Mirabell61

Hi, Mark,
many thanks for an assessment! This exposition was presented in the class C-3D (according to NAVIGA classification) in the open championship of Ukraine on bench models in a class C (on April 4-7, 2014, Kiev, Polytechnical Museum of technical university of Kiev). About 80 models participated in the championship, my exposition was awarded in a gold medal.

Continuation
 
Exposition of three models of a bronze 24-pound gun of Le Fleuron 1729, M 1:24 is ready.

Hi, Nils
 
Many thanks for an assessment! 
 
Best regards

Continuation
 
Gun carriages for models No. 1 and No. 2 covered with OSMO oil-wax.

Continuation
 
Gun carriages for models No. 1 and No. 2 assembled.

Sailing ship, threemast-barque Gorch Fock 2 in scale 1:95
 
Introduction to this build by Nils Langemann
 
When choosing my first tallship for modeling, the choise for either Gorch Fock 2 or for Pamir was not so easy, so finally I decided to build both, the Gorch Fock 2 to begin with, and the other to follow on in staggered time schedule.
The Gorch Fock 2 is the follower of the still existing german Gorch Fock 1 and bearing the original Name again (ex russian Tovarisch, now towed to the pier in Stralsund harbour, Baltic sea), which had several sisterships, one of them being the still serving USS Eagle of the US Coast Guard.
 
GF 2 was launched 1958 at Hamburg Blohm & Voss shipyard, build N° 804 and to be used as a cadet training ship for the German Navy, Bundesmarine. She since then, and after several updates in look and techniques does her duty bravely. She is well known on the seven seas and in many ports. She is also participating in many “Operation Sail” events and to be seen amoungst other tallships.
 
Compared with the ultimate version of today I preferred to model the 1960 ties version for its more interesting look, with the more nostalgic looking boats and the motorized commanders launch. The model should be carrying all 23 sails and be fully rigged, if I would manage to do so. The ships hull in actual and in model is representing more the look of a large yacht, because of the slim fine lines and the missing cargo holds.
The ultimate version differs in color, has a larger oval shaped funnel, more modern navigation equipment, a variable pitch propeller, larger portholes (safety reasons, allows a man passing through !!) and modern rescue- and lifesaving equipment. Also a side-thrust prop was fitted in the bow Sub waterline section, as well as many inside fitting out updates.
When looking out for a suitable plan to build the model from scratch, I found a lonesome set of frames in correct scale at an Ebay auction and decided to trim and update these for my project. I saved myself some plywood-cutting-out right at the beginning, that gained some time for doing other things. The other data and rating I found in some GF2 related books, and besides that at that time, I still had a wonderful rare scale 1:150 GF 2 Kit in Plastic by Revell, that had never been built nor started, but representing a very useful pattern for enlargement to scale 1:95 (rating wise)
I started gathering all information and pictures of details I could get, and started to lay the keel. It should take me appr. 1,5 years to finalize the model. Many experienced techniques could be addopted to the Pamir build whereby not so good results on GF2 modeling techniques could be avoided or improved.
 
Have fun in exploring this build log
 
Nils
 
 

unmistakeable, the white barque with the golden flying Albatros figurehead, which had to be replaced several times when going lost in rough trips
 
 

The since WW1 late german writer, Johann Wilhelm Kienau, pseudonyme "Gorch Fock" is the name giver to this vessel
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log Part 1
 
 

I tried to get a better print into this Formate, but not possible at this framerate
 

SSS stands for Segel-Schul-Schiff on the nameplate
 

the single Frames contours would not allow 2-dimentional deck curvature, so the Basic Support was done this way
 

the decks are from 1,5 mm aero-plywood and preplanked (3 x 1mm stripes) before mounting (structure done by charcoaling plank edges with a masons pencil, before gluing to the deckplates
 

stern fill blocks in multilayer ply, the deck Panels are checked for size with a Little surplus all around
 
 

deck curvatures clearly to be seen here
 

decks brought into shape with rough outer trimm
 

poop bulkhead and deckhousings started
 
 
 
 
Build log part 2 to follow....
 
 
Nils

Enough fun , back to the more mundane hull work. Starboard side almost done. Not completely pleased with the run of the planks but I'm unsure if I can improve this.
 

 

 

 
Up next, tree nailing I really like doing that
 
Remco

By the way, Chuck....OUR Confederacy just ran away with BEST IN SHOW at this year's North Carolina Maritime Society's annual Boat Builders Show. Held this past weekend in Beaufort, NC.

Thank you Nils. This is an interesting kit. I agree it's on the small side, but I don't know that this is really a bad thing. I'm actually tinkering with building something in a scale that's often referred to a sub-miniature 1:192. Small scales take less room and you can often get away with simplifications that you can't at larger scales. But, yes, paper details at 1/96 look pretty challenging.
 
