AnobiumPunctatum
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Tim Murphy in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge by Chuck - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
I think a combination of both timbers must look great. Frames in pear or cherry and the planking in cedar
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to davec in Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
Wales added. I put up two pictures, one with flash, one without. The one with flash makes it easier to see the anchor stock shape, and the one without gives a better sense of what it looks like under natural light. The wood is ebony and treenails are cherry. It has been sanded and has a single coat of minwax wipe-on poly. I'm OK with the contrast between the ebony and cherry. The treenails are deliberately a little undersized. Steel says 1 1/4", but they are more like 1.1". I think they end up looking bigger than they actually are, and when I go full size it looks (to me) too speckled and distracting.
I'm going to work on the planking below the wales next. I plan to use holly where the "white stuff" would be. My understanding is that it was used below the waterline, although there are a few posts scattered throughout the site saying it was OK to use below the wales. (It is hard to search on the site - searching for "white stuff" mostly brings up posts about snow). The waterline is not that far below the wale for this part of the ship. I think I will mark out the waterline, plank with box down to it, and holly below. It will probably have one split plank that it part holly and part box, but I did this on Rattlesnake and it worked OK. If whitestuff to the wale is historically accurate, it would be easier - any thoughts?
Thanks!
Dave
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in Anchor Hoy c. 1825 by Maury S - FINISHED - 1:48 - Harbor craft - POF
Really wonderful project. I've never seen a working boat like this before as a model
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Maury S in Anchor Hoy c. 1825 by Maury S - FINISHED - 1:48 - Harbor craft - POF
Starting on the hatch carlings. There are three hatches. The main hatch shown below, right above the dividing walls for the water tank,
A forward hatch near the great cat (below)
and an aft hatch between the last two beams (not shown). They are cut-in and glued. The next are probably at the capstans, then the outboard sets that run most of the length. Once all are in, I'll sand them flush with the beams. By the way, I'm selling my Proxxon Lathe. It's posted in the Traders (for sale) section.
Maury
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Anguirel in Triton cross section by Anguirel -1:48
Hi
This was waiting for me when I arrived home yesterday, finally I will be able o keep things squared.
As for the black paper on the frames, the double frames they are sturdy enough ( if the one I built can be used as an example) the simple ones might be a ploblem. I used the paper because I read somewhere that they used tar or pitch on the frame joints, but now I can't find it, will have to go through the books again...
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from EJ_L in How much are you willing to pay
I am a little bit surprised. 1000$ for the Amati Pegasus. In Europe the kit costs around 400,- € which are aroud the same in $. Perhaps it is possible to order the kit by a European seller? I don't know what tax you have to pay later.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from JWD in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Really nice progress, Nils
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in How much are you willing to pay
I am a little bit surprised. 1000$ for the Amati Pegasus. In Europe the kit costs around 400,- € which are aroud the same in $. Perhaps it is possible to order the kit by a European seller? I don't know what tax you have to pay later.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in How much are you willing to pay
I am a little bit surprised. 1000$ for the Amati Pegasus. In Europe the kit costs around 400,- € which are aroud the same in $. Perhaps it is possible to order the kit by a European seller? I don't know what tax you have to pay later.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from AntonyUK in Korean Turtle Ship by AntonyUK - FINISHED - Scale 1/32
Really interesting project. I've never seen this ship type before. Very well done, Anthony
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Korean Turtle Ship by AntonyUK - FINISHED - Scale 1/32
Really interesting project. I've never seen this ship type before. Very well done, Anthony
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from EJ_L in Korean Turtle Ship by AntonyUK - FINISHED - Scale 1/32
Really interesting project. I've never seen this ship type before. Very well done, Anthony
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Maury S in Anchor Hoy c. 1825 by Maury S - FINISHED - 1:48 - Harbor craft - POF
Recovering from a cold over the previous week, and I try not to work on the model if I'm not well. Coughing in the midst of a delicate exercise with a chisel could be dangerous. All of the knees have been installed and minor sanding to fair the deck beams is completed. I have some more work to do at the bow but all is proceeding well.
Maury
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in Triton cross section by Anguirel -1:48
Anguriel,
the thickness of the regular frames is not that important in 1/48 (1'' is 0.5mm in that scale). If you take the medium thickness and make all frames the same it's absolut ok. I think the typical position of the single and double frames and the special frames at midship are typical for an English ship and special for your choosen pattern.
