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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. beautiful model Nick, those details look great, also the brass props Nils
  2. Update testing the function of the gravity davits with lowered boat on port side Nils the names are with white photo-paper, colored orange background and white letters (cut out and glued on) a working delegation is preparing to set over....
  3. Update Finished the boats, except for the names and the homeport, also the hooh-blocks, the davit arms with line leading points, the soldered brass racks for the gravity system, and the motorized reels for the lines, the reel axis still to be shortend Nils equipment for hoisting and lowering the Elbe 1 boats
  4. Congrats Roel, super work at that small scale, and the sea looks great as well Nils
  5. Thank you Gary, yes, I`m very pleased how the rope came out. I`ll paint it in rope color after the hulls are painted Nils
  6. Update The boat`s hulls are so far complete, rudder, tiller, prop, and seating area, and hook-eyes built in, now ready for painting. I built total 3 boats, so one in raw condition will be kept for spare. Nils the inside is ocre yellow with brown seatings this is the hook system of the gravity davits
  7. Thanks, how do you balance out at periscope depth, is there an automatic depth control, or is it to nerviously keep the eye to the periscope wave and two fingers at the hight rudder stick ? Nils
  8. FreekS Very interesting technical design and work, well done ! Just a question : Is it realy possible to RC-control a submerged sub, once its submerged you ca`nt see it any more ? Nils
  9. Hi Keith, I`m using a polyurethan resin from "Trollfactory" webshop. its TFC PU Resin together with TFC PU Caltalyst, each in a 250 Gr. bottle (together for 19,80 EUR) If mixed together weight wise 1:1 you have about 15 minutes time untill curing starts. Nils
  10. Update because I had problems with getting the mixture for the 2 components (both exactly the same weight neccessary ) I invested into a small digital weight scale. After using that, it works well and results are repeatable. I am holding now 6 halves, glued two together and cut out the cockpit areas. I should have done that long ago already. Nils the new weight scale stb. half model with inside contours outside view halves glued tother and cockpit areas cut out
  11. Thank you Valeriy, glassing with face-polished plexiglass cylinders, very smart ! Nils
  12. Valeriy, those skylights are wonderful. How and with what methode did jou do the glassing ( looks great ) ! Nils
  13. Thank you Veszett, sure, I`ll keep it, for the sake of taking molds for spare boats if needed Nils
  14. Thank you very much Rick, Update for the stb. side mold I built a better boxing (Balsa) for that half mold. I knew I had a mini platine with very small etch parts which also comprised 5 wee prop 3-blade etchings of only 5mm diam. Finaly, luckily I found it. because these mini etched props were taken from the market for reasons I do`nt know. the wooden plag could easily be removed from the mold thanks to the use of seperating wax -spray applied to the wooden model before. After removal the wooden plug was bearing no silicone residue. The blades were bent into shape. and the rudder blade was soldered to its shaft. To see what it looks like, all was mounted to the wooden model, as a sample, the heel was cut and drilled fom a small part of brass bar. I find it does`nt look bad, and even the rope contoures come out well. The polyurethan resin with appropriate hardener is ordered, and I`m eager to see the come-out , in some coming days after the wooden inside contours-plug is finished. Nils making the stb. side mold in an improved Balsa- boxing prop and rudder mounted the prop etching is only 5mm diameter and soldered to its 0,8mm shaft
  15. thank you very much Keith and John, Keith. I made a template of the deck only, the other dimensions are taken from free hand. The silicone mold for the port side turned out quite well. I`ll be going for the stb. side now. There is one little objection near to the bilge keel, where an air bubble got trapped, but that can be easily removed from the later resin casting John, I practiced the rope-line fender on my 5 Elbe Pilot schooner`s boats and it worked very well. All details of the rope were cleanly with the cast resin afterwards. My main concern was that the silicone`s lifetime may have also possibly have expired, because I had bought this longer ago together with the (now unusable) resin and hardener. Nils rope contours are clearly visable in the mold
  16. Update I started with the wooden model yesterday out of a light carvable wood, to take the silicone-mold from. The boats are after the pic of the make actual Fassmer lifeboats. In fact they are little launches with built in Motor. I put a fender line all around. there will be two cockpits later on cut out of the cast resin outformings. I stll have some silicone with catalyst left over from recent models, for the port- and stb. half-molds, hoping it would still work, but the resin and its hardener have unfortunately expired lifetime, so I need some new.... Also the wooden plug for the hull inside contoures must still be made. Prop and rudder / rudder-heel will be mounted to the resin models later on. Nils drawing of the actual Elbe 1 boats the wooden lug ontop is for holding in the vice during shaping in scle 1:87 the boats will be appr. 84 mm long bilge keels fitted fender-line all around
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