
  22. Mirabell61
    Update made the updated forecastle bulkhead and support for the front mast, also the seawater tight access doors. The mushroom-anchor chain end will be connected to the ringspring buffer element on deck Nils
  23. Mirabell61
    Thank you Veszett. I`m doing a prototype flap for the freeing ports (outside bulwarks), each with 2 hinges in brass soldering. I think I`need 5 or 6 of them on each side Nils
  24. Mirabell61
    Hi John, To get the sitting right first time .... I put a horizontal tape line at the footline of the lettering, (for all letters), started sticking on from there, one by one, and then carefully rolling the the letter upwards, light alignmet corrigations still possible till the rub rail. Pressing into the corners of the rub rail with a piece of wooden plank, and then rolling on the upper part of the letter. It works quite well after a little practice. Nils
  25. Mirabell61
    great work Siggi, I see that your chissel cutting tool has the exact contour of the spindles, smart and time saving idea ! Nils

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