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Bill97

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Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Bill97
    Thanks Ian.
  2. Bill97
    WANTED: Apprentice shipyard worker to tie ratlines the remainder of your life for minimum wage! 😀 All the topmast shrouds hung and rigged to the deadeyes. Ratlines done on the port side of the foremast. All the rest still to be done. Plan to alternate between tying ratlines and doing other tasks on the ship so as to avoid losing my mind.
  3. Bill97
    Welcome John to the Heller Soleli Royal build family. Enjoying very much reading through your build. Your analysis, experimentation, and interpretations, are fun to witness. Beautiful job so far. Will be following along. I agree with you on the incredible sources and help on MSW like Marc and Henry. They have helped me immensely. I have been working on my SR and posting my build since last October. The moderators still have not included it in the index. Here is my link if you would like a view of one more 😊. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33097-le-soleil-royal-by-bill97-heller-1100/page/19/
  4. Bill97
    Absolutely beautiful Marc. Hopefully you will become just as comfortable at your new work station and your inspiration will continue to flow through it.
  5. Bill97
    Hello Robert. I have from time to time read through your Golden Hinde build. I have this exact Airfix kit in my stash. Got it as a gift a few years ago. During the time I have worked on my two larger ships the Heller HMS Victory and Le Soleil Royal I often think about taking a short break and tinkering with the Golden Hinde on another work bench. It is a beautiful ship and you have done an excellent job with the Airfix kit, especially your sails. I will definitely refer to your build when I build mine.
  6. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. Now that you mention it I do remember you discussing making new mast tops. Since I am this far along I will certainly give special look at the top gallant masts.
  7. Bill97
    Thanks Veszett. I use Vallejo acrylic paints. First I roughed the “wood” with course sand paper to get a more weathered look. Then I gave them a base coat of Vellajo Israeli Sand surface primer 76.614. After the surface primer thoroughly dried I sprayed them with Vallejo 71.131 concrete color. After that dried I dry brushed with Vallejo IDF Sand Grey 71.141 to pick up the grain. I then went over them with a thinned black wash and followed up with some random light streaks of the IDF Sand Grey again.
  8. Bill97
    Yes they are Ian and as a result it makes the shrouds seem narrow. Would not be surprised if Marc, or someone else, informs me for accuracy they should have been cut shorter. I hope not because it is to late now to change them.
  9. Bill97
    Took a much needed break from tying ratlines to make my anchors today. I wanted the rings to hang naturally so I drilled out the holes and made new steel rings that go all the way through and hang naturally.
  10. Bill97
    Doing some work on the fore and main mast topmast shrouds. The shrouds for the foremast are hung and rigged. I am about to start the ratlines. The topmast shrouds for the mainmast are hung and numbered but still need to be rigged to the deadeyes.
  11. Bill97
    Beautiful job Ferrus. You should be proud. Will watch for your future builds
  12. Bill97
    Thanks Henry my friend. I am planning to make most, if not all, my spars by turning wood dials instead of the plastic that comes in the kit.
  13. Bill97
    Thanks Henry my friend. I am gathering that the spars on this model are in fact held in place on the mast just as they would have been on the actual ship. No molded connectors as one might get on a lesser model. Similarly as on my HMS Victory I was able to drill through the spar and into the mast where I could insert an invisible pin to help hold in place.
  14. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I guess when parrels are used I will just use them to rotate (brace) the yard. And where the ropes go up over the piece at the top of the mast (in picture) and tie to the yard there is no need to for adjustments there? Ropes will just go up and over and lash to the yard with a small twist to SB side?
  15. Bill97
    Thanks guys. Henry before I cross the yards I want to be prepared. Looking at the Heller instructions I am considering (no appropriate nautical terms here 😊) turning all the yards on the masts as they would have been downwind wing aft port. Anything additional I need to be aware of? Am I just asking for trouble?
  16. Bill97
    All three mast tops rigged and installed to include shrouds, ratlines, crows feet, blocks, etc. Now on to somewhere I am not sure yet. Henry back in post 984 where I was discussing where to go next to recommended “You could consider crossing the main yard.” Could you please explain more what you meant?
  17. Bill97
    What in the world is the creature I saw on my work table 😳. Oh wait now I recognize it. It is the fully rigged main mast top! What an adventure. I went with tying the futtock shrouds to the deadeye strops instead of a hook. Same on the fore mast top. Crows feet ready as well to be lashed to the mainstay and adjusted.
  18. Bill97
    Marc your ship will have to be in a museum or on display somewhere when finished. No way it should set on a shelf in your home for only a few to see. It is an absolute work of art. Incredible job my friend.
  19. Bill97
    And now with the futtock shroud ratlines completed except for trimming when touch of glue dries.
  20. Bill97
    Bunch of work at the fore mast since last post. Rigged the mast top, installed it, and the top mast. On the mast top I made I made and blacked wire strops for the lower deadeyes. Also attached the crowfeet to the top and to the forestay using Anderson’s guidance to make a euphroe. Added a futtock stave to both sets of lower shrouds. Added catherpins to the shrouds and am working on the futtock shrouds and eventual ratlines.
  21. Bill97
    Henry that is exactly everything I did on my HMS Victory.
  22. Bill97
    Ok gentlemen a little early Sunday morning discussion. I am reading and comparing my Heller instructions and Anderson’s book on three topics. One is the deadeye/futtock shroud rigging. The Heller instructions describe the process of simply lashing a thread around an appropriate size deadeye, pass the thread through the hole in the top, and then tie the end of the futtock shroud to the lower shrouds. Simple as that. Anderson on page 110 discusses at the end of the 16th century the deadeyes were given a metal “puttock-plate” strop that was passed down through the top. A rope was then hooked or tied to the plate and then tied to the lower shrouds. This was the process for my HMS Victory. Obviously simply tying a thread around the deadeye and passing through the top would be much easier than making metal strops, but may or may not be accurate. Next is the use, or not, of a futtock staff? The Heller instructions do not indicate the need to add one. The French Royal Louis had futtock staffs in 1692, according to Anderson. Last curiosity is the use of catharpins? Again Heller does not address this. Anderson on page 114 has one sentence reference French ships. “In French ships, too, it seems to have been usual to dispense with catharpins up to 1700 at least.” Three curiosity I need to be clear about before moving into this step. Your thoughts?
  23. Bill97
    Nice art work and history Ferrus?
  24. Bill97
    Was looking over my future direction and noticed I had yet to install the mizzenmast stay 😳! Of course had to do that next. As with the fore and main masts I built a stay with a mouse at the top and a block at the bottom. I also made a collar to go around the base of the main mast and added a block to it. Both blocks on the mizzenmast mast stay are double sheave. A lashed them together with a lanyard matching the other two stays.
  25. Bill97
    Henry your suggestion is right out of the old Heller instructions. It shows moving on next to the tops. The newer addition moves toward the sprityards.

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