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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    Pendants and tackles fitted for main and mizzenmast. It is tricky to get the threads to run straight between the blocks of the tackle without crossing. I was eventually able to get all 10 tackles straight and acceptable. I now have to decide what to work on next. Instructions show adding and rigging the two yards on the bowsprit. Where would you guys go next?
  2. Bill97
    Thank you gentlemen. Started switching the mainmast pendants from thimbles to blocks and will rig the tackles today. Then I will need to follow up with the two on the mizzenmast. Will then need to study the instructions to see where I go next.
  3. Bill97
    Thanks Michael.
  4. Bill97
    Ok gentlemen correction made to my screw up yesterday. I took the thimbles off and replaced them with the upper blocks of the tackles. Henry I tried your idea of just lashing the blocks to the thimbles but I just could not get a look I was satisfied with. Would the falls which I now have tied at a deadeye have further coiled on the deck for the crew to access? Also need an opinion. I still have the pendants on the main mast with just thimbles. Would have been appropriate for there to be tackles mounted on the foremast and just thimbles on the main? Should I also change them out or display the different functions of the pendants by leaving them with thimbles only?
  5. Bill97
    I think this diagram in the older version of the Heller instructions was partially the cause of my screwup yesterday. After our discussion I looked back at this diagram I think as following yesterday. It incorrectly shows the pendants stacked on top the shrouds. Subassembly 37D and 37E are the pendants. Then it further appears to show the pendants coming down through the tree and on the outside of the shrouds. The newer instruction version does redefine those lines more correctly.
  6. Bill97
    Well tomorrow is a new day in a he ship yard. Will fix and cleanup all this screw-up! Thanks guys for your guidance. I am truly still learning so much each day, and I honestly appreciate it. This was simply a case of reading to much into the directions. So no pendants on top the shrouds. Now that I reread Anderson’s instructions with my knew knowledge it is clear what he is telling a builder to do.
  7. Bill97
    So Henry I think we are discussing this at the same time. So would you just remove the new pendants I wrongfully added on top the shrouds today? I could remove them, edge up the shrouds on the mast, and slip these tackles under the shrouds. Not sure which I like the best, the thimbles, or the tackles?
  8. Bill97
    Well Michael I think I am trying to do double work 🤔. Reading Anderson’s book page 92 he says the “ first thing to do is to fit the tackle pendants.” I knew them from building my Victory with thimbles. So I made them. Step 1. Then I hung the shrouds. Later in his book, page 102 he says “When the shrouds and stays have been set up it is time to fit the tackles.” The Heller instructions show two tackles and two empty pendants. I think I maybe foolishly viewed that as being a total of 4 tackle pendants per side of the mast. Two with thimbles and two with tackles attached with hooks to the channel. I am guessing that is not the case. Not sure I will remove them or not. I will have to think about what to do at the main mast. Marc and Henry it was a quick fix but now according to Michael I doubled up some work. Oh well no real harm doing extra work.
  9. Bill97
    You know guys I wondered that same thing and actually rigged them on the inside of the shrouds first but then after studying the instructions drawings thought maybe they belonged on the outside. I read through the section in Anderson’s book but could not come up with an answer. I was honking of asking you guys but thought you might say “well you dumb **** of course they go on the outside”. This will be an easy fix. Just loosen the rope, slip hook out of eyebolt and move block around the back. Twenty minutes tops. Should have checked in earlier cause now I have to move all four 😊. I attached a photo of one initially on the inside
  10. Bill97
    Completed the first burton tackle on the foremast. Used the thread size I used for the shrouds. Served the center section where it wraps around the mast. Used a 3 sheave block for the top of the tackle and a 2 sheave block with a hook for the bottom. Rigged the two blocks with running rigging (tan) thread and tied the fall at the nearest deadeye.
  11. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. In a zoomed in look at Heller’s diagram it looks as if it is tied off right above the upper block maybe? Is that what you see? Would you do it that way or your suggestion if above the nearest deadeye?
  12. Bill97
    Alright gentlemen I am now moving to the mast pendants. Numbers 96 and 97 for both the fore and mast. I am reading through pages 102-105 in Anderson’s book where he discusses these mast pendants. I can see in the Heller instructions that they are similar to a shroud pair. What I have yet to determine is where the hook on the end of lower block goes. There are a couple eyebolts in the channels behind the shroud deadeyes. Do they hook into them? What do I do with the guys? The photo from the old Heller instructions appears to show the hook placed in a he channel eyebolt.
  13. Bill97
    Looking great. Making me very anxious to open my kit.
