edmay

well........what the heck have you on the build table now?  if it's 'zero'......that the question you need to pose to the admiral     mine would just tell me...."silly boy.....go scratch one!"  but even with all my projects,  and what I have in the closet......she still got me one for X-mas.   it's the 'Norden' by Billings...an advanced beginner's kit,  to be sure,  but I think I can make it a full blown project  
 
give my regards to urmilla,  and to you as well  

Hello Denis ,I concur with Sjors ,"A piece of art is being built in your dry dock"a modeler of many talents well done , I mentioned a second job to the admiral for a boat fund ," forget it you have enough"kind regards to you both ,really nice work ,Edwin.

hey howya goin Hennie mate, welcome, yeah you got it right. I do love it when people show whats in the kit, best of luck mate.

Congratulations Hennie! And welcome to the wonderful world of the Sovereign! The wait will be worth it, I've enjoyed my build of her significantly. Mine is from the original Sergal production but basically the same kit. 

Holy cow Hennie, Thats huge!

Hello Denis ,I concur with Sjors ,"A piece of art is being built in your dry dock"a modeler of many talents well done , I mentioned a second job to the admiral for a boat fund ," forget it you have enough"kind regards to you both ,really nice work ,Edwin.

Hello Denis ,I concur with Sjors ,"A piece of art is being built in your dry dock"a modeler of many talents well done , I mentioned a second job to the admiral for a boat fund ," forget it you have enough"kind regards to you both ,really nice work ,Edwin.

Hello Denis ,I concur with Sjors ,"A piece of art is being built in your dry dock"a modeler of many talents well done , I mentioned a second job to the admiral for a boat fund ," forget it you have enough"kind regards to you both ,really nice work ,Edwin.

Hello Denis ,I concur with Sjors ,"A piece of art is being built in your dry dock"a modeler of many talents well done , I mentioned a second job to the admiral for a boat fund ," forget it you have enough"kind regards to you both ,really nice work ,Edwin.

thanks for your kind comments Bob,  Pat,  and Sjors     ......and thanks to those who hit the like button.   I went a little further after I had posted the update,  adding the aft overhead rack,  the bilge pumps and winch.  



once I get through  my work week,  I should be able to make more progress. thanks for look'in in  

Just a piece of art!
 
Sjors

with the finish of the stern railing,   I figure I have enough finished fittings to add them to the ship.   for the poop railing,  I added a thin strip of mahogany on the top and gave it a coat of flat lacquer.  I would have done this to the stern railing,  but bending it in the way I'd have to,  would be a fool's errand.   

in adding this.....I need the ladders now.   I made a pair......they're not perfect,  but they do the job.


the stern railing was added next......these pictures don't do it justice.   I took several,  and these two were the best.


I dry fitted the fife rails and think they are a little too tall.   I'm thinking of shortening the legs,  but it might be harder when it come to rigging.   chance I'll have to take I guess.

I think I've gone stark railing mad!!!!!!   I think I've practiced enough......time to make the ones I really need.     the fife rails and overhead racks have been painted.......now they dry.


these railings came out the best I've done yet.......


too bad they are the wrong length........can't cut 'em down either.   I made another pair.   I'l making them the same way I did the others........sandwich them to create a ladder,  and then cut it in half,  making two identical railings.   I'm sure I can use them somewhere.    as you may recall......I had cut out two of the transom cap rails........the one I didn't use ended up in the box.   I will use it to make the railings.   sanding it down in width,  the holes were drilled in it........trying hard to keep it from breaking,  and the stanchion spacing even.

more wires were cut.......I had used my reserve up.   they were then cemented around the base.......I didn't make a pair like the others.

using the jig I made,  they were all trimmed to length.

the thin wire was strung onto the stanchions........those tweezers work great!   they straighten the wire really good.   

once the Ca dried,  all three railings were painted.   


