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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. The last picture (3rd) is very helpful showing the mainstay collar. Going to work on that today. I know I am going to take both sides of the collar under the rail of the beakhead bulkhead. Trying to decide if I will take both through the center opening between the balusters or one to the port side and one to the starboard side of those two center balusters. The diameter of the foremast base causes the collar to bow out just slightly and touch against the inside of the two center balusters. If I go to the next opening port and starboard they touch the outside of the baluster. To my eye going through the inside just looks more refined maybe. I know in action this collar would not move and rub the balusters so I guess it would not really matter. On a much more important topic, how is your dad doing. Glad you are enjoying your vacation. Keep your son shooting hoops. Maybe someday he might be a Cardinal 😀
  2. Bill97
    Good morning Marc. How is vacation going?
  3. Bill97
    KarenM I am building the Heller Soleli Royal. I am working on the fore and Mainstay. I like the way you extended the length of the mainstay collar to go around the bowsprit over the beakhead bulkhead (under the rail) and aft of the foremast. I see in your pictures you have a heart on the end of the mainstay. I cannot tell in the photos, do you also have a heart attached to collar? I am wondering if that is how you set the mainstay up to the collar? I am using large 3 sheave blocks instead of hearts.
  4. Bill97
    Gregory the only reason I say that, usually I want to wait as long as possible so I am more easily able to access the interior during rigging, is because the Soleli Royal instructions show a large number of blocks tied to the shrouds at particular ratline positions. So I am assuming before I can I can do the rigging that uses those blocks I will need to add the ratlines so I know where to tie the block.
  5. Bill97
    About 60 percent of the ratlines on the starboard side of the main lower shrouds tied. A little adjustments before applying a touch of glue at the knots. Now with Henry’s advice I can rig the mainstay correctly, and then back to tying ratlines.
  6. Bill97
    Wow Henry there is some good stuff here to unpack. I think I understand. Are you explaining like Anderson shows in this example?
  7. Bill97
    Before I get heavy into the ratlines I decided to add the forestay and the mainstay. Using a combination of the Heller instructions and Anderson’s book I installed the forestay. Please be kind and don’t tell me I did something wrong 😀. This was not a simple process. The mouse and loop at the top was OK and not real difficult. It is the same as on my HMS Victory. The largest thread I have is 1mm. I wanted something for the two stays a bit larger so I served the entire length of the predetermined length of 1mm thread and a .3mm thread together inside my serving thread. The result is about a 1.4mm thread that I like for the stays. This was a bit more trouble than just purchasing larger thread but since these two applications is the only time I need anything that big I just made it. The Heller instructions showed just making a simple eye in both the stay and the collar. Then reeve it together with thread. Anderson says on page 99 of his book that the forestay was set up with blocks, deadeyes, or hearts. I thought that makes more since so I went with a two 3 sheave blocks. The same block and process Heller describes for the mainstay setup. For visual interest I spaced the deadeyes the same distance apart as the foremast lower shroud deadeyes, 13mm. I am now studying the mainstay setup. The loop and mouse at the top is the same as the forestay. The mainstay collar is going to take some research and head scratching. Heller shows making a stay that has a two thread composition that goes around the foremast then to an additional length of thread to continue on toward the collar. Three sheave blocks are used to connect the stay and the collar. Anderson on pages 100 and 101 describes several different collar configurations. All of them seem to have the block attached to the collar being as high as the rail on the beakhead bulkhead. Heller describes this collar only being 1” long. This shorter length results in the stay breaking over and rubbing on the beakhead bulkhead, which I don’t expect was the case. Please enlighten me.
  8. Bill97
    Yeah Patrick you’re probably right. I just sometimes think when I am rigging “gosh if those ratlines were not in the way it would be so much easier to get to that…..”. I think I love me your idea to alternate between doing ratlines and other things. Mainmast lower shrouds ratlines underway!
  9. Bill97
    KarenM your build was referred to me by Marc (Hubac’s Historian). He suggested I read through your build to witness the master job you are doing. I must compliment you your beautiful ship. I am building the Heller Soleli Royal as can be seen here on MSW. I had a general opinion question about how long do others wait before adding the ratlines? Once they are in place it does make accessing some of the rigging around the deck a bit more difficult. However it is important to add the ratlines as soon as possible. I see on your build you have added the ratlines soon after the shrouds.
  10. Bill97
    This is the issue that has me. The attached photo shows the shroud/ratline sets and the blocks to be attached. I almost have to tie the ratlines in order to determine the block placements.
  11. Bill97
    Thanks Ian. Appreciate the comment. I saw the design for the stand somewhere on the internet. Used mahogany to make it to go along with the mahogany paint I used on the different areas of the ship. Marc I waited until I was almost finished rigging my Victory before I did the ratlines. I planned to do the same on my SR until I saw the number of blocks to be tied to he shrouds around he ratlines. That is what gave me pause for my plan. Will look through KarenM’s build. Enjoy your vacation.
  12. Bill97
    Mizzenmast lower shrouds now rigged. Never know if I should go ahead and tackle the ratlines or wait until after more rigging is complete. My curiosity is the instructions show a number of blocks tied to the shrouds for future rigging. Their placement seems to be very in specific locations on the shrouds that are determined by where the ratlines are. I suppose there is not a reason to tie all the blocks on now. I can just add them as I am rigging each line but that still makes me curious as to when to add the he ratlines.