  14. Bill97
    All of the lower ratlines tied to include the spritsail topmast. Now to add all the blocks that are to be tied to the shrouds for future rigging.
  15. Bill97
    Allan you are questioning the line used for the spritsail topmast stay? Should it be tan running rigging thread or black standing rigging? Excellent question. Since all of the stays throughout the ship rigging are standing rigging, I think, I would lean toward this stay being considered standing as well, therefore black or “tarred” thread. And for a simple reason that is the color thread the instructions say to use. Again though, excellent question. Marc what say you?
  16. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. That method does work pretty good especially if you add a piece of Evergreen on the inside to increase thickness. The out of box thickness allows very little space to drill into the edge for the wires. In retrospect it may have been possible to sandwich two wires between the halves when I glued them. Not sure. It will be a slow steady process with drilled holes per hatch, but like the ratlines, it will be a labor if love! I like the way the wire allows bending as a hinge would do. Thanks Ferrus. You really need to give ratlines a try on your next build. I got so frustrated with that stay I was so glad to be finished with it. A real balancing act to prevent much bend in the forestay even after adding the bobstay.
  17. Bill97
    Took a brief break from tying ratlines to tinker with something else. Will get back to the ratlines quickly. For a change of pace I decided to experiment with one of my cannon hatch covers. I previously added additional stock material to the inside to give a thicker profile that matched the hatch. I used Baker’s idea if adding two wires on the top hinge edge and drilled two matching holes in the top inside edge of the hatch. With a touch of CA I was able to insert the wires into the top of the hatch. These wires actually serve as a movable hinge. Before gluing in place I attached to eyebolts to the exterior of the hatch for the ropes. I have the hatch more open than would be the case but I want to show the flur-de-lies appliqué on the hatch cover inside.
  18. Bill97
    Couple days since an update. Finished the lower shrouds on the foremast. Lower shrouds on the mizzenmast mast up next. Spent a day or so and a fair amount of non-church words 😬 redoing the shrouds on the spritsail topmast. The initial shrouds were of a thread size that I thought appeared too small once I finished. I decided to remove the shrouds and redo them with a larger thread. Working in reverse proved to be a challenge and detrimental to several of the tiny 2.5mm deadeyes. Ultimately I got it accomplished. Now to add the ratlines to these shrouds as well.
  19. Bill97
    Looking great Ferrus!
  20. Bill97
    I believe I am going to remake the spritsail topmast shrouds. I am thinking the shrouds are of a to small diameter thread. I used a 2.5mm black thread and as a result they are not very visible. Not sure even when I add the ratlines if they will stand out. I think I will move up to a 3.5mm. This will take some work to undo these smaller shrouds, especially at the deadeyes.
  21. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. It was your suggestion that had not thought of.
  22. Bill97
    Henry I did the Bobstay following Anderson’s guide on page 91, Fig 78, French Bobstay about 1700. As we have said it may or may be accurate but it is right on the edge. I brought the fall of the stay down to an eyebolt and blocks I attached to stem. This does provide a bit more tension on the spritsail stay but you still need to reach a happy medium on the tension a slight bend in the forestay.
  23. Bill97
    Henry the bobstay idea is interesting. I am reading the pages in Anderson’s book about the bobstay. There is a possibility that the Soleli Royal incorporated one in its rigging. If not authentic it is very close to a time period when it would have been. If adding it will help to counter the upward pull on the forestay I am going to include one. Before I installed my bowsprit I reinforced it with a wood dial rod so it does not currently have much flex. I guess a simple test will be to apply downward pressure on the bowsprit which should then tighten the forestay. From there I will see if it tightens the spritsail stay. If it does I will add a bobstay. If not I will wait to see what you do 😊. Bill
  24. Bill97
    So Henry you say just leave it alone as is and move on? I liked your idea of filing out the edge of the block. Will probably use that idea anywhere I don’t have tension on the block to eliminate the parabola shape. Will do some research on the bobstay to see if that might help as well.
  25. Bill97
    Finished the port side lower foremast ratlines and set up my process to do the starboard side. Also continued fiddling with the spritsail topmast backstay. Henry I used your idea of slightly rounding the sharp edge of the hole where it enters groove on the block to eliminate some of the parabola shape of the lines. I have also rerigged the backstay with 3 different weight thread. I am still getting a slight bit of parabola shape if I don’t snug the backstay so much that they forestay starts to bend. Have one more weight and type of black line to try tomorrow. Is a slight somewhat noticeable bend in the forestay as you see in the photo acceptable, or do I keep experimenting? Black sewing thread does OK but it is way to thin.

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