now I need to make a pair of ladders........these are going to be small  

so back to the bounty the ply wood deck is fitted then a simple jig made to cut all the planks to a consistent length of 120mm.
I got the length and the lay out of the planks from a link found above in this log provided by donrobinson .
I toyed about doing some sampling with the finish of the boards using a pencil and some yacht varnish im unsure if I will use this method and will try other finishes before deciding . on my victory build I used clear satin varnish but it drys out like no finish has been applied at all .I do like the yacht varnish but feel it might be a bit to shiny any suggestions would be welcome thanks
ive read about treenailing and read a post where a member wished he had not attempted it and wasent happy with the result so I will skip this on this build a perhaps attempt it on a later build

Hello all there has been a bit of a delay on the bounty build I promised myself before I started the build I would create more storage for my dining come hobby room .I started the bounty regardless then the winter has well and truly began so I went back to the storage issue before it gets to cold in the garage  .I built a tool box a few years ago for my garage workshop but it soon found a home with my modelling tools so the lower box you will see in the pics is my latest creation to hold more tools in doors.so now that that's finished I can close up the garage workshop for the winter and concentrate on the bounty build except for ocasionaly nipping out to use the bandsaw or disc sander the whole set up in my dining room come hobby room takes only a few mins to set up and parks neatly under my victory when im finished for the evening

Enjoy!  
 
Robin

This arrived safely today courtesy of a very kind member robin lous a big thank you to robin this will greatly help my build.
I particularly like the paint scheme that the book depicts and the drawings will help me scratch build the deck furniture and include a flag locker not included in the billings kit and im sure there is many other items I will change in accordance to this book
Once again robin I thank you for the help and will ensure to return the book upon completion of my build.
 

Sure...it's gathering dust here. When you message me an adress...I'll send it to you tomorrow.

Nice Steve!
 
When you like...I can borrow you the Anatomy of the Ship Bounty book. I have it for 25 years or so and I don't have plans to build a Bounty, so when you can use it...just let me know.
 
Robin

so to bring things up to date the next series of photos show the build commencing using the two scratch build parts

At this stage I have decided to scratch build the two faulty pieces and work on other things such as the stairwells

I disagree with Canute. One of the reasons for sealing is to prevent the wood from taking stain color unevenly. Secially in the case of porous woods such and oak and pine. Pine for instance if left unsealed will be blotchy od where theres knots will not take stain at all. Also you need to seal before any paint or lines are put on as your paint will run along the grain of the wood and lose its sharpness.

No, since you've just sealed the wood. I'd recommend staining first.

I think the sealer would improve the use of CA as the wood is sealed and the CA won't soak in so much. If you apply CA to end grain often it will just soak in and leave no glue on the surface so you have to reapply the glue.

I debated writing this but then thought it couldn't hurt: sandpaper. Use it! I don't want to name and shame anyone, but there is a huge proportion of finished models displayed on MSW on which the detailed photos of deck fittings or mast details show a lack of adequate sanding and surface prep. It looks like a lot of builders punch out the laser cut parts and incorporate them directly into the model without sanding to an adequate degree. I KNOW that close up photography of small parts reveals flaws not visible to the naked eye but some of the model photos I see show that a lot of small wooden parts are going onto models without enough sanding taking place, the surfaces are often covered in irregular globs bumps and spikes.
since most kit models are basswood, it helps to recognize that the biggest drawback of basswood is it's fuzzyness. In other respects it's a great material but at the near-microscopic level fibers at the edges are very stringy, they don't break off neatly at the surface of the wood but cling on randomly as fuzz. Paint or varnish going on over this fuzz only serves to make the fuzz bolder and stick out in hardened spikes and that's what I'm looking at in these detail photos I'm seeing. I'm going to make another plug for the use of a Sanding Sealer. Available in any hardwear store, one can should last your entire modeling career. I use a water based Minwax Sanding Sealer. It paints on like thin acrylic paint, completely transparent. When dry it has the effect of darkening the wood just a bit. Is that so bad? The surface you get has hardened and feels shellacked. When you go over it with fine sandpaper those annoying stringy grainy fibers break right off at the surface in a way that reminds you of those old animated cross sectional shaving razor commercials in which each hair is lifted and cut perfectly at its base. You get a smooth surface where the grain is still visible but not in the form of huge peaks and deep valleys, a surface that can withstand the scrutiny of close-up miniature photography.