Egilman

Yep, it was definitely a last option to live choice......

Yeah, but there isn't much to change and you shouldn't have to cut the wing.... The inner hinged panel if a flat piece of plastic cut into an appropriate shape and a X shaped folding brace on the outside, then a single shaft from the middle of the brace to just inside the hinge point of the inner panel in the middle.... Just a couple of hours is all it would take.... With them down, there is no need to relieve the wing recess as most wouldn't know the difference.... But it is your airplane, and it's looking good....

Suggestion brother, don't cut the bases completely off, just shave them down leaving just enough surface for a good glue hold and lay your soil right up to their feet.... Easier to do and more secure.... If you have ever tried to drill pin holes in skinny, tiny plastic legs, you would know why... You already know what happens to a tiny glue joint with a larger mass on the other side.... Breath on them and they break off... Shave the base down as small and thin as you can with them still standing on their bases, Glue the base to the surface using Gator's glue, then lay the soil up to their feet over the remaining base to hide it, you will be a lot happier in the long run....

Now this is what I wanted to sea..... Second coat on, over in the corner about half dry..... (a bit shallower angle as well) THAT looks like the subject pic in color..... Yay Team!!! Onwards...

Especially in the summer... no set pattern either.... very similar to the french WWI three color camo they put on the FT-17s except the bloches were fewer and bigger.... I always thought painting camo on german tanks was the easiest of the bunch behind US tanks....

Your seeing the same thing I am my friend... where the paint is pulled out, it is brighter cause of the white tp underneath.... And it stands out... I should have dark based it...... Where it overlaps it's dark enough so I think I'll put a second coat on it and see where I'm at.... Should have less white gleaming through.... I think I'm on the right track.... Thanks Ed....

Hey brother, I forgot something... Dish soap..... 1 part white glue, 2 parts water and a tsp of dish soap, you know the squirt bottle type.... It acts as a surfactant breaking the surface tension of the water so it soaks in easier.... So the glue mix doesn't bead up and lay on the surface.... Works a lot better this way.....

Ok took another pic without the camera flash.... And the comparison... Before I go to darkening, I'm going to give it a second coat..... I probably should have put a dark base under the blue.... Opinions?

Short update.... Finished the TP application, time to break out some paint..... First application will be the Pthalo Blue, probably going to be a bit bright in first application...... Not sure, need to let it dry first... Probably should have used royal blue.... it's a hair too blue..... Either a black wash, or a streaking of blue/black to darken it some.... Onwards....

You've got the skill, the way you paint those figures, a seascape is easy peasy..... Really, they aren't hard at all my friend........

I've seen some that were two color when all they had was green to paint with, but usually they were three color..... Sand Yellow, Forest Brown & Tree Green... (at least that is what I call them) I found that Military Brown, Olive Green over a sandy Yellow gives a good rendition of the scheme especially when washed with dark dark brown..... (won't pass the rivet counters or rusty bucket people though)

There is a lot of custom to that 1/1 version, and it's real purty as well, thankfully they didn't chop it... Chopping ruins the classic lines in my opinion.... Thankfully they kept the runnin' boards.... Another classic to go into the collection.... I'm in...

Yep a 33% mix white glue to water, (1 part glue 2 parts water) through a spray bottle.... I'll never forget that mix...... Model railroad's most used glue mix.... Gonna look fantastic.....

Simple fix brother..... a flat panel on the bottom of the wing and an x brace to the outside........ She is just too purty.....

I'm happy you got it sorted brother.... it's good news.... Stay well my friend, It turned out fine...

Actually, they were hydraulically operated.... Here is an example of how they functioned... Yes this is a scale model but the retracts are modeled to function the same way the real ones did.... Also yes this is a PBY not a Coronado, but the mechanism was licensed by Consolidated from Saunders-Roe and they were not allowed to change it.... The Coronado had the exact same function... No cables involved.... It was hydraulically actuated mechanics...

My pleasure Brother, I'll keep doing it as long as people put up with it.... It's an old standby for putting wrinkly textures on smooth surfaces, been around for generations....

I hear that a lot of #%@$$#^^**#%@$ type language helps....

Yep, wing tip floats first showed up on the PBY Catalina I believe in '35, they had been licensed from Saunders-Roe...... A very innovative clean design.... Consolidated kept it when they designed the Coronado...

I missed this one? glory beeee.... Brother you pull this one off there is nothing you cannot build..... My eyes are just too done for that scale... I've done quite a few 1/700 before and actually had a 1-700 Kido Butai display, (was only missing the tankers) but I sold it cause it was just too large for my space.... (6 aircraft carriers & two battleships in dual column formation will do that to a display) My hat's off to those who can do PE in this scale and make it look good.... I respectfully doff my hat to you sir.... You are braver than I...

