edmay

Beginning of the New Log

Hello Pat,
you are doing a very very good work, very clean.
usually I don't make any comment on the build logs, since I prefer to simply watch.
But since you, as I did in the past, are making a kit bashed Endeavour, I want to warn you about the boomkins problem.
Following the drawings of the book, I installed the boomkins, with related rigging.
Unfortunately, the rigging of the boomkin don't allows a "free" movement of the anchor.
The anchor is "trapped" between the boomkin rigging.
The final result is rather "false" if evaluated by an expert sailor.
I didn't find a good solution, since it was too late to make modifications on the boomkins, as you can see in the photos made during the model making.
Probably a different bending angle was needed or a different lenght of the boomkin.
 
So, since you are still in time, check the theoretical rigging position of the boomkins!
Beware of the boomkins! they are tricky!
 

hello Denis,got the flu,but will pull up the armchair,ready to learn more from you.Ed

I continued with the port propeller today but didn't quite finish it.  I managed fitting all the blades to the hub in relative good position as far as all being at the same distance to the hub and fitting inside the space behind the prop bearing housing.  
 
It was now time to cement the blades to the hub.  I used the slow cure two part epoxy cement giving me the time to position the blades equally spaced, and being at the same distance to the hub and all tracking the same.
 
For that I used a small steel machinist square and a piece of wood.  Hey, sorry but no fancy equipment here and one has to do what one has available that works   Of course now Jud expects me to balance them too!
 
I put a small piece of ⅛ tubing in a piece of wood so I can set the prop hub on it.  As the cement was curing I performed the final adjustments to the blades and went inside the house to have lunch.
 
After lunch I started cutting out the blades for the starboard prop and scribed the outlines on each peace of copper using the blades from the port prop as templet.  I used my tinsnips to cut the material away on the outside of the scribe lines and then sandwiched all them together and clamped them at the root end with a small pair of vicegrip pliers.   This way I could see the scribe marks and the contour of the blade ensuring that all will be the same.
The rest has to be done on an individual base.
 
It's putting the twist and camber in that's critical.   The first thing I do is bend the root into a slight curve as a start for the camber profile.  Then I work my way up bending the blade into a slight curve mimicking the camber profile.   I then put the blade into my bench vice at the root end end, between two pieces of plastic to not mar the blades, and with a pair of duckbill pliers I bend a twist into the blades.  Right now all this is just guesswork by eye.  The final shaping comes when I start fitting the blades into the hub.  
 
Now I file more of the profile into the blades on the convex side and after I have one blade pretty close to being to my satisfaction I use it as the standard, marked, and place the next blade in top to check the shape of that blade.  It may need more or less twist or more or less curve.  Adjustments are done with a piece of ¾ inch dowel and a small hammer and the duckbill pliers.
As y'all can imagine this takes a lot of time and it doesn't matter wether I have done one already that came out okay, this is a new model to shape.
When I'm happy with the twist and curve I use a few fine files to do the final shaping for the blade profile.  Polishing will come after the hub is painted and then we can cement the props to the shafts. 
 
Well, that's about how I did the port prop and expect the starboard one to work out okay as well, keep fingers crossed.
 
Okay, here are a few pics from today's efforts, hope you enjoy.
 

Here you see the propeller mounted to a small piece of ⅛ inch tubing in a block of wood.  I placed a small machinist square next to a blade and rotated the prop to see which blade needs to be adjusted.  I lucked out again and all were very close 
 

Here I used a small wood strip from the junk pile that was just the right thickness and tracked each blade for their correct tracking position.  I already determined that they were all shaped the same so checking in just one location for my purposes was sufficient.  Here too I lucked out
 

After the epoxy cement had cured enough I started to clean the blades and made a beginning of polishing the blades and painting the hub red.  After the paint had dried I had to put it on the boat - - - of course.   I am thrilled at how nice it looks, just like the real boat!  Final polishing will be done after the prop is balanced and then given a coat of lacquer to keep the copper bright.
 

This is a cloe-up, using flash.
 

Another close-up without flash.  It shows a little more detail.
 

Here is a shot looking alongside the hull aft, using flash.
 
Cheers,

The going is slow making the propeller blades.  I can't use a grinder because it clogs up and they get hot is a second holding with my fingers.  No, can't use clamps either, can't see the scribe marks and loose sight of the shape.  They are egg shaped and equal on each side of the centerline, the slightest deviation shows up like a sore thumb.  But that's okay, I have the time.  Nobody is standing behind me with a whip and I get paid by the hour 
 
Okay, I re-routed the dingy boom cables first thing this morning.  Thanks again Amateur Jan, good catch!! 
 