  13. Bill97
    Marc this is the way I have done it in the past that should work very well for you to get the dramatically billowing topsail. Find something that resembles the shape you want like a soup can, shot glass, etc. for a mold. Something that has a roundness roughly the shape of the arc you want. Cut out and do what ever sewing needs to be done on your sailcloth. Then simply lay the sail over the mold and apply numerous coats of diluted white craft glue (Elmer’s). The more coats you add the stiffer the billowed sail will be. Once it drys hard you can do further trimming and shaping. Then paint it to achieve the aged effect you desire. This process always works great for me.
  14. Bill97
    Foremast lower shrouds rigged. Again, as with the mainmast, I am waiting to do the final tie off of the laniards and add the ratline until later in the rigging process. Would any of you guys know how to keep the deadeye on the end of the shroud from turning? Most of mine on both the fore and main mast are turned about 10 to 15 degrees off parallel to the channel. I rigged the deadeyes to where the shroud ends lay forward on one side and aft on the other. Just curious if this small amount of turning is OK? I know during this time period a bar would not have been used/added above these deadeyes.
  15. Bill97
    Lower shrouds for mainmast rigged to deadeyes. Leaving laniard ends long until all adjustments in the future are complete. Then I will clip and add a spot of glue. Will wait until further into the rigging to add the ratlines. I am satisfied with the pretty straight line of the upper deadeyes. Now on to the foremast.
  16. Bill97
    Process underway. Arrow is to remind me which direction ends lay
  17. Bill97
    I have the lower shrouds on the fore and main mast served hung and numbered. I also have the main mast deadeyes set up for rigging using the method I have long used that works great for me. I take a thin piece of craft wood about the length of the channel and a bit wider than what I expect the deadeye spacing to be. I then fit this piece of wood on the channel behind the lower deadeyes. If there is any obstruction like the little knees on the SR I just notch them out for a flush fit. I make a mark above a deadeye then remove the piece of wood. I am using 5mm deadeyes for my mainmast so I expect the mark to be close to 5mm from the edge. I then draw a line using this mark parallel to the bottom edge of the wood. This line represents the top of all my lower deadeyes. I then determine the distance I want between my upper and lower deadeyes. I like between 2 and 3 times the diameter of the deadeye I am using. So in this situation I am going with 13mm between my upper and lower deadeye. I draw a line on the piece of wood parallel to the bottom line and 13mm apart. This new line represents the bottom of my upper deadeyes. I then place the piece of wood back on the channel behind the deadeyes and use several push pins through the holes in the lower deadeyes to lock it in place. To determine the proper position of the upper deadeyes I stretch out the numbered shrouds over the appropriate lower deadeye and mark the top line where the shrouds cross it. This mark now represents the bottom of each upper deadeye. Again using push pins I simply pin the upper deadeye at the mark insuring the center hole of the deadeye is up. Sometimes a second pin the the deadeye is necessary to keep it from turning. Once all of the deadeyes are pinned in place they are locked in the desired parallel position I will want. Now it is just a matter of rigging each deadeye to it’s shroud. I have a matching arrangement on the opposite side as well. So as I rig the deadeyes I can work side to side to insure the lower mast stays vertical. With the wood reinforcement in the mast it really does not move and the pins hold the deadeye tight enough that I can put as much tension on the shroud as I want. Once a shroud is rigged I can remove the pin and set it free if necessary. It is very important to maintain numbers on the finished shrouds. Once all are rigged the pins are removed and the piece of wood is removed. The shrouds are now ready for the laniards. The final result will be the deadeyes lined up just as they were on the piece of wood.
  18. Bill97
    Yes yancovitch that is one I forgot that does fit perfectly.
  19. Bill97
    Marc there are no more adjectives to use that have not been used over and over when commending you on the job you have done. Absolutely stunning.
  20. Bill97
    Lower shrouds for fore mast served, hung, and numbered. Ready for rigging the deadeyes and lanyards.
  21. Bill97
    Thanks Henry. I had just fond this online. Gary M replied the distance was anywhere between 3 and 5 times the diameter of the deadeye, with 4 times the diameter being the most common. I held up a test of 5 times and thought that looked way to wide. I was looking more at something between 2and 3 times the diameter which is more in line with your trusted opinion.
  22. Bill97
    Ferrus Manus Covid is not a very nice birthday present. Hope you recover quickly my friend.
  23. Bill97
    Is there a standard amount distance between the lower deadeye on the channel and the upper deadeye at the end of the shroud? I have read through the corresponding sections in Anderson and Longridge’s books, as well as the Heller instructions. I even attempted Googling it. Find no definitive answer. On my HMS Victory I just estimated what I thought looked good. But I have no doubt there was a general standard plus or minus a bit for laniard tightening. I can convert for scale if I had a general idea. You guys know?
  24. Bill97
    Anderson says the first thing to go on the mast is the pendants. Two on each side of the fore and main mast, hung just like the shrouds will be. One on each side of the mizzenmast. That was my task for the day. I am using the same thread sizes for the SR as I did on my HMS Victory since they are both the same scale. Henry I liked your idea of using pieces of a copper tube to make thimbles. I used a size of copper tube that I thought made a good looking thimble for the pendants. Started out serving each of the threads a couple inches in the middle where it went around the mast. After they were all hung I applied weight to each one and painted them liberally with diluted white glue. Hopefully when dry they will hang naturally.
  25. Bill97
    Deadeyes and chains installed for the shrouds for all three masts. Waiting to put in the deadeyes and chains for the backstays until I add the next section of masts. Want to make sure I get the correct angle. Now on to fixing some of the rigging steps i unfortunately missed. Then serving and adding installing shrouds.

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