Bill97
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Yes. That is Alex Modeling. I am watching his complete series. Watched a number of his other builds as well. Interesting the way he went back and modified his Victory build to except the Dafi parts. I noticed in his painting the hull that he does it as two separate pieces. My process is to paint my deck sections, then paint the necessary portions of the inside of the hull, then put it together. After letting it dry I then putty and sand along the seam and anywhere else that needs fine tuning. At that point is when I start painting the hull as one piece. What process do you follow?
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Great Hubac May friend. I have spent the day just reading through the instructions and identifying the specific pieces referenced in each step. This is complex but will be so enjoyable to build. I will definitely watch a lot of YouTube videos, especially for painting. Wish someone published a more detailed step by step instructions manual.
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Thanks Jeff
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Thanks Hubac’s. As with my just finished Wasa, I hope you don’t mind my frequent questions. Always helpful. By the way, I find it interesting and fun to see how far around the world MSW members extend so I like to check the profile of those I communicate with. I saw on your’s that you are also a furniture builder. I to am a furniture builder and have been for many years. Love doing that as well!
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Tuesday, June 15, 2021, 9:00 AM. Today I officially opened the box to my Heller 1/100 HMS Victory to begin construction. Prior to this it was just to peek inside to marvel at the contents while working on another ship. Now I will begin the quest! No idea what the date will be when I post FINISHED. From what I read it will surly be quite some time from now. WOW! What have I willingly and excitedly got myself into? No doubt I will refer to MSW to find guidance and encouragement. Looking so forward to this build. As others who have built the Heller model will attest to, the instructions are complex to say the least? Hoping it is not a sign of what is to come, I already have a question in step 1. Parts 42-55 (Port and Starboard glazing) are instructed to be painted bright red. See the 3rd picture. They are clear plastic like windows. Why would you paint them red?
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MY WASA IS FINISHED!!!! I have completed the beautiful ship Wasa. Thanks to all my new friends on MSW for all your help, suggestions, recommendations, and encouragement. This was my first build at this smaller and more fragile scale. Also a build that required me to improvise and employ skills and techniques learned in previous builds. The rigging is not perfect and not completely accurate but I am happy with the outcome. Looks very good in the case I made for it. Thanks again everyone. Now on to my most ambitious build yet. The Heller 1/100 HMS Victory!
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This is a question for any of you that have used Daniel’s brass plates, or seen them used by other builders. I have not yet started my build of the Victory. I have just A small bit remaining on my Wasa and then I am ready. I have decided I am going to use Daniel’s brass plates number 3 and 4. May possibly use others. Don’t know yet. My question is if any one has seen the pieces from the brass plates used as is without painting or burnishing? I know if I did the Victory would not look authentic but I wonder if I did build it that way if it would present a visually interesting model with the uniform bits of shiny brass on the ship. As I said, just curious if you may have seen it and/or your opinion.
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Hung sails on foremast and completed the foremast rigging. Opted to furl the bottom sail to make viewing the deck a little easier. Going to do the same with the bottom sail on the mainmast. Also hung the two sails on the bowsprit (?). Will complete the rigging on it and start the sails on the mainmast next time I can spend some time. I really like the way it is coming along. I am actually surprised at how nice of a model it is at this smaller scale.
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And then there were sails. Thinking about adding a little antiquing but not sure since the Wasa did not last long enough for the sails to get old!
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OK rigging completed up to the point of adding sails and then finishing the running rigging. Placed her in the custom made case while she awaits me to complete making the sails. If you have followed any of my other builds you have seen my process for making sails. I continued using that process on the Wasa. I use the plastic sails that came with the kit as molds for my cloth sails. First I measure the distance between the lines on the sails and transfer that to plain white paper filling the entire sheet with the lines. Then I measure and layout the pattern for each sail on the paper matching the lines on the plastic sails to the lines on the paper. I then cut a section of antique cloth I have and line it the same way I did the paper. After making the paper patterns I cut them out and place them on the cloth matching the lines and outline them with pencil. Once I have the patterns on the cloth my wife hand stitches the lines to add the sewn canvas texture to the sails. Then I cut them out and using a mixture of diluted white glue I stretch them out over the plastic sails and paint them with the glue. Once they dry I will pop them off the plastic and have perfect billowed sails. I will then hit them with a little airbrush and have a final product much better than OOB plastic sails.
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Thanks Moab. Appreciate the kind words. It has been a challenge and a pleasure. Not spoke with you before. Always enjoy meeting MSW members I have not talked to in the past.
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OK guys. It has been a while since my last Wasa post. I completed the standing rigging and the pre sails running rigging. I took some executive privilege in my rigging. The kit instructions for rigging was very limited with only a small amount indicated. I somewhat agreed with the limited amount because at this small 1/144 scale a lot of ropes (thread) criss crossing throughout could have become very crowded and distracted from the beautiful ship. I combined the instructions with rigging plans I have from other period builds I have to come up with my rigging plan. I used a dark brown (coke) thread in 3 different sizes for the standing rigging as well as the shrouds and ratlines. I used a tan thread (it looks almost white on pictures) in different sizes for the completed running rigging. I know my rigging falls short of being accurate but it makes for a pleasing model of the Wasa to be viewed by the untrained eye. I decided I do not enjoy rigging ships of this scale as much as larger ones. The masts and yards are much to fragile. I struggled getting the lines to be a little taught and not sagging because of there not being much resistance. So now on to making my sails. My plan is to furrow the lower sail on the foremast and mainmast. Then complete the remaining running rigging.
