Egilman

The voice of experience I assume..... {chuckle} Amen Brother...

Tamiya Fine White or Grey are the only two I use anymore, Fine White for bright colors and ultra smooth surfaces and Grey for the rest... It does smell a bit but it's the fastest drying primer I've found and covers great... It also lays down the dead flattest I've ever experienced... leaves a smooth surface without runs or puddles and it will take both sprayed and brushed paint, enamel or acrylic..... To me it is the best available model paint primer hands down.... None that I know of either... Acrylics don't have the bite of Enamel, they don't attach to the surface very well and forget smooth surfaces.... +1 +1

On a production corsair nothing was cloth..... All aluminum.....

Oh Brother, it was nothing of the sort.... Sometimes you have to put several coats of future down before there is sufficient smoothness for decals... the look has to be at least semi-gloss with complete coverage of where the decal is going to sit... The water soluble glue they use to affix the decal to the paper should be removed completely and with the surface smoothness the only way it adheres is tightness to the surface... Then the Micro Sol reduces the film making the inked decal seem painted on.... Micro Set aids in adhering the film to the surface supposedly by softening the painted surface but in reality it is a surfactant, it evaporates leaving no air between the film and surface.... As it dries it sucks the decal down tight against the smooth surface.... They are doing the same thing when they put window tint on car windows or UV film on commercial windows... The surfactant dries and sucks the film to the smooth surface... A lot of people like to blame the setting solutions but for every complaint there are thousands and thousands of successful applications... Those reviews and logs where you see such complaints are generally from those that do not completely understand the process and what happens during each step.... Without that understanding, the blame for the outcome comes to the easiest thing to blame, not where it really belongs... No blame was cast here brother, just trying to educate, my apologies if it came across as something else...

Micro set is nothing but acetic acid (vinegar) mixed with water... Micro Sol is a combination of alcohols, I do not know which ones nor their percentage of mix... Walther's Solvaset is the same mix as Micro Sol, (but I do not know it's percentages either) and do the same things as Micro Sol... Users preference as to which works better... I've reached the point where I no longer use Micro Set and go straight to Micro Sol over Future over Enamel paint... (I do not use acryls except for Future) I have never had a problem with Micro Sol or Solvaset over Future and I've used both... One issue just might be the version of Future used, there are several versions in fact... There is the clear acrylic version in the squeeze bottle, the milky looking cloudy version in the pour bottles and from what I remember several other versions available in the marketplace... They are NOT all equal... For example... Two different products... Take a look at the scan tag on the back of the bottle... IDENTICAL! they are the same product.... It is also the correct product for decaling either one... An example of an incorrect one? the one in the middle is not the same product as the two on the outside, it comes out of the bottle as milky white, more like an acrylic cover coat for bare wood floors which usually dries in an hour but takes several days to fully cure... Good for that new wood flooring you installed throughout your home not for painted surfaces.... You notice on the two outside3 bottles, the say protect and restore, they are a coating/sealer for already finished surfaces... There is a huge difference between the two.... Make sure your using the correct one.... PS: yes I've used straight, undiluted white vinegar to set decals in the past when I was out of Micro Sol, it does work very fast, but destroys more decals than it sets.... The cloudy future issue with setting solutions is not letting the acryl paints or future clear coats cure long enough before applying the future... This allows the Microsol alcohol based product to react with the future, 99% of the time a recoat of future will remove the cloudyness... Decals silvering is the decal not adhered to the surface allowing air to get under the decal, impossible to fix once a clear coat is applied and has nothing to do with the setting solutions... Sorry brothers, I have to say it... Decal silvering is caused by incorrect or careless application, period... EG

Good job.... Congratulations...

Oh Brother , another skeeter.... (chuckle) I'm in for this one....

Nice work...

Very Very well done! Those old Revell corsairs can be made to look great, as you've done here....

