Egilman

You have the technique down brother, excellent rendition of a chimney, darken it a hair to show some age and you won't be able to tell the difference from real life... Your work amazes me....

Absolutely! just watch out for those shipping charges to the US, WOW!!!! Bought a model from Great Hobbies (another great Canadian shop), $130 US for the model turned into $205 shipped... I canceled the order.... Got the same model from Hannant's (hard to find kit) plus two others in the harder to find category and wound up at $210 shipped for three hard to find models from England no less...... Just a reminder to check your shipping charges, some mailing services are insane...

Oh yeah it's available, model railroaders go to when all else fails... Hundreds of places to get it and hundreds of ways to build hills and mountains with it... I still have several rolls in my railroading stash along with the rockface molds and woodland scenic's vegetation and ground covers... I agree with jack on tracing the outline of where the slopes should be both horizontally and vertically the reason for this is you want to build it apart from the castle itself... Build it in sections and add them to the model as you go... Makes it a lot more manageable, and you can refine or adjust the technique as you go... Made many mountains in my day, it's a fun type of modeling....

Take care of the important things first brother, we will wait for you...

Oh I'm definitely down for this.... And I promise I won't fire any of my siege guns during the building, not even in practice... (chuckle, gotta build them first)

Well done brother... {chuckle} Although I believe we don't have that many absolute purists around here...

OUCH!!!! Did something similar when I was a kid, you know Kids, Hill & Snow = Unforeseen, Sometimes painful, setbacks.... (which are by their nature more easily remembered than the thrill of downhilling) Get well brother... EG

Thank God for the tiny umbrellas.... {chuckle}

Nope that's not it, but what it would probably do very well is take your finish off the model... Yes, Future/Pledge Revive It is an acrylic sealer and smoother, on a floor it fills and removes the micro scratches that make a floor dull thus making it shiny again... It's designed to make any surface with a micro wear pattern glass smooth again... Flat paint is designed to have a micro rough surface so it reflects no light that's why it looks dull.... And a passing note for the future/pledge users out there... https://cmass.org/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=10&id=8651&Itemid=230 Future/Pledge Revive It has been discontinued by SC Johnson, it is no longer being made.... Get it while you can.... (and is still reasonably priced) Amazon UK is already out of stock!!!! Ebay is still reasonable though... (but won't be for long) https://picclick.co.uk/Pledge-Cleaner-Revive-It-Floor-Gloss-Original-27oz-114522406027.html

Fantastic job brother! Sure looks the part! I like your mud representation especially the stuff streaking the hardware, looks real... The FWD looks like it has to really work to pull that Mk VI howitzer even though it is only the gun and doesn't include the firing platform... Very Very well done.. It will be an inspiration for my American Mk VI Howitzer... (when I get around to building it) It arrived today in the mail, 45 days from order to delivery, talk about a slow boat...

Shep Paine passed from a stroke in 2015, Francois Verlinden retired in 2016 after moving to the US in 2015 and closing down his business, unfortunately all his molds were destroyed.... I used to have an extensive collection of VP, but I sold them all off when they reach premium pricing... Wish I still had them now.... Their books are still widely available especially on Amazon Prime....

Had that happen all too often before... My solution is to take the gordian knot and place it back into the water, they usually will unfold themselves with a minimum of prodding and can be picked up on a flat brush and placed on the model... But then, there have been those times, where even that doesn't work.... (which results in the same unprintable ideals, chuckle) Paddinghouse, Xtradecal, Printscale and Techmod all have suitable replacements...

Beautiful work brother and a happy new year to you....

The Master at it again, I'm down for this....

Well ignore me then, I detest the "Experts" the bolt and rivet counters that take all the fun out of exploring the subject... We build to our individual standards brother and it can't be any other way.... Whatever you decide to build I will enjoy looking in, If I can offer any help I'm here but remember, always build to your satisfaction... It's going to sit on your shelf not anyone else's.... Your bent winged bird is one of the best I've seen done in 50+ years of modeling.... Very pleasing to the eye and something to be proud of...

Personally, it's been a while since I've seen a decent Arizona build... I have the same kit coming to stash next to my Banner AZ and everything I've collected over the years for it... Lotsa options as far as coloration for her as well given the state of paint in the US Navy circa 1940/41.... It's a stunning model when complete....

I understand, having suffered the same thing... I think it's perfect, no one could have done better... And your master level weathering is the icing on the cake so to speak... It is in scale and appropriate for the subject... Very well done...

Yep Woodland Scenic.... They still have it...

Wow we've been frequenting some of the same web spaces brother... Panzer concepts US 6" cannon... The Holt "75" Tractor and Das Werk 155mm C17S Howitzer... Been contemplating how to do that camo .... The 6" Gun was a coastal defense gun that was pulled from it's mounting and put on a "Mobile" Carriage... There were two different versions the M1917 and the M1918 as you can see in the pic, they were shipped to France but the war ended before they could be deployed... The kit depicts the M1918, I haven't looked at it close enough to see if it can depict the M1917 yet, but all the parts are there... It a fantastic piece of 3D print work... Comes with it's transport wagon and limbers as well... Great minds think alike... {chuckle}

You sure it's 1/350th? I have the same kit coming out of Ukraine now for 19 days and tracking says it hasn't left there yet... but it's in 1/35th scale... Been going on a WW I binge as of late... expanding the stash... {chuckle}

Just a historical note Brewster Buffaloes were delivered in bare metal, they were in some cases the front line aircraft where they were stationed although they were essentially obsolete at the start of the war... all of them were painted in the field with makeshift sprayers, anything they could adapt and the usual panel masks for doing such were unavailable... Hence the "Soft/Wide Edge" look.... Probably a little too soft but close to what they really were before they were all shot down.... I agree, he's getting better and better each one he does Dan....

You did great brother looks the part to me.... Sometimes dry stippling a sponge is the best way....

They have the primo 1/48 Fury right now, they won't even think of 1/32 until someone else like Tamiya announces one.... The Hobbycraft kit is the only game in town.... Evilbay has them at 200.00 US dollars right now (up to 280.00) and as you say they are OOP so they are going to go up in the future... A Fischer kit is in the stratosphere range right now, high end collector type stuff... (if you can find one)

I love that PSP base, did you create it, or was it purchased? Looks great with the plane sitting on it...

Absolutely my friend, Microscales product only works for a few days before it attaches and becomes next to impossible to remove.... In situations where the masking has to stay on for multiple applications of spray products I found that regular old latex silicone painters clear caulk works the best.... Won't harden for months, can be spread thinly and sticks without lifting from liquids, is absolutely impenetrable to paint & thinner products but it easily pulls off when you want to remove it... The one problem is it is only available in contractor grade quantities... So using it becomes cost prohibitive given the amount we typically use on models and there is no way to seal it up to prevent drying in the container.... The application of it to canopies and any kind of glass like framework is to mask off the areas you want to paint, spread on a thin coat, then while still wet pull the masks off the frames leaving a future coated, caulked canopy with just the frames exposed to paint... I know it sounds kinda backwards, but it works... (if the model is worth the costs associated with this technique) I prefer Formula 560 for affixing canopies and windows, personal preference, (second choice would be Gator's Grip Thin Blend) and they give me the least headache when I have to remove one.... Yep that one of the bumpy trails we go down in our journey's, all I can say is keep trying and experimenting with other products till you find the combination that works for you... And once you do, never look back.... This one aside from the bleed under looks like it worked well.... It happens to everyone eventually... Nice recovery...