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Ian I communicated with Daniel about purchasing plates 3 and 4. A question I have for you and Daniel, if he reads by build log. I know the plates are brass. Is the idea to leave them brass when added to the ship or paint or treat them in some way to change the color.
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Ian does plate 3 and 4 have the chainplates and the stanchions as you recommend in in your earlier post? Like you I only have space to work on one at a time and that is my plan.
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Thanks Ian and Kelp. The ink marker is a great idea. I have the one in the photo in different sizes. You think this is basically the same thing? Ian I need to study Dafi’s etch sheets to see if I know for sure which are the ones you are talking about, and how to purchase them. Could you tell me for sure which two you recommend? Maybe if Dafi is out there he can comment here, if that is legal on MSW. I already have the after market deadeyes, blocks, and thread. So many builders have mentioned how long (years) it has taken them. Do you also work on other builds at the same time? Leave the Victory for a while and come back to it? Or just stay devoted to it beginning to end?
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So I have seen the hull/stern painting done a few different ways. I find yellow to be one of the more difficult colors to get a good solid coverage with, especially over another color. The way I am thinking of doing it is to prime the hull and stern with a light color primer (maybe white). Then a combination of airbrush and hand paint all the yellow ochre. Once that is complete, mask all the areas that are to remain yellow, and then airbrush the black. This seems like it would be an OK process for the sides. However with process I guess I will need to very carefully hand paint the black between the spindles and around the windows on the stern? Is this how you guys would do it? If you have a better suggestion please share. I can see me getting into analysis paralysis with this beauty! 🤪
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Thanks Hubac. I have looked at Daniel’s work! Breathtaking! Even thought about purchasing some of the etched pieces but not sure if I will do that or not. Really want to get the hull painting impressive. Will see how I do. I am rounding the corner on my Airfix Wasa. Once it is complete the Victory comes out. I have prepared myself that this will be monumental and I plan to take as long as I feel necessary to experience it. I am not even going to use the words “complete it” because I have no idea when that might be. Once I get into it I will look forward to, and welcome your advice. Bill
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OK my MSW friends. I am going to need a kick to get me started on my Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. I know it is going to be a long and enjoyable process so I have to eventually get started. I got the kit a good while ago but have only removed the plastic wrapper and peeked inside. Meanwhile I continue working on a previous build but see the box containing that beauty setting there in my peripheral vision. I have spent countless hours reading the build log of other Victory builders. That may be part of my reason for delay. Each time I have my mind set on how I want to proceed once I start I see an idea or technique someone has used and think “Wow that is what I want to do!” So I guess my concern is doing something a certain way then later seeing a better way and being disappointed. My initial internal debate is the process used to paint the hull, especially the stern? I think by far the design of the stern and the paint scheme is so distinctive on the Victory. You see it you know it is the Victory! So beautiful! If you are now building, or did in the past, what was your method to apply the black and yellow ochre.
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Michael on my previous builds of larger scale like the 1/96 USS Constitution and 1/96 Cutty Sark the instructions showed mounting points for the yards if with sails and lower points on the masts for without sails. There are clearly molded places on the mast for the two options. On my 1/144 Wasa there is only the one molded place on each of the masts for each yard. That is where I currently have them securely attached and somewhat initially rigged. If I was to try to lower them I would have to just randomly pick a spot where I think the yards would look correct on the masts for furrowed or without sails. I would also risk damaging the yards and mast trying to remove them now. So I guess to be accurate I am going to have to go with full sails or decide to be inaccurate and have furrowed sails on raised yards. Decisions decisions.
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That is the plan Michael. The Airfix model does not provide anchor points for putting the yards otherwise. I am thinking of maybe furrowing the sails but not sure yet. At this scale the top sails are pretty small. Not much bigger than an old time matchbook.
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Completed all the shrouds and ratlines. Michael I went ahead and added the ratlines to the top shrouds. I thought it helped them stand out just a little more than without. Also have all the yards attached. A little thread trimming here and there and then on to the standing rigging.
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Thanks Michael. That is interesting about the top gallant masts. The instructions and picture on the box show it having them. It also has me putting deadeyes in the top “crows nest” to support the shrouds. ????
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Woo Hoo, after a long while since I posted last I have reached the highest point of the ship. Top of mainmast. Following the tying of what seemed like 8 million knots I have completed the shrouds and ratlines on the lower section of all three masts, the upper part of the mizzenmast, and the middle section of the mainmast and foremast. Still have the shrouds and ratlines on the top section of both the mainmast and foremast as well as the small one on the end of the bowsprit. Have not had one of these before the Wasa. I did learn very early in the process that at this scale (1/144) the masts are quite flexible and fragile. As a result I found it a bit difficult to get the shrouds taught. I know they are not to be tight but just getting them to a smooth drape was difficult. Tighten a shroud here and two get loose there! Back and forth 🤨. I am satisfied with them.
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By the way Backer, the other day I had a long conversation with my daughter and son-in-law remembering their 5 years living in Belgium and our many visits with them! Beautiful country I would love to visit again.
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Thanks Backer. I have copied them and going to either print or view digitally. Should be very helpful.
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