I managed 2 more blades for one of the propellers but they need more work.  I purposely made them larger then called for.  I'd rather file away metal then having to start over when they turn out too small.  You can take away but can't add on metal 
I also added ⅛ of an inch of wood to the hub to bring the blade field a little more aft.  That way I can have slightly longer blades and they won't interfere with the hull and outer dive plane supports.  Even so I had to grind away some material on the latter ones.
 
Hopefully I'll have one prop finished by the end of tomorrow.
 
Well, here are a few pics for yuns to view and don't be shy with your constructive criticism 
 

This is for Amateur Jan.  It shows the corrected rigging of the dingy boom.  Now, the load cable is still not running the same as on the drawing because I did not put a pulley below deck in the dingy compartment as it's supposed to be.  I had to run it through a hole in the deck on the starboard side of the aft con.  I could have put a 3 mm pulley down below but then I would have a problem demonstrating the works because the string would pull with a too large an angle.  Remember that this was also an afterthought.  If I had planned this from the get go I would have certainly done so.
 

This shows the four semi finished propeller blades loosely stuck in the hub. 
 

Here is another shot taken from the front and slightly above.  Here we can see just a hint of the profile.  The metal was not thick enough to machine the profile in the blades.  That would have been a devil of a task to do by hand.  For this model's purpose I think this should suffice.  
 

Here is another view but more from straight above.
 
Cheers,

Hey Remco,
 
Thanks for your kind words.  And of course also thanks for your help in obtaining the needed drawings!
Yes, they were tough times for us but I have many good memories from the times before WW II with my hero dad.
I hope that this log may add a little more knowledge of seemingly insignificant events in world history.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Piet, great to see you've started the log of you fathers O19. Your family has been part of a sad chapter of our history, I'm glad you are still her here to share it with us and that you're now able to make this special tribute to your father.
 
Remco

INTRODUCTION
 
 
This is the build log for Hr. Ms. O 19, one of only two submarines in her class of the Koninklijke Marine (Royal Navy).  Please forgive me for making this introduction very personal because she was part of my life and therefore holds a very special interest for me.  My father, Opperschipper (Adjudant) Petrus W. van Warmerdam, was with her from about one year before her launch September 22, 1938 till his promotion to Opperschipper in January 1941.   
At the time he was placed on the build he had the rank of Schipper, with the added function of Quality Control and Assurance Inspector and liaison between the Navy and the ship builder Wilton-Fijenoord in Rotterdam, the Netherlands. 
 
His second tour of tropical duty started right after his marriage to my mother in October 7, 1931, and they started a family while in Surabaya, the former Dutch East Indies.  My sister and I were born there, November 14, 1932 and April 15, 1934.  When his second six-year tour of tropical duty ended in the end of 1937 he had to return to the Netherlands.  Of course his family, my mother, sister and I, followed shortly after on the passenger liner M. S. Christiaan Huygens of the Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland, Amsterdam. 
 
When we arrived in the Netherlands we first stayed in Den Helder, the Royal Navy Base, but after hearing about the new class of submarines being build he immediately requested to be placed on them.  Because of his expert technical knowledge of submarines the Royal Navy agreed and he and his family moved to Vlaardingen Ambacht, Narcisplein 3 to be exact, a small town near Schiedam, in March of 1938.  Sjors and Anja know this area quite well.
 
The shipyard was located in Schiedam, the Netherlands and the boat he was assigned to happened to be the furthest along of the two in that class, mine laying submarines. 
 
The original design concept for a mine lying submarine was completed in December, 1934 and assigned numbers O 17 and O 18. (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)   However, the design was altered to a more squarish form amidships for better loading and discharging of the mines by engineer G. de Rooy.  (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)  Rumors have it that it is based on the design of the Polish submarine Orzel but cannot be confirmed.  The Orzel was also a mine-laying sub but I believe that the mine tubes were carried inside the main hull and not on the side as the O 19 class subs.  
 
The O 19 and O 20 were also the first subs equipped with “getrimd diesel system ,” where the boat could run on diesel power while submerged to charge the batteries and for ventilation.   This is commonly known as “Snorts,” or “Snorkels.”    Navigation was done via the navigation periscope.
 
The KM (short for Royal Navy in Dutch) used to classify submarines for domestic waters with O and those for the colonies with K (K stands for “Koloniën ” which means colonies).  They were originally assigned the numbers K XIX and K XX, which was changed to O 19 and O 20 sometime during their fabrication.  All subsequence submarines received the O designation till the end of WW II.  After the war all subs received names instead of numbers.
 
