edmay

Hello ,As usual more amazing workmanship and inventive ideas, well done .Edwin

The cap rails on top of the bulwarks that run the length of the entire ship except the poop deck are completed. This was a tedious task since they are made from scratch with many little pieces. All of the parts including the little vertical support posts, the railings, and the bits on the forcastle are made from 4mm x 1mm walnut stock. The only exception are the railings that have the sharp curves at the ends. In order to make the bending easier, I used 2 strips of 4mm x 0.5mm walnut and laminated them on top of each other after bending, to form the 1mm thickness.
 
Now I will start at the bow and work on all of the deck fixtures and structures from stem to stern. This part of the build will take a long time.
 
Vince P.

I have placed the forward forecastle bulwark and railing, as well as the catheads. The metal pieces supplied in the kit worked out fine. Once I join this railing with the forecastle side railings, it will look very nice. I will construct and place the side railings next.
 
Vince P.

Hello Rich, you can make flags for the Flag Lockers. I bought several sheets of coloured paper from the news agent, a pound shop may also have them. Then cut small rectangles of different colours small enough to roll up and fit in the lockers, voila, flags for the Flag Lockers.
 
Kind regards
Gary

Greetings rich
there are no doors on the entry port. It's all looking good, well done. DAVID

Hello All, Thanks for the comments and Likes, as always very much appreciated. 
Kevin I did all three you said , I did think about pinning the channel plates 
Lawrence, Thanks and I thought the solder would keep it better secured.
 
Pictures of finished Port side,  (so far)

Thanks all ,
Bill, production will be in Czech Republic partialy from Italian components (at least for the start of production).
Daniel

Greetings again,
 
A lot of progress to report since the last post. I have finished the hull with the exception of the 3 large port covers (3 each P&S).
All of the deck furniture, pin rails, gangway stairs, rubbing boards, light and air port covers have all been installed. The paint has been tidied up. This appears to be an ongoing project. A coat of  Wipe on Poly applied to everything above the wales.
 
I am thinking about stringing all of the chain plate parts on a thin line and spray painting them with Model Master flat black aerosol. I don't know how this will work for the britainia metal. Any ideas would be welcome.
 
It was a very good week. I even figured out how to turn the pictures right side up- no more having to stand on your head.
 
Photos to follow
 
Looks like I have some more tidying up to do.
 
Regards

Greetings everyone,
 
Some progress to report, finally. Built and installed most of the deck furniture. Left to go are the pumps and the bumpkins. The hatches, cat heads, skylight, windlass, swivel gun stocks, rudder, knightheads and gangway ladders. The windlass is an abbreviated version. I could not figure out how to cut the square holes. When I laid all of the deck furniture out, they didn't want to fit. It appears that my afterdeck is too short, I can't find the reason. If I have to, I will leave out a hatch just aft of the main mast.
 
This is what happens when you bounce back and forth between two sets of plans- Corel and AOS. When will I ever learn!!!!!!!!!
 
There appears to be an asymmetry in the foredeck, The ships bell doesn't mount centered- a little to starboard.
 
This journey began as a replica of HMB Endeavour, it progressed to a Corel "kit bash", now it will wind up as a representation of a ship that sailed during that period. As Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) said, "a man's go to know his limitations." I am rapidly learning mine.
 
Next up will be the dreaded chain plates and dead eyes on the hull, using the long gun assembly as breaks, followed by beginning the masts and bowsprit.
 
I have now idea what happened with photos 2, 3 and 4. I know I didn't stand on my head.
 
photos follow
 
Regards,

Hi Mates,
 
A rather frustrating bit here with these falconets. First, as has been discussed Corel’s deck is too narrow. So carriages tend to be too close to each other in any case.
 
OK then the double blocks that I am using, as I had thought earlier, are a bit too large.
 
When laced with carriage single blocks they run into each other.
 
Then pulled the carriages away from the hull sides a bit, but as you can see they are (the carriages) way too close to each other now.
 
Then ha ha  I also realized that the blocks and tackles were way too close to the cannons on each side.
 
