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Bill97

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  1. Ian I had just said I was planning to add a combination of furled, partially unfurled, and fully unfurled sails. And that I was trying to decide on unfurled on the top gallant and graduate down to fully furled on the main and fore yard. Of course in the photos the top sail is fully set. I like the photo you attached above as well. Wonder if it would be alright to have the windward clew on the fore sail pulled up as well. To finish this topic I am going to either do it as above in your photo Ian or the previous photos. Thanks everyone for all your help.
  2. So Ian are you saying that I would not be nautically inaccurate if I rigged my Soleli Royal the same way? That was my original idea/plan that started this conversation. 😊.
  3. So guys I am looking at a build by one of the more familiar builders. He has several videos from which these photos were grabbed. From our discussion above, are we saying this sail arrangement is not nautically accurate? It appears not.
  4. Ferrus I could easily turn a new topgallant yard but I would also damage the topgallant mast as well. I really liked your idea but not if I have to do so much damage. Of course I could still display the sails that way and not move the yard if that is the way I want to display the model. As I have said before on other issues I have encountered “who would know, or care?” That is except you guys, and me, now that you are educating me 😊. I look at some of my older models in their case, especially my Revel USS Constitution which was my first when I picked up the hobby again after retiring, and I think if you guys had the opportunity to examine them I have no doubt you would find countless nautical errors. From then until now building this beautiful Soleli Royal right after building the Heller HMS Victory I have learned so much and become addicted to the craft. Each time I learn something new, and why that is so, it is like a new window has just opened. I never gave any thought to what would actually happen if a ship had just the topgallant sails unfurled as you explained Ian. That makes perfect since. Knowing that now and the physics of it is enlightening. So now I have the decision. Do I want it to look “cool” but down deep in my soul know it is nautically WRONG, or do I display the sails correctly, which will also be stunning?
  5. Unfortunately even though I rigged the yards on the fore mast the way they would have been rigged in order to raise and lower them I can’t without doing major damage. To hold the yards in place while I rigged them I drilled matching holes in both the yard and mast I which I placed a metal pin with CA glue. I also used a few drops of CA glue on the parrals to help hold them in place while I rigged them. I would do severe damage to my yards and the mast if I tried to remove them. Until reading you guys newest comments I had no idea the yard was lowered when a sale was furled. Henry I understand since I have the foremast yards as they are I will have to do the same with the main yards if I want to be accurate. I could consider furling the main course, but all the remaining sails will need to be unfurled? Again if I want to be accurate. Oh well. I guess decisions have been made on sails. So are we saying in making my sails there are no reefs in 1668 when the SR was constructed? That will definitely save some time.
  6. Thanks Ferrus. So I understand all the lines stay attached and if the sail is furled the lines are just folded up into the folds of the sail? I thought that had to be the case. Could not see the crew trying to attach rigging lines to a sail after it was unfurled, or while it was being.
  7. I definitely want to furl the course sail. Want to have an open view to the deck. If I were to do the sails as you say Ferrus how would the rigging be done? Which rigging lines, if any, attached to the sail when “flying” are not attached when furled?
  8. Ok my friends I want to get smart before adding my rigged yards to the main and mizzen mast. I am reading what I can find including specific topics here on MSW. I am planning to add a combination of furled, partially unfurled, and fully unfurled sails to my ship. Still trying to decide on unfurled on the top gallant and graduate down to fully furled on the main and fire yard. Or some combination to include all furled maybe. I know the material to use and how to make the unfurled sails and have done my best to make some particularly furled in the past. My questions concern attaching them to the yards and rigging them. As you can tell from my photos the yards are already on the foremast so if your recommendation is to attach them to the yard before mounting to the mast I am going to need to do a work around for those 3 yards but can still do the yards for the main and mizzen off the mast. If better to attach the yards first I will proceed as to he Heller instructions show. I can follow the Heller rigging instructions for the unfurled sails. Not a problem. Have done that several times and know the sequence. But when it comes to the furled sails, are all the same rigging lines still attached but just folded up in the sail or are some disconnected, especially at the clew. If some lines are not attached to a he sail what comes of them.
