AnobiumPunctatum

You talked about the model in the German forum and I am happy to see some pics of your fantastic build.

Just a little bit of work today to start chapter 4.
 
I actually did forget to add something for chapter 3 so I just made it the first thing in this new chapter.  That was the anchor lining.  Its pretty straight forward.  Each strake of the anchor lining is laser cut although it may not line up perfectly with everyone's planking on individual models.  You guys may make some planks narrower or taper them less up there.  But its better to have them I suppose and if folks have to they can easily make them from scratch.
 

Then starts the stern details...
 
First up was to scratch some molding for the lowest one just above the square tuck.   You guys have done this before.   1/8" x 1/32" strip of boxwood scraped.
 
Then the frieze was cut out and glued on.   The darker one of course to match the friezes on the side of the hull.
 

Then the upper molding above the frieze was added.  It was done in two layer.  The first is laser cut for you on a curve to match the curve of the transom.  There are registration marks to help center it etched onto the FORWARD side of the molding.  This is the side that gets glued to the transom.   The AFT side of this strip need to be sanded with an angle along its entire length.   This helps establish the correct angles of the second layer which we will add later.  The laser cut piece on the bottom is a non sanded example just to show the laser etched lines that help you center it.   The ends will hang over on both sides of the hull quite a bit.  That is by design.   But you can see the other example on top which has been sanded along its entire length on an angle,  basically making it triangular in profile or wedge shaped.   This can be glued on the model once completed.
 

 
Thats when you can scrape another length of 1/8" x 1/16" boxwood strip which can be glued on top of it.   Its just a cheat to help establish the correct angles of this complex piece of molding.
 
Then the sides are completed and trimmed which is a boring long process I wont bother posting here...bit in the end you get this below.   You can see how it extends beyond the side to create a little platform.  This is for the standing figure.   
 

 
Its not time to glue these figures on permanently yet....but I did want to do a test to check its size and fit and placement.  I removed them right after.  Note how the figures follow the angle of the transom when viewed from the side of the hull.  The figure was designed to look like it was stepping forward and leaning.  This is important for  the look of the model.   They face almost outward from the side so the front of the torso almost faces port and starboard.   Although there is a slight turn aft as well.   One foot also slightly hangs over the molding which is correct but maybe not this much once I actually glue them on permanently.
 




 
Thats it for now but a little painting is next up so I can continue work on the stern.  There are the typical columns and such as well as the carvings above the windows.
 
Chuck
 
 

Yes, I also own a copy. I've been working from that for the framing plan. It pretty much lays neatly over the Bristol side profile plan, although the caprail height towards the stern is considerably different (raised higher in Bristol), and the transom posts are at a slightly different height, even though the quartergalleries are at the same height... Considering the complexity of these drawings, they really are magnificent achievements in themselves.
 
Thank you for the prompt, though. I also received this in the post today, which I'm expecting to be very helpful... It was £4.50 on AbeBooks, and only £2.50 postage, so an absolute no-brainer!

Much happy reading is in store!
 
Rob

I own a copy of the plan. It has the numer ZAZ1719

Thanks...I am really happy with the frieze thus far in the project.  Just a quick update that I have finished the port side molding and friezes which is nice.   That completes chapter 3.   Next up I will start work on the outboard stern details and carvings.  That will fill up chapter 4 so I can start work on the interior in chapter 5.
 
Have a great week guys!!!
 

Chuck,
 
very intresting build log. I will follow with great interest.

Cant frames (aft)
Framing continues with the install of aft cant #24. This is basically a repeat of what was done with the fore cants. Just less work overall. Anyway, here you go.



Mike

Fantastic results of a very unorthodox method.
Isn't there a big risc to damage the planking during the demolitian of the internal structure.
 
It would be very interesting if you could give us more information about your method.

Ok some better pictures now that the starboard side is finished.   
When I finish the molding and friezes on the port side chapter 3 will be completed.   Chapter 4 will entail finishing the stern outboard to a certain point.  The carvings and moldings etc...along with the rudder.
 
Once that is all done I will start on the interior platforms and fittings.   That will be chapter 5.

 
Now I have decided to go in a decidedly different direction with the friezes.  I was unexpectedly inspired while down in Annapolis.   Seeing the Rogers collection always does that for me.  I was inspired by a few contemporary models for ships of the same size which actually had very dark blue or almost a black/brown field for the friezes.  Yes I still like the tradition friezes you always see on models of the period which have a lighter blue field.  But I have done that so many times it has grown tired for me.

 
So I developed yet another frieze choice with a darker field.  This was frieze on my model is actually developed from photos I took of the contemporary model in the Rogers collection...brought into photoshop and repurposed for Speedwell. Placing them both on the model...the more traditional blue and this newer inspired design, I decided to go out on a limb and take a chance on it.   So far I like it very much.
 