But if you like the fun to build it more close to the original ship, do it the more complicated way.
I wouldn't you black paper for the frames. The joint is not stable enough. There exist a one layer pulp, which you will find in a hobby store. If you use this the joint is much better.
Black paper should show the caulking. As far as I know there is now caulking between the tmibers of a frame. If you want to higlight the joints, it is better to use brown color which is a little darker than the used timber, Have a look on page 4 in my build log.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to garyb in Swan-Class Sloop by garyb - 1:48
First things first I would like to wish everybody a happy new year.
Things have been a bit slow over the holiday period in fact nothing has been done for to long.
When I last posted the frame patterns had been printed and timber sorted to which thickness was needed for what part.
Now came the first problem off how to get the shapes for the stem and deadwood. The maylar plan could not be damaged as I would need it for a long time. first attack was to try to scan them but there was to much distortion. So I came with this method first drawing a grid on paper and placing it under the plan then I had a ref to draw the shape on the computer which made changes easy. Then it was just a case off placing under the plan to check the shapes.
Yours Gary
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to garyb in Swan-Class Sloop by garyb - 1:48
Hi all
Today a box arived. Whats in the box ? I here you ask, well its not a secret its a swan timber package from Crown timberyard and miighty fine it looks. First job is to work out is which plank is for each part.
Yours Gary
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Piet in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
It does. Your clipper will be a possible project in the future if my sloop is finished. I like the lines of the hull and also the interesting rigging of this ship type. How long will be the fully rigged model in 1/72?
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Le François 1683 by jose_b - Scale 1:48
Found your log this morning. Very nice build.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Gabek in Triton cross section by Anguirel -1:48
Anguriel,
the thickness of the regular frames is not that important in 1/48 (1'' is 0.5mm in that scale). If you take the medium thickness and make all frames the same it's absolut ok. I think the typical position of the single and double frames and the special frames at midship are typical for an English ship and special for your choosen pattern.
But if you like the fun to build it more close to the original ship, do it the more complicated way.
I wouldn't you black paper for the frames. The joint is not stable enough. There exist a one layer pulp, which you will find in a hobby store. If you use this the joint is much better.
Black paper should show the caulking. As far as I know there is now caulking between the tmibers of a frame. If you want to higlight the joints, it is better to use brown color which is a little darker than the used timber, Have a look on page 4 in my build log.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Triton cross section by Anguirel -1:48
Anguriel,
the thickness of the regular frames is not that important in 1/48 (1'' is 0.5mm in that scale). If you take the medium thickness and make all frames the same it's absolut ok. I think the typical position of the single and double frames and the special frames at midship are typical for an English ship and special for your choosen pattern.
But if you like the fun to build it more close to the original ship, do it the more complicated way.
I wouldn't you black paper for the frames. The joint is not stable enough. There exist a one layer pulp, which you will find in a hobby store. If you use this the joint is much better.
Black paper should show the caulking. As far as I know there is now caulking between the tmibers of a frame. If you want to higlight the joints, it is better to use brown color which is a little darker than the used timber, Have a look on page 4 in my build log.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Canute in Triton cross section by Anguirel -1:48
Anguriel,
the thickness of the regular frames is not that important in 1/48 (1'' is 0.5mm in that scale). If you take the medium thickness and make all frames the same it's absolut ok. I think the typical position of the single and double frames and the special frames at midship are typical for an English ship and special for your choosen pattern.
But if you like the fun to build it more close to the original ship, do it the more complicated way.
I wouldn't you black paper for the frames. The joint is not stable enough. There exist a one layer pulp, which you will find in a hobby store. If you use this the joint is much better.
Black paper should show the caulking. As far as I know there is now caulking between the tmibers of a frame. If you want to higlight the joints, it is better to use brown color which is a little darker than the used timber, Have a look on page 4 in my build log.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to jose_b in Le François 1683 by jose_b - Scale 1:48
A small detail: square-head nails (at the moment, on the first wale).
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to jose_b in Le François 1683 by jose_b - Scale 1:48
First, second ant third wales installed and gunports of the first deck too. I've applied a first layer of shellac under the first wale, as a test (it's not definitive; more sanding and polished treatment is needed).
Cheers.
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