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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. good job on the figures Eberhard, I suppose that you did`nt find suitable ones in Scale "N" 1:160 Nils
  2. Thanks John, so far so good, now comes the fitting out part and the boatsdeck. The lighttower mast is basicly done already but not painted yet. The soldering of the fragile frontmast in brass will probably be the most difficult thing on this ship, as well as the two ships work / lifeboats. I think I`ll make the boats with silicone mold and raisin cast ( I did`nt see these for purchase anywhwere) One problem I have, is that all has to be addopted from pics and the web, because I did not buy the buildplan in the beginning, and the plan with side view and frameplan out of Helmut Thomas`s publication is missing all the details, also in bird`s view, on the boats deck, and of course the dimensions in order to scale them down to 1:87 Nils
  3. Update all portholes with glassings, all doors with doorknobs and wall boxes for rolled up fire hoses are mounted to the deck housing Nils
  4. Update made the removeable deck-house together with hand rails and lightshafts with seatight hinged covers. After primering painting the deckhouse portholes were inserted. Also the aft bulkhead was fitted out with two doors and portholes therein .... Slowly its getting shape Nils the making of the deckhouse the handrails are from brass wire. There are 5 screws that position and hold down the deckhouse to the deck Dechhouse with portholes there are 10 lightshafts around the deckhouse, The doors will be next
  5. Hi Keith, right keith, I have a whole bunch of the clamps in that size and they look weard, I have built many ships with them already .... The portholes will be of pushed-in rounded face brass tube-rivets. The size and "glassing" will be a number smaller that the other side hull ones Nils
  6. thanks Michel, I`ve started with the long deck house today with 16 positions for portholes on each side Nils
  7. Hello Ralf, welcome to MSW and I wish you a pleassant stay with our comunity Greetings from Glinde (Schleswig-Holstein) Nils
  8. beautiful jobstart on the planking Keith, I like thr lines of your yacht nicely done Nils
  9. Thats a beautiful model John, I wish you all the patience and success to get her "afloat" again Nils
  10. Update made the updated forecastle bulkhead and support for the front mast, also the seawater tight access doors. The mushroom-anchor chain end will be connected to the ringspring buffer element on deck Nils
  11. Thank you Veszett. I`m doing a prototype flap for the freeing ports (outside bulwarks), each with 2 hinges in brass soldering. I think I`need 5 or 6 of them on each side Nils
  12. Hi John, To get the sitting right first time .... I put a horizontal tape line at the footline of the lettering, (for all letters), started sticking on from there, one by one, and then carefully rolling the the letter upwards, light alignmet corrigations still possible till the rub rail. Pressing into the corners of the rub rail with a piece of wooden plank, and then rolling on the upper part of the letter. It works quite well after a little practice. Nils
  13. great work Siggi, I see that your chissel cutting tool has the exact contour of the spindles, smart and time saving idea ! Nils
  14. Hi Gary, and thanks for your words, Yes , it was tricky with the rub rail underneath, I thought self adhesive stickers or cut out decals would be OK, but all wrong, finaly I made the letters from white painted and self adhesive thin aluminium foil, and that sticks to the hull contours like hell. I made the lettering a bit larger than the plan shows, (like the ship has in reality ), in fact its nearly from the top bulwark grab rail down to 10 mm over the waterline (on the model) Nils
  15. Thank you very much Roel and Ken, I`m pleased that you like lightship in progress Nils
  16. Update Yesterday I finaly got the lettering done and positioned as intended. This morning I placed all the portholes (painted in hull color, and now all is prepared fore doing the porthole-glassing. The upper row of the forecastle is glassed already. I use 3mm OD silicone transparent cord for the glassing, glue the bits in with CA and cut off from outside square to the porthole face Nils the lettering at the stern (aft) is made from 5mm high white adhesive stickers
  17. Many thanks to Keith, John, Phil, and B.E. for all your nice comments .... Keith, I did not find any other lettering related eg. on riveted surface and with rail underneath. I trust the methode now found will do it John, I`m glad that I did all the trials on a dummy background first Phil, thanks your encouraging comment B.E. I just love the challenge to find a way of realizing an idea. Once it works it goes to the "box" of approven experience Nils
  18. Phil, thank you very much for your suggestion, your kind input is very much appreciated. I indeed am having problems with the lettering, and I do`n want to spoil the model. My great hope was that the decal application would do it. I tried this a few times and it always ended in a mess, because the cut out and wet decal letters are far too fragile to shift them in place without breaking. This brought quite some frustration and gave me some headaches thinking what to do, and tying out alternative ways. I needed some time for further motivation. Finaly I found a methode that worked (at least on a dummy arrangement ) : I printed the letters on normal paper and cut them out with a little oversize. Then I sprayed some adhesive promoter on a bit of very thin and self adhesive strip of silver aluminiun foil. After that the silver foil side was painted in color of the letters (white). The oversize cutout printed letters were glued to the rear side of the foil`s silicon paper protection side. Then the aluminium foil with glued together with the printed paper cutout templates these "laminated letters" were cut out as precise as I could. Finaly the thin aluminiun letters (now white color) were removed from silcon paper and then carefully brought into position. Due to the good adhesive gluefilm of the aluminium foil rearside, the underground contures ( rivets and rail ) could be easily pressed down with an rubber erasor. The foil did not partiialy "lift off" in the problem zones, and the rivets can be recognized I hope this was understandable and enclose two pics...... Nils these paper prints were only needed for size and contours of the letters here samples for letters "E" and "B" were placed were peranently to the dummy arrangement
  19. Congrats B.E. both models are masterly built, and eyecandy museum quality to look at Nils
  20. congrats to your beautiful chebec model Daniel, Nils
  21. Hi John, yes its causing me headaches, and I`ll ty to avoid a mess up on the hull, because I never did own-made decals before. Because I ca`nt print white on transparent decal paper, I`m using white decal ground and have to sharp cut out every letter as good as I can and then start the waterslide transfer letter per letter. I`ll do a trial decal attachment to a dummy arrangement first, when I have the ordered softener in hands Nils
  22. Hi B.E., ca`nt wait to see your case, I also prefer glass, the acylic is a magnet for dust from the outside. You`re right with the handycap for the glass weight, I use 4mm thick panes, they fit nicely into the wooden case- frames with 4mm slots Nils
  23. Thank you very much Mike, I`m just trying to get the portholes ( 6mm OD )in line with the lettering, and must arrange them so that I drill the borings clear of the frames. Also the outside diam. of the portholes must be centered in the letter-spaces without damaging them too much. Made a small dummy for the check. The white decal letters must be brought in very precice positions to the hull. Hope it works Nils 20 mm high lettering. The brass portholes will be prior painted in red hull-color, glassed an then pushed into the 4 mm holes
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