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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    All of my newly made wooden yards complete with cleats in the center were appropriate and on the ends of all of them. Primed and ready for the paint booth!
  2. Bill97
    Kirill4 I can’t make out the lettering in the diagram you provided a few comments back. The letters reference drawings a-f but I can only guess which letter goes with each drawing. Are the top two drawings showing one fall from the parral the fore and main topsail yards? Below those two in the diagram with two falls are the fore and main yards? The left is obviously the mizzen and the spritsail sling is to the right?
  3. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I asked about when you added your cleat because in your photo the rigging was on the yard prior to the cleat. You must have been just doing trial fitting of the rigging. figured I better learn the nautical terminology if I planned to keep asking you guys for help. As you see in my photo I have put bow cleats on the main and fore yard as well as the both topsail yards. I also understand Anderson saying on page 57 that the cleats appear in both fashions, bow and open. I went with bow because they are stronger at the little bridge. I figured knowing my clumsy ways I would break off the little tabs if I had a space in the middle. I will check my plans for the eyebolts you referenced. Marc I rigged the parrels on my HMS Victory. Ian would not have allowed me to do otherwise. I do remember it being tricky to learn how to make them at the same time as rigging them. BTW, I know the HMS Victory was British and the Soleli Royal was French but sometimes when I am confused and can’t find an answer in Anderson’s book I will look for reference in Longridge’s book. Surely some of the basic rigging techniques were somewhat similar or at least close enough for my needs.
  4. Bill97
    A little small wood working today adding cleats to the center of my fore yard, fore topsail yard, main yard, and main topsail yard. Still have not decided if I am going to add a center cleat to the spritsail. Anderson is noncommittal about the spritsail having a cleat. Simply lists certain ships that had one and ships that didn’t. Will add tiny triangular cleats to all the yardarms.
  5. Bill97
    Henry I continue to have your build bookmarked for quick reference. I find your rigging skill’s fascinating. Now that I have made all my yards I am researching the cleats. As you probably know Heller does not provide them. Either the one for the center of the yard nor the ends of the yard arm. Anderson is not definitive on when they came into use but it seems the SR construction was in the time frame. So like you I intend to add them to the appropriate yards. Here is where I again referred to your build. It appears in your photo that you added the cleat after painting and rigging the yard instead of before. Am I correct? Which yards did you add the cleats too. Looking a little further into your build, I think your parrals are beautiful. Did you need to add an eyebolt at the deck and form a two block tackle to except the falls from the parrals?
  6. Bill97
    All the yards turned out of wood dials! Fingers crossed my length calculations are correct.
  7. Bill97
    All right my math major friends. Based n Marc’s assistance in establishing a baseline length for the fore yards, and Anderson’s yard length summary on page 54, these are the measurements for the yards I will be marking. At your leisure please review and give me either a passing grade or a failing grade in this class! 😊 Once I turn them I can always make them shorter but not longer. Then I get into the whole realm of adding cleats to the ends and center of the yards. Heller obviously did not.
  8. Bill97
    My calculations for the mainmast yards: Stock yard (course) 13.125” Topmast yard: 13.125”x .672 = 8.82” (8 7/8”) Topgallant yard: 8.82” x .455 = 4.01” (4”) I will turn my yards for the main mast to 13 1/4”, 8 7/8”, and 4” Does this seem correct?
  9. Bill97
    Spritsail yards and yards for the foremast turned to the lengths in the comment above. Electric drill, sand paper, and calipers does an excellent job. A little touch of paint on each set helps me not get them mixed up.
  10. Bill97
    The stock yard dimensions are: Fore course yard: 12.125”. Same length as used for the yard I made. Fore topmast yard: 8”. I need to make mine 8.25” Fore topgallant yard: 4.75”. Definitely too long. I need to make mine 3.75”
  11. Bill97
    No Marc you’re correct in the first sentence. I am only talking about the yards I have made, and may have to remake for the foremast. All the figures I have quoted are referring to only the foremast and what the length of the yards for the foremast will be. Once I get this math formula right I will then apply it to the main mast yards later. The Heller plastic bottom yard for the foremast (I think you are referring to that as the course yard?) is 12.125” long. So from that length as the baseline I am using your formula to determine the length of the fore topmast yard and the fore topgallant yard. I only mentioned that I now think I made my fore topmast yard to short and have to redo it. Fore course yard: 12.125” Fore Topmast yard: 12.125” x .672 = 8.25” Fore Topgallant yard: 8 1/4” x .451 = 3.75” I hope this makes since. I apologize for my being confusing.
