ScottRC
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ScottRC got a reaction from Canute in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Well, maybe I'm not finished. I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton) and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
Scott
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ScottRC reacted to Dan Vadas in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
The two "cow-catchers" are the last major things to fit to the loco before it's finished. Here are the pics of them :
The bars are all different angles and lengths, so I sorted them out and marked them before gluing them together :
The brake hose fittings :
All the front is now finished. Just a few rivets to re-glue and I can spray it with satin finish clear lacquer :
Now to build the tracks for the base.
Danny
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Bounty by Baker - FINISHED - Revell - scale 1/110 - PLASTIC - semi scratch and extra detail
I like your technique for the copper bottom.
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Jolly Roger Pirate Ship by Kimberley - FINISHED - Lindberg - PLASTIC - 1:130
Woo Hoo, looks great any pirate would be proud to sail on her.
So, you disregarded the instructions to put the sails on and you have parts left over? Well, I must say you have past into the category of now seasoned ship modeler. Just wait, soon you will be measuring spars and masts with calipers and making your own because the one in the kit is too tall, too short, or you just want to do it for the fun of it.
Don't worry about the mizzen topmast being on backwards, I mounted all three masts on backwards on a Constitution, and this was after building this kit at least several times before. Its such a bad problem for me that I now turn the ship about when placing masts.
Again, thanks for posting and have fun with the Santa Maria.
Scott
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Jolly Roger Pirate Ship by Kimberley - FINISHED - Lindberg - PLASTIC - 1:130
Ditto on the acrylic. I use pretty much all water base now on my plastic models oils or stains on wood. Easy to clean, they seem to last forever if sealed, and no smell. One drawback is that some types, such as the arts and crafts brands, require a primer in order to adhere to the plastic. Humbrol is a great line of paint as J.Pett indicated, for brush painting. You are lucky you have a store nearby that stocks it. Tamiya and Gungze Sangyo are two other brands of acrylic that are high quality specific for plastic models.
One drawback I do have with acrylics is that I cannot get the effect I want with washes. Ulisis's Santa Maria is an excellent example of doing thin layers of color to shade over a base coat producing a deep, rich, 3 dimensional effect. This is where I do a base coat with an acrylic, spray it with a lacquer clear coat, then will paint washes using oilpaint thinned with turpentine.
I like what you said about remembering terms. I still get yard, spar, stay, brace, and shroud all confused. I started sailing lessons a few years ago and drove my instructor nuts.
I remember the Jolly Roger instructions well, insomuch that I put the main tops'l yards on the fore mast. This is the point where you model by sight, rule of thumb, and gut instinct. Makes it more fun. Life is full of rules and instructions, here is your chance to get a away from it all.
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Jolly Roger Pirate Ship by Kimberley - FINISHED - Lindberg - PLASTIC - 1:130
Forgot to add that that was the only picture I have of the Jolly Roger, it met its demise from the full broadside of a cat a few years ago.
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Jolly Roger Pirate Ship by Kimberley - FINISHED - Lindberg - PLASTIC - 1:130
A little word on cements. Be careful with the Testors, for it will attack or craze the plastic if put on too thick. Tamiya is a better cement but can still craze the plastic if put on too thick.
Plastic Strut, WeldX, or Weld On are brush on liquid cements that do not harm the plastic. I think Micheals and Hobby Lobby carry it.
I also prefer to use Lock Tite Gel superglue for applications that require a semifast and strong bond.
For knots, I use "Head Cement" that is used to secure thread for Fly tying. It is easy to use, dries clear and thin, and is indestructable.
I attached pictures of both my Jolly Roger and Revell Santa Maria. The Santa Maria was built in my dorm while working up in Glacier Park using tempra paint, a red marker, and a pencile for coloring and detail.
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Jolly Roger Pirate Ship by Kimberley - FINISHED - Lindberg - PLASTIC - 1:130
Ulises,
Did you do a base coat then several "washes" of differnent shades of browns and black? Kimberly, this style of painting is a lot of fun.
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Jolly Roger Pirate Ship by Kimberley - FINISHED - Lindberg - PLASTIC - 1:130
Kimberly,
Great progress. I built the "Pirate Ship" and converted it to a fictional ship from the Alexander Kent series. I must tell you, that is one of the bloody hell's teeth of a model to start on. Lindberg kits tend to be more flash and missmolded plastice than actual parts. I raise a toast to you.
