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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    Gentlemen as I read through our current discussion and look closely at my ship, especially what I have already completed, I can see as you have pointed out errors in Heller’s design. Unfortunately some of these errors are in items it is to late to correct. The error now being the cross trees and trestle trees which are now permanently locked in position under the shrouds. My only hope is to do the best I can to make the model visually interesting and attractive despite the lack of accuracy. Ian you are absolutely correct the topgallant mast can not be struck with the trestle tree designed as it is. Marc I measured the width of the cross trees. They will have the topgallant shroud spread the same width as the topmast shroud spread. You mentioned shortening the cross trees. I don’t understand how this would change the spread. Henry have you reached this point? If so what did you do and how does it look?
  2. Bill97
    Marc as usual you have given me a lot to think about. I had not thought about keeping the shroud spread appearance the same all the way up the mast. Will have to mock it up as you said to get a good feel. Thanks to you and Ian for your help today.
  3. Bill97
    OK I know I am spending way to much time on MSW tonight discussing my ship with you guys! 😊 Ian I picked up my Anderson book to read through Chap 3 again after you referenced it above. I stumbled on something that concerns me. I hope you or Marc can shed some light on. On page 50 of Anderson’s book he explains the position of the topmast cross tree and trestle tree. He shows the third cross tree placed forward of the mast top. The Heller instructions, and the way I have already done it, is to have the third cross tree aft of the mast top. 😳
  4. Bill97
    Marc and Ian just to confirm this as well. The 3 5/8” is measured from the cross tree on the topmast not from cap that is about an inch higher?
  5. Bill97
    Oh OK Marc. You think a topgallant that tall would look the best? Basically cutting two inches off the height? Go from 51/2” to 3 5/8”? I will be making my own sails down the road a ways so this change will not cause a problem compared to if I had planned to use the kit supplied plastic sails.
  6. Bill97
    Thanks Marc and Ian. Tell me if I am right here. The main topmast is 9 inches tall. Ian based on your advice if I go with 0.5 of the topmast the topgallant mast would be 4.5 inches. I am guessing that is only to the topgallant mast top not the flag pole section? The area I have indicated in the first picture. The second picture is what the new length would look like.
  7. Bill97
    So Marc the mast sections are all proportional to the section below?
  8. Bill97
    “The mast sections which are really overlong are the t’gallants. Those I will make from scratch and shorten.” Marc you made this comment when we were discussing the mast section lengths. I am soon going to make my own topgallant masts. Before I start I am curious how much you will shorten the ones you make? I assume the section you shorten will be the bottom section below the tops?
  9. Bill97
    Finished the ratlines on the fore topmast. Added the backstays to the foremast and the fore topmast stay. A may redo the crows feet, maybe not. I got just a bit of slack in it when I added the stay. But even with the bobstay I added any more pull on the crows feet bows the stay at the bottom. Will probably just live with it. I am satisfied with my chains at the channel. Still have the topgallant stay to add later.
  10. Bill97
    Marc I got them through ModelExpo. I buy most of my rigging stuff from them. You can sometimes find them on Amazon from ModelExpo. Here is the stock photo.
  11. Bill97
    Marc the lower on the fore and main are 5mm, 4mm on the lower mizzen. Then 3.5mm on the fore and main tops and 2.5mm on the mizzenmast top and the spritsail topmast. I am thinking of using 4mm for the fore and main backstays.
  12. Bill97
    Thanks Ian.
  13. Bill97
    WANTED: Apprentice shipyard worker to tie ratlines the remainder of your life for minimum wage! 😀 All the topmast shrouds hung and rigged to the deadeyes. Ratlines done on the port side of the foremast. All the rest still to be done. Plan to alternate between tying ratlines and doing other tasks on the ship so as to avoid losing my mind.
  14. Bill97
    Welcome John to the Heller Soleli Royal build family. Enjoying very much reading through your build. Your analysis, experimentation, and interpretations, are fun to witness. Beautiful job so far. Will be following along. I agree with you on the incredible sources and help on MSW like Marc and Henry. They have helped me immensely. I have been working on my SR and posting my build since last October. The moderators still have not included it in the index. Here is my link if you would like a view of one more 😊. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33097-le-soleil-royal-by-bill97-heller-1100/page/19/
  15. Bill97
    Absolutely beautiful Marc. Hopefully you will become just as comfortable at your new work station and your inspiration will continue to flow through it.
  16. Bill97
    Hello Robert. I have from time to time read through your Golden Hinde build. I have this exact Airfix kit in my stash. Got it as a gift a few years ago. During the time I have worked on my two larger ships the Heller HMS Victory and Le Soleil Royal I often think about taking a short break and tinkering with the Golden Hinde on another work bench. It is a beautiful ship and you have done an excellent job with the Airfix kit, especially your sails. I will definitely refer to your build when I build mine.
  17. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. Now that you mention it I do remember you discussing making new mast tops. Since I am this far along I will certainly give special look at the top gallant masts.
  18. Bill97
    Thanks Veszett. I use Vallejo acrylic paints. First I roughed the “wood” with course sand paper to get a more weathered look. Then I gave them a base coat of Vellajo Israeli Sand surface primer 76.614. After the surface primer thoroughly dried I sprayed them with Vallejo 71.131 concrete color. After that dried I dry brushed with Vallejo IDF Sand Grey 71.141 to pick up the grain. I then went over them with a thinned black wash and followed up with some random light streaks of the IDF Sand Grey again.
  19. Bill97
    Yes they are Ian and as a result it makes the shrouds seem narrow. Would not be surprised if Marc, or someone else, informs me for accuracy they should have been cut shorter. I hope not because it is to late now to change them.
  20. Bill97
    Took a much needed break from tying ratlines to make my anchors today. I wanted the rings to hang naturally so I drilled out the holes and made new steel rings that go all the way through and hang naturally.
  21. Bill97
    Doing some work on the fore and main mast topmast shrouds. The shrouds for the foremast are hung and rigged. I am about to start the ratlines. The topmast shrouds for the mainmast are hung and numbered but still need to be rigged to the deadeyes.
  22. Bill97
    Beautiful job Ferrus. You should be proud. Will watch for your future builds
  23. Bill97
    Thanks Henry my friend. I am planning to make most, if not all, my spars by turning wood dials instead of the plastic that comes in the kit.
  24. Bill97
    Thanks Henry my friend. I am gathering that the spars on this model are in fact held in place on the mast just as they would have been on the actual ship. No molded connectors as one might get on a lesser model. Similarly as on my HMS Victory I was able to drill through the spar and into the mast where I could insert an invisible pin to help hold in place.
  25. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I guess when parrels are used I will just use them to rotate (brace) the yard. And where the ropes go up over the piece at the top of the mast (in picture) and tie to the yard there is no need to for adjustments there? Ropes will just go up and over and lash to the yard with a small twist to SB side?

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