AnobiumPunctatum

Small advance of the week.
The second row of the planks was glued (plank 3# and 4#).
I followed the steps described in the manual. I have to confess a little deviation from the instructions. After bending and twisting the plank 3# with heat, I soaked the first two inches of the plank in hot water during a few minutes ant put it in place (without glue) to obtain a more precise shape. I waited the next day to start gluing it.
A little sanding is still needed on the lower outboard side near the bow to flush with the plank 1#.
Now, I will begin the last row.
I have a little question : as this last three planks are not clinker planked, is it useful to mark the edge of the planks with some 2B pencil ? It seems to me that no but I'm not sure...
 
 

Chuck, thanks for your little reminder on the last parts of the planking. The two small pieces have been added.
Andrew, this model ship is a must to have ! Syren Ship Model Company produced a little marvel !
And thanks to all the likes.
 
Just a small advance this week.
I have removed the model from the base. The key word is 'Take your time'. Go slow and push alternatively from port to starboard. I was a little worried before I started but finally this step happened more easily than expected. Just proceed slowly.

Then I prepared the build board gluing together the two parts and adding cherry strips provided in the kit.

Now it's time to remove the frame centers...
 

Thanks for all the 'Likes'.
It's done. The frame centers were removed. I used for this step four different tools : I started cutting with a triangular files. Then I enlarged the cut with the semi-circular file (the rounded shape used on the inside of the hull). Then I continued using the little saw. The cut is delicately finished using the cutter.
Once again just one tip : work gently.
Only the first frame to remove is a little more complicate because we have little room to bend it... Then the workspace gets bigger and bigger...

I just started to sand the tops of each frame down so they will be flush with the top of the planking. It's the preliminary step before to glue the cap rail.
 

The cap rail is in place. The three sections were glued quite easily because the width of the pieces is generous. So no problem to position the cap rail. Just  make sure you have enough width when you will sand the pieces.
Sanding the cap rail was more time consuming than expected. After having sanding the outboard edge flush with the planking, I drew with a compass open to a width of 5/64" a line all along the top of the cap rail. I have the view of the area to be eliminated.
I completed this step in three work sessions. By chance it's the FIFA World Cup, so I was able to work while listening to the broadcast of the match on my TV.  You just have to stay calm when your favorite team scores a goal...   It was a bit more difficult during the Swiss-Serbia match !
I think that this step is important and that it is necessary to devote the necessary time because it gives you the final aspect of the barge.
I will now work on the floorboards.

I have been speaking to Peter Rindlisbacher who is an artist and model maker.  He is the builder and owner of the longboat replica in the photos I posted.  He has already given me some great insight about the rig.  He actually sails this thing and is very knowledgeable.  I believe he is also going to be the dinner speaker this year at the conference.  I have invited him to join our little group project as well.
 
Here are some additional photos of his longboat replica.
 




 
 

Sorry, that was a calculation fault of mine. I thought on the Model Shipways kit as I wrote my last thread.
1/24 is also a really nice choice. It's the same scale as your pinnace models.

1/48 is perfect. The frames are so much more stable und can be build with the right scale.
The detailed build log will be a great help later.
 
EDIT: ANother reason for me is, that I build my other models also in the scale

Sorry, that was a calculation fault of mine. I thought on the Model Shipways kit as I wrote my last thread.
1/24 is also a really nice choice. It's the same scale as your pinnace models.

1/48 is perfect. The frames are so much more stable und can be build with the right scale.
The detailed build log will be a great help later.
 
EDIT: ANother reason for me is, that I build my other models also in the scale

Continuing along....
 
For those familiar with this design concept from my Queen Anne Barge kit,  you will recognize the two-piece build board.  I have however, tried to make some improvements with each new project based on watching others build them.  In this case,  I have added some slots for bracing blocks.  Two for the transom and two for the bow/stem to stabilize them while planking.  These pieces can be seen below.  But do NOT glue them into the slots.  These will need to be removed at some point in the build.  It will be easier to remove the boat after planking without these in position.  They are a press fit.  If they are too snug....sand them a bit thinner because remember you will be removing them after a few planking strakes are completed.  So make sure they are loose enough for that.
 

There are two types of frames on contemporary models like this and the barge.  One piece frames and two piece frames.  Th etwo piece frames have floors and top timbers.  We will be doing the one piece frames first and there are 5 of them.  Another tip I was given by an individual can be seen below.  You can see thin strips of packaging tape along the inner cut line.  I used heavy and sticky packaging tape.  You can fold over the end to make a tab and place the tape so it spans across the seam.  This will give it added (temporary) strength while fairing and planking.  The tape is put on both sides.  The tabs will make it easier to remove the tape before breaking the inside of each frame free when it comes time to do so.
 