After looking at the other installations, realized that cannon vertical framings are double pieces, allowing for the blocks to mount a bit away from the carriages (pic 4)
 
Well as you can see in last photo – time for a fix again.
 
Cheers as always,
 

 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the “likes” much appreciated, as well as for your visiting this shipyard. 
 
Finished up the falconets. Install will be easy compared to the busy work that these little pieces required, but I am pleased with the results. Pics are self-explanatory so keeping this brief.
 
PS: I simulated the axle braces and the metal framings attaching cleats by using a small drill bit and barely indenting those surfaces. The illusion works well enough to look as if these parts are in fact properly attached to the carriages, I think J
 
The washers that became wheel caps were sourced from a model railroad hobby company. The washers are a bit too large, but I did not want to increase the size of the wheels. Close enough hmmm.
 
Cheers,

 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update, continuing work on the quarterdeck falconets; put together the needed block and tackles. Though I fear that the double blocks may be a size too big – not sure.
 
Ferit, as you can see I added your front framing (thanks for the tip).
 
Used small basswood strips, added a bit of a curve, painted and attached to carriage sides as axle and wheel supports.
 
I’ll post next after these two are installed.
 
Cheers,
 

No sweaters for me.
 
The agony.....besides my toothache.....its whether to gild or not???
 
I am leaning towards no gilding.  I do like it but its  just me.  It also shows every last surface pimple and carving screw up.   But it is a royal barge.
 
I think I like the way the carvings look with just WOP applied.   Which means I must carve another queen Anne cipher.   Oh well!!  The close-ups are also brutal....the smaller image looks more like the gilded example in reality.  It looks rather nasty in that large photo.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Hello Marcus, nice paint job ,thks for the book ref,will look for a copy on amazon ,Edwin

Nice Picture Sjors,Edwin

Mike:
I was watching - here's what I did with the decks.  The main deck and boiler deck are painted with Badger Acrylic Modelflex Marine Paint #16-401 Anti-Fouling Red Oxide (same as Boxcar Red Oxide #16-14 in their Modelflex RR paint colors).  I use only Badger Acrylic Modelflex Marine Paints and use Badger airbrushes except for the occasional brush touch up.  The finger joints on the boiler deck and the upper decks went together seamlessly with just some filling of the butt joints.
 
The "tarpaper" on the upper decks/roofs is Silkspan meant for aircraft models.  I think rice paper would work as a substitute as I think it was mentioned somewhere on MSW that Silkspan isn't being made for the aircraft modelers now.
 
The tarpaper is glued down to the deck using Artists Matt Medium.  The brand I used is Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic Medium.  It is a think, white liquid that dries completely clear.  I used a scalpel to cut the silkspan into scale 3 ft wide strips.  I kept the scale length to 20 ft or so.  The silkspan was laid onto a sheet of glass and the matt medium was brushed onto the silkspan getting a good coat onto it.  The strip was laid down onto the deck/rook and smoothed into place.  The next strip was laid end to end with the first with a slight overlap - you want the overlap to show.  About a scale 3-4 inches.  The strips were laid down the full length of the exposed deck.  The next strips were overlapped along the length of the strips about the same as the end to end joints on the first strips.  The end to end seams were also overlapped.  Don't worry if a bit of the matt medium oozes out of the seams as it will have a slightly darker appearance that will look just like tar had oozed out of the joint.  The lower photo shows the tarpaper seams - sorry about the construction dust in the photo.  The surface was brush painted after the strips were all in place using Badger Acrylic Modelflex Marine Paint #16-413 Wrought Iron Black (Same as Weathered Engine Black [#16-05] in Badgers RR line of Modelflex Paints.
 
Looking at many riverboat photos show that with very few exceptions tarpaper covered the upper decks that also served as roofs.  There were sometimes planks laid out to make walk ways to prevent foot traffic from opening up leaks.  These decks were for crew use only.  Any area of these upper decks intended for passenger use had planks provided as a walking surface.  The planks in passenger areas were held together with cross wise battens on the underside - this also elevated the planks a bit off the surface to keep things dry under the planks.
 
