Jump to content

Bill97

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,555

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Bill97
    I use them on the topgallant shrouds. On my 1/100 scale Soleil Royal the staples are too small for the deadeye spacing at lower levels. The staples hold the larger deadeyes to close together. So it really depends on the scale of your ship and where the spacing looks the best. Would be great if various size staples were available. 😊
  2. Bill97
    Kind of a fun trick I am using that makes spacing deadeye a little easier. For my topgallant shrouds on the fore and main mast I am using ordinary office staples. I just click my stapler a bunch of times and I have perfectly uniform length spacers. The bend at the ends of the staple fit right into the holes in the deadeyes. A pair in each one to keep the holes lined up properly, a touch of glue on the knot at the top, and I am good to go. After the glue drys I will remove the staples and add some additional wrapping above the deadeye. The two pictures show the before and after.
  3. Bill97
    Sure Ferrus I am always interested in reading about new techniques. Still deciding which way I am going to go.
  4. Bill97
    Thank you Dr Ian. 😊 I got it.
  5. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. Would parrels have been used on the lower yard? On my HMS Victory I used them on the top yard and topgallant yard but I don’t think I did on the lower yard. I remember Longridge directing a different rigging method for the lower yards.
  6. Bill97
    Thanks Ferrus
  7. Bill97
    As I am looking ahead I am trying to decide if I should turn my own wood dial rods to make the yards or just encase a wood rod inside the Heller plastic halves to strengthen it. I understand from you guys that the topgallant yards are too long so I will be making new ones shorter. I think the easier route would be to just add wood to the inside of the halves, but am up to the challenge to just make the new yards.
  8. Bill97
    Thank you Ian. So I think I will just leave them perpendicular and don’t bother with bracing.
  9. Bill97
    Henry back a page or two around comment 1000 you gave me some advice on bracing the yards I believe you called it if I wanted to turn them a bit on the mast. You said that the yards will have parrals to hold them to the mast. The Heller instructions do not show, unless I am missing it, the installation of any type attachment apparatus for the yards. Is this another Hellerism? I planned to make and use parrals. Was surprised not to see anything suggested for attachment. On that same subject especially referring the yards being braced. I held the the bottom yard (nautical term) up to the mast where I planned ti secure it. If I brace it even a small amount it rubs up against the lower shrouds. Would this be correct?
  10. Bill97
    Ian the yards and running rigging are where the final exam will be administered to see if I can recall everything Dr Ian Longridge taught me during my Victory build 😊.
  11. Bill97
    Ladies and gentlemen please take a moment to recognize this historic moment in time!! Today, the twenty-first day of September in the year 2023, I did in fact reach the summit or the highest point of my Heller Le Soleil Royal. This is truly an auspicious occasion. Proud to say looking at the ship from the stern I see all three mast, and all 3 sections of each, line up behind one another! I did aggressively trim back the cross trees and trestle trees of the fore and main mast as well as remaking all 3 topgallant masts with wood dial rods. The very fragile trestle tree on the mizzenmast did suffer some damage and I will need to repair it before I can add the topgallant shrouds.
  12. Bill97
    New fore and main topgallants. I kept all the plastic joint pieces, even the silly cylinder pieces. Drilled everything out and replaced with dial rods I turned to fit. Based on our discussion I made the foremast 4” and the main 4 1/2”. Surprisingly after it is too late to do anything about it I found both the fore and main topmasts were the exact same length if 9”. The bottom section of the mast is where some big difference is and now another 1/2” on the topgallant.
  13. Bill97
    While I was debating with myself as to the height of my topgallant masts I worked on installing the four anchors.
  14. Bill97
    My thought as well Marc.
  15. Bill97
    Ian looking at the card cutouts I did to represent the shroud spread which of the three topgallant heights look the best regardless of the area. I want to build my ship with a combination of both authenticity and visual appeal.
  16. Bill97
    Marc see if this helps. I took card stock and cut out the shape of the shroud spread for the fore and main topgallant. All three have 1/8” cut off the cross trees. Photo 1 is with the topgallant unaltered from the kit size. Photo 2 is the topgallant at .5 of the top mast. Photo 3 is the topgallant at .4 of the top mast.
  17. Bill97
    Will try to get such a shot.
  18. Bill97
    Ok thoughts, opinions, recommendations. Here is a mock up of the main topgallant mast height and the corresponding shroud spread. Also I am looking at an aggressive cut of 5mm off each side of the cross trees and the aft side of the trestle tree. That will be the same as the distance between the cross trees. Pictures 1 and 2 are using a 3 5/8” topgallant Pictures 3 and 4 are using a 4 1/2” topgallant Pictures 5 and 6 are the height of the Heller included topgallant of 5 1/4”. Thoughts and opinions. Do any of these seem satisfactory or go back to drawing board?
  19. Bill97
    Now on to working with these topgallant masts and trestle trees. 🤔
  20. Bill97
    With the completion of the mizzenmast topmast stay and backstays I have completed the standing rigging up through the top masts. Interesting the at the mizzenmast topmast stays are a pair of crows feet that tie to the lower shrouds of the mainmast. Starting to catch up to my Heller HMS Victory cased below it.
  21. Bill97
    Henry that is our favorite part of Scotland. There is a little town just a bit north of Inverness called Dornock that we have visited. Your trip sounds fantastic. Happy Anniversary. How many years?
  22. Bill97
    Henry welcome back from your Scotland trip. I really enjoy visiting Scotland. Where did you visit Thanks for your reply. Looks like I am going to be trying my best to make a silk purse out of this pig’s ear already mounted on my mast. Of course I will also need to glance forward to the foremast which has its trestle tree already mounted and locked down as well. Or maybe my SR was reincarnated in the 1800’s 😊
  23. Bill97
    I am definitely going to reshape the cross tree as close to the appropriate size as I can manage. Not sure exactly what I will do but that is my plan.
  24. Bill97
    Oh Ok. That makes since. Simple triangle geometry. I am working on the main topmast stay and back stays right now. Looking at the cross tree and the mast top below I can see the cross tree/trestle tree is definitely too big. Would you shorten the aft end of the trestles a bit to make it look smaller? You definitely made the right decision making your own to proper scale. I am going to finish all the standing rigging for the topmasts and then give a good study to how make the topgallants look right. By the at I have finished all the ratlines for the topmast shrouds.
  25. Bill97
    Gentlemen as I read through our current discussion and look closely at my ship, especially what I have already completed, I can see as you have pointed out errors in Heller’s design. Unfortunately some of these errors are in items it is to late to correct. The error now being the cross trees and trestle trees which are now permanently locked in position under the shrouds. My only hope is to do the best I can to make the model visually interesting and attractive despite the lack of accuracy. Ian you are absolutely correct the topgallant mast can not be struck with the trestle tree designed as it is. Marc I measured the width of the cross trees. They will have the topgallant shroud spread the same width as the topmast shroud spread. You mentioned shortening the cross trees. I don’t understand how this would change the spread. Henry have you reached this point? If so what did you do and how does it look?

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...