Then once this is finished you must test the frames in their slots on the build board.  They will be very snug by design initially.  You dont want these loose and falling out of the build board.  But you dont want them too tight either.  You want to be able to easily remove them at any time.  The best way to achieve the best fit is to sand the two tabs that fit into each slot just a little at a time until they are the perfect thickness.  You will know when they are good because they will be firmly seated and yet be somewhat easy to remove.  Be careful not to break the small tabs that hold the frame centers in the frames.  No need to clean any laser char.
 
In addition, test the fit of the bottom of the frame so it fits the same in its notch on the keel.  Not too tight and not too loose. The three single piece frames at the stern are shown below being test fit. and the two at the bow should be as well.  Dont glue these into the build board.  That would be a huge mistake.

 
With this completed, lets test the keel assembly on the build board atop the frames.  Carefully place the keel assembly into the stern half of the build board first.  This is a bit tricky if you havent done it before but once you do it a couple of times you figure out the little nuances.  Slip the stern post between the two braces first as you carefully guide the keel onto each frame.  Dont push to hard in each notch of the keel.  You have have tested and filed those so they slide into each notch easily but dont fall out because they are too loose. NOTE the two small additional braces waiting to be installed next.

The two transom blocks in the slots can be moved forward or aft so you can get a good fit against the transom.  Remember that they are not glued in.  The slots for them are longer than needed so they can be adjusted to best advantage.  But once in a good position, you can add the two smaller brace blocks.  These can and should be glued onto the build board. Use a little glue and push them into position against the transom.  But DONT glue them to the transom.  Just glue them to the build board.  These will stabilize the transom even more while planking.  Also use the laser etched lines on the build board to help make sure the transom is straight and not askew.  This method differs from the one I used on the barge kit but I think its an improvement.  Time will tell. 

Then repeat the test fitting of the keel in the bow half of the build board.  Do it the same way except there are no additional stabilizing blocks. These two will do the job and keep the stem from wandering while you add the first few strakes up there.  
 

How it all looks at this stage.   You will be removing and testing the keel many times before its time to glue the keel in position for good.  Now to do the two piece frames.  I also want to point out to those interested....look at the laser char edges of the frames.  You will see how they are not dark and black.  Yellow Cedar is very forgiving thanks to the oil present.   It doesnt effect the gluing either and I am using Titebond II for all my joints.  The build board is just basswood and you can see how dark that gets when laser cutting.   I find it very enjoyable to work in Cedar and removing the char is much easier in my opinion....as Cherry and Basswood burn like crazy.
 

Really nice progress in the last few month. Very well done, Mike

For me it's an really interesting subject and I think it is an really nice idea to put my hand on both versions.

Really nice progress in the last few month. Very well done, Mike

Hello and thank you all for your likes,
 
today I finished the planking of the gun deck and I made also the spirketting. I think that I need the next week for relaxing my fingertips and let here and there some new skin growing  These riding pices are very hard and stable.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I build the deck without the margin plank, you would't see it later. The waterway I will install in the slit between the deck and the spirketting. 
 

 

 
 

For me it's an really interesting subject and I think it is an really nice idea to put my hand on both versions.

Really nice progress in the last few month. Very well done, Mike

Have you an laser cutter at home? The result is looking really nice

For me it's an really interesting subject and I think it is an really nice idea to put my hand on both versions.

Have you an laser cutter at home? The result is looking really nice

Really nice progress in the last few month. Very well done, Mike

With the upper deck clamps completed I was able to install the keelson. Lengths of pine were pushed down by strips that I passed athwartships through the spaces between the frames, thus holding the keelson down tight to the floor timbers while the glue sets. With the keelson in place bolts were inserted and peened down tight into the floors timbers.


Mike

Happy New Year to all!
 
I finally reach a milestone over the holidays, though I still need to do some additional fairing on the inner hull. Once that's completed, I will move onto to installing the deck clamps. They will help to stabilize the hull in preparation for the exterior hull fairing. 


Mike

Well, I have finally completed the first of the the 21 square body frames. A temporary cross-spall was placed (tack glued) across the frame pair at the height of the top timber. It is cut to the width necessary to set the frame vertical. I used the cross-spall to level the frame across the ship by measuring at both ends vertical from the build board. A rubber band is all that was needed to hold everything in place after gluing.


Mike

The bollard timbers and hawse pieces are now completed. I left room for final fairing later on after all the frames are in. I didn't notice it earlier, but it appears that the upper limit of the air spaces should be shaped to a point and not square. Guess I will need to come up with a solution to achieve that and not do damage to any of the work already done.

Mike

Thanks for the kind words, ken and for the "Likes"!
 
I now have four of the seven aft cants completed, though I'm still developing my preferred method of making them. Before moving onto the remaining three, I need to do a rough fairing inside the hull. There is a lot of wood to remove, especially on the two aft most cants. The outside of the hull will not be sanded or faired until all the framing is completed. Gonna be a while.
 


Mike