Bill97
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Gammoning and Rack Blocks (thank you John for the nautical name) completed. The method I used to attach the rack blocks was to drill a hole in the tap at each end. Then I laced a thread around the center thread of the gammoning and brought the ends through the hole in the rack blocks. Same process for the tip and bottom. Then I simply lashed the two ends around the back of the gammoning threads and tied tight with a touch of white glue.
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Thank Henry. I think I understand. I will do mine that same way. Will let you know how it comes out. Bill
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I found a picture on Henry’s build that shows a clear example of how he did it. He lashed the top and bottom tabs around what appears to be the inner 3 of the 5 gammon wraps.
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Looking at the pictures of the rigging I knew they were for future rigging similar to the dolphin striker on the Victory. I referred to them as gammon support because I looked up the part #’s name in the ‘77 Heller instructions you sent me baker. My main curiosity is how to attach them to the gammoning? There is a little tab at the top and bottom I assume I am to lash around the tabs and then all 5 loops of the gammoning pulling them tight behind these pieces like a pony tail?
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Ok guys I know I ask a lot of questions and some are probably dumb. I apologize for that and appreciate your patience. I have looked at this over and over. I am going to do the gammoning today. After that is done I want to add the inner and outer gammon support as shown in the instructions. Nothing I am reading shows how to connect these parts to a he gammoning. How do I attach them? Baker I even looked to the 1977 PDF you sent me, again thank you so much, and it does not say what to do to attach them.
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Thanks guys. That is what I hoped was the case.
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Marc and/or Henry help! I am dry fitting the masts. I can not remember when constructing the hull and the bottom deck where the anchor point for the bottom of the mizzenmast is. Does it go all the way through the decks to the hull similar to the fore and main mast? Or does it anchor on the bottom deck? I seem to remember there being a hole in the bottom deck and I can run a thin stick all the way down to the hull at the mizzenmast location. However I am not able to get my mizzenmast to go any further down than the bottom deck. Holding the mizzenmast up to the side of the hull with the bottom at the keel seems likely me a very low mast top. It does seem to anchor somehow at the lower deck.
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Fantastic Henry. I will give it a try.
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Oh good lord Marc, you are right I do have them in backwards 😀. Glad I did not glue them yet 😳! That would have been a mess. I will need to look at what the appropriate cheeks look like. Thanks Marc.
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Thanks Henry. So you are skilled enough to cut a perfect circle of styrene and either before or after you cut it out you drilled a hole in the center the exact diameter of the mast at the point it passes through the deck? I believe I will experiment with a few tries to see if I can master a nice looking coat before I decide for sure. Will certainly wait to glue in the lower mast sections until I decide. Thanks again. Really appreciate it. Bill
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Lower mast sections dry fitted. The sections painted, woolings added, unnecessary groove at the top of the fore and main mast filled prior to painting. Blocks added to the bowsprit per Heller instructions and bowsprit glued in place. Still need to add the gammoning. I always love it when the mast, to include the bowsprit, line up perfectly behind each other as can be seen in one of the photos. Of course this is just the lower mast sections. Will see how they stay aligned as I add the topmast and the topgallant mast along with the shrouds and stays.
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Thanks Henry.
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Thanks Henry. What about the cylinder sort of shaped sections. Doing the same with them? Henry I saw in your early photos that you made what you called a mast coat to go around the base of the mast at the deck. What was your process for that? I like that detail.
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Thanks my friend. At your convenience.
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Marc I see your 👍but not sure of your recommendation on remaking these topgallants.
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I am looking at these top gallant masts and wondering how do you make them using metal rods or wood dials? Do you cut away all the plastic masts sections from the base and all the other mast construct sections then drill out these pieces to accept the metal or wood? Or do you fabricate the entire mast including the tops, etc?
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Marc I meant to tell you I was going to the Racing Louisville vs NY/NJ Gotham NWSL game today. Good day for Louisville. Ian you can see we are enjoying your smoke 😊. Love ya anyway 😀.
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Lower large deadeyes for shrouds on the foremast and mainmast completed with blackened strop. Some fall a little short in the beauty contest. They will be relegated to the starboard side. I plan to display my SR in the case with the port side facing out. All seem to be strong enough to do their designed job. Of course I will see if that is true when shroud pressure is applied. I think since I have the soldered joint on the top of the deadeye and the top will ultimately be obscured by the lanyard, I am going to add a small drop of CA glue to the top at the joint. That way if the shroud pressure would cause the soldered joint to pop the CA will keep it in place. Your thoughts?
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Oh yes Henry, that is for sure. Just shaping the strop. Thanks for the reminder. Wow Marc that would be some special detail. Do you plan to do that with your preventer plates?
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Again not a problem Ian. I always enjoy the discussions. So do I use a preventer plate stepped under the wale? Soldering issue solved. Stropes for the lower deadeyes on the fore and main mast being shaped. I am using a 5mm deadeye for the fore sms main mast lower deadeye. I find putting the soldered joint on top the deadeye provides the less stress on the solder. Will shape them then open a little to get the deadeye out for blackening.
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So I am authentic using the the 3 chain links as I did on my HMS Victory? The strop around the deadeye that extends down through the channel, the toe link that attaches to the hull, and the center link that connects the strope and the toe? The Victory has a fourth link that attaches at bottom of toe (same nail) and extends down the hull a little further. On the SR the toe is nailed on a wale. To add this fourth link would require it to be bent around the bottom of the wale like a tiny step. Would this be the case or was this fourth link just not used?
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