AnobiumPunctatum

I don't want to hit the Like Button, because It  made me very sad what I see. There was a huge amount of work in your frameing and it must be a pain for you to make this cut.
 
I hope and cross all my fingers that you can restore your work.

Fixing my mistakes
 
I’m really glad I didn’t start all over again after finding I had over sanded the frames 5. It gave me an opportunity to learn how to fix them. I just layered them with 0.5mm veneer that I had left over from my Sherbourne build and sanded to the widths of frames 4. A lovely little exercise, albeit not perfectly done!
 

 

 

 
Waterways
 
Back to the next steps, or rather planks. I puzzled a bit as to how to cut the waterways, but eventually decided to use my saw as it can be angled. The following diagram shows how I set about making the cuts (actually there was a slight variation in the final angles, but the diagram shows the principles I used):
 

 

 
Lower deck planking
 
I’m leaving just under half of the lower deck un-planked as is common practice. The planks that are partially over the other half are to allow for the stairs and possible pillars (I was undecided at the time of planking as to whether to add pillars to the side of the stairs, but after a recent discussion on the forum I reckon I’ll leave them out as there was no clear decision as to whether they should be there or not, or whether they were movable).
 
One thing mentioned by David Antscherl but not shown on the plans is the larger central plank that supports the gun deck pillars. So I decided to add that.
 
I scribed lines along halfway marks of the beams to place the butt ends of the planks.
 

 

 
Preparing the gun deck beams
 
As before I used the sliding device to measure the width for the beams at each beam station and bent them across a drill bit. This time the central bit was 3.5mm and I added a 2mm bit on either side to provide a more accurate curvature. (The lower deck beams tended to be straight on either side of the central curve after I had used only one drill bit).
 
Again I used the old hair dryer at full blast for two sessions of 10 minutes and then left the clamped beams overnight in the airing cupboard.
 

 
I then bevelled the edges at 10 degrees to fit the angle of the sides, and cut a scrap piece of plywood to the exact height needed in order to test fit the beams.
 

 
Next up is the preparation of the hanging knees and the lodging knees for the gun deck.
 
Tony

Nice progress, Toni

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs. 

So all forward frames have been removed back to L aft, this is where I shall start building from as it's where the rising woods meet.

I don't want to hit the Like Button, because It  made me very sad what I see. There was a huge amount of work in your frameing and it must be a pain for you to make this cut.
 
I hope and cross all my fingers that you can restore your work.

Toni, I am looking forward to rigging her. The only other ship I've rigged is Hannah. As a ketch rigged sloop, she's a relatively simple model to rig. I'm attaching a photo of the Speedwell model David and I have based our model on.  I find her to be a simple, yet elegant ship. Photo courtesy of the National Maritime Museum.
 

 
 

I don't want to hit the Like Button, because It  made me very sad what I see. There was a huge amount of work in your frameing and it must be a pain for you to make this cut.
 
I hope and cross all my fingers that you can restore your work.

Hi All,
 
Its been a crazy month with lots of honey do's...  But I thought I would send a few pictures so as to keep the thread alive.  That being said, I am 490 hours into the journey.  I have continued work on my build board/workbench by adding 4' LED lighting above the build board.  I am very happy with the results and cannot believe I went this long without good light.  You will also note to fluorescent task lights with magnifiers.  In addition, I hang my Dremel from the uprights that support the lamp.  I will get working on the shelving over the weekend, provided the Admiral doesn't have me finish grouting the side patio... 
Best, G

Hi All,
 
Well, its been a little while since I posted, but that doesn't mean I haven't been busy. I had a great time at the NRG conference in San Diego last weekend and met so many wonderful people there.  I was very pleased with the amount of interest fellow modelers showed in the Naiad.  There were so many impressive builds!
 
Here are a few shots of some attachments that I made for my build board, which sits atop a custom rolling cabinet (I still need to make drawers for the cabinet).  As mentioned previously, I do all my modeling while standing.  I like a high platform so I don't hunch over when doing detail work.  The attachments rest on cleats that fit over the edge of the build board and have thumb screws to tighten them.  I am able to move them around where I need them.  There is a tray with a  cork lining and mahogany sides (hey, it was scrap), I have a pana-vise mounted on a cork top, as well as several Amanti jigs for cutting and carving.  I will make a few more as time goes by.  I plan to store some inside the cabinet when not in use. My goal is to keep most of my small hand tools and other accessories easily accessible in the cabinet.
 