  12. Bill97
    Oh I forgot. Thank you math professor Dr Marc!
  13. Bill97
    Ok Marc I think I got it. I am also turning my own yards instead of using the Heller plastic yards. In the photo I show the foreyard and the topmast yard all ready turned for the foremast. I made them to match the size of the Heller yards. The topmast yard is 7 3/4”. So according to what you have said the topgallant yard should be .451 of 7 3/4” or roughly 3 3/8”? Further my fore course yard is 12.125”. So if I go by what you said above my fore topmast yard should be .672 of 12.125” or roughly 8 1/4”? The one I made is too short at 7 3/4”. So if I remake it at 8 1/4” my topgallant yard will be about 3 3/4”?
  14. Bill97
    Marc I sent the last comment with photo before you sent your comment. So do I understand you to say just make my topgallant yards proportional to the topmast yard on each mast? And just use the length of the other Heller yards to make the other two for each mast?
  15. Bill97
    So I would be correct working with about 15 inches for length of main mast?
  16. Bill97
    I am reading through Anderson’s book Chap IV. Yards and Stunsail Booms. He discusses measuring all the yards in reference to the main yard. He further says the main yard should be a fraction of the main mast length. Is the mainmast length the measure from the deck surface or deep into the ship to the keel?
  17. Bill97
    Yards for the spritsail and the foremast turned. You guys said the topgallant yard is to long so I need to determine the correct length and turn it b
  18. Bill97
    Thanks Henry and Ferrus. Yeah Ferrus that is in the same category as the several thousand ratline knots I tied. You except it as a part of the journey. No doubt Pointillism artist like Seurat and Van Gogh spent many hours making countless little dots of color that when combined together on his canvas resulted in a beautiful masterpiece. Or so I keep telling my self. 😊
  19. Bill97
    Love your new work station Marc. I am sure your artistic genius will continue to grow as you set in that beautiful chair. (Speaking as a fine furniture woodworker).
  20. Bill97
    Gentlemen I have read through the instructions several times putting little check marks by STANDING rigging lines that are shown. Looking at the instructions and my other ships I am of the conclusion I have completed the standing rigging. I am going to turn all of my yards from wooden dials. Once I have them made, which should take some time, I will switch to tan thread and begin the running rigging. I still need to add a handful of blocks here and there on the standing rigging but other than that I am not sure. Looking at my photos do you see any standing rigging lines I have missed?
  21. Bill97
    Several stays and backstays put in today. I enjoy how the stays start filling in the whole visual of the ship. There is one Hellerism I ran into that required some study. The second down main topgallant stay is numbered line 1008. The Table of Rigging says line 1008 goes from the main topgallant mast (308) to a block on the foremast cross tree (f6) then to part (274). Part 274 is the mainmast lower cross tree. The instructions should say part 273 which is the foremast lower cross tree. Will obviously need to trim line ends once I know they are ready to tie permanently.
  22. Bill97
    Modified (shortened) topgallant masts installed. Followed up with topgallant shrouds and ratlines. I think I have tied the last ratline! Wow there is a bunch of knots. It does make all the difference. I like them. Jury may still be out on effect of shortening the topgallant masts and reducing the size of the cross tree/trestle tree. I cut off a healthy 1/8” all the way around them. For reference I used 3.5mm deadeyes.
  23. Bill97
    I use them on the topgallant shrouds. On my 1/100 scale Soleil Royal the staples are too small for the deadeye spacing at lower levels. The staples hold the larger deadeyes to close together. So it really depends on the scale of your ship and where the spacing looks the best. Would be great if various size staples were available. 😊
  24. Bill97
    Kind of a fun trick I am using that makes spacing deadeye a little easier. For my topgallant shrouds on the fore and main mast I am using ordinary office staples. I just click my stapler a bunch of times and I have perfectly uniform length spacers. The bend at the ends of the staple fit right into the holes in the deadeyes. A pair in each one to keep the holes lined up properly, a touch of glue on the knot at the top, and I am good to go. After the glue drys I will remove the staples and add some additional wrapping above the deadeye. The two pictures show the before and after.
  25. Bill97
    Sure Ferrus I am always interested in reading about new techniques. Still deciding which way I am going to go.

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