I also have a few of the Revell Columbus ships. I love the Pinta, and the Santa Maria is tops for a quick, easy, relaxing build. All three of the kits are great. The Heller Santa Maria is also in the same boat (pun).
Other fun sailing ships to build are the galleons by Revell. Golden Hind and the large Spanish Galleon. Although some discredit their historical accuracy, they are by far fun to build. Since you like working with bright colors, you will have a lot of fun painting these models.
Note that all the above kits I mentioned are simple square rigged ships that will help you move into more complex square riggers such as Frigates and Clipperships.
I would also suggest for future builds the Revell Mayflower, Bounty/Beagle, and of coarse their Constitution. If your ready for the challange of multiple yards, the Cutty Sark and Stag Hound are great kits to cut your teeth on clippers.
I have built a number of Heller models, and to me, they are beautiful kits, but seem to be harder than wooden kits.
Keep up the good work
Scott
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ScottRC got a reaction from Jack12477 in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Well, maybe I'm not finished. I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton) and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
Scott
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ScottRC got a reaction from mtaylor in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Well, maybe I'm not finished. I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton) and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
Scott
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ScottRC got a reaction from lmagna in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
I also completed a 1/700 CV2 Lexington this year, and for Christmas, received a 1/700 CV16 in WW2. So now my goal is to have a model of all the ships called Lexington. Here is a pic of all three.
Scott
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ScottRC got a reaction from lmagna in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Its been almost four years ago and I forgot about this build log. I did finish the Lex and hopefully get a display cabinet built in the future for it and all my Dad's certificates and burial flag. Here are the completed pictures. I hope I can say that I actually completed my first build log.
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ScottRC got a reaction from lmagna in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Well, maybe I'm not finished. I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton) and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
Scott
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ScottRC got a reaction from modeller_masa in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Well, maybe I'm not finished. I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton) and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
Scott
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ScottRC reacted to Stuntflyer in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale
Here you go. . .
Mike
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ScottRC reacted to Stuntflyer in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale
It was seven months ago that I first started to plank the hull below the wales. I'm happy to say that it is now all done. The last few days were spent sanding out the hull planking. I find that I can see dips, rises and other types of fluctuations better when the lights are off and I just use the daylight coming through the window. Sounds crazy, but it really accentuates things better than my indoor lighting. I added the stern post as well. No finish has been applied though that will be done as soon as I re-paint any scuffed areas on the wales and cleanup the keel and knee with a light sanding.
Mike
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ScottRC got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Well, maybe I'm not finished. I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton) and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
Scott
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ScottRC reacted to Stuntflyer in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale
Thank you! Yup, quite a few throwaways. Funny thing though, it always seems to go faster and better the second time around.
Mike
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ScottRC reacted to Stuntflyer in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale
Hello and a Happy New year to everyone!
I've been making some progress on the hull planking. The last two belts on the starboard side minus one strake are done. As tempting as it was to add the last strake I knew that I would still need a clamping area to adhere to when I start again on the port side. Clamping against the keel doesn't work since the angle of the clamp would pull the plank up and away from the bulkhead. Moving the clamp down five strakes changes the angle of the clamp just enough to hold the plank tight against the bulkhead.
I've added a few photos showing the planking detail both fore and aft.
All of the sanding so far has been done with Soft Sanders. They are hard foam shapes that you wrap with adhesive backed sandpaper which is supplied by the company. The sandpaper lasts forever it seems. I am using 180 and 320 grit. http://www.softsanders.com/products/wood. I find that these two shapes work well. I cut them into 3" to 5" lengths. They conform to the hull shape allowing for a smooth transition when sanding.
Mike
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ScottRC reacted to vintage modeler in USS Lexington CV16 by scottrc - FINISHED with UPDATES!, - Renwall - plastic
Really looking good, the PE railings look clean and delicate and add a lot. Makes me want to start mine but I'm up to my armpits in a 64 I/2 Mustang and a rusted out 32 Ford for next weeks Club Challenge.
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ScottRC got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Essex by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC - as she appeared in February 1944
Awesome work Greg. Dry transfers and paint are the way to go!
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ScottRC got a reaction from mtaylor in USS Essex by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC - as she appeared in February 1944
Awesome work Greg. Dry transfers and paint are the way to go!
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ScottRC got a reaction from Canute in USS Essex by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC - as she appeared in February 1944
Awesome work Greg. Dry transfers and paint are the way to go!
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ScottRC got a reaction from RGL in USS Essex by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC - as she appeared in February 1944
Awesome work Greg. Dry transfers and paint are the way to go!
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