I hope this helped.
 
Kurt

as mentioned earlier........good suggestion about the flux,  in the event that the welding wire has some sort of coating on it.
 
I used a Q-tip to swab the wire with flux.   I believe the wire changed hue a little bit there.   it may have been the case,  because it went a bit better after that.   I still had some trouble with the heat transfer loosening up the closest rung....I had to keep going back over them.  it turned out to be a good thing though,  since it picked some of the excess solder along the way.
 

 
at this point,  I measured it with the ruler... 6 3/4........getting close to the 8 inch mark.  I counted the rungs......I was curious.
     it felt like more than that.   is this one of those thankless repetitive tasks I hear tell about?
 

 
the solderings are getting better..........with a little filing,  it should look OK.
 

 
finally.........I made it!   I even gave it a little more....just in case  
 

 
might be hard to see.........8 1/2!   not for the sizing and clean up!

I put flux on the parts even though I'm using flux core solder.  It seem to help.  But like everything else soldering takes practice to make it look good.  By the time you finish the eight inches the solder should look pretty good.  Then you'll want to go back and redo the start.
 
Bob

I'm not sure how it works with this type of soldering but when I was a bench jeweler I always applied flux to the joint before soldering. That was a whole different kind of soldering so I don't know if it works the same here.
 
Jesse

OK........I did say I'd try and show you what I'm doing for this ladder.   the welding wire is stretched out on the board,  the spreader is set up with pins,  to keep the width of the wire even all the way down.   I need the ladder to be around 8 inches long.....the longest ladder I've ever done.   I liked some of the results from my experiments.....but there is one method I haven't tried yet....solder.   I take that back.........I did try it and I failed........I will attempt it again.  so I've soldered around five or six rungs at this time...........seems every time I start,  something comes up......GRRRRRR?!?!?!?!
 

 

 
looks kind of gaudy to me....which is what I encountered the last time I tried this.   here is the spreader......set up and doing the job.......I may have to adjust it from time to time.
 

 
I have both means to solder.....this one allows me to do this in the house.   the other one will no doubt set off the fire alarms....he..he  {second floor does it all the time.....she's a bad cook!}.  I've had this soldering iron for quite some time.....I should try out the new one I found.......yepper.....found
 

 
I'm using light electronics solder to do this.........I'm wondering if a flame would lessen the amount of solder.   I'm trying to use as little as I can.  should I also sort of paint the wire with the flux before soldering,  instead of just dipping the tip of the iron in it?   there is a rosen core in the soldering wire,  but probably not enough for the application i'm using it for.
 

Wow!!!...... this is a great!! build Denis.... just found this one.....  love what you  are doing with this build,
this one is going to be hard to top
 
Frank

Just found your build log Denis. Very nice craftsmanship! It's looking great!
 
Jesse

I got a little further.........added some brackets for lights.
 

 

 
 
 
still more to add.........thanks for look'in in  

hello all.........I finally found some time at the table.   actually,  it was a bit of a shake - up.........I wanted to bring the trawler back to the table,  to work on the mast........but the tree boat was just going on.......and on.......and on.   other projects on the home front began to creep in,  and soon,  I found myself in limbo    a couple 'o weeks 'o that though,  an' it was all I kin stand!........so,  I pulled out my savior.....the Midwest 'Chesapeake Bay Flattie' kit I've had stashed in my closet!  I'd bring it out and tinker with it from time to time.........never putting cement to it,  but piecing things together and figuring out how to best save the parts panels,  so I can reuse them  {you know how I roll  }.
 
so.......while I'm toying with it,  I've done some work to the mast   I was not convinced I wanted to do a top for the first step,  but I changed my mind........it will have one.  I used the arms for the boom rigging,  as support braces.
 

 
with the mast in place on the Syborn,  I no longer have to wonder which side of the mast,  is the front.
 

 
a front piece was cemented on to cap it off.   there is more that will be added,  but it's a good start.
 

 
in my messing around with her again........I'm thinking the gallows are out of scale.    I may make some new ones  

Looks superb, love it