Another small update.... Prepping the surface for detailing..... This is where the Modeling Paste comes in, eliminating any defects in the foam forming heat process... Using an artists knife to spread the paste over the deep ripply bubbles formed by the heat gun.... First application was a bit thick around 1/8th inch.... This paste dries hard, very hard and shrinks a bit so the expected cracks appeared, a second thin skin coat took care of those..... Overall it the 1/8th thick coat took about 6 hrs to dry completely, the skim coat took about 2 hrs.... I left it overnight to make sure it fully dried.... Next comes the TP and glue application... TP & white glue has been used for eons as a modeling material, from this type of application to making tarps for armor, it is very versatile.. You first start by gluing down a layer of TP.... 1st sheet.... 2nd sheet and so on and so forth till the surface is completely covered... Then you come back over it with a second layer and as you can see it is really unavoidable to create a texture... This will now sit overnight to dry as well before I add the wavelet texture layer which will be two more layers of TP... I will not be looking for coverage on the next two layers, but trying to create the small waves being blown up across the swell.... Onward.....

Thank you very much my friends, Mike I like showing the process, how I get from image to finished model... The research is part of that.... Ed, what I'm doing is kinda an amalgam of the various techniques out there, my first was an ugly board painted blue with some melted styrene foam to represent waves..... I've learned a lot more since then.... My problem was starting always worried if will come out right for what I'm modeling. For the most part I'm beyond that stage now, but I wouldn't be here if I didn't try..... I hope you all like it when it's done and it doesn't look like a rock thrown in a pool.... {chuckle}

Probably I would presume, would need more power than a rubber band as well....

Yep, Inspirational genius's..... Took them ten years to prove in court that Curtis's ailerons were just a different mechanical interpretation of their patented inspiration on how birds controlled their flight.... The unfortunate thing is it cost them their company and world wide leadership in aeronautical design..... By the time they got back into designing airplanes they were so behind the curve they could never make up the lost time.... The list of their contributions to flight is very long, starting with the creation, (out of thin air so to speak) of the whole science of Aeronautics...... They were the first to understand what was happening with wind flowing over a wing and how to adapt it for control.... Most of the terms used to describe it were coined by them, they established aspect ratio as a measure of lifting capacity for a given airfoil shape and with their invention of the constant velocity wind tunnel, what that capacity was in real world terms.... The proper form of a propeller was a rotating wing which would actually provide thrust rather than just move air.... The list is almost endless.... They hand carved the most efficient propellers ever made... (78% efficient even modern engineering hasn't come close to matching that even today) Hundreds of books have been written on what they accomplished, but most do not know, the public sees them as the first to fly, the more educated understand they were the first to build a truly three axes controllable airplane.... (they designed the Wright Flyer deliberately to the absolute edge of controllability to prove it, as unstable as possible and still be able to fly) And that is only 1% of what they accomplished...

Absolutely Ken, that was a natural outgrowth of getting the control surfaces out of the compressed airstream.... One thing Dan brought up was counter balancing control surfaces to prevent dynamic coupling.... Adding counter balances to elevators on aircraft was first done to control flutter... The mechanical effect was to increase the mass of the surface so it would be less effected by turbulence.. when they realized that there is just so far they can increase mass before they affect controllability, so they went to mounting the extra mass ahead of the control surfaces pivot point, (counterbalances) This had the effect of increasing mass without increasing the required force to move them... It also had the effect of taking less pilot input effort to move the control surfaces making the aircraft super responsive.... In essence it increased the mechanical advantage of the controls, which of course made the aircraft able to fly faster..... (greater stability in the control surfaces allow faster airflow over the surface, hence the airplane can fly faster) But like everything else it had it's limits and the mass of pressurized air would also increase as the plane flies faster until the point that no amount of mechanical advantage could overcome it's effect... This is what happened to both the P-38 and the Corsair as originally designed..... The counterweights and widening of the elevator on the Lightning overcame most of the compressibility effects except at the most extreme edge of the speed envelope... Moving the elevator pivot point forward and adding hydraulics on the Corsair overcame the flutter problems associated with it's prototypes.... It was all a learning process, the advancement of engineering and the understanding of dynamic the processes involved.... These aircraft were designed to fly right out to the edge of the flight envelope.... And one of the most amazing things to me, is all of it, engineering and advancement of science, can be directly related all the way back to the Wright Brothers....