I am 446 hours into the build.  I did a little rework on the frames.  I didn't like how some of them faired, so I ripped them out.  I am not taking pictures of the rework, too painful. I am still loving the build, but need to remember to move slow for maximum speed.
 
Best, Gary

Hi All,
 
400 hours into the journey.  I have spent the past two-weeks doing rework on the top timbers as well as addressing some other quality issues.  Overall, I am happy with the progress, but am frustrated by the little mistakes that caused the rework.  Somewhere along the way, the scale of my drawings was converted to "fit page" as opposed to "100%".  This caused the top timbers on frames 1-6 to be too short.  Ugh.  Its only off by 3/8th of an inch, but that matters to me.
 
I want to reinforce some of the ideas on what I would do better on next time.  I have posted most of these already, and, they are worth remembering:
1. Make your top timbers at least a 1/4 taller than required.  This allows you the wiggle room, as well as a place to put your spacers and not have to worry about messing up the actual frame.
2. Make the chocks from the same wood as the frames.  I replaced five frames that had the chocks sanded through.
3. Leave plenty of meat on the frame when installing chocks - this will come back to haunt you.
4. Consider building this ship in 1:48 scale to take advantage of all the small details.
5. Install the chain plate filler pieces as you go.  They are a permanent part of the ship and can aid in stabilization of the frames.  You also will need fewer spacers.
 
I plan to replace the top timbers on the s/b side 1-6 and then add treenail and bolt details this week.  I will then do a final sanding of the outside hull and then install the ribbands.  I really wanted to get her cleaned up before I show her at NRG next month, but will not rush to do that.
 
More next Monday.  Best, G

Next step is the after deadwood.
 
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.


All components are put temporarily together

 
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:


As final step the template will be cut out:


The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site


Next step will be the port side.

Nice progress, Toni

Greg,
 
 
I don't have a CNC mill. I use a simple mill with a coordinate table.
 
I work a lot with the PC during my job and so I thought also of using a CNC for model building - there are some interesting kits in the internet. But than I thought it will be much more satisfactory to build the model by hand. It's completely different to what I do in my job and so it is a big challenge which I like.
 
I know that I will have imperfections, but this is what a model makes individual and interesting. Also the old time modelers and shipbuilders build their ships manual. So why not to do the same?

Chuck, it's always a pleasure to follow your logs.

Greg,
 
 
I don't have a CNC mill. I use a simple mill with a coordinate table.
 
I work a lot with the PC during my job and so I thought also of using a CNC for model building - there are some interesting kits in the internet. But than I thought it will be much more satisfactory to build the model by hand. It's completely different to what I do in my job and so it is a big challenge which I like.
 
I know that I will have imperfections, but this is what a model makes individual and interesting. Also the old time modelers and shipbuilders build their ships manual. So why not to do the same?

Thanks very much for the likes and comments.
You are right, Greg. I have to sand this later down. I don't find a way to do this with my small mill and chisels.
There's much more to sand down. 
 
I'am not sure what is more complicated, the stem ore the stern deadwood. I think the stern, because there are a lot of different steps to do and you have to think about every step, before you start. I made me a small list of all single steps and hope I've nothing forgotten.

Next step is the after deadwood.
 
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.


All components are put temporarily together

 
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:


As final step the template will be cut out:


The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site


Next step will be the port side.

Nice progress, Toni

Looks really great, Tony

Greg,
 
 
I don't have a CNC mill. I use a simple mill with a coordinate table.
 
I work a lot with the PC during my job and so I thought also of using a CNC for model building - there are some interesting kits in the internet. But than I thought it will be much more satisfactory to build the model by hand. It's completely different to what I do in my job and so it is a big challenge which I like.
 
I know that I will have imperfections, but this is what a model makes individual and interesting. Also the old time modelers and shipbuilders build their ships manual. So why not to do the same?

Next step is the after deadwood.
 
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.


All components are put temporarily together

 
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:


As final step the template will be cut out:


The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site


Next step will be the port side.

Greg,
 
 
I don't have a CNC mill. I use a simple mill with a coordinate table.
 
I work a lot with the PC during my job and so I thought also of using a CNC for model building - there are some interesting kits in the internet. But than I thought it will be much more satisfactory to build the model by hand. It's completely different to what I do in my job and so it is a big challenge which I like.
 
I know that I will have imperfections, but this is what a model makes individual and interesting. Also the old time modelers and shipbuilders build their ships manual. So why not to do the same?

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

Those photos give a good impression of how compact (read cramped) things were aboard a 14-gun sixth rate. Nice progress, Toni!