 
Both colors and choices will be made available when I finally release this model as kit.
 
I will try and release the first installments once I get chapter 4 completed.  I hope to anyway.  That is my plan.
 

 

Bollard timbers
More progress with the completion of the bollard timbers. I scratched these with the ongoing feeling that they might not work out for one reason or another. I did have to pull one along with the P1 filler piece, but luckily the glue hadn't set. What I found was that as meaty as these are at 9/32" that the wood would still develop a slight curl when using PVA. There was no good way to clamp pieces together. Generally I like to have some time to maneuver which the PVA allows for. In the end I went with slow cure CA.
 
The paper template seen in the photo was stiffened with card stock. I flipped it back over the cant frames when I faired the curve of the top timbers, as seen from above. I can't stress enough how important it is to use it. It really does take the guesswork out of getting each side of the hull symmetrical.
 
There is always more fairing to do though I think I'm close.

Mike

In spite of a mild case of vertigo, I managed to fair most of the port side frames. I purposely left the last 2 or 3 aft most frames partially faired. I recommend doing that in order to avoid any chance of over fairing when there are no additional frames to guide you. So, I will wait until I have some aft cant frames installed before I do any more fairing.
 
I shot these photos to give you an idea of just how much wood needs to be removed. Judging from this, I am sure that the cants will require even more work.


Mike

I will follow your log with great interest.

Have a lot of fun during the workshop. I hope you will share thr result also with us.

Once again, thanks to everyone for the positive responses. The last two photos remain to be posted. This week I participated in the Class C World Championship (NAVIGA organization) where I received a gold medal for the Le Gros Venter model. I would like to take this opportunity to thank Mr. Gerard Delacrox for his technical support during the construction. My next model will again be according to Mr. Delacroix's plans - L'Amarante.
marsalv

Have a lot of fun during the workshop. I hope you will share thr result also with us.

Welcome to ModelShipWorld from the really western part of the Ruhrgebiet.

Welcome to ModelShipWorld from the really western part of the Ruhrgebiet.

Welcome to ModelShipWorld from the really western part of the Ruhrgebiet.

Have a lot of fun during the workshop. I hope you will share thr result also with us.

Everyone is quietly and carefully micro carving!!!! Admiralty carving workshop 2023.
 
so much fun…
 

Welcome to ModelShipWorld from the really western part of the Ruhrgebiet.

Hello everybody.
I am Jörg from beautiful Herdecke, which is in the middle of Germany.
My nickname is Jölle, I am 55 years old and a firefighter by profession.
Since I have been tattooing on the side for 30 years, the name madtatt arose, which I use in all sorts of model building forums.
When I was twelve I built my first model with my father. It was a small warship. Apparently ship model building stuck with me after that.
I came to this forum via the German site modellmarine and have been reading as a guest here in the forum for quite some time.
The model building quality of many of the ships here is enormous and has fascinated me, so I would now like to become a part of it.

At the end of last year, after almost two and a half years of construction, I completed a large project, the battleship Bismarck, in 1:200 and I would like to present it to you in a short construction report in fast motion.

I look forward to a lively exchange of ideas.
 
Greets Jölle.

And now, pay attention - the ship is ready!
After some fine tuning on the rigging and the yards, Mile Bijelić has finished his second model of the Royal Caroline 1749 on 22. October 2019.
 
I will try to make some nice high-resolution photos when I visit him in Zagreb next time and will post it here.
 
Drazen

Its been a while since I worked on Speedwell.  But I managed to steal some time to get some minor progress done.
 
The next step was to permanently add the stern lights.  I glued the laser cut stern lights together as shown.  There is a little top portion that is glued on top of the larger laser cut stern lights.
In addition, there are three laser cut cedar inboard pieces shown on the top of this image.   The aft side is painted black/Gray where the stern lights are false.  Meaning they wont be windows you can see through.
 

It may be difficult to tell but the stern lights are placed in the appropriate openings from the inboard side first.
Then some laser cut acetate used to simulate the window glass is placed in the same openings from the inboard side.
Lastly the painted laser cut pieces are placed on top as the final layer with the painted gray portion facing outboard.

With these glued into position I will be able to plank the inboard side of the hull next but only the two strakes along the sheer.  
 
Instead of doing that however I decided to add the sweep port hinges and horse shoe plates to the outboard side of the hull.  This can be done whenever you like really but I figured why not do it now that I am in the mood to see the hull with some details.
 
The sweep port hinges are available as a laser cut min kit.   I have several sizes but these are the "large" hinges I have developed.  One package is enough for Speedwell.
 

Hello,
the first lower finishing is now more or les ready. 


And that is it. But some small corrections I have to make, when I look so at the pictures.