Jump to content
HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! ×
2025 NRG PHOTOGRAPHIC SHIP MODEL CONTEST WINNERS ANNOUNCED ×
Ship Modeler's Handbook - Back in Stock ×

Bill97

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,701

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Bill97

  1. Bill97
    I am going to do sails but I am thinking furled. Will study the best way to make them and how a furled is rigged. I have one model, the HMS Victory, that I left with out sails. All my others I have used a water/glue solution to make billowed sails that came out really nice. I am thinking for my SR I just want the representation of sails furled on the yards
  2. Bill97
    Gentlemen my pre-sail running rigging on the foremast is complete all the way up through the topgallant yard. I have determined there is a fine line between getting the rigging snug and keeping the stays the rigging ties to or blocks through straight. I have to except a little here and there. Now on to the main mast
  3. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. That is what I thought and sort of did a dry fitting of the rope through the block. I am thinking I could even give it a bit more length. Will check it out when I get back at it today.
  4. Bill97
    Thanks Ferrus.
  5. Bill97
    Ok Ferrus that is exactly the way I have rigged it. It is difficult to tell from my photos. The only thing I guesstimated is how far below the mast top m1 should be? Basically how long the tye (1051) should be? I brought it down about 3” below the mast top.
  6. Bill97
    That was my confusion/question from the beginning. The Heller instructions (maybe a Hellerism). Do I use a5 or a11 for the hook on the block. The instructions specify a11and a12 for this rigging step.
  7. Bill97
    Ferrus I think we are close to seeing and saying the same thing. 1052 is the number of the rope. The arrow at the end indicates it is heading somewhere. Based on what you are saying and what I am reading I cannot determine if it is eyebolt a12 on the channel or a6 inside on the deck. I think what I am going to do is tie 1052 to eyebolt a12 on the starboard channel. Then on the opposite side of the ship I am going to attach block (h1) to eyebolt a11 on the port channel. Then instead of wrapping the fall around block (h1) I am going to tie it inboard on eyebolt a5. If later I find eyebolt a5 had another purpose I will just add another eyebolt. Baker I had the same thought as well. I will be tying the parral lines on the mast top.
  8. Bill97
    Guys I am striking out on determining the correct belay points for the Runner and Halliard for the fore topmast. I have read through the section in Anderson’s book and studied the rigging points plan with the kit and the old 1970s instructions. From what I can gather the block with hook (h1) attaches to an eyebolt on one side of the ship aft of the fore mast. The other end of line 1052 after passing through block (m1) attaches to an eyebolt directly across the ship on the other side. I am thinking it is points a11 and a12 on the aft ends of the channels. I think I read Anderson’s book to understand the points are to be on the inside of the bulwark. No where on the diagram can I find line #1052. What do you think?
  9. Bill97
    Foreyard with all it’s rigging including the tackles at the deck for the parral falls.
  10. Bill97
    No Henry. In fact I am rigging that as we speak (text). 😊 Looking at your page 6 to see exactly how you attached the hitch to the selvage.
  11. Bill97
    Ian you make it sound less if an “endeavor” than I thought.
  12. Bill97
    Ian actually I am going to try my very first fully wooden ship. I purchased the OcCre Endeavour. Be a while before I open that box. Don’t have the electronics skills for RC , I don’t think😊
  13. Bill97
    End of my shift at the ship yard. Two roll parral rigged. Falls leading down to the deck where I will add tackles next along wage rest of the yard rigging. Ferrus you may also notice foot ropes changed to black. After some research I see you are right.
  14. Bill97
    My two roll parral with falls that will go down to deck tackles
  15. Bill97
    Ferrus I have several reference sources for how the parrals are rigged it is just with the space and the supplies I have two rolls looks better than when I tried 3 rolls. With 3 the bottom roll is up on the lashing and looks crooked. I am still going to rig the falls down to tackles at the deck level. Since I seriously doubt anyone that views my model in its display case will critique if I have two or three rolls of trucks on my fore yard parral I believe I will just live with it. I don’t know that I have ever on any of my numerous builds done the foot ropes in black lines. Interesting. You are probably right to protect them from the weather.
  16. Bill97
    I have determined that as a result where I placed the lashings (Henry and hat is the natutical term) around the mast, and the size beads I am using, I can only fit a two roll parral on the fore mast to hold the fore yard. I will still put an eye at each end and rig as I would have a three roll. I know this is probably not completely correct but will represent the parral. Still needs painting of course.
  17. Bill97
    No Ian. I have not. Where would I find it? Or I can just Google.
  18. Bill97
    Do any of you have Amazon Prime Video? There is a great series on there. You have to either scroll of type in the search. It is titled “Worlds Greatest Ships”. There are episodes about a number of great English historical ships. So far I have watched the one on Golden Hinde, Endeavour, and HMS Victory. So very good and enlightening.
  19. Bill97
    I went back again to my SR “bible”, R.C.Anderson’s book pages 152-154, to review the section on foot ropes. He does state that the history of foot ropes is obscure, at best. Horses were seen as early as 1642. Over the years the use of them varied as to which yards they were on. Some on the lower yards and some not. Some on top sail yards and some not. The French Royal Louis of 1692 had them everywhere except the crojack yard. With the SR being built about 20 years or so earlier, and the grandeur of it’s architecture, I am going to believe it proceeded the Royal Louis in having foot ropes everywhere except the crojack. It also adds a little extra visual interest to my model.
  20. Bill97
    I just pretty much followed the Heller instructions for that feature. The instructions showed adding the foot ropes on fore and main yards. However did not show parrals. Go figure?
  21. Bill97
    Ok every thing except the kitchen sink tied to the fore yard including the selvages I learned to make from Henry’s post. Dry fitted on foremast using a pin in back of yard into mast. Now to finally make the parral.
  22. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. Just getting educated. But that is different for the Soleli Royal? By the way, I am using your photos to practice making the selvagees.
  23. Bill97
    Spending my time now making and adding the rigging to the yards (foot ropes, blocks, etc). Of course while working on these my mind is on the future parrals we have previously discussed. I know I am going to need to make them and hopefully rig them with some bit of realism. I have read through the section in Anderson’s book and studied krill4’s diagram above. I also went back to my reference book for the HMS Victory (Longridge’s book). Interesting in the building of the Victory parrals were not used on the fore and main yards. Just the topsail yards and the topgallant yards.
  24. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. If anyone would know it would be you. 😊
  25. Bill97
    STUDSAIL/STAYSAIL/STUNSAIL Making a command decision here but will be wait to have my mind changed. Reading through Anderson’s Chapter 11, he is not a big fan of these spars on a model ship. According to him history shows they were just coming into use about the time the SR was built. Page 253 he states that he is not at all sure early stunsails dad yards. French drawings show the lower stunsails hoisted by the two corners. I plan to add sails to my model (probably furled) but not stunsails. With that in mind, reading through Anderson’s chapter, and realizing the difficulty of making and attaching the new spars vs the kit plastic, I have decided to leave these spars off of my yards. Your thoughts and/or opinion?

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...