It would be interesting to try out the larger 1/72-scale version of this ship. Same company, but it's only available in a boxed edition that's 3 times more money. Anyway, I wanted to try out this basic kit.
 
Yes, I've been wanting to build a cutter in wood at a larger scale. I have the Ancre book on the cutter Le Cerf too. Cutters are really nice looking ships and that's why I went with the Alert. And actually, this kit does have you plank the hull in clinker fashion. Interesting that wood kits don't do that.
 
 
By the way, I put in another order with Shipyard for the mast and yard accessory set and the sail kit. The order was sitting on hold for about 2 weeks and I was thinking that there was some kind of problem. I email Shipyard about it. I didn't get a response back, but a few days later I got an automated message that my order shipped, so I should have it in another 10 days or so.
 
Clare

Thanks Nils, I find your Pegasus build very inspiring, keep up the good work,

Well, I broke down and ordered this paper model kit from Shipyard last month. I've been helping Ages of Sail with various things for the past several months and ran across their stock of Shipyard paper model kits and was intrigued by them. I have a very vague memory of paper models as a kid. I think my older sister or an older person I knew must have had a paper model kit or something, because there seems to be something oddly familiar about them.
 
In any case, I ordered the kit from Poland, and it only took about 10 days to arrive. I immediately had to open it up to check it out.
 
HMS Alert is a 12-gun cutter and there's a great volume of the Anatomy of the Ship series on it.
 

 
The model itself is the smaller of the two versions made by Shipyard. The larger one is part of what they call their Laser Cardboard Kit series. That's simply their term for a complete boxed kit that includes laser cut frames, but also all the paints, dowels, paint brush, wood blocks and deadeyes, and turned brass cannons, etc. Some of the kits in the series are also available as part of their Paper Model kit series, but the Laser Cardboard Kit versions are often a larger scale.
 
My kit is just one of their standard Paper Model kits. It's 1:96-scale, whereas the Laser Cardboard Kit version is 1:72 scale, which would have been nice, but a lot more expensive both for the kit and for shipping. Mine cost me about $37 including shipping. You'll pay more for it from U.S. stores since distributors can't sell enough of them to get better pricing, but at least you don't have to convert currency or deal with overseas customer service. Not that any of this has been an issue with my first order.
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
My only experience with Shipyard kits was the HMB Endeavour kit, which is packaged like my Alert kit, but the Endeavour had no laser cut frames. So, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Alert had a full set of frames, all pre-cut. Of course, I had to try out the kit right away and next thing I knew, I had the hull framing done and I was off to add the hull sheets!
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
This is something of a side project for me, and I'll probably work on it the way I worked on the 18th Century English Longboat kit, which was just something I pull out when I need a break from wood ship modeling. So, I didn't plan on doing a build log on it. At least not for now. But, at the moment, I seem to need a lot of breaks, so I'd spend an hour on the Alert pretty regularly.
 
I've been experimenting with glues a little and settled on the contact cement I have for most of the work. It's Pliobond and the stuff reeks, but I've gotten used to it, and it seems to work very well.
 
I'm surprised at how well everything has gone together so far. Of course, I haven't dealt with any of the fine details. Not sure how I'm going to do with all those things. And, I'm a little cautious about rolling my own cannons. But, I'd like to keep from turning it into another wood ship model kit where I just use all the same fittings, buy after market cannons and all. So, we'll see. I'm also a little nervous about how well I can rig a paper model, since I can't use the same "touch" as with a wooden model where my rigging can be fairly tight.
 
So, far, I've managed not to accidentally crush parts, which are amazingly delicate until supporting pieces are glued in place.
 
If I get ambitious, I'll start an actual build log, but I've got enough build logs in progress to keep track of for now.
 
Just wanted to share about the new kit.
 
Clare
 
 
 
 
 

Antony and Dave – you are flattering me (it feels good, I admit). There is really no big story to tell; I’ve spent the last few weeks preparing parts and pieces (and sometimes throwing them away again). I spent many hours with the serving machine I’ve made earlier. Here an example: The sling for the stay sail, which will go around the mast after the stays and the hanger for the square yard, shown on the right. The stay sail halliard has already been bent on.
 

 
The next great challenge will be the fitting of all the parts in the crosstrees, where it is already crowded. This is mainly because I just “shrunk” the masts to fit Sherbourne’s small hull, when the shrouds and stays (which are not yet here) do not shrink to the same proportions…
 
 
 
My biggest mistake so far was that I glued on the cap before bending on the shrouds. That made the job unnecessarily challenging.But now that I’ve put together all the prepared lines, I see there is some progress.
 