  9. I am going to do sails but I am thinking furled. Will study the best way to make them and how a furled is rigged. I have one model, the HMS Victory, that I left with out sails. All my others I have used a water/glue solution to make billowed sails that came out really nice. I am thinking for my SR I just want the representation of sails furled on the yards
  10. Gentlemen my pre-sail running rigging on the foremast is complete all the way up through the topgallant yard. I have determined there is a fine line between getting the rigging snug and keeping the stays the rigging ties to or blocks through straight. I have to except a little here and there. Now on to the main mast
  11. Thanks Henry. That is what I thought and sort of did a dry fitting of the rope through the block. I am thinking I could even give it a bit more length. Will check it out when I get back at it today.
  12. Ok Ferrus that is exactly the way I have rigged it. It is difficult to tell from my photos. The only thing I guesstimated is how far below the mast top m1 should be? Basically how long the tye (1051) should be? I brought it down about 3” below the mast top.
  13. That was my confusion/question from the beginning. The Heller instructions (maybe a Hellerism). Do I use a5 or a11 for the hook on the block. The instructions specify a11and a12 for this rigging step.
  14. Ferrus I think we are close to seeing and saying the same thing. 1052 is the number of the rope. The arrow at the end indicates it is heading somewhere. Based on what you are saying and what I am reading I cannot determine if it is eyebolt a12 on the channel or a6 inside on the deck. I think what I am going to do is tie 1052 to eyebolt a12 on the starboard channel. Then on the opposite side of the ship I am going to attach block (h1) to eyebolt a11 on the port channel. Then instead of wrapping the fall around block (h1) I am going to tie it inboard on eyebolt a5. If later I find eyebolt a5 had another purpose I will just add another eyebolt. Baker I had the same thought as well. I will be tying the parral lines on the mast top.
  15. Guys I am striking out on determining the correct belay points for the Runner and Halliard for the fore topmast. I have read through the section in Anderson’s book and studied the rigging points plan with the kit and the old 1970s instructions. From what I can gather the block with hook (h1) attaches to an eyebolt on one side of the ship aft of the fore mast. The other end of line 1052 after passing through block (m1) attaches to an eyebolt directly across the ship on the other side. I am thinking it is points a11 and a12 on the aft ends of the channels. I think I read Anderson’s book to understand the points are to be on the inside of the bulwark. No where on the diagram can I find line #1052. What do you think?
  16. Foreyard with all it’s rigging including the tackles at the deck for the parral falls.
  17. No Henry. In fact I am rigging that as we speak (text). 😊 Looking at your page 6 to see exactly how you attached the hitch to the selvage.
  18. Ian you make it sound less if an “endeavor” than I thought.
  19. Ian actually I am going to try my very first fully wooden ship. I purchased the OcCre Endeavour. Be a while before I open that box. Don’t have the electronics skills for RC , I don’t think😊
  20. End of my shift at the ship yard. Two roll parral rigged. Falls leading down to the deck where I will add tackles next along wage rest of the yard rigging. Ferrus you may also notice foot ropes changed to black. After some research I see you are right.
  21. My two roll parral with falls that will go down to deck tackles
  22. Ferrus I have several reference sources for how the parrals are rigged it is just with the space and the supplies I have two rolls looks better than when I tried 3 rolls. With 3 the bottom roll is up on the lashing and looks crooked. I am still going to rig the falls down to tackles at the deck level. Since I seriously doubt anyone that views my model in its display case will critique if I have two or three rolls of trucks on my fore yard parral I believe I will just live with it. I don’t know that I have ever on any of my numerous builds done the foot ropes in black lines. Interesting. You are probably right to protect them from the weather.
  23. I have determined that as a result where I placed the lashings (Henry and hat is the natutical term) around the mast, and the size beads I am using, I can only fit a two roll parral on the fore mast to hold the fore yard. I will still put an eye at each end and rig as I would have a three roll. I know this is probably not completely correct but will represent the parral. Still needs painting of course.
  24. No Ian. I have not. Where would I find it? Or I can just Google.
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