The O 19 was launched September 22, 1938 with my father onboard of course   and officially commissioned on July 3, 1939, my mother, sister and I were present for that event.  I was standing on extreme left of the photo, hidden behind the bow flag, next to my mother.  The ensuing trial runs were successfully conducted near de Scandinavian coast and the fiords where proof diving could be done more successfully.  Although the boat was designed for a maximum depth of 100 meters these proof dives were limited to 60 meters.
 
Special tests were to be conducted on the voyage to the Netherland’s East Indies to measure geological differences in the Earth’s crust when sailing over the continuation of a mountain range underwater as well as wave action while submerged.  She and her crew arrived safely and without any technical difficulties at the Navy Base in Soerabaja (old Dutch spelling) in September 1939.
 
My mother, sister and I followed in December of 1939 on the passenger liner M. S. “Johan van Oldenbarnevelt,” of the Stoomvaart Maatschappy Nederland.   Both the Christiaan Huygens and JVO served as troop transports during WW II.
 
On January 1, 1941, my father was promoted to Opperschipper (Adjudant) and had to be transferred to a surface ship of the KM, which was the light cruiser Hr. Ms. Java.   The reason for the transfer was dat that rank was not maintained on submarines.  That was the second time in my short life that I saw my father shed a tear.  He loved the submarine service that particular boat and the crew.   As all submariners know these small crews on the subs become like a family.  He hated the Java, that “old rust bucket,” as he called it and he was subsequently killed in action on that ship during the “Battle of the Java Sea,” 5 minutes before midnight on February 27, 1942.  A long-range Japanese torpedo hit the Java in the rear port side just where his battle station is.  Fortunately he never knew what hit him when the powder room exploded and 20 meters of that part of the ship just evaporated.
I have photographs of the wrecked stern section that lies 70 meters down on the sea floor and now have closure and sort of a “grave marker.”
 
Our lives changed dramatically shortly afterward when the Japanese successfully invaded the Dutch controlled Indonesian islands and made us “guests of the Emperor” of Japan, i.e. prisoners of war, and placed us into concentration camps for the duration of the war.  Yes, even women, and children, all non military people were classified as combatants and came under military rule and in charge of the Kempeitai.
 
Fellow ship model builders, something you may not know but the Japanese High Command gave orders in the beginning of 1945 to exterminate all POWs in September of 1945.  As terrible as the two atom bombs that destroyed Hiroshima and Nagasaki are, it saved millions of lives and is the reason I am alive today with two beautiful daughters and a grandson.  My wife too was a “guest of the Emperor” in a concentration camp in Semarang, Java.  It is also giving me the great pleasure counting all of you as my friends.
 
The O 19 served with distinction during the entire war and I am sure that my father would be proud of her and the crew.
 
Well then, this model is in memory of my father and I dedicate it to him and the crew he loved.  The boat is still with us today, albeit as a wreck on Ladd Reef in the South China Sea (19.93 Lat, 174.57 Long).  Due to a navigational error she ran right smack in the middle of that reef at low tide.  And yes, the crew survived and was rescued by the USS sub “ Cod,” which is moored permanently in Cleveland, Ohio, as a museum.   There are some interesting films on “YouTube” of the rescue 
 
My model will be at a scale of 1:50 which translates to 1.6 meter and only shows the exterior of the boat, except for the side-launch torpedo tube assembly.  This unit is mounted outside the main pressure hull, between the hull and the deck structure forward of the deck gun location. 
It will be plank on bulkhead, using poplar wood for the majority of the build.  For the deck structure I may use 1/32 inch plywood over a frame of poplar, covered with epoxy resin.  The simulated hull plating will be 150 lb hot pressed watercolor paper over 1.5 mm poplar planking and epoxy resin.   Other materials will be brass rod, brass and copper wire, plastics, cardboard material and whatever comes to mind to achieve the desired effect.
I’ll be using red Titebond glue, Elmer’s Carpenter’s WoodGlue Max, which is an interior/exterior glue and waterproof.  Of course CA will also be used when appropriate.
 
I am still doing research on the original paint scheme at the time of the commissioning but that point is still in the future.
 
The drawing section is to follow.
 
Cheers, 

..Thank you all for the comments and likes, as always they are appreciated and very motivating..
 
As I went along with the carvings they became a bit more “challenging” and the ornaments are certainly not replicas of the original.   The techniques i used are similar to what I have described before. Down below a few pictures to illustrate the progress.  