You forget the wax paper brother? I was taught to lay down a layer of it over the print so the glue wouldn't stick to the build surface, and if it did you could easily sand it off afterwards without damaging the rib structure....

The first pic look like it's taken of an everyday driver, the second and third pics look like a restored show car... the coolant expansion chamber on the left side radiator hose prevented overheating... This was the period where thermal efficiency was taking over ICE engineering... They learned that a pressurized coolant system virtually eliminated overheating.... I would say two different dates of manufacture.... It's the logical conclusion....

In 1957 Revell released three 1/28th scale aircraft, Richthoftens Dr.1, #H-270:198 Rickenbacker's Spad, #H-256:198 and Roy Brown's Sopwith Camel, #H-197:198 They were state of the art back then, they have been consistently re-released over the years, in many different boxings, currently still being released by Revell of Germany... The have held up very very well... In 1991 they released Lt. Franz Büchner's D.VII of Jasta 18, #85-4665 in that scale which is still being released by Revell of Germany as well but it wasn't part of the original series....

Your last pic reveals the problem.... Your canopy is sitting too high in the back, it is raised by the top of the fuselage, that is why it's not lining up correctly.... need to either shorten the canopy at the rear or cut back the fuselage in that area... It is supposed to be flush... Look at the cockpit coaming at the rear of the canopy, it is obviously too high, the bottom edge of the canopy should match the line of the track......... Beautiful work on the cockpit masking my friend...

This Century brother... That's no beginners work.... (this century, chuckle)

These old kits are great, but some of them are special, this is one of them.... They can be built into museum quality display of a modelers talents.... That is what we are seeing here.... Impressive work my friend.... I hope mine comes out as well...

I actually got an e-mail from them...

I'm here my friend... you know I won't miss this...

There is an F-14 in private hands that flies out of Tillamook Oregon, but it mostly sits on the ground, in the Blimp hanger in the museum..... The fuel costs are astronomical.... One other thing to note, all of these aircraft in private hands have been de-milled, no weapons, and are incapable of mounting weapons.... A requirement for civilian ownership...

Hi Steve, everything I used is in the thread, there is no specific design... It's a true scratch build based upon the images from the tech manuals using the dimensions from the same... No copyrights on that info, it's completely in the public domain and your welcome to grab it and use it anyway you wish... EG

It's insanity level pricing now, but people are paying it... I remember when a fairly large ship model was selling at the local five and dime for 2.99 to 5.99 and 5.99 was a LARGE model..... The average 1/72 scale airplane was selling for .75 cents... The tech level wasn't what it is today, but it's what you cut your teeth on when building, learning the techniques of producing accurate models.... The hobby today has changed so much that it's hard to recognize what it was when most of us started...

I've been using it for several years now, it's the only stuff I've found that removes that dielectric lacquer from the parts as well... Cleanup is a breeze and it's biodegradable... Brake fluid, Concentrated Bleach and oven cleaner are a thing of the past.... Best stuff available bar none....

Well my memory still works in my old age.... {chuckle} I'm glad you got an in-service engine shot as well, usually they are all polished up like show cars.... and they seldom look that way in real life... Look like you got it covered brother...

Yeah that's AK's answer to Rub n Buff... The engine in those was a cast Iron block with aluminum heads... and I believe they were painted... Hard shell black I believe and very very shiny... I haven't done any research on it though, just remembering off the top of my head... Cast steel is too light and when fresh has a slight shine to it... Cast Iron is more a greyish black or real deep gray with no direct sheen... it sorta glows instead... Yeah a black wash on what you've done would look good for an in-service used engine.....

1985 Vintage, 37 years young.... There's one available on evilbay right now at $265.00... I sold mine three years ago for 175.... I'm in, it's a gorgeous model worth doing right...

Try this one, you can ask if he can print it at 1-/250... as it is 1/240 won't show much difference... (he does do a 1/350 1.1 mount so it shouldn't be an issue...