 
 
Still missing are the main and preventer stays with their mice – another thing that lets me believe that Petersson’s model has a very much younger rigging added later: There the main stay is simply spliced together. 
Cheers,
Gregor

That’s how the deck is looking now.
 

 
Making a buoy was especially time and nerve consuming. Mine looks much battered, so I like to explain that this item is one of the original pieces of equipment of HMC Sherbourne I in 1763 and has seen 23 years of service, improbable as this may seem…
 

 
It was rather difficult to make pictures outside today, but I absolutely wanted to share my first look of a “complete” cutter – without the rigging lines, of course.
 

 
Many details need to be prepared before assembling. I think I will follow Kester’s log to do that.
 

 
One of the small details will be a proper fiddle block. This one was made from a 5mm and a 3mm single block glued together, not perfect. I wonder whether it would be better to simply lash two blocks together, an alternative proposed by Wolfram zu Mondfeld, but one that I can’t find on NMM’s models. 
 

 
The brown things taped to the mast are the mast rings, which I made from brass wire, soldered and filed into shape. As there will be no sails, they should at least lie properly, and I thought paper rings too light.
I have to admit I’m quite pleased with the model that is standing for the first time complete with it’s impressive spars. This will give me the necessary boost for all the other small things that are to be prepared before anything can be glued on definitively.
Cheers,
Gregor

Really glad I decided to get the prop cast in brass, what a difference it makes to the overall look

Just found this log and really enjoyed catching up with you.  Beautiful craftsmanship and thanks for sharing your innovative ideas. 

All the frames in for a dry fit before glueing.
 

 

 

 


 

Starting the fitting of the frames. Dryfitted all of these first before any glue was applied.
 

 

 



 

This log is making me look like I can build at speed. Normally I only get a couple of hours a week in the shed after the kids are in bed.
 
Slight gap. this is the one I remade.
 

 

 
Glueing the keel.
 

 

 
Slot cut with the corner of a razor blade. I saw this on someone elses build log and thought I should try it. 
 

 

Yeah, I have some the pictures I have taken but none the text. I know when I started the build I spent several hours going through all the past build logs and getting information.This was a great help. I figure others will do the same.
 
Frames cut out and seperated into each frame. I used two colors to tell the front and rear parts for each frame.
 

 
Sanding the outside radius. This sander I built with a motor from work that was going to be thrown away.
 

 
Sanding the inside radius. I have since upgraded the drill press so would be a lot easier no do now. The old one had a wobble in the chuck.
 

 

I am part way through the Cross Section build, and will put up all the pictures I had. The text will have to be reduced to a few notes. This is my first attempt at scratch building, and all the timber used is cut down from what I have in the shed. Mostly recycled native timber beams, or logs that have been drying for several years. I have been working on this now for about 18 months.
 
Sanded to thickness.
 

 
Home built thickness sander.
 

 
Ready to start cutting.
 

 

 
 

Still sorting out some of the photos. The build is still going slowly. Trying to find time to login and put them up, but here are some more:
 

 

 

 

 

32 Smokestacks.  The smokestacks provided with the kit are well made with no preparation necessary.  The crowns at the top of the main stacks fitted with little trouble.  The peaks of each crown are bent outwards for effect which requires some effort as you are having to bend a curved plate but the end result is ok.
 

 
Painting smokestacks in progress and trying some weathering effect but will have to try something else as not happy with it.

Books I am using are:-
 
 
Anatomy of HMS Victory= by John McKay.
Seaforth Historical Ships, HMS Victory= by Jonathan Eastland & Iain Ballantyne.
Owners workshop manual of HMS Victory=by Haynes(Royal Navy).
The Anatomy of Nelsons ships=by C Nepean Longridge.
Rigging period ships = by Lennarth Petersson.

Started by removing the single style steps.


Having studded the plans I found the lug support for the bower anchor was in the wrong place, so had to make another.


Using evergreen plastic for this item.


Cleared all detail:- three feathers(later for a crown), removed the Victory name plate from the rear

Will replace with the Dafi fret of this sign.


More soon Foxy

Hello all...
 
just a Little update and a few pics. The work on the Royal Caroline takes ist progress, nothing special to report. The build is satisfying and there is a lot of fun to watch the ship grow. The blue in the pictures looks a little bit too brillant - in reality it is not so much "blue".I have a lot of joy and I am always interested to hear your comments. I want to improve my modelling...
 
Best wishes to all
 
Cheerio - Max
 

 
 
 
 

Hello my friends
 
just a new update. The building of the Royal Caroline takes a lot of time... and the summer is around, so it last a Little to do the next step
 
But I can do some work like the inside planking and coloring. I use the Admirality Paint from Jotika. I think the red ochre fits the model quite good.
 
Next step will be sanding the hull and then start the second planking.
 
CU soon
 
Cheerio
 
Max