 

 

 

 

 
.. Dry fit .. 
 

 
in a closeup you will notice that "Abachi" might be a bit too grainy for this job.  
 

 
.. Anyway.. I can live with the end result.. 

Hello Steve your model is exstremely well done,neat ,coloring is awesome,I'm about ready to plank mine. Thanks for the excellent pictures,they will be a great help.Edwin

well folks......this was a very interesting couple of days.   I got a good head start on these boats.  the one thing I noticed,  is that there is no real curve to the gunwale {cap rails},  so i really don't need any type of jig to make the frame.   to do the scratch built one,  I will use the gunwale {cap rails].....I traced out the keel,  and cemented it on it.   I checked the gunwale to the diagram and found that it's the same size.
 

 
no pictures of the tracings...I'm afraid,   I was too far under the spell
 

 
in punching the parts out of the block,  I saw that they are too thick
 

 
so,  with the other parts block,  I thought to cut it in half.   it worked OK for the most part,  a chunk did break out of the halves........but the pieces can be glued back on
 

 
I did it with the scroll saw......I went out there and located the broken piece.  I was able to do this using the jig,  that I made to cut the Annegre.  made the perfect guide   the transom halves were made by tracing the stern of the plastic boat.......after cementing them in place,  I saw that they were too big and later trimmed them down.
 

 
punching out the 'adjusted' ribs......these look much better
 

 
some of the cast off wood was used to make the stern rabbits.....the first pair of ribs were cemented in place.  I made up a jig to measure out where the ribs were to go.
 

 
....and then the second pair
 

 
for the third and fourth pairs of ribs,  the larger ones will be needed.   to be sure that the widest part of the hull is achieved,  these ribs will be reversed,  to use the long end to the best advantage.
 

 
 

Yes, Denis, I felt something, and until now I didnt know what it is
 

 
Let the Force be with you

hey Bob...............BASHMAN!!!!!!!!!  
 
yes folks..........that seems to be the ticket around here!  I'll have to make a decent boat......there are two ways to do it,  and I think with what I have here......I'll try both!
 
yes John.....other woods......but I hate to see good parts go by the wayside   I'll try to use them.....but in a nice way,  of course.
 
if I were to use this boat as a plug J........it might come out too large.  the skeg looks too modern as well.
 
too late Nenad......I'm already there!      {can you see me waving to you?}
 
thanks to all who commented and for the likes.........I think it's kinda cool,  actually.   it's not every day,  that you'll see two ship's boats trying to woo over a ship,  that they hope to find themselves nestled in.   it's kinda like watch'in  'the bachelor' ...........but to keep with the medium,  I think I'll call it.........'the bashlor'  

in seeing what the Corel kit supplies for Jct for his ship's boat,  I thought it would be kinda neat to show you what the Billing kit offers.   they utilize a plastic boat fitted with wood parts.  there are just these parts,  as far as I can see....... although you must keep in mind,  that there are some parts missing in this kit.
 
looking at the parts diagrams,  I was a bit befuddled......the number stamped on the mini panels don't match up.......and I got two of them to boot!  I do have a couple of ideas running through my head for these parts.....one of them is to scratch out the keel and omit the plastic.....do the whole boat from scratch.   I'll look at my options and go from there
 

 
there should be only one of these parts panels in the kit.......these have an 'L' suffix.  the panel that goes to this kit has a 'T' suffix.   I am not sure what kit these go to......a boon?  I think so
 
the kit diagram of the parts panel only had six parts to it.........2 - # 30 parts,  and 4 - # 31 parts
 

 
in looking up any sort of assembly for the boat.....this is all I found
 

 

 
I also need to make another pair of cleats.   I have the regular style cleats,  but as you can see how they were laser cut,  one of the pairs were on the parts panel that this kit is missing.   still more to do in making the parts I need for her.
 

 
*footnote*:   after I had written this,  I tried a dry fit with the cap rail and the boat,  and I found that these don't match up either.  it's looking more and more like a scratch build.....hmmmmmmmmmm
 
well..........now,   that settles that,  now doesn't it?!?!

I decided to add the small railing around the opening to the lower deck
and leave off the stern railings (in front of the mizzen mast) that the Corel kit called for.
 
Stanchions pinned to deck.

 
Finished railing


 
Now turning my attention to the channels!
 
Thanks,
 
Frank
 

Hi...    Then I polished the middle of the hull ... I planked the visible parts of the bulkheads with planks 0.5 x5mm, I made the frames out of the strip 3x3mm, I made a platform on the bottom ... ! Note that this is not the flooring, but a platform, flooring would be turned vertically to the longitudinal axis. ..
 
...Here are photos :

Tthank you all for the compliments ...

schnu... model is to be in a work stand until it is completed, or until it is done ​​so much that can be placed in a display stand,,, in the work stand model must  stand solid that you can work all kinds of work: drilling, gluing, etc. ...
... The address of our site is lowermost in my profile ... thanks for asking ...

OK ... here are a few more photos ... now the hull is polished and ready for the next phase of work ...

Saints are marching on
 

 

 

Yesterday I presented to Admiral and Hothead my progress with riveted plates ...

Hothead was delighted, and, as he know EVERYTHING he was full of advises how to proceed ...

Admiral forgot her likes showed to rivets and hings at water posts, and ask me, why don't I just paint hull in gold ... from understanding support and delightness to the total misunderstanding I suppose this is usual path we all walk on here...

Finally, who care ... I enjoy in making every single plate ( ok, maybe I lie a little) ... almost every ... hardly wait to reach hulk part which will start to curve plate lines ... That will be interesting challenge ., but ... patience ... first three lines near to keel, then 2.3,4 to the waterline, then middle section (as I have seen on MSW) and then ...

Her Majesty asked me can I do this faster. I answered Her with question: Do you rather like nice or fast dress ? She answered: ok,ok, don't be angry, I am just female ...

I understand Her

Obviously next stage of madness ... talking with model

One day trip to Apatin



SPA "JUNAKOVIC" APATIN
 



As idiotic commercial said: YOUR PART OF THE PANONIAN SEA!
 
The Spa "Junakovic" is situated at the ledge of the same-named Park-wood and 4,5km far away from the
city of Apatin (Vojvodina, Srbija).Its thermal water is from 700m deepness and reaches the temperature more than 50 C. The thermal water of the Spa "Junakovic" is the same category as the water of the Karlovy Vary Spa (Czech
Republic), Harkan (Hungary) and Lipik (Croatia).
 
The medical therapies involve healing rheumatism of different origins, orthopedics and neurology diseases, gynecology diseases and diseases of the respiratory tract.

Ideal for Admiral's mother (80)

Among the complex of 10 outdoor pools, 8 paths Bowling aley (Kuglana "Banja Junakovic") and 4 tennis
courts, there is also indoor therapy pool, 2 finnish saunas and gym, and guests can relax with underwater
massage or hand massage (anti- celullite massage, relax, honey and chocolate massage, foot reflex zone
massage, scrub marine spa treatment, holistic and ayurvedic massage, argan oil treatment and
limf drenage), which is involved by convinient mini, daily, weekend and 7 day packages.

Whole day poor rain, so we (Admiral and me) delivered granny, and drive 200km to home

They recommend: Oligoessenthia body sculpting, body peeling with sea algeas and Moroccan wellness.
It is worth to mention that there is a Foot-path of health across the Park-Wood "Junakovic" and the
Spa "Junakovic" is connected with nearby Apatin and Prigrevica with cycling-paths.
 
Hipper modern object with really bad detail hand finishing works, prepared to allow all capabilities for organizing seminars (2 auditorias for 100 persons, with AV equipment), lunches and celebrations (a restaurant with
capacity of 450 persons).
 
Soon the Spa "Junakovic" will have one of the greatest Spa & Wellness Centre in the region, as they said

All in all, nice trip to relax overloaded brain. Unfortunately, nothing valuable from history to be seen there. From higway through local road between small unknown villages. In Ottoman times, many armies were trying to pass there and get stuck in swamps which do not exist now. Just passed or try to pass. Nothing interesting

Thank you guys for kind words. There is little fun in repeating, but there is a great joy watching progress of occupation of uncovered area of hull. 
 
Plates are marching ... 
 

 
or on this way
 

All "cooper" plates removed, and ... quess what ... start over, again. This time, I hope in a right way

So, "Third Hull war" begin. Me gainst 4-5000 pieces: draw, cut, rivet, glue, place, and again: draw .... 

Here are photos of first steps


 

 

 


And now this log enter to boooring phase, exept if I found something interesting to ask/share/think about

Thank you Amfibius, special for you (of course for others as well ) some aditional picture from cheeks production. Pictures of assembled masts follow

Hi Jeff, I am very glad that you like my work. Today I´m posting last pictures from the production of hull - lanterns. This concludes the first phase of construction.
 
After a short break I will continue with production of masts, sails and rigging.

Hello Sherry,Just brilliant